DIY Sound Group Fusion 15 Sentinel build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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DIY Sound Group Fusion 15 Sentinel build

Since I'm in the middle of my build and I didn't find a bunch of threads related, I figured I'd post about my DIY Sound Group Fusion 15 Sentinel build. I will add to this post as the build progresses. Please ask questions along the way and I'll answer to the best of my ability! Thanks for following along!
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post #2 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Parts Express items:

Binding post- Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold
Part # 091-1245

Rubber feet- Penn-Elcom F1687 Rubber Cabinet Foot 1.5" Dia. x 0.375" H
Part # 260-777

1 Gallon roller grade Duratex

2 pack 4" duratex rollers
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post #3 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress... Glad there's a Harbor freight close for all those clamps.
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post #4 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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And more progress. Denim insulation arrived and placed in the cabinet with some spray adhesive. Crossover mounted. Time for a good sanding and then the duratex.
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post #5 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 07:46 PM
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Looking good so far. Appears that the new xo board has a dedicated spot now for the padding resistor.
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post #6 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Correct. It does.
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post #7 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth243 View Post
And more progress. Denim insulation arrived and placed in the cabinet with some spray adhesive. Crossover mounted. Time for a good sanding and then the duratex.

Thanks for this ! I have been thinking about possibly getting 3 of these myself for my LCR.


Maybe a noob question .. .. but that crossover, do you not have to have wires soldered to it that would go to the drivers ? If so are these already soldered (don't see them in the picture), or you intend to do that while the crossover is already mounted ?
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post #8 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 08:50 PM - Thread Starter
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The wires connect to the crossover with screws on a positive/negative terminal. Soldering is not necessary. Easy easy!
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post #9 of 29 Old 08-30-2018, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alextr75 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by seth243 View Post
And more progress. Denim insulation arrived and placed in the cabinet with some spray adhesive. Crossover mounted. Time for a good sanding and then the duratex.

Thanks for this ! I have been thinking about possibly getting 3 of these myself for my LCR.


Maybe a noob question .. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG] .. but that crossover, do you not have to have wires soldered to it that would go to the drivers ? If so are these already soldered (don't see them in the picture), or you intend to do that while the crossover is already mounted ?
Just an FYI... This is an LCR build as well. All three are the Fusion 15s.
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post #10 of 29 Old 08-31-2018, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth243 View Post
And more progress. Denim insulation arrived and placed in the cabinet with some spray adhesive. Crossover mounted. Time for a good sanding and then the duratex.
Looking great so far. 2 noob questions:


1. Is that the dedicated spot for that XO and did you glue it in place?
2. Is Denim preferred? Or polyfill? Or does it matter?
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post #11 of 29 Old 08-31-2018, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ratm View Post
Looking great so far. 2 noob questions:


1. Is that the dedicated spot for that XO and did you glue it in place?
2. Is Denim preferred? Or polyfill? Or does it matter?
When you purchase a preassembled crossover from diysoundgroup, it comes with standoffs and screws to allow you to mount it into position, while maintaining adequate spacing on the back of the circuit board. Location of crossover is based on your convenience and physical clearance.

Denim is nice because it retains that flat batt shape and is easy to work with, if you were to use polyfill it would need to be held in place with some netting or other method.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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post #12 of 29 Old 08-31-2018, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pradeep2 View Post
When you purchase a preassembled crossover from diysoundgroup, it comes with standoffs and screws to allow you to mount it into position, while maintaining adequate spacing on the back of the circuit board. Location of crossover is based on your convenience and physical clearance.

Denim is nice because it retains that flat batt shape and is easy to work with, if you were to use polyfill it would need to be held in place with some netting or other method.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Awesome. I will look for that instead of spray tacking something in place.
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post #13 of 29 Old 09-01-2018, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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All three are constructed. One sanded and two left to go. Almost time for duratex.
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post #14 of 29 Old 09-01-2018, 02:37 PM
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Looking good! Keep us posted!
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post #15 of 29 Old 09-04-2018, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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First coat of duratex applied. One more coat should do it.
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post #16 of 29 Old 09-04-2018, 04:36 PM
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👍 looks like you may have done a little on the woofer opening, just be sure to get some black on the side of the waveguide and woofer recesses. Sometimes that can show depending on how good the fit is. I usually just hit it with a shot of black krylon before finishing. I dunno how think duratex is so you may be able to just use that or in a pinch you can use a big black sharpie
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post #17 of 29 Old 09-04-2018, 04:53 PM
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Great progress so far!
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post #18 of 29 Old 09-04-2018, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
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2. Is Denim preferred? Or polyfill? Or does it matter?

A lot of guys, myself included, choose to use a foam mattress topper from Walmart.



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post #19 of 29 Old 09-04-2018, 05:05 PM
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A lot of guys, myself included, choose to use a foam mattress topper from Walmart.



Because of the cool psychedelic look...
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post #20 of 29 Old 09-04-2018, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gixerking View Post
👍 looks like you may have done a little on the woofer opening, just be sure to get some black on the side of the waveguide and woofer recesses. Sometimes that can show depending on how good the fit is. I usually just hit it with a shot of black krylon before finishing. I dunno how think duratex is so you may be able to just use that or in a pinch you can use a big black sharpie
The black you see in the waveguide and woofer recesses is actually black sharpie! If a little Duratex gets in there, I don't think it'll interfere. If it does, it's easy to remove it.
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post #21 of 29 Old 09-05-2018, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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One done! Two more nearly complete! Woohoo! Can't wait to get them hooked up!

These are paired with a Marantz 6012 with a Sunfire Cinema Grand 200wx5 amp. Accompanied by two 18" Ultimax sealed subs powered by an Inuke 6KDSP and full Atmos.
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post #22 of 29 Old 09-06-2018, 06:52 AM
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One done! Two more nearly complete! Woohoo! Can't wait to get them hooked up!

These are paired with a Marantz 6012 with a Sunfire Cinema Grand 200wx5 amp. Accompanied by two 18" Ultimax sealed subs powered by an Inuke 6KDSP and full Atmos.
Nice! You are going to be smiling a lot this weekend.
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post #23 of 29 Old 09-06-2018, 11:16 AM
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If you don't mind me asking, how do you attach and seal the waveguide and ports to the box ? I intend to do a couple of these in the future but not sure how this is done.

For the waveguide I see screws, so maybe all that is needed is some silicone from inside or gasket tape under the screws to seal it ?

For the ports I don't see screws, how are those attached, are they just glued with something (which I guess takes care of sealing it well) ?

Last edited by alextr75; 09-06-2018 at 12:27 PM.
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post #24 of 29 Old 09-06-2018, 11:23 AM
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WG uses gasket tape the whole way around. Ports are pressure fit.
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post #25 of 29 Old 09-06-2018, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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WG uses gasket tape the whole way around. Ports are pressure fit.
This is all correct. Gasket tape and pressure fit.
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post #26 of 29 Old 09-06-2018, 12:26 PM
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My apologies for being a noob, but what exactly is a "pressure fit" ?

Do you just use some force to squeeze them in into a very tight cutout for a snug fit, or something else, maybe you need some tools etc ?

I tried to google this, but so far not much luck, lol.
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Originally Posted by alextr75 View Post
My apologies for being a noob, but what exactly is a "pressure fit" ?

Do you just use some force to squeeze them in into a very tight cutout for a snug fit, or something else, maybe you need some tools etc ?

I tried to google this, but so far not much luck, lol.
You got it, just push the ports in the cutouts. They are CNC cut to make sure they fit snug and won't fall out.

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post #28 of 29 Old 09-06-2018, 01:57 PM
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The back of the ports have little raised areas that squeeze tight into the cutout. As long as you use a flat pack this works great. If you cut your own it's a bit tricky.
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post #29 of 29 Old 09-08-2018, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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All three are done. Should get them calibrated soon. Pre calibration sounds amazing... 11' apart and slightly toed in towards the MLP.

Don't mind the theater build progress. =) Drywall is going up next weekend, painting behind the screen, and some acoustic panels.
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