Cobalt 8 Build. My first build ever... - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Cobalt 8 Build. My first build ever. PICS

Just got a text from my wife saying my "speakers arrived". As soon as I get home, I will start posting the requisite pictures. A couple of early questions:



Given the dimensions of the MTM as 10" W x 23.5" H x 11.75" D, what size clamps and how many clamps would I need for building one box at a time?


Binding posts generally do NOT come with the kits unless ordered correct?


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post #2 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 05:58 AM
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I assume you bought flat packs? Do you own a brad nailer? What length clamps will be dependent on which sides go together first. If you have the money for some harbor freight bar clamps, 4-24" and 4-18" should cover whatever you need.
Binding posts do not come with the kits. I prefer to use Speakons for all of my builds.
Good luck and have fun!
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post #3 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
I assume you bought flat packs? Do you own a brad nailer? What length clamps will be dependent on which sides go together first. If you have the money for some harbor freight bar clamps, 4-24" and 4-18" should cover whatever you need.
Binding posts do not come with the kits. I prefer to use Speakons for all of my builds.
Good luck and have fun!

Yes I bought the flat packs. I don't own a brad nailer. I was planning on glueing everything together as thats what I've seen everyone do. I am headed to HF today for those clamps so thank you! I not sure what Speakons youre referring to. I am using plugs on my speaker cables. Can you show me which one you mean?
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post #4 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post
Yes I bought the flat packs. I don't own a brad nailer. I was planning on glueing everything together as thats what I've seen everyone do. I am headed to HF today for those clamps so thank you! I not sure what Speakons youre referring to. I am using plugs on my speaker cables. Can you show me which one you mean?
If you’ve already got cables with bananas on them, you might as well stick with binding posts.
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post #5 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post
If you’ve already got cables with bananas on them, you might as well stick with binding posts.
Then there's binding posts or terminal cups. I put binding posts on my HTM12's but wish I'd done terminal cups. The binding posts stick out, which is fine, but if I ever have to move these (like to another house) it'll be an issue. Terminal cups are pretty much flush with the mounting surface so will be easy to pack and move.
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post #6 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 11:19 AM
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^^ That. I've used these with good results: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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post #7 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
^^ That. I've used these with good results: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I use these, what size hole do I need to drill? I'm thinking 2 inches?
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post #8 of 42 Old 09-06-2018, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ratm View Post
If I use these, what size hole do I need to drill? I'm thinking 2 inches?
Yep, I used a 2" hole saw and it's almost a perfect fit. Tiny amount of slop, no issues.

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post #9 of 42 Old 09-07-2018, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Yep, I used a 2" hole saw and it's almost a perfect fit. Tiny amount of slop, no issues.
Same here. 2" hole saw with just a bit of play when done. I avoided these at first (with the HTMs) because I thought I'd need to use a jigsaw or build a jig for my router to cut the hole. I *had* to use these terminal cups when I built the Volt 6's since they are wall-mounted. After I used the 2" hole saw and dropped in the terminal cup, I realized how easy it was and should have done it sooner.
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post #10 of 42 Old 09-07-2018, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmccorm View Post
Same here. 2" hole saw with just a bit of play when done. I avoided these at first (with the HTMs) because I thought I'd need to use a jigsaw or build a jig for my router to cut the hole. I *had* to use these terminal cups when I built the Volt 6's since they are wall-mounted. After I used the 2" hole saw and dropped in the terminal cup, I realized how easy it was and should have done it sooner.

Thanks guys. But I ended up going with the Dayton Binding posts for this one. Starting the build tomorrow.
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post #11 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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It has begun. I skipped the part about everything being meticulously packaged (everyone knows that). Seriously though, I spent more time sweeping styrofoam pieces taking everything out of the box than I've ever done in my life. I dry fit everything to make sure that it all fits smoothly, and like the sun rises, it does. Turns out that I ordered binding posts which was sweet. But holy crap, I am super nervous about building those crossovers, even with the directions. I don't want to mess that up, so they are getting shipped to Matt later this morning.

I already have a few questions:

1. When and where should I drill holes for my binding posts? And what size drill bit should I use?
2. Are the port tubes the last thing that I should put in? They seem to fit super snug, should I glue the flange?
3. The things I am holding in the pics labeled woofer and tweeter. They look like foam gaskets of some sort, but I dont know where they go.
4. When I am done, should I pre-drill the holes to secure the woofer and tweeter? If so, what size bit.

Thank you to anyone who helps, sorry for all of the noob questions.
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post #12 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post
I already have a few questions:

1. When and where should I drill holes for my binding posts? And what size drill bit should I use?
I drill my terminal cup holes prior to assembly. Where is entirely up to you, I tend to put them close to middle of the back. Drill bit size is dictated by the size of the post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm
2. Are the port tubes the last thing that I should put in? They seem to fit super snug, should I glue the flange?
I don't know about the Cobalt kit, but the ports that came with my HTMs were simply a press fit, no glue required. I put them in last (just make sure wherever you mount the crossover isn't going to be in their way).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm
3. The things I am holding in the pics labeled woofer and tweeter. They look like foam gaskets of some sort, but I dont know where they go.
Those are tape gaskets that go around the respective flange (woofer on woofer, tweeter on tweeter).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm
4. When I am done, should I pre-drill the holes to secure the woofer and tweeter? If so, what size bit.
I always pre-drill, although I would not consider it a requirement. Again, bit size is dictated by screw size, I typically use a 5/64 bit for # 8 pan head screws.

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post #13 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok so I glued up the box before I drilled the holes for the binding posts. I dont think it will be that big of a deal. The first pic is everything all clamped up. I got a little overzealous with the glue so I had to spend a few minutes cleaning up the excess. The second pic is looking at the back panel with the ports. I was thinking of to the right or left of that. Also, would the crossover go flat against the back panel on the right or left of the ports? Lastly, how long should I leave the clamps on? I only have whats in the pic and I would like to start on the other boxes.



Thanks!
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post #14 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 10:33 AM
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Don't get caught up in overthinking it...

Binding posts can go to left or right of ports, yes. Crossover can be mounted anywhere it won't be in the way of the drivers or ports - Back, sides, bottom, top, it doesn't matter.

Clamping time depends on the glue used, I use standard Titebond (not II or III) and 1 hour of clamp time is usually plenty. The bottle should have instructions on it.

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post #15 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Don't get caught up in overthinking it...

Binding posts can go to left or right of ports
I put my binding post wherever I needed or just wanted them! Just like "smcmillan2" said it really does not matter as long as it does not interfere with ports, crossover etc.
Lol, looks like I need some paint touch up on the HTM12.
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post #16 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome!


Should I put in polyfill and the XO before I glue down my top baffle? Or will should I do that AFTER I completely assemble the box and paint it?
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post #17 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 11:03 AM
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BTW I am really looking forward to your thoughts of the Cobalt's sound (ability to play either loud or soft and maintain dialogue intelligibility, max volume level before harshness creeps in etc) as I am considering them for my next project.

Samsung 82 inch TV, DIYSG HTM12's, Fusion Center, HTM6"s , PSA XS30 X 2, Emotiva XMC-1( soon to be XMC-2), Panasonic DMP-UB200, Roku Ultra, Emotiva XPA5.
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post #18 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sealmaniac View Post
BTW I am really looking forward to your thoughts of the Cobalt's sound (ability to play either loud or soft and maintain dialogue intelligibility, max volume level before harshness creeps in etc) as I am considering them for my next project.

Absolutely. I will post up plenty of impressions once I get them built and set up.
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post #19 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 11:42 AM
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Awesome!


Should I put in polyfill and the XO before I glue down my top baffle? Or will should I do that AFTER I completely assemble the box and paint it?
Well it depends on if you have enough room to access the space the crossover will sit and stuff the polyfill in. I did everything after glueing and painting with the HTM12's due to the huge waveguide and woofer openings.
With the HTM6's and Alchemy center I placed everything in the cabinet before gluing the top baffle as it was pretty tight quarters.

As to which I would suggest? Well if I did it all over again I would install everything BEFORE gluing the front baffle on since access is wide open.

Samsung 82 inch TV, DIYSG HTM12's, Fusion Center, HTM6"s , PSA XS30 X 2, Emotiva XMC-1( soon to be XMC-2), Panasonic DMP-UB200, Roku Ultra, Emotiva XPA5.
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post #20 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealmaniac View Post
Well it depends on if you have enough room to access the space the crossover will sit and stuff the polyfill in. I did everything after glueing and painting with the HTM12's due to the huge waveguide and woofer openings.
With the HTM6's and Alchemy center I placed everything in the cabinet before gluing the top baffle as it was pretty tight quarters.

As to which I would suggest? Well if I did it all over again I would install everything BEFORE gluing the front baffle on since access is wide open.

I already mailed the XO to Matt to build, so I cant see if it will "fit" through the woofer. With an 8 inch opening, I would like to think that I have enough room to place the XO. I was planning on using hot glue to secure it to the back of the speaker, unless thats frowned upon.
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post #21 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 12:10 PM
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Clamping time depends on the glue used, I use standard Titebond (not II or III) and 1 hour of clamp time is usually plenty.

Why original and not II or III?

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post #22 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Why original and not II or III?

I'm using Titebond 2 and letting the clamps stay on one hour. FWIW
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post #23 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 01:44 PM
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Put it on after, you don't want to get your crossover dusty etc from the finishing process. I do the entire cabinet first then install everything.
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post #24 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Put it on after, you don't want to get your crossover dusty etc from the finishing process. I do the entire cabinet first then install everything.

Thanks! Thats the plan.
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post #25 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 04:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Cabinets are built. If I had triple the clamps, I could have had it all done in an hour. The flat packs are that easy. Sanding and filling will start tomorrow. 150 grit > filler > 150 grit again > filler > 220 grit filler.


Stlll trying to decide if I want to go Duratex or try for a different kind of black paint.
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post #26 of 42 Old 09-08-2018, 05:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Clamps all done. 42 pound bags of cat litter on overnight. If it’s not sealed after this, I quit. Had a blast building the cabinets.
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post #27 of 42 Old 09-09-2018, 04:10 AM
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How often do you have to change the cat litter?

Ok, bad joke.

What do you fill with? On my HTM12's, I used a flush trim bit to get the overhang and then sanded so much that I didn't really need much filler to speak of. Just a couple of dabs of spackle here and there. Then I used "Filler Primer" that did well at filling the really minor imperfections. If there's a way to reduce the amount of sanding (ie. filler), I'm curious about it).
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post #28 of 42 Old 09-09-2018, 04:44 AM - Thread Starter
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How often do you have to change the cat litter?

Ok, bad joke.

What do you fill with? On my HTM12's, I used a flush trim bit to get the overhang and then sanded so much that I didn't really need much filler to speak of. Just a couple of dabs of spackle here and there. Then I used "Filler Primer" that did well at filling the really minor imperfections. If there's a way to reduce the amount of sanding (ie. filler), I'm curious about it).

Ugh. 2 pits and 5 cats. My wife loves the Chewy website and has things delivered "just because". I bought DAP's Plastic Wood. This is my first time buiding anything like this so I am not expecting finish carpentry. But I am sure it will turn out ok.
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post #29 of 42 Old 09-09-2018, 05:42 AM
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Ugh. 2 pits and 5 cats. My wife loves the Chewy website and has things delivered "just because". I bought DAP's Plastic Wood. This is my first time buiding anything like this so I am not expecting finish carpentry. But I am sure it will turn out ok.
Consider using a flush trim bit with a router. The front baffle *should* overhang slightly on all sides (if it's like the DIYSG kits I'm familiar with). You can use the trim bit to shave the baffle flush with the sides, top, and bottom. Saves a lot of sanding. Other than that, I hope you have a palm sander
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post #30 of 42 Old 09-09-2018, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmccorm View Post
Consider using a flush trim bit with a router. The front baffle *should* overhang slightly on all sides (if it's like the DIYSG kits I'm familiar with). You can use the trim bit to shave the baffle flush with the sides, top, and bottom. Saves a lot of sanding. Other than that, I hope you have a palm sander

Thankfully I did. So here are the cabinets all done. I def have a new found respect for anyone who is good at woodworking. Im hoping and thinking that Duratex will hide some if not most of the imperfections in my sanding.
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