(Wait, didn't he say he bought 3 of the Volt-6s??
Yes, yes I did...
To be continued...
OK, so about that 3rd Volt-6...
Our "HT room" is actually our living room, so I don't have carte blanche over it and deal with space constraints/location problems. I replaced a pair of RBH/EMP R5Bis with the HTM-10s (in my sig) but needed a horizontal center that would keep up with the HTMs, in a specific size height and depth-wise. So I planned out such a center with the 3rd Volt-6, keeping internal volume similar to the original design. The overall dimensions ended up being 16"W x 7"H x 6.75"D (a bit more volume than the original because I would add bracing).
So, once again I sacrifice a perfectly good DIYSG front baffle to use as a template. Inner cutout first, just laid it onto my to-be baffle with plenty of area to cut to size.
Hole cut, nice and smooth. Then for the recess I remove the same from the original baffle
And we end up with a recessed hole in a big piece of MDF.
After lots of math, which is hard
, especially with fractions
, we cut down the big piece of MDF to the final baffle size with the hole in the center.
The driver fits great!
All the parts are now ready for assembly, except for one thing. For symmetry I wanted to put the port on the back. You know, since there's only 1 driver...
. Used the sacrificial baffle to route that out.
Got it all assembled.
Hooked it up to see how it sounded. Annnnd.....
Meh. No bass like the original design. Double-check connections and setup, no issue there. Spoiler alert...
Lesson learned! Don't modify the original design that much!
I put my ear to the back of the speaker and viola! There's the bass! Shoot, it's already assembled...
We can fix this. We have tools. And beer.
Cut a piece to fill the original mistake, work it on the grinder to fit
Glued in and a little sanding, we can work with this
So back to the sacrificial baffle, attached to the front
this time. Had to over-extend the top bearing pattern bit, this was a little scary. For those with little router experience I would not recommend trying this.
Just barely made it through, but it's through. Now we have a huge mess in the cabinet, but a few minutes with the compressor takes care of that (whew!)
A bit of caulk around the plug on the inside back
Assembled and in place, but not finished
Same veneer as the surrounds
Wanted a small roundover on the front edge, but because of the limited area between the driver and top/bottom of the cab I had to stop it short (bearing would have fallen into the driver hole - NOT good!)
Went with Duratex on the front as it's the center channel and I wanted it to "disappear" into the TV base. Hadn't tried this method before and was concerned the Duratex wouldn't stick to oil-based stain or poly, that's why the front 3/4" was masked off.
Wait for it...
Lesson learned! On my 1260 builds I had used a 9" - 3/8" nap roller cover to apply the Duratex, and it worked out great. Given the area I was covering on this build I chose (unwisely) a 3" - 3/8" nap roller that basically unraveled as I was using it, leaving all sorts of clumps and threads in the paint. I may end up trying to sand the face down and re-applying the Duratex, but this is really a temporary setup and the horrid aesthetics aren't noticeable from our viewing distance. Other than that, I think it turned out well.
So, the important question - How does it sound? Quite honestly, it's terrific. This may just be because we came from the RBH R5Ci, but the dialogue in movies is very much improved. No more "What did he say?", voices sound natural, dynamics are good. Bass is a bit lacking of course, but the HTMs cover that well. Granted, this is basically a temporary center until I can change things around and put together the Fusion-8 center to replace it, but it's a keeper and will go into the family room when that time comes.
Well, that was fun, hope you received some enjoyment out of it too.
(Not sure how the forum decides the order of the thumbnails, odd)