Warrior's Subwoofer Build - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 107 Old 11-16-2018, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
One now, two possible in the future. So how many ohm driver should I look for?

If you are using the NX6000D and one driver, a 4 ohm driver is what you need. One channel will be unused until you build a second.

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post #32 of 107 Old 11-22-2018, 10:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Now that black Friday is coming, I'm considering purchasing the nx6000d amp and the fi audio sp4 2 driver. Its available in 1 ohm and 2ohm. Will it work, should I be looking for something with a different ohm? What's the difference between stitched and hybrid leads?

The NX6000D is two bridged 3000 modules in one chassis. It can drive 4 ohm loads only per channel, and is not bridgeable. ( cannot bridge a bridge )



Two of the 2 ohm drivers can be used in series to obtain a load that the Behringer can drive, but that would only be one channel. How many drivers are you planning?
I misspoke, the option is dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm. Would either still work for the nx6000d with one speaker initially and two later?

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post #33 of 107 Old 11-23-2018, 01:18 AM
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Get the dual 2. You series the coils for a 4 ohm load. Run one per channel of the amp.
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post #34 of 107 Old 11-23-2018, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post
Get the dual 2. You series the coils for a 4 ohm load. Run one per channel of the amp.
Thank you

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post #35 of 107 Old 11-23-2018, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Nx amplifiers 15% off at guitar center with coupon

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post #36 of 107 Old 12-08-2018, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Getting the parts in. Got my nx6000d and ordered my hst-18. I'm thinking of placing it right behind our couch, so the box design will mimic the space when couch reclines and sitting position. What do you guys think of the design. Port out each long side, driver out the top beveled center.
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post #37 of 107 Old 12-14-2018, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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What's next now that I got the driver and the amp. Do I use the winisd first or do the box design? Thanks

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post #38 of 107 Old 12-14-2018, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
What's next now that I got the driver and the amp. Do I use the winisd first or do the box design? Thanks
Oh come on where are the pictures. As they say pictures or it didn't happen. Glad you got your stuff.
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post #39 of 107 Old 12-14-2018, 09:13 AM
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Talking

*Ignore post.... looks like you already posted you bought your items

I had a lot of questions too over the last few months while building a new room and settled on 2 UM-18's which are going in some GSG Mini Marty kits next week. Now I have plenty of room and its a dedicated TH/Gaming room so WAF is not an issue. That noted... if / when I want an all around sub that will meet 95% of everything I would go with this....HANDS DOWN.

https://www.css-audio.com/online-sto...Kit-p112666755

I know most will say 18" subs or bigger now and given its a 12" some we cringe or faint =) YES I did go with 18's but my current/new room is 95% Movies and 5% gaming. No music.

I had the chance a few months back to hear the CSS kit locally and was shocked how well it sounded across all material. Everything tossed at it sounded excellent. Don't be fooled that is is a 12" subwoofer the extension is there. Granted if you do the WOW / EOT movie scenes everyone used for reference on AVS its not going to match an 18's but it is no slouch by any means. I am positive it would meet 98% of peoples needs real world, but this is AVS... not the real world LOL

Pair it with a NX Dsp amp and I am sure you would be all smiles.

That said... if the WAF is fine with two 25"x 24"x 40" sub boxes with 2000 watts each that will make your house feel like it is coming apart.... YEA do the 18's =)
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post #40 of 107 Old 12-14-2018, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_J View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
What's next now that I got the driver and the amp. Do I use the winisd first or do the box design? Thanks
Oh come on where are the pictures. As they say pictures or it didn't happen. Glad you got your stuff.
Sorry, I meant I purchased both, amp in hand, driver hasn't shipped yet. But I've never done this and want to start preparing the next steps of this process in time for the driver.

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post #41 of 107 Old 12-14-2018, 10:34 PM
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Ah i see.yes it can take a bit to get you driver's from Nick but they are worth the wait. Wish i could help but don't have a good way to run sims right now. But interested to see what you come up with.
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post #42 of 107 Old 12-16-2018, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
What's next now that I got the driver and the amp. Do I use the winisd first or do the box design? Thanks
WinISD gives you your box design.

If bad sound were Faital, good sound would be almost impossible
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post #43 of 107 Old 12-22-2018, 09:46 PM - Thread Starter
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WinISD gives you your box design.
Downloaded and installed. Is there a place that has the HST-18 MKIII driver file for winisd?

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post #44 of 107 Old 12-22-2018, 10:14 PM
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The parameters should all be on the si website
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post #45 of 107 Old 12-24-2018, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Downloaded and installed. Is there a place that has the HST-18 MKIII driver file for winisd?
No, you have to get the TS params from their web site. This is what was given to me when I first started using it. I cut and pasted into a text file and reference quite often.

make sure all fields are clear, then enter qes then hit tab, enter qms
hit tab a couple times and let it calculate qts
hit tab a few times to move to mms
enter mms, re, bl, le, sd, xmax, and pe
by using tab after entering each data, it will calculate what it needs to
i no longer get any conflicts
sometimes the specs calculated don't match exactly the manufacturer specs, but its only rounding type errors, so it is not material
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post #46 of 107 Old 04-02-2019, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Driver arrives thursday from Stereo Integrity. I saw in another thread that a user made a similar behind the couch design so I will probably continue with what I have attached earlier. What binding posts should I get and where do i get them? Parts express? Just one red and one black?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Driver arrives thursday from Stereo Integrity. I saw in another thread that a user made a similar behind the couch design so I will probably continue with what I have attached earlier. What binding posts should I get and where do i get them? Parts express? Just one red and one black?

Personally I'd run Speakon to Speakon. You can buy from Parts Express or Amazon has them too.
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post #48 of 107 Old 04-05-2019, 07:12 PM
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SpeakOn. 15/16" hole on the box.
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post #49 of 107 Old 04-05-2019, 07:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I did the WinISD last night using youtube. Does the inputs look correct? Am I doing it right?
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post #50 of 107 Old 04-05-2019, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewp29 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Driver arrives thursday from Stereo Integrity. I saw in another thread that a user made a similar behind the couch design so I will probably continue with what I have attached earlier. What binding posts should I get and where do i get them? Parts express? Just one red and one black?

Personally I'd run Speakon to Speakon. You can buy from Parts Express or Amazon has them too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
SpeakOn. 15/16" hole on the box.
I've soldered xlr neutrik before so shouldn't be an issue.

I'm using the nx6000d, do I get the 2p or 4p neutrik connector? I believe the hst-18 is a dual 2 ohm sub.

What and where to find the bulk wire?

Finally any benefit to using the neutrik connector that is dual speakon and 1/4" plug? https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nlj2md-h

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post #51 of 107 Old 04-06-2019, 06:28 AM
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I've soldered xlr neutrik before so shouldn't be an issue.
XLR is the input. Neutrik the output. Not sure what you're saying here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97
I'm using the nx6000d, do I get the 2p or 4p neutrik connector? I believe the hst-18 is a dual 2 ohm sub.
Go with 4 pole all around. Best flexibility down the road. I've used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F8M8W00..._t2_B00YQJYEJO without issue, also available from GLS. These for the wire ends https://www.amazon.com/Seismic-Audio...SX725VE4DXXQ1M

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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97
What and where to find the bulk wire?
I use https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102.../dp/B001UNGJF6. Their CL2 rated stuff for in-wall installation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97
Finally any benefit to using the neutrik connector that is dual speakon and 1/4" plug? https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nlj2md-h
Not that I can think of.

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post #52 of 107 Old 04-06-2019, 06:52 AM
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XLR is the input. Neutrik the output. Not sure what you're saying here.
FWIW, Neutrik is a connector brand. They do make XLR connectors. https://www.neutrik.com/en/products/audio/xlr
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post #53 of 107 Old 04-06-2019, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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How to I get the air velocity rear port below 17?


I am doing a behind the couch design with the ports coming out the ends.


does the rest of the inputs and graphs look correct? is the Tuning frequency correct?


The Vent length is total vents combined need to equal that length, or each vent needs to be that long?
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post #54 of 107 Old 04-06-2019, 01:07 PM
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How to I get the air velocity rear port below 17?

go with a larger port.




The Vent length is total vents combined need to equal that length, or each vent needs to be that long?
each vent needs to be that long.
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post #55 of 107 Old 04-07-2019, 01:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Would someone mind looking at the graph of Rear Port Air Velocity. I used the flare it calculator. Is it saying that if I flare both port ends 1-3/4", it will fix the chuffing below 20hz?

Second question, If I do a behind the couch box, with the ports coming out the side, would I still be looking at the rear port air velocity chart or the front?

Thanks!
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post #56 of 107 Old 04-16-2019, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Side post found here.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post57911932

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Finishing up the design. any place I need to add bracing? Vent bracing? Or any brace I need to remove. Please let me know.

Thanks upfront.
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post #58 of 107 Old 04-16-2019, 06:17 PM
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Brace down the port


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post #59 of 107 Old 04-16-2019, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Brace down the port


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How should I do that? a vertical board down the center splitting it in two lanes? dowel posts sporadically placed?

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post #60 of 107 Old 04-16-2019, 07:32 PM
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How should I do that? a vertical board down the center splitting it in two lanes?

Yes. Look at how the Martysub vent looks (and most other a lot ports). They run a vertical brace down the middle (so you may need to adjust port length too)...



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