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post #61 of 107 Old 04-16-2019, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Yes. Look at how the Martysub vent looks (and most other a lot ports). They run a vertical brace down the middle (so you may need to adjust port length too)...



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I looked at the Marty's.
If I do that, would it then be considered a two vent box instead of one...which would significantly change my winisd numbers for venting?

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post #62 of 107 Old 04-16-2019, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
I looked at the Marty's.

If I do that, would it then be considered a two vent box instead of one...which would significantly change my winisd numbers for venting?


Not really. Just subtract the width of the brace (3/4”) from the single vent measurement and let it recalculate the length.


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post #63 of 107 Old 04-20-2019, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Not really. Just subtract the width of the brace (3/4”) from the single vent measurement and let it recalculate the length.


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okay, I understand now what NOTNYT was saying in a different post. Makes sense now.

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post #64 of 107 Old 04-20-2019, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
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So I have my vent diameter at 16.5 x 3.75 x 55.01" The 1st port resonance is at 122.99Hz and the velocity is at 28.89 m/s.

will this work as far as resonance and chuffing go? Should I raise either value at the sacrifice of the other value....like lower the height by .25" and raise the resonance to 132 but raise the velocity to 31? Which one is easier to correct later with like polyfil or port flaring?

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post #65 of 107 Old 04-20-2019, 07:30 PM
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I will let @LTD02 weigh in but if I remember right you want port velocity to be 20 or under or your risk chuffing.....

Resonance just means you for sure want to cross the sub at 80hz, as 130 gets REALLY close to cause some vibrations.


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post #66 of 107 Old 04-20-2019, 08:59 PM
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OK, so decided to do a bit of research.

I noticed you have the NU6000 amp. I noticed your planning on running 2 HST's (at some point), but are starting with just the one.

Per some bench tests I found online, in stereo at 2 ohms, you can expect right around 1800 watts @ 4 ohms.

So here are a couple thoughts off the top of my head.

If you lower the power to 1800 watts, you will right at the 20ms threshold. Increasing to 3000 watts (what its spec'd for per channel @ 4 ohm) doesn't really net you a lot SPL wise over 1800 watts, but WILL likely result in chuffing, and chuffing at a frequency where there will be no bass to drown it out.


So what I'm saying is, if you just dont run it full tilt in bridge mode, I bet you wont have any port chuffing.

The port resonance thing, that just says cross it at 80hz and no higher, which is fine.

Just my .02

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post #67 of 107 Old 04-20-2019, 10:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
OK, so decided to do a bit of research.

I noticed you have the NU6000 amp. I noticed your planning on running 2 HST's (at some point), but are starting with just the one.

Per some bench tests I found online, in stereo at 2 ohms, you can expect right around 1800 watts @ 4 ohms.

So here are a couple thoughts off the top of my head.

If you lower the power to 1800 watts, you will right at the 20ms threshold. Increasing to 3000 watts (what its spec'd for per channel @ 4 ohm) doesn't really net you a lot SPL wise over 1800 watts, but WILL likely result in chuffing, and chuffing at a frequency where there will be no bass to drown it out.


So what I'm saying is, if you just dont run it full tilt in bridge mode, I bet you wont have any port chuffing.

The port resonance thing, that just says cross it at 80hz and no higher, which is fine.

Just my .02
I have the NX6000D..if that makes a difference. Yes I was modeling with 3000W. So if I keep the current setting, the velocity of 29m/s won't even happen because the amp won't go over 1800 watts. At 1800 watts, the velocity is 22m/s, so no chuffing?

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post #68 of 107 Old 04-21-2019, 06:08 AM
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Yes. The NX6000D is just a refreshed chassis of the NU6000DSP.

If your going to run 2 of these subs then each will get a max of 1800w which is right at 20(ish) ms so it should be good.

It’s possible it might chuff but you’d have to be running both full tilt to notice and honestly I don’t think. That will happen often.....

So I think you’ve done the best you can.


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post #69 of 107 Old 04-21-2019, 07:32 AM
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[QUOTE=EndersShadow;57931808]OK, so decided to do a bit of research.

I noticed you have the NU6000 amp. I noticed your planning on running 2 HST's (at some point), but are starting with just the one.

Per some bench tests I found online, in stereo at 2 ohms, you can expect right around 1800 watts @ 4 ohms.

I think you wrote something wrong by mistake? The 6000 is not capable of handling a 2 ohm load, 4 and 8ohm yes. As far as the review whether its accurate or not 1500 watt is what was achieved. Not that 300 will make a difference.

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post #70 of 107 Old 04-21-2019, 08:15 AM
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Yes I wrote that wrong. I meant to say “in stereo @ 4 ohms it can do 1800 watts per channel”......

Regardless the real world use of the amp will result in lower velocity due to its “questionable” specs lol.....

So it’s actually a win as even at 1800 watts he’s still got very decent SPL with just a single driver (and he’s doing two if memory serves).


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post #71 of 107 Old 04-21-2019, 08:59 AM
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For the money the 3000 and the 6000 are really great cheap amps decent power for not a lot of money!! My only negative comment pertaining to the OP build is the choice of amps, I also own a pair of of HST 18's ( mine are approx 2 to 3 yrs old? ) a 6000 will push them but not close to their full potential. Another member bear123 had a 6000 and 1 HST and ( not sure ?? ) a SI 18 from his testing the amp ran out of juice before the HST did. I am using a form of a clone A14K for my HST's I can assure you they love power. I have blasted mine at reference and beyond with no issues.

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post #72 of 107 Old 04-21-2019, 09:31 AM
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Warrior's Subwoofer Build

I do concur. The reason to get the HST is its ability down low with its execution limit. You won’t hit that as well with the iNuke......

That said, your box isn’t currently configured for that much power as you noted since it gets to 30ms velocity at 3000 watts.....

So if you really want the most out of the driver, you will want to build it based on the max power you can give it, which means some tweaks to the port tune, port length, or box size.........

So what I’m saying is, your box is built well for an iNuke, not as well for a clone amp...

And IIRC your size is pretty well tapped out in its current configurations....


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post #73 of 107 Old 04-26-2019, 12:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Cart before the horse
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post #74 of 107 Old 04-26-2019, 12:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cichlid109 View Post
For the money the 3000 and the 6000 are really great cheap amps decent power for not a lot of money!! My only negative comment pertaining to the OP build is the choice of amps, I also own a pair of of HST 18's ( mine are approx 2 to 3 yrs old? ) a 6000 will push them but not close to their full potential. Another member bear123 had a 6000 and 1 HST and ( not sure ?? ) a SI 18 from his testing the amp ran out of juice before the HST did. I am using a form of a clone A14K for my HST's I can assure you they love power. I have blasted mine at reference and beyond with no issues.
Dammit

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post #75 of 107 Old 04-26-2019, 04:09 AM
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Was not trying to ruin your day and like I mentioned for the money its a great amp but it has limitations. I am sure you will get some bass but the amp will run out of steam before the HST. Looking at the bright side if you decide to get a better amp you can easily sell the 6000 or use it for other subs that do not require as much. Cannot speak for the newer HST's but mine are great not once have they given me any issues. My current set up I have the amp set for 2500wrms or 5000w peak per channel. The SUbs are in a Dual Opposed cabinet 8cu.ft. Depending on what I am listening to everything in my living room shakes or vibrates.

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post #76 of 107 Old 04-26-2019, 09:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Was not trying to ruin your day and like I mentioned for the money its a great amp but it has limitations. I am sure you will get some bass but the amp will run out of steam before the HST. Looking at the bright side if you decide to get a better amp you can easily sell the 6000 or use it for other subs that do not require as much. Cannot speak for the newer HST's but mine are great not once have they given me any issues. My current set up I have the amp set for 2500wrms or 5000w peak per channel. The SUbs are in a Dual Opposed cabinet 8cu.ft. Depending on what I am listening to everything in my living room shakes or vibrates.
So you're recommending the clones, like the 20k? How cheap are these? Links? So if the 6000 was bridgable, it would have been adequate for one hst. What ampheres am I trying to give the hst, isn't the rms only 2k?

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post #77 of 107 Old 04-27-2019, 04:24 AM
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First off clones are pretty awesome if you get a good one, some are better then others. Personally I bought mine from within the US with the warranty if something happens to send it back to where I bought it from and the problem would be fixed. The idea of a 2 yr telephone support means nothing to me.

Someone put this together
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...links-faq.html


If you do not want to take a chance on a clone the Crest ProLite 7.5 is a strong amp ( I had one pushing the HST's at one time ) There are lots of decent amps out there and of course some cost more then others. If you have the funds SpeakerPower along with Powersoft and the original Lab Gruppen ( not the clone ) are at the top along with prices to match. My amp was purchased from Bossobass A14K 1300.00 not cheap ( at least for me ) but problem free.

From what I have seen with my SI subs they are underrated so I would call Nick and ask tell him what amp your looking at and what he suggests you set the limiter at. There is plenty of info to be had check out the thread I sent if you still have questions concerning the clones ask others who have the 20 or 22K.

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post #78 of 107 Old 04-27-2019, 06:44 AM
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Warrior's Subwoofer Build

Only concern: most clone amps make a lot of noise (put your iNuke to shame kinda noise) and you don’t want to replace the stock fans. Not sure if it’s the case w speakerpower, or Bosso, but crest also has loud fans (they have to to keep the amp cool while providing that much power).

Also if your going to use one we need to look at your box again to try and tame air velocity down low as you will get what they recommend rated for power wise which was a problem at 3000 watts.


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post #79 of 107 Old 04-27-2019, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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First off clones are pretty awesome if you get a good one, some are better then others. Personally I bought mine from within the US with the warranty if something happens to send it back to where I bought it from and the problem would be fixed. The idea of a 2 yr telephone support means nothing to me.

Someone put this together
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...links-faq.html


If you do not want to take a chance on a clone the Crest ProLite 7.5 is a strong amp ( I had one pushing the HST's at one time ) There are lots of decent amps out there and of course some cost more then others. If you have the funds SpeakerPower along with Powersoft and the original Lab Gruppen ( not the clone ) are at the top along with prices to match. My amp was purchased from Bossobass A14K 1300.00 not cheap ( at least for me ) but problem free.

From what I have seen with my SI subs they are underrated so I would call Nick and ask tell him what amp your looking at and what he suggests you set the limiter at. There is plenty of info to be had check out the thread I sent if you still have questions concerning the clones ask others who have the 20 or 22K.
I've tried nick a few times...I dont know...not getting responses. I wish I could return the amp at guitar center, I really thought that one was adequate. I wish it bridged as an alternative, but it doesn't. I guess I will just deal with it.

However, I got the cart before the horse the other day.
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post #80 of 107 Old 04-27-2019, 04:54 PM
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Warrior's Subwoofer Build

How about this. Try it out. See if your not happy.

Just because your leaving performance in the table doesn’t automatically mean it’s performance you actually NOTICE.

If your happy with things as it stands, then leave it alone.

You know there is more in the well, but at some point.... your chasing numbers to show off rather than numbers you’d “use”....

If your NOT HAPPY I bet you that you can sell that 6000 for a slight loss and at least know for sure you NEED a clone. Meanwhile your not totally without a sub.....

**edit** Caveat is that a clone with high power will require some tweaking or a totally new box design to keep port velocity under control.


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post #81 of 107 Old 04-27-2019, 05:12 PM
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^^ This.

I'm driving a pair of UM12s in the family room with an nu1000dsp. I purposely didn't set a HPF, simply limited the output of each channel to 160 watts () to avoid over excursion. I don't need any more than that until I push the system to -10 or so below reference, at which point the subs start falling behind (as evidenced by how often the limiter lights get lit up).

You may be perfectly happy with the 6k...

Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

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post #82 of 107 Old 04-28-2019, 05:11 AM
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I agree with all comments the OP may be totally happy with the amp. Not everyone is into going deaf from the way the cabinet was designed it may sound pretty awesome only one way to find out!! If in fact your not happy as it was mentioned if you post it for sale on the classified section it will sell quick.

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post #83 of 107 Old 08-31-2019, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm getting to the finishline buildwise. The holes for the sub screws are so close to the edge of my opening...I feel like 3/16 to 1/4. How should I attach this thing in MDF. I feel like the screw is going to pop out the side. Should i bolt it with a metal plate? The opening I cut is 17" diameter...I think stereo integrity recommends 16.75 which is only 1/8" short on each side. Why are they so close to the basket?? Anyone have pictures of how they attached their hst-18? The pencil line in the picture is where the outer diameter of the basket will countersink.
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Yamaha Aventage 3070
5.1 Surround Sound. (Klipsch RC 62II center, 4 JBL SP8II, HST-18 Vented Subwoofer 12.5)
Sony XBR-55x850b
PS4 Pro

Last edited by TheWarrior97; 08-31-2019 at 08:58 PM.
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post #84 of 107 Old 09-03-2019, 01:05 AM - Thread Starter
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So after this is built and plugged up to the nx6000d and Yamaha a3070, what do I do. Running ypao on Yamaha? What setting do I do for nx6000d?

Yamaha Aventage 3070
5.1 Surround Sound. (Klipsch RC 62II center, 4 JBL SP8II, HST-18 Vented Subwoofer 12.5)
Sony XBR-55x850b
PS4 Pro
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post #85 of 107 Old 09-03-2019, 01:36 PM
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I'm getting to the finishline buildwise. The holes for the sub screws are so close to the edge of my opening...I feel like 3/16 to 1/4. How should I attach this thing in MDF. I feel like the screw is going to pop out the side. Should i bolt it with a metal plate? The opening I cut is 17" diameter...I think stereo integrity recommends 16.75 which is only 1/8" short on each side. Why are they so close to the basket?? Anyone have pictures of how they attached their hst-18? The pencil line in the picture is where the outer diameter of the basket will countersink.
I was a bit worried about that as well. I used threaded inserts for mine and was concerned that screwing them in would cause the mdf to buckle out. Luckily it didn't, but I had to make sure the pre-drilled holes were big enough. I forget what I went with size-wise, but testing on some scrap piece of board should help to get the size down perfectly so it doesn't buckle the mdf (that's what I ended up doing).


Here's pics from my build for reference:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...sub-build.html
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post #86 of 107 Old 09-03-2019, 09:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
I'm getting to the finishline buildwise. The holes for the sub screws are so close to the edge of my opening...I feel like 3/16 to 1/4. How should I attach this thing in MDF. I feel like the screw is going to pop out the side. Should i bolt it with a metal plate? The opening I cut is 17" diameter...I think stereo integrity recommends 16.75 which is only 1/8" short on each side. Why are they so close to the basket?? Anyone have pictures of how they attached their hst-18? The pencil line in the picture is where the outer diameter of the basket will countersink.
I was a bit worried about that as well. I used threaded inserts for mine and was concerned that screwing them in would cause the mdf to buckle out. Luckily it didn't, but I had to make sure the pre-drilled holes were big enough. I forget what I went with size-wise, but testing on some scrap piece of board should help to get the size down perfectly so it doesn't buckle the mdf (that's what I ended up doing).


Here's pics from my build for reference:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...sub-build.html
Thank you. You look like you have more ledge than I do. Why did you take the rubber surround off the sub?

Yamaha Aventage 3070
5.1 Surround Sound. (Klipsch RC 62II center, 4 JBL SP8II, HST-18 Vented Subwoofer 12.5)
Sony XBR-55x850b
PS4 Pro
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post #87 of 107 Old 09-07-2019, 04:36 PM
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Thank you. You look like you have more ledge than I do. Why did you take the rubber surround off the sub?
I had everything cut to the dimensions given, but I didn't tolerance things very well. I had to sand down the diameters a bit just to fit the sub. With the recess in my baffle, the rubber surround wouldn't fit. But I asked Nick if this would be ok since I had gasket tape on the sub as well and he said it would be fine.
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post #88 of 107 Old 09-09-2019, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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The base of my box is 36x20" or so. What type and how many feet should I be getting?

Yamaha Aventage 3070
5.1 Surround Sound. (Klipsch RC 62II center, 4 JBL SP8II, HST-18 Vented Subwoofer 12.5)
Sony XBR-55x850b
PS4 Pro
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post #89 of 107 Old 09-12-2019, 10:08 AM
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The base of my box is 36x20" or so. What type and how many feet should I be getting?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ191Z6/

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post #90 of 107 Old 10-30-2019, 10:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got it in and box finished. Its shiny...at least far away. I dont know how those autobody shops do it! Now to wire the speakon in the back and hook it up to the nx6000d.
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Yamaha Aventage 3070
5.1 Surround Sound. (Klipsch RC 62II center, 4 JBL SP8II, HST-18 Vented Subwoofer 12.5)
Sony XBR-55x850b
PS4 Pro
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