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post #1 of 107 Old 09-25-2018, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Warrior's Subwoofer Build

I've been talked into building my own home theater subwoofer by Bateman. Although I am not an audiophile, I've built my own pc's, soldered my own xlr's, crafted my own karaoke setup, and renovated my house. I know next to nothing about this but would like to learn how to do it.


My audio history with subs is an onkyo all in a box 5.1 theater from back in 2003, then a JBL ES250P back in 2013ish, then tried a PB-2000 recently.
I would like to gain everything lovely from a sub that's available, but my sweet spot seems to be the mid bass frequencies I have been told...I want stuff to vibrate and I want to feel right in the movie. I utilize my system for 40% movies with explosions and all that good stuff, and 50% television, 9% Video games, and 1% music.


I attached a picture of my setup and the speakers I use for my 5.1 setup in my 15x15' room
4 - JBL SP8II
1 - Klipsch RC-62II
Aventage 3070


I read through that subwoofer thread the best I could that someone put together about setting up our subwoofer correctly and everything there is to know about it. I'll have to reread it again. I was suggested using REW and getting a microphone. Should I do this first before design, building, and purchasing the parts?


My budget is around 700-800 give or take.
So where should I start?

Yamaha Aventage 3070
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post #2 of 107 Old 09-25-2018, 05:49 PM
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How many subs are you looking to get? One has a better waf while 2 gives a more consistent response at the listening position.

How much space is available for subs? Basically how big a box can you fit/do want to fit?

Does your budget include amplification?

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post #3 of 107 Old 09-25-2018, 05:55 PM
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How much space do you have that you are willing to donate to the sub? Is there a WAF that you need to consider? And just how loud do you want it? There are many possibilities that may work for you one would be a V.B.S.S with pa460 drivers. Fo you budget you could do 4 of them with amp. So 4 18" subs that would produce som very nice mis bass punch and have some low bass too. Just a idea for you.
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post #4 of 107 Old 09-25-2018, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jedi940 View Post
How many subs are you looking to get? One has a better waf while 2 gives a more consistent response at the listening position.

How much space is available for subs? Basically how big a box can you fit/do want to fit?

Does your budget include amplification?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I'm open to suggestions. WAF will be in the process of box size and location, but its my money, which likely I can add more later. I'm thinking get a good amp, future proof first. The budget would be mainly for amp and sub. Construction materials I'm not too concerned with, that would be extra cost. I want good quality stuff, not budget stuff, willing to adjust budget or save for something better if need be.

Should I do two separate sub boxes or two subs in one box. We are thinking of a low profile but long box to go behind the couch against the back wall, possibly side wall to side wall. A second option would be speaker dead center below tv facing couch, maybe two speakers one box flared out. Is two separate boxes better than one box with two?

We have children and own our own home, no neighbor concerns and as long as I can turn it down when kids are home, then id like to keep it powerful.

Should I do plate amp or separate?

Yamaha Aventage 3070
5.1 Surround Sound. (Klipsch RC 62II center, 4 JBL SP8II, HST-18 Vented Subwoofer 12.5)
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post #5 of 107 Old 09-25-2018, 08:19 PM
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The best response at the listening position will be from multiple subs placed around the room. If your planning on putting a long box behind the couch, one or two boxes wouldn't make much difference. Two boxes might be easier though especially when moving them around
18" subs are the go-to around here if your space allows. Check out the VBSS subs. While they are the budget option, they are no slouch. The Marty subs are also popular for Dayton ultimax. Dimensions aren't crucial, it's more about box volume and port volume remaining the same.

On the higher end of single subs, there is the Stereo Integrity HST18" for around $800. JK7.2 just upgraded his setup this year with 4 of these and he loves them. You can check out the thread HERE.

Another option is to go even bigger and grab the 21" B&C 21DS115 for around $600. This has become a popular sub around here. Pros are it has a high sensitivity so it doesn't require as much power as the HST18s would. I actually just built 2 myself and they are awesome. The down side is they require rather large ported enclosures. You can check out eng-399's build HERE as he's the one that pretty much started it all.

Also, while they aren't out yet, Fi car audio is releasing a Home Theater line of subs that looks very promising. Hand build in America and hitting the $299, $399, and $499 price points for 18" woofers. So far things look promising for them. Most of the info on the new lineup is on the last page HERE.

The sky is the limit here and most would say buy the biggest subs you can and build the biggest box you can. Once you have those dimensions and pick your driver, it's all about playing with the box size to find what works best with your chosen sub.

I'm sure others will chime in here with some other options that i've missed. Also, all of these subs come in 15" variants as well if that is more the size you're looking for.

As for amplifiers, your best value is probably an inuke, either the 3000 or 6000 depending on what subs you end up with.
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post #6 of 107 Old 09-26-2018, 12:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi940 View Post
The best response at the listening position will be from multiple subs placed around the room. If your planning on putting a long box behind the couch, one or two boxes wouldn't make much difference. Two boxes might be easier though especially when moving them around [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
18" subs are the go-to around here if your space allows. Check out the VBSS subs. While they are the budget option, they are no slouch. The Marty subs are also popular for Dayton ultimax. Dimensions aren't crucial, it's more about box volume and port volume remaining the same.

On the higher end of single subs, there is the Stereo Integrity HST18" for around $800. JK7.2 just upgraded his setup this year with 4 of these and he loves them. You can check out the thread HERE.

Another option is to go even bigger and grab the 21" B&C 21DS115 for around $600. This has become a popular sub around here. Pros are it has a high sensitivity so it doesn't require as much power as the HST18s would. I actually just built 2 myself and they are awesome. The down side is they require rather large ported enclosures. You can check out eng-399's build HERE as he's the one that pretty much started it all.

Also, while they aren't out yet, Fi car audio is releasing a Home Theater line of subs that looks very promising. Hand build in America and hitting the $299, $399, and $499 price points for 18" woofers. So far things look promising for them. Most of the info on the new lineup is on the last page HERE.

The sky is the limit here and most would say buy the biggest subs you can and build the biggest box you can. Once you have those dimensions and pick your driver, it's all about playing with the box size to find what works best with your chosen sub.

I'm sure others will chime in here with some other options that i've missed. Also, all of these subs come in 15" variants as well if that is more the size you're looking for.

As for amplifiers, your best value is probably an inuke, either the 3000 or 6000 depending on what subs you end up with.
Great information. So do I make the sub first or get the mic and do the REW?

Also, is there good design/drawing software out there, free or not, for the sub boxes...I might use it for other wood working projects too.

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post #7 of 107 Old 09-26-2018, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Great information. So do I make the sub first or get the mic and do the REW?

Also, is there good design/drawing software out there, free or not, for the sub boxes...I might use it for other wood working projects too.
Sketchup? I've been using it a while, fairly simple program.
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post #8 of 107 Old 09-26-2018, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Great information. So do I make the sub first or get the mic and do the REW?

Also, is there good design/drawing software out there, free or not, for the sub boxes...I might use it for other wood working projects too.
I would make the subs first. If you want to see what your response looks like after they are in place, then mic is the tool to do it. Also, if you have issues getting them to sound good and want help in the forums, the mic is required since its the only way we can "see" what you're hearing. If you're only doing 1 sub than your ears are probably good enough. Also, if your subs are definitely going behind the couch and they can't be moved around to find the best position for your room, it is arguably unnecessary as well. If your not an audio junky like the rest of us here, constantly upgrading and tweaking your system, you probably don't need a mic. They are fun to play with though and I would recommend getting the calibrated one from CROSS SPECTRUM LABS.

For figuring out the size/tuning of the box, you want to use WinISD. Links are below. If you have to enter drivers, you want to follow the instructions exactly and in that order for there not to be an error with the specs. There is also a rather comprehensive list of files that covers pretty much every driver I've listed so far saving you from having to input the specs yourself.
DOWNLOAD
INSTRUCTIONS
COMMON DRIVER FILES

To build the box, sketchup is popular although I find it frustrating to use. I usually end up with a pencil and paper although that caused me a problem on my last build because I made a mistake and didn't catch it until the box was half built
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post #9 of 107 Old 09-26-2018, 11:23 PM
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Directly behind you firing directly into your back side is the best for movies.


I would go with 18 inch sub or subs...….I found one behind each seat optimal as each person gets their own driver and it allows some versatility of allowing one sub to be turned down for guests/wife/GF that do not like as much bass, but still allows you to have as much as you want.
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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #10 of 107 Old 09-28-2018, 10:41 PM - Thread Starter
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What amp is recommended, 2 channel? 4 channel?

Crown or Behringer or something else?

Yamaha Aventage 3070
5.1 Surround Sound. (Klipsch RC 62II center, 4 JBL SP8II, HST-18 Vented Subwoofer 12.5)
Sony XBR-55x850b
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post #11 of 107 Old 09-28-2018, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
What amp is recommended, 2 channel? 4 channel?

Crown or Behringer or something else?
If you're thinkng of going with dual subs, there's someone selling an inuke 6000dsp here in the AVS classifieds for $290.

Here's the link: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-a...ther-gear.html

Another option for subs is the Johnny Sub. They're sized inbetween the Marty Cube and the Mini Marty. With those you can use the Dayton 460HO's and get that mid-bass that you were referring to.

This is the design that I plan to go with, and I have the all of the info for that build (.wpr file for WinISD, cutlist, cutsheets) if you're interested in going that route. This particular build is tuned to 20Hz @115db, and you should get good in-room response down into the teens.

Here's the link for the Johnny subs if you'd like to look into them: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...johnnysub.html


Hope this is helpful for you,

Darrell

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post #12 of 107 Old 09-29-2018, 12:51 AM - Thread Starter
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If you're thinkng of going with dual subs, there's someone selling an inuke 6000dsp here in the AVS classifieds for $290.

Here's the link: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-a...ther-gear.html

Another option for subs is the Johnny Sub. They're sized inbetween the Marty Cube and the Mini Marty. With those you can use the Dayton 460HO's and get that mid-bass that you were referring to.

This is the design that I plan to go with, and I have the all of the info for that build (.wpr file for WinISD, cutlist, cutsheets) if you're interested in going that route. This particular build is tuned to 20Hz @115db, and you should get good in-room response down into the teens.

Here's the link for the Johnny subs if you'd like to look into them: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...johnnysub.html


Hope this is helpful for you,

Darrell
So what do all these names mean. Are the martys one type of sub, or just a different size sub. Are you required to pick one of those designs for your sub to work accurately? Are they preconfigured for the best results? Do you just pick one depending on the size you want?

Is there a thread that breads down all subwoofer design options and what they can do or the pros and cons of each one?

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post #13 of 107 Old 09-29-2018, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
So what do all these names mean. Are the martys one type of sub, or just a different size sub. Are you required to pick one of those designs for your sub to work accurately? Are they preconfigured for the best results? Do you just pick one depending on the size you want?
Marty, Johnny, V.B.S.S., whatever they want to call it. They are all just ported subwoofer designs. Naming them helps others find them in the search function.

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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Is there a thread that breads down all subwoofer design options and what they can do or the pros and cons of each one?
That would be one monster thread. Best bet is to go through the various design threads and figure out which works within your size constraints/output requirements/price range.

Marty - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...tysub-faq.html

V.B.S.S. - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...gn-thread.html

Johnny - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...johnnysub.html

And a quick Google of any other name someone throws around should get you there.


Or, pick the driver you want, fire up WinISD and make up your own design.
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post #14 of 107 Old 09-29-2018, 07:17 AM
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As @smcmillan2 stated, they are different designs.

I would suggest reading up in the thread links that were provided and do a little research so that you can get a better idea of what might suite your needs (wants ).

Also, with WinISD, you are able to get an idea about how different woofers will respond in different sizes/types of enclosures.
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post #15 of 107 Old 09-29-2018, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Marty, Johnny, V.B.S.S., whatever they want to call it. They are all just ported subwoofer designs. Naming them helps others find them in the search function.

Or, pick the driver you want, fire up WinISD and make up your own design.
+1.

As you learn to use WinISD, you will have questions. You put forth the effort to understand, then ask questions when you don't, you will get answers. At least that is my experience. I don't always like the answers when they point out my obvious ignorance, but put your pride aside and keep forging ahead.

The best part of WinISD is trying different designs and seeing the effect. A LOT cheaper and quicker than buying and building.
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post #16 of 107 Old 09-30-2018, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post

Is there a thread that breads down all subwoofer design options and what they can do or the pros and cons of each one?

Short version...….


Boxes are sized to suit the driver you pick, performance can be altered a little to suit what you are doing, but is mainly a function of the driver.

Mostly you can build a sub box any shape you want as long it has the internal volume required for the driver.



Picking the best driver you can afford will dictate the internal volume of the box with a little wiggle room to skew the performance up or down a little...….shape can be whatever works.



Sealed is the easiest to build with less complexity overall in the box and the DSP settings...….I think sealed provides a little extra safety when you really start pushing it watching movies with some extra volume.




Its best to decide what you want the driver to do first...…..then pick the driver that will do that and then build a enclosure for that driver.


For movies you want a large driver 18 inches or bigger, you need lots of excursion which is the Xmax figure in the driver specs to dig down low and move some air. Usually these take pretty big enclosures 6 to 15 cubic foot depending on the driver to go low.




I would not get too worried about sealed or ported on your first build, it takes a few different builds to tell the differences in sound signature and it takes some time living with each to get a good overall feel for which one you like the best......not something that's going to happen in a couple 45 minute sessions or in a showroom.



I would pick a driver in the 300-600 dollar range. With lots of excursion, build a sealed box for it, get a miniDSP as you will need that for any sub ……….build the right sized box for it in the shape you want to fit your room and usage, use REW to play with everything and have fun.



You can always build a different box later, that's the cheap part...……



I built sealed as my first pair of 18`s and its been over a year now and no regrets...…..I would like to try a ported box in my room with my drivers just to see the difference, but in no way want to build a ported box because the sealed is lacking, they dig down well below 10hz in the sealed boxes as room gain with a sealed box is crazy.


In the end sealed or ported is fine......but sealed is easier and more forgiving.
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Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #17 of 107 Old 09-30-2018, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
So what do all these names mean. Are the martys one type of sub, or just a different size sub. Are you required to pick one of those designs for your sub to work accurately? Are they preconfigured for the best results? Do you just pick one depending on the size you want?

Is there a thread that breads down all subwoofer design options and what they can do or the pros and cons of each one?

The ' Marty ' subs were designed so that people with limited tools and small vehicles can build these out of pre-cut handi-panels. ( small sheets of wood, sold as 2x4 foot or 2x2 )


Sealed: Easy to build, most forgiving. Least sensitivity down low. Small size. ( relative to driver motor strength, moving mass and driver diameter ) To get loud, expect to use a plurality of drivers, large diameter drivers and a lot of power.



Ported: Larger than a sealed enclosure of the same driver, more build complexity. Requires a high pass filter below tuning to protect against driver damage. Some drivers with small box requirements require ports that would be difficult to install in practice. As box requirements go down, port cross sectional area must either be a compromise, or the design should use passive radiators instead of ports. As port cross sectional area increases for a given tuning, the length must also increase. Too small a port cross section increases port losses and increases velocity and noise. Round ports have less surface area than an equivalent rectangular cross section and typically less friction. Too long a port will exhibit pipe resonances.







Horns: Maximum acoustical output for a given speaker driver. A horn is designed around a certain driver, while they may work with other speaker drivers, this must be verified through simulation. Theoretical maximum 50% efficiency, though typically not achieved in practice. Labor intensive to build. Higher raw material costs. Very intolerant of build and design errors. Large low frequency horns are typically folded into a smaller box. HEAVY. Hard to move and place without help.



If you have limited space and higher cash flow, build a sealed subwoofer. If you can sacrifice more space, build a vented enclosure. If you have a lot of space to spare, build a horn.

Ask your doctor if DIY is right for you. Side effects of DIY may include anxiety, elevated blood pressure, lightheadedness, rapid heartbeat, skeletal muscle flaccidity, euphoria, psychological dependence, insomnia, confusion, blurred vision, impulsivity, uncontrolled or repeated movements.
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post #18 of 107 Old 09-30-2018, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
So what do all these names mean. Are the martys one type of sub, or just a different size sub. Are you required to pick one of those designs for your sub to work accurately? Are they preconfigured for the best results? Do you just pick one depending on the size you want?

Is there a thread that breads down all subwoofer design options and what they can do or the pros and cons of each one?

The ' Marty ' subs were designed so that people with limited tools and small vehicles can build these out of pre-cut handi-panels. ( small sheets of wood, sold as 2x4 foot or 2x2 )


Sealed: Easy to build, most forgiving. Least sensitivity down low. Small size. ( relative to driver motor strength, moving mass and driver diameter ) To get loud, expect to use a plurality of drivers, large diameter drivers and a lot of power.



Ported: Larger than a sealed enclosure of the same driver, more build complexity. Requires a high pass filter below tuning to protect against driver damage. Some drivers with small box requirements require ports that would be difficult to install in practice. As box requirements go down, port cross sectional area must either be a compromise, or the design should use passive radiators instead of ports. As port cross sectional area increases for a given tuning, the length must also increase. Too small a port cross section increases port losses and increases velocity and noise. Round ports have less surface area than an equivalent rectangular cross section and typically less friction. Too long a port will exhibit pipe resonances.







Horns: Maximum acoustical output for a given speaker driver. A horn is designed around a certain driver, while they may work with other speaker drivers, this must be verified through simulation. Theoretical maximum 50% efficiency, though typically not achieved in practice. Labor intensive to build. Higher raw material costs. Very intolerant of build and design errors. Large low frequency horns are typically folded into a smaller box. HEAVY. Hard to move and place without help.



If you have limited space and higher cash flow, build a sealed subwoofer. If you can sacrifice more space, build a vented enclosure. If you have a lot of space to spare, build a horn.
That's helpful, gives me a round about idea. Thank you

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post #19 of 107 Old 09-30-2018, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Is there a thread that breads down all subwoofer design options and what they can do or the pros and cons of each one?

Short version...….


Boxes are sized to suit the driver you pick, performance can be altered a little to suit what you are doing, but is mainly a function of the driver.

Mostly you can build a sub box any shape you want as long it has the internal volume required for the driver.



Picking the best driver you can afford will dictate the internal volume of the box with a little wiggle room to skew the performance up or down a little...….shape can be whatever works.



Sealed is the easiest to build with less complexity overall in the box and the DSP settings...….I think sealed provides a little extra safety when you really start pushing it watching movies with some extra volume.




Its best to decide what you want the driver to do first...…..then pick the driver that will do that and then build a enclosure for that driver.


For movies you want a large driver 18 inches or bigger, you need lots of excursion which is the Xmax figure in the driver specs to dig down low and move some air. Usually these take pretty big enclosures 6 to 15 cubic foot depending on the driver to go low.




I would not get too worried about sealed or ported on your first build, it takes a few different builds to tell the differences in sound signature and it takes some time living with each to get a good overall feel for which one you like the best......not something that's going to happen in a couple 45 minute sessions or in a showroom.



I would pick a driver in the 300-600 dollar range. With lots of excursion, build a sealed box for it, get a miniDSP as you will need that for any sub ……….build the right sized box for it in the shape you want to fit your room and usage, use REW to play with everything and have fun.



You can always build a different box later, that's the cheap part...……



I built sealed as my first pair of 18`s and its been over a year now and no regrets...…..I would like to try a ported box in my room with my drivers just to see the difference, but in no way want to build a ported box because the sealed is lacking, they dig down well below 10hz in the sealed boxes as room gain with a sealed box is crazy.


In the end sealed or ported is fine......but sealed is easier and more forgiving.
I would like to get the behringer nx6000d or 3000 model. Does the minidsp have an advantage over the one in the nx? Less wires better for me, but I dont want to miss something either. Someone mentioned that the minidsp gets below 20hz but the behringer stops at 20? Is this true? Is one better or easier over the other?

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post #20 of 107 Old 09-30-2018, 12:40 PM
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"Horns: Maximum acoustical output for a given speaker driver. A horn is designed around a certain driver, while they may work with other speaker drivers, this must be verified through simulation. Theoretical maximum 50% efficiency, though typically not achieved in practice. Labor intensive to build. Higher raw material costs. Very intolerant of build and design errors. Large low frequency horns are typically folded into a smaller box. HEAVY. Hard to move and place without help'

spot on . . .

and worth every minute and dime . .

for me the placement options of BFM THTLP's are a real world plus..

I run 2 with BASH 300 amps and the amp gains are barely 15% of the dial

not necessarily as deep as some may want but a solid 22 Hz design for clean smooth sensitiviy

and rmemember there is a lot so be said for good 20+ response over "but- but- DEEPER!

YMMV
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post #21 of 107 Old 09-30-2018, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
"Horns: Maximum acoustical output for a given speaker driver. A horn is designed around a certain driver, while they may work with other speaker drivers, this must be verified through simulation. Theoretical maximum 50% efficiency, though typically not achieved in practice. Labor intensive to build. Higher raw material costs. Very intolerant of build and design errors. Large low frequency horns are typically folded into a smaller box. HEAVY. Hard to move and place without help'

spot on . . .

and worth every minute and dime . .

for me the placement options of BFM THTLP's are a real world plus..

I run 2 with BASH 300 amps and the amp gains are barely 15% of the dial

not necessarily as deep as some may want but a solid 22 Hz design for clean smooth sensitiviy

and remember there is a lot so be said for good 20+ response over "but- but- DEEPER!

YMMV

Yes, you are correct in that your mileage may vary. Just how deep is the rabbit hole.... that is the question.
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post #22 of 107 Old 09-30-2018, 07:11 PM
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Yes, you are correct in that your mileage may vary. Just how deep is the rabbit hole.... that is the question.

I like spending my days deep in the rabbit hole....I have met some good people there.....
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post #23 of 107 Old 10-01-2018, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm thinking two subwoofers, 18", looking at the Dayton Ultimax and the Stereo Integrity HST MKIII. Was there ever a clear winner between these two? Could I get good mid bass out of them and get below 20hz?

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post #24 of 107 Old 10-01-2018, 10:55 PM
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Those stereo integrity woofers are head and shoulders better.....like worlds and worlds better.



Twice the power and twice the excursion...…..plus they are repairable and built in the USA by one of our members here...Nick.







I have the cheapo stereo integrity 18`s...…..I cant even imagine a pair of those....



Those would be a winner for sure ! Top of the line product !



Those would be devastating down to 10hz easy and yes, with a sealed enclose lots of mid bass is possible and they look to call for a fairly small sealed enclosure. That's the beauty of DSP, you can adjust the low end or midbass to suit your personal taste......

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html
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post #25 of 107 Old 10-01-2018, 11:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
Those stereo integrity woofers are head and shoulders better.....like worlds and worlds better.



Twice the power and twice the excursion...…..plus they are repairable and built in the USA by one of our members here...Nick.







I have the cheapo stereo integrity 18`s...…..I cant even imagine a pair of those....



Those would be a winner for sure ! Top of the line product !



Those would be devastating down to 10hz easy and yes, with a sealed enclose lots of mid bass is possible and they look to call for a fairly small sealed enclosure. That's the beauty of DSP, you can adjust the low end or midbass to suit your personal taste......

One downside is they only have a 1 year warranty, whereas the Dayton's have a 5 year.

Do you know does it matter if I get a minidsp or just use the dsp on the amp, like behringers or crowns? Is one better than the other?

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post #26 of 107 Old 10-03-2018, 12:25 AM
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One downside is they only have a 1 year warranty, whereas the Dayton's have a 5 year.

Do you know does it matter if I get a minidsp or just use the dsp on the amp, like behringers or crowns? Is one better than the other?

I have been hammering on mine for almost 2 years now......no problems,if they hold up a year, they should last quite a while.


Also no reconing a Dayton um.....


The new ones from FI are looking good, but it might be weeks to months until a solid report comes out on them. If you are not building immediately, definatly one to consider.....



They can all be used to do about the same thing one way or another.....any of them are better than nothing and all of them are pretty good...…….there might be some slight adjustments one will do better than the other......any of them should work fine.


I only have the Minidsp and Behringer...….., crown should be about the same I would guess...….I like the minidsp as then I am not constrained on any amp I want or any deal that might pop up......I like the minidsp best.

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html

Last edited by unretarded; 10-03-2018 at 12:31 AM.
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post #27 of 107 Old 10-03-2018, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
One downside is they only have a 1 year warranty, whereas the Dayton's have a 5 year.

Do you know does it matter if I get a minidsp or just use the dsp on the amp, like behringers or crowns? Is one better than the other?
Behringer is the better dsp. The dsp is severely lacking in the xls line.

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post #28 of 107 Old 11-16-2018, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Now that black Friday is coming, I'm considering purchasing the nx6000d amp and the fi audio sp4 2 driver. Its available in 1 ohm and 2ohm. Will it work, should I be looking for something with a different ohm? What's the difference between stitched and hybrid leads?

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post #29 of 107 Old 11-16-2018, 11:20 AM
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Now that black Friday is coming, I'm considering purchasing the nx6000d amp and the fi audio sp4 2 driver. Its available in 1 ohm and 2ohm. Will it work, should I be looking for something with a different ohm? What's the difference between stitched and hybrid leads?

The NX6000D is two bridged 3000 modules in one chassis. It can drive 4 ohm loads only per channel, and is not bridgeable. ( cannot bridge a bridge )



Two of the 2 ohm drivers can be used in series to obtain a load that the Behringer can drive, but that would only be one channel. How many drivers are you planning?

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post #30 of 107 Old 11-16-2018, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TheWarrior97 View Post
Now that black Friday is coming, I'm considering purchasing the nx6000d amp and the fi audio sp4 2 driver. Its available in 1 ohm and 2ohm. Will it work, should I be looking for something with a different ohm? What's the difference between stitched and hybrid leads?

The NX6000D is two bridged 3000 modules in one chassis. It can drive 4 ohm loads only per channel, and is not bridgeable. ( cannot bridge a bridge )



Two of the 2 ohm drivers can be used in series to obtain a load that the Behringer can drive, but that would only be one channel. How many drivers are you planning?

One now, two possible in the future. So how many ohm driver should I look for?

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