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post #61 of 123 Old 10-16-2018, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tsloms View Post
Are you using the 8 or 16 ohm version of the 4594? I have the 16 and an currently using the BMS xo with eq but would like to try that xo. Matt has done some xo work for me in the past and does a wonderful job.
Mine are 8ohm, so this XO would require some modification to work with his 16ohm drivers. Good call.
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post #62 of 123 Old 10-18-2018, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Mine are 8ohm, so this XO would require some modification to work with his 16ohm drivers. Good call.
Right, still thinking to try fully active.

Got the Ashly Protea 4.8SP today and will test it.

Thinking to maybe get a BSS Blu-100 so I can play around with FIR at some point.

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post #63 of 123 Old 10-19-2018, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Cut all my angles and it fits together!




And the drivers fit!





Gotta get my threaded inserts installed and can glue them up tomorrow.

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post #64 of 123 Old 10-19-2018, 09:58 PM
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post #65 of 123 Old 10-20-2018, 03:42 AM
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That looks freaking awesome sir.
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post #66 of 123 Old 10-20-2018, 06:26 AM
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These look so cool! I can’t imagine what this complete setup is going to be like with the SKhorns.
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post #67 of 123 Old 10-20-2018, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Got everything glued up, should get them fired up tomorrow.

I need to paint my two new skhorns as well.
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post #68 of 123 Old 10-20-2018, 02:40 PM
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Very clean work sir!!
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post #69 of 123 Old 10-20-2018, 04:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Very clean work sir!!
Don't worry, I made it ugly with PL everywhere and screws :P




Going to scrape PL off tomorrow, sand the inside a bit, get the top and back glued on tomorrow, flush trim, get some bondo in the screw holes, sand, and paint.

Then the fun begins of trying to figure out running them active.

This has been getting most of the weekend time:

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post #70 of 123 Old 10-21-2018, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Well if everything didn't take twice as long as it should, I'd be done.

Painted both Skhorns today and got these guys bondo'ed, sanded, and painted.



However as you can see, no top / bottom yet.

1. Need to put some curve in the corners of the horn. Any recommendations? Some foam would be great, but thinking to maybe cut a PVC pipe into quarters and fasten it? Any smarter recommendations?

2. The bottom needs a cut-out for the pole mount, but I want to find the balance point so I can put it in the right place.

Getting real close though!

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post #71 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 02:32 AM
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I would like to know why you guys purchase these expensive devices for outboard DSP like the Ashly Protea 4.8SP or the BSS Blu100 when you could go a cheaper, easier route and do the DSP on your PC running software and using a high quality audio interface? I am not knocking your decisions on this, but wouldn’t a high quality audio interface coupled with the right software do everything these outboard DSP units do and more? Would the PC + high end interface not be more flexible and potentially have better performance and better connectivity?
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post #72 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post
I would like to know why you guys purchase these expensive devices for outboard DSP like the Ashly Protea 4.8SP or the BSS Blu100 when you could go a cheaper, easier route and do the DSP on your PC running software and using a high quality audio interface? I am not knocking your decisions on this, but wouldn’t a high quality audio interface coupled with the right software do everything these outboard DSP units do and more? Would the PC + high end interface not be more flexible and potentially have better performance and better connectivity?
What do you mean by higher performance? A PC hypothetically gives you unlimited options for DSP/channels but these units give you an already configured interface and low noise. I don't know if the PC configuration would be able to reach the noise level of some of these high end units.


When looking at a device that is 112db, noise floor is pretty important, unless you like white noise/hiss.
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post #73 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post
1. Need to put some curve in the corners of the horn. Any recommendations? Some foam would be great, but thinking to maybe cut a PVC pipe into quarters and fasten it? Any smarter recommendations?

2. The bottom needs a cut-out for the pole mount, but I want to find the balance point so I can put it in the right place.

Getting real close though!
The curve is mainly for aesthetics you can try it without since it doesn't seem like your using grills.. If you must then you can do something like this...
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post #74 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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The curve is mainly for aesthetics you can try it without since it doesn't seem like your using grills.. If you must then you can do something like this...
Just to clarify, I'm talking about these guys:



Is that what you're referring to?

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post #75 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 07:19 AM
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I love the speaker concept. Can't wait to hear your listening impressions!

I'll see your 33 and raise it with a 32 Hi-Boy with a 330 Hemi!
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post #76 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 07:56 AM
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Whats the radius/size of the curve you are trying to achieve?
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post #77 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wrager View Post
I love the speaker concept. Can't wait to hear your listening impressions!

I'll see your 33 and raise it with a 32 Hi-Boy with a 330 Hemi!
Beautiful!

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Originally Posted by nater1 View Post
Whats the radius/size of the curve you are trying to achieve?
Eh, 3" radius would probably work nicely. Foam in that shape would be great, maybe I could do 6" sonotube quartered?


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post #78 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tip24/96 View Post
I would like to know why you guys purchase these expensive devices for outboard DSP like the Ashly Protea 4.8SP or the BSS Blu100 when you could go a cheaper, easier route and do the DSP on your PC running software and using a high quality audio interface?
A PC based solution cannot decode ATMOS/DTS-X at the moment
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post #79 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 01:06 PM
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A PC based solution cannot decode ATMOS/DTS-X at the moment
doesn't need to, talking outboard device with in/out.
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post #80 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trimlock View Post
What do you mean by higher performance? A PC hypothetically gives you unlimited options for DSP/channels but these units give you an already configured interface and low noise. I don't know if the PC configuration would be able to reach the noise level of some of these high end units.


When looking at a device that is 112db, noise floor is pretty important, unless you like white noise/hiss.
Even a cheap interface can best the ashly devices. There are plenty out there with very low noise floors.
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post #81 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 01:41 PM
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To avoid going off-topic, do you have any link that can show the type of scenario you are describing?
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post #82 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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To avoid going off-topic, do you have any link that can show the type of scenario you are describing?
Curious as well, on topic for my needs currently and the direction I go with these speakers
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post #83 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 02:17 PM
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Even a cheap interface can best the ashly devices. There are plenty out there with very low noise floors.


I didn’t mean to imply you had to go exotic.

As for the curve in the corner, cardboard tube should work.


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post #84 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 03:06 PM
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Curious as well, on topic for my needs currently and the direction I go with these speakers
Great

So i hope you don't mind if i present my scenario: i'm building a modular 3-way L/R speakers (will start as a 2 way), with the following components:
- Beyma 15p80nd: X < 350Hz (Will be added in a distant future)
- AE TD12M: 350 < X < 1500Hz
- Beyma TPL-150H: 1500Hz < X < 20000Hz

(Crossover points will be dictated by real measures, but should be around these values).

Crossover will be Active, and i'm debating between a Monacor DSM-48LAN or dB-Mark XCA48

The system DSP will be handled by a NAD T758 V3, with Dirac Live, and initially it will be something like this:


Due to several personal and professional constraints, i didn't have the time to complete these yet (i already have all the drivers), and will probably only have them completed in 2019.
At the same time, i'm planning building an HTPC for 4K and madVR.

Initially, i thought it would be possible to have something like this, but i then discarded after realizing that there is no computer based solution for Atmos/DTS-X decoding:


@notnyt and @Tip24/96 , what would i need to change in the above workflow, in order to be able to have the HTPC performing both moving decoding, L/R crossovers, BUT having the NAD DSP for all channels? For me it would be the perfect solution, as everything would be handled by the same computer. Is this even possible?
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post #85 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 03:06 PM
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Don't put some flimsy cardboard in those magnificent speakers.

Can't you cut a bunch of small pieces on the CNC and laminate them together?
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post #86 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
Great

So i hope you don't mind if i present my scenario: i'm building a modular 3-way L/R speakers (will start as a 2 way), with the following components:
- Beyma 15p80nd: X < 350Hz (Will be added in a distant future)
- AE TD12M: 350 < X < 1500Hz
- Beyma TPL-150H: 1500Hz < X < 20000Hz

(Crossover points will be dictated by real measures, but should be around these values).

Crossover will be Active, and i'm debating between a Monacor DSM-48LAN or dB-Mark XCA48

The system DSP will be handled by a NAD T758 V3, with Dirac Live, and initially it will be something like this:


Due to several personal and professional constraints, i didn't have the time to complete these yet (i already have all the drivers), and will probably only have them completed in 2019.
At the same time, i'm planning building an HTPC for 4K and madVR.

Initially, i thought it would be possible to have something like this, but i then discarded after realizing that there is no computer based solution for Atmos/DTS-X decoding:


@notnyt and @Tip24/96 , what would i need to change in the above workflow, in order to be able to have the HTPC performing both moving decoding, L/R crossovers, BUT having the NAD DSP for all channels? For me it would be the perfect solution, as everything would be handled by the same computer. Is this even possible?
You could try with jriver, but then you're going analog to the avr. better to do it the first way. You could always have the same pc connected to an audio interface doing the dsp there as well, but there's no real way to keep it in the digital domain between the htpc and avr.

I'm running a similar setup to your first scenario. The DSP/XO is run by an external PC in mine, though. I could have run it on my main htpc, but I wanted it separate so it didn't have to run all the time the system was running. It's just a tiny little linux box running brutefir hooked up to an interface over usb.
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post #87 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 03:17 PM
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So basically you are suggesting a separated PC to function as crossover only?
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post #88 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
Don't put some flimsy cardboard in those magnificent speakers.



Can't you cut a bunch of small pieces on the CNC and laminate them together?


Mailing cardboard tubes are hardly flimsy and much easier to paint/hide than PVC.


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post #89 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post
So basically you are suggesting a separated PC to function as crossover only?
Can do it either way, I just chose to do it that way so I could run realtime linux for brutefir.

You can just as easily hook the interface to your htpc and run whatever eq software you want for it.

The PC is the little box on the top right next to the motu 8a.

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post #90 of 123 Old 10-22-2018, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samps View Post
Don't put some flimsy cardboard in those magnificent speakers.

Can't you cut a bunch of small pieces on the CNC and laminate them together?
I went the PVC route, 6" pipe was easy to get locally. Probably would have been fine with cardboard tube as well, but I do feel better doing this.

Yes with the cnc I could do a lot, the best scenario would be to take some hard foam and carve away to a nice curve, but I'm feeling done building these....

Scratched up the PVC and primed before putting them in. Came out really solid, should take duratex fine. I'm eventually going to put a grill on anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
Can do it either way, I just chose to do it that way so I could run realtime linux for brutefir.

You can just as easily hook the interface to your htpc and run whatever eq software you want for it.

The PC is the little box on the top right next to the motu 8a.
Do you have a clear breakdown of your signal path right now? I just skimmed your full active thread.

The processing side is very interesting and I'm excited to learn more.

Does anyone have thoughts on the QSC Q-sys 110c?

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