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superkyle 11-08-2018 05:29 PM

Need design/woodwork advice
 
Hey guys I’ve recently purchased a uxl18 as well as the new nx6000d. I have read though just about every Marty faq/build thread I could find. I want to build an end table design with the height of 30-32” so basically the height of the Johnny sub. I would like to make it a downfiring sub since it will be a table. While I have woodworking experience I am absolutely terrible at visualizing what I need to make it work. I’m curious if any of those that have built a table version or even @LTD02 would mind helping me out with the design and ensure that the port length remain correct.


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LTD02 11-08-2018 05:40 PM

as a first step, you might want to search on google images for: martysub endtable

that will bring up a lot of different form factors. some of them are really amazing!

i'd be happy to help, but there are several folks around who may be able to help equally well. :-)

generally, if you keep the port the same size and length, and the cab the same volume, it will perform equally well regardless of specific form factor.

Vince_B 11-08-2018 05:43 PM

Are you going to run two subs? 6k can’t bridge so with one uxl you’re going to be running one channel only. Simple fix, add a uxl.

There are some cool end table designs floating around, one was stenciled like a box of tnt which was a cool idea. And some that are more traditional furniture.



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superkyle 11-08-2018 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTD02 (Post 57080784)
as a first step, you might want to search on google images for: martysub endtable



that will bring up a lot of different form factors. some of them are really amazing!



i'd be happy to help, but there are several folks around who may be able to help equally well. :-)



generally, if you keep the port the same size and length, and the cab the same volume, it will perform equally well regardless of specific form factor.



Oh trust me I have! There really are amazing tables. I really love the one made by @squiers007 and @SccttS . If I remember correctly those tables end up with the volume as a Marty cube. I want to expand on that to a step up to maximize the UXL18 potential while maintaining the WAF. So my main concerns are how the legs were cut and or attached. Also what height does the driver need to be off the ground to ensure that the air velocity does not apply back pressure into the box nor the excursion of the driver reach the ground.


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superkyle 11-08-2018 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince_B (Post 57080796)
Are you going to run two subs? 6k can’t bridge so with one uxl you’re going to be running one channel only. Simple fix, add a uxl.

There are some cool end table designs floating around, one was stenciled like a box of tnt which was a cool idea. And some that are more traditional furniture.



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Yes! Currently I have a Rythmik Fv25hp and I want to get this first build under my belt. The ultimate plan is to sell the Rythmik and build two ulx18s. Since it wasn’t much more to opt for the 6000 out of the gate it made sense to just use one channel for now and add another one later on the same amp.


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LTD02 11-08-2018 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superkyle (Post 57080856)
Oh trust me I have! There really are amazing tables. I really love the one made by @squiers007 and @SccttS . If I remember correctly those tables end up with the volume as a Marty cube. I want to expand on that to a step up to maximize the UXL18 potential while maintaining the WAF. So my main concerns are how the legs were cut and or attached. Also what height does the driver need to be off the ground to ensure that the air velocity does not apply back pressure into the box nor the excursion of the driver reach the ground.
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great! height of the driver from the floor somewhere around 3" depending on size of panel that is facing the floor. the port may not be as sensitive to leg placement as you may be thinking. a cab marty-style cab turned face down and raised up on 3" square blocks would end up with a slightly lower tuning than the standard martysub, but it will work just fine.

superkyle 11-08-2018 06:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)
To help give an idea of what I am going for here is some pictures of my living room with the furniture I have currently built.

Attachment 2479730

My plan is to replace the end table that is between the couch and love seat. Stain the table to match the rest of the furniture. Since it will be covered by the couches on two sides I figured I will not go through the hassle of adding any drawers or anything. Basically what I would like is a box that is the same size as one of those end tables. That would require me to alter the Johnny sub. The way I see it with the sub facing down the depth must be changed from 25.5 to something like 26”which will leave around 4-5” for leg height. To make up the volume that would be there with the height of 32” chance it to a 27”x28” rectangle.

Basically it would become a 27”x28” rectangle that is a total of 31” tall. Would this look stupid? How would these changes effect the port design?


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LTD02 11-08-2018 07:04 PM

3 Attachment(s)
this is a johnnysub with legs and a top.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541732565

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541732565

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541732565

modifying dimensions isn't too much work.

i'm just not really clear on which dimensions you want modified in which way.

superkyle 11-09-2018 04:45 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by LTD02 (Post 57081088)
this is a johnnysub with legs and a top.







modifying dimensions isn't too much work.



i'm just not really clear on which dimensions you want modified in which way.


I apologize as I was distracted last night and could not give a more clear description.
Below is a picture of an end table that I will be replacing. I have three total.


Attachment 2479960

The dimensions of the end table are 27x27x28 with the height being the 28”. What I’m considering is making a Johnny sub volume box but with the dimensions of 28x28x25. Total volume of 11.34 ft3 while I calculated a raw volume of 11.33ft3 for the standard Johnny. Once built I want to add legs to it to lift it off the ground 3”. I also want to add a top made of 1x4. To attach the top I want to basically frame the top of the box in 2X2 wood and screw the top to it. This should make the final dimensions of the top 30”x30” and the total height at 28.75”

Basically if you look at the picture I want to build s Johnny sub with the same basic dimensions as the image above. Instead of a 2x4 top use 1x4 and frame the box with the Xs. Maybe this was a bit more clear maybe not haha let me know if it makes sense and I will try to explain in greater detail.



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Red Five 11-09-2018 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTD02 (Post 57081088)
this is a johnnysub with legs and a top.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541732565

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541732565

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541732565

modifying dimensions isn't too much work.

i'm just not really clear on which dimensions you want modified in which way.


I am going to keep stalling my wife on purchasing end tables... These look nice!

superkyle 11-09-2018 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Five (Post 57082932)
I am going to keep stalling my wife on purchasing end tables... These look nice!



Yeah I agree they look very nice. I have even got the wife to approve of them which I was shocked! While they look perfect I want to change the dimensions as I said above to match and blend within my room. Since it’s a substantial change in dimensions I am worried about how much port is facing down versus perpendicular to the sub. Heck I’m not even sure it matter but I want to ask the experts for sure.


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Red Five 11-09-2018 09:00 AM

PM eng-399? John might have his hands full with the flat pack venture :)

superkyle 11-09-2018 09:18 AM

Need design/woodwork advice
 
I’m not sure who @eng-399 is but I’m guessing he is the expert lol. Maybe by using the @ he can come here bc I want to keep this documented bc I plan to do a full out build thread once I get it right to help people with the design cutlist how to attach the legs etc.


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Red Five 11-09-2018 09:32 AM

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...uned-25hz.html :D


He was the main inspiration going into the 21DS115 rabbit hole.

Trimlock 11-09-2018 09:36 AM

When you change the width of the port you have to change the length too. I think it will help greatly to just determine what your size restrictions are, driver you want to use and tuning you are hoping for. Modeling a box really quickly in ISD isn't that big of deal, coming up with a cut list is also fairly easy.

LTD02 11-09-2018 09:43 AM

1 Attachment(s)
i'm still not clear on which dimensions are which. :-)

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541785324

what do you want the H W D to be using this image as the model?

H:
W:
D:

superkyle 11-09-2018 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Five (Post 57083574)
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...uned-25hz.html :D


He was the main inspiration going into the 21DS115 rabbit hole.



Holy crap that setup is outstanding. One day I plan to build a house equity with a home theater room. And then begging my screen will be several monsters!


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superkyle 11-09-2018 09:57 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by LTD02 (Post 57083654)
i'm still not clear on which dimensions are which. :-)



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541785324



what do you want the H W D to be using this image as the model?



H:

W:

D:



Hopefully these markups can help explain what I mean. The confusion is coming in when I try to talk about the box dimensions vs the finished table dimensions.

Box only dimensions should be
H: 25”
L: 28”
W: 28

Adding the length of the legs, thickness of the tabletop assuming .75” thick wood top and width of the overhanging tabletop makes the final dimensions
H: 28.75”
L: 30”
W: 30”

I’ve attached a markup of your picture hopefully it’s semi clear as all I have to mark on it currently is my phone

Attachment 2480178


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LTD02 11-09-2018 10:37 AM

3 Attachment(s)
making the cab wider like that will require making the port shorter (in height), so this one uses a 2" tall port.

tuning should end up around 19hz or so.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541788563

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541788563

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541788563

Red Five 11-09-2018 10:54 AM

Nice work John, Cube XL!

LTD02 11-09-2018 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Five (Post 57084044)
Nice work John, Cube XL!

that's kind of how it turned out isn't it!? :-)

Red Five 11-09-2018 11:10 AM

:p


The internal volume sits at ~7.0 ft3? This one looks like it will be on the recommendation list :)

superkyle 11-09-2018 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTD02 (Post 57083968)
making the cab wider like that will require making the port shorter (in height), so this one uses a 2" tall port.



tuning should end up around 19hz or so.



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541788563



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541788563



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1541788563



Outstanding John I am eternally in your debt. I plan to get started on it this weekend if I can. I can’t wait. I’m sure I’ll have additional questions but you are a life saver sir.


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superkyle 11-09-2018 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Five (Post 57084100)
:p


The internal volume sits at ~7.0 ft3? This one looks like it will be on the recommendation list :)



Cube XL haha perfect way to describe it! If I did my math correctly it should be the same internal volume of the Johnny sub. Actually should be .01ft3 larger. But the changing of the ports may alter that.


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Red Five 11-09-2018 12:05 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Double check me on this.

superkyle 11-09-2018 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Five (Post 57084424)
Double check me on this.

Just went through the list and looks right to me I came up with the same thing! Thank you for putting this together. I think I am going to go with birch wood since I will be staining and do not have experience with vaneering anything. Plus this way I can make all the cuts and stain the wood before assemble. Only downfall is I have found that wood filler after brad nails typically doesn't take stain that well. I remember reading on a previous thread of a guy building a box using pocket holes and glue. Any downfall to using pocketholes? Or I guess I could always take my time and not try to rush it by gluing and clamping every part to ensure a smooth and even surface...

superkyle 11-09-2018 01:41 PM

2 Attachment(s)
By the way look what I got in the mail today!!!

Attachment 2480348Attachment 2480350


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superkyle 11-09-2018 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superkyle (Post 57084878)
By the way look what I got in the mail today!!!

Attachment 2480348Attachment 2480350



Holy crap [emoji90] not sure I have ever seen an 18” sub before. My wife is going to flip haha

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Red Five 11-09-2018 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superkyle (Post 57084878)
By the way look what I got in the mail today!!!

Attachment 2480348Attachment 2480350


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Time to start the build thread :D

philly_03 11-09-2018 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superkyle (Post 57084878)
By the way look what I got in the mail today!!!

Attachment 2480348Attachment 2480350


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Hehehe....I have a feeling that this build thread is going to be kicked in high gear!!!

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