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post #121 of 139 Old 04-14-2019, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by blister64 View Post
Well... Don't stack your speakers that are covered in DuraTex. At least not for a long time. Website said 7 days til fully cured. After 7 days, I took the thumbnail photo for the video in the previous post and left them that way for about 2 days. The result was it stuck to itself and pulled off the finish on my center channel.
I've had the same problem even longer than 7 days, not quite as extensive as that but even a month's time before. I've ended up just placing a towel between the speakers to avoid that problem. Which I've rolled my DuraTex on. I don't know if spray on has a different cure time, or if the amount of layers has any effects on the long-term cure time.
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post #122 of 139 Old 04-14-2019, 09:11 AM
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I have had the same thing happen on my Duratexed Cnotes at least a year after building them when the cabinets were sitting on one another in my closet. Not terrible but came off down to the bare mdf.
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post #123 of 139 Old 04-14-2019, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hoodcom View Post
I've had the same problem even longer than 7 days, not quite as extensive as that but even a month's time before. I've ended up just placing a towel between the speakers to avoid that problem. Which I've rolled my DuraTex on. I don't know if spray on has a different cure time, or if the amount of layers has any effects on the long-term cure time.
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I have had the same thing happen on my Duratexed Cnotes at least a year after building them when the cabinets were sitting on one another in my closet. Not terrible but came off down to the bare mdf.
Yea I'm at the point to where I'll be setting either a towel or some rubber feet on things if I need to stack them at all. I'm planning on my center channel resting on my sub cabinets, so at least I learned that lesson now... Great stuff so far, seems very durable, but likes to stick to itself.

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post #124 of 139 Old 04-14-2019, 11:38 AM
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Yea I'm at the point to where I'll be setting either a towel or some rubber feet on things if I need to stack them at all. I'm planning on my center channel resting on my sub cabinets, so at least I learned that lesson now... Great stuff so far, seems very durable, but likes to stick to itself.
You going with an AT screen? The 1299 center on top of 24's will be what? At least 36" high?
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post #125 of 139 Old 04-14-2019, 06:46 PM
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Hold on quick question on your video you said you ran your 1299 full range. I was told when i finish mines that they wasn't design to run full range. Your setup similar to mines.

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post #126 of 139 Old 04-14-2019, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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You going with an AT screen? The 1299 center on top of 24's will be what? At least 36" high?
I will be setting it up like the provided picture. The little "shelf" areas in the middle will increase the internal volume for the 24s and give a stand for the center to sit on. The top of the center should be the same height as the top of the sub boxes if I can use a tape measure correctly... lol. 2 birds 1 stone sort of deal. That's the plan anyways.


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Hold on quick question on your video you said you ran your 1299 full range. I was told when i finish mines that they wasn't design to run full range. Your setup similar to mines.
I listened to the music full range to test them in than setting. Since I made them ported they should have better low extension. After looking at one of the comments on my videos though, I don't think I had my setting right on the receiver. Apparently setting the EQ to manual and speakers to Large will still cut them off at 60 Hz. Which would make sense because they are ported to 35 Hz but the measurement dropped off like a rock at 60 Hz. Apparently it needs to be set to "Pure" or as Yamaha has it, "Through". I'll need to go back and do some more testing once I read up on REW and can be a little more educated in what I am doing...
But you are correct, sealed they should cut off around 70Hz per the website. It says that a ported design would give extension down into the 30s, but I never could find the plans for that. So I worked with @eng-399 to come up with a good ported design that fit my room.
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post #127 of 139 Old 04-15-2019, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by blister64 View Post
I will be setting it up like the provided picture. The little "shelf" areas in the middle will increase the internal volume for the 24s and give a stand for the center to sit on. The top of the center should be the same height as the top of the sub boxes if I can use a tape measure correctly... lol. 2 birds 1 stone sort of deal. That's the plan anyways.



I listened to the music full range to test them in than setting. Since I made them ported they should have better low extension. After looking at one of the comments on my videos though, I don't think I had my setting right on the receiver. Apparently setting the EQ to manual and speakers to Large will still cut them off at 60 Hz. Which would make sense because they are ported to 35 Hz but the measurement dropped off like a rock at 60 Hz. Apparently it needs to be set to "Pure" or as Yamaha has it, "Through". I'll need to go back and do some more testing once I read up on REW and can be a little more educated in what I am doing...
But you are correct, sealed they should cut off around 70Hz per the website. It says that a ported design would give extension down into the 30s, but I never could find the plans for that. So I worked with @eng-399 to come up with a good ported design that fit my room.


If i remember correctly you said you was going with 120 screen if so you wouldn't need to design your subs to hold your center just get this stand like i have from IKEA...That's also with my ceiling being 8ft high.


https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20105341/


It only 14 inches high & goes great under my screen.

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post #128 of 139 Old 04-15-2019, 04:18 AM
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Yep your boxes are tuned low like your saying to get full range set your avr for your mains to large then select what ever crossover point you want your subs to take over which would be either 60 or 80hz. The only way to know what your best response will be is to run a sweep on them via rew and a mic. If they dropped off early it could be your room. If you have the Dayton Audio datsv2 you can test your towers to see exactly what tune they came in at exactly. Another way would be to have them outside in the right setting and take a close mic sweep of them to what it’s doing.
My towers are set this way and they dig pretty low. I like having them do double duty with bass and playing full range. If anyone needs help or wants to see how the 1299’s look via winisd I can post the chart.
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post #129 of 139 Old 04-15-2019, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blister64 View Post
I will be setting it up like the provided picture. The little "shelf" areas in the middle will increase the internal volume for the 24s and give a stand for the center to sit on. The top of the center should be the same height as the top of the sub boxes if I can use a tape measure correctly... lol. 2 birds 1 stone sort of deal. That's the plan anyways.
I see. Great use of space and it should look quite nice. Is the third 24 going nearfield?
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post #130 of 139 Old 04-15-2019, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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If i remember correctly you said you was going with 120 screen if so you wouldn't need to design your subs to hold your center just get this stand like i have from IKEA...That's also with my ceiling being 8ft high.
Yea it is about 125", but the main reason I am looking to do that is to add some volume to the sub boxes. Space is a little tight as I don't want to build the boxes too high or deep, so figured I would use up the space under the center channel. I need to measure some things now that the 1299s are complete, but that's the plan so far.
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Yep your boxes are tuned low like your saying to get full range set your avr for your mains to large then select what ever crossover point you want your subs to take over which would be either 60 or 80hz. The only way to know what your best response will be is to run a sweep on them via rew and a mic. If they dropped off early it could be your room. If you have the Dayton Audio datsv2 you can test your towers to see exactly what tune they came in at exactly. Another way would be to have them outside in the right setting and take a close mic sweep of them to what it’s doing.
My towers are set this way and they dig pretty low. I like having them do double duty with bass and playing full range. If anyone needs help or wants to see how the 1299’s look via winisd I can post the chart.
I'll have to see if I can take a test outside at some point... That'll take some work, but maybe one of these days.


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I see. Great use of space and it should look quite nice. Is the third 24 going nearfield?
It is going in the back corner under the left surround. That is where my UM15 is now. I didn't really show the sub in the last video since it was not the focus, but you can get a pretty good idea of placement when I pan across the room. So not nearfield, but closefield? lol

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post #131 of 139 Old 04-15-2019, 08:50 PM
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It is going in the back corner under the left surround. That is where my UM15 is now. I didn't really show the sub in the last video since it was not the focus, but you can get a pretty good idea of placement when I pan across the room. So not nearfield, but closefield? lol
Now there are going to be tons of threads about which subs are the best for closefield I'm looking forward to the sub builds. I think you might undue some of that nice work you did on that basement remodel with the 24's though.
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post #132 of 139 Old 04-15-2019, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Now there are going to be tons of threads about which subs are the best for closefield I'm looking forward to the sub builds. I think you might undue some of that nice work you did on that basement remodel with the 24's though.
Lol new trend. Clearfield I'm hoping my sheetrock guys actually glued the ceiling like I asked them to...

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post #133 of 139 Old 04-25-2019, 01:19 AM - Thread Starter
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So possibly going to be getting an Emotive XPA-DR3 to demo and review. 450w x 3 channels @ 8 ohms. You know, since these 1299s need a lot of power to make any noise.


Holy headroom and dynamics Batman!

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post #134 of 139 Old 04-27-2019, 09:12 AM
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What about getting some xbs 10kq to run the mains and maybe surrounds. You do not need to use all the power but i would hate to run out. And they are a lot cheaper. BTH does it this way and seems to have great results. That is what i am considering myself when the time comes.
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post #135 of 139 Old 04-27-2019, 12:05 PM
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DIYSG 1299/Volt 10 Build (1299 TMWW)

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Originally Posted by blister64 View Post
So possibly going to be getting an Emotive XPA-DR3 to demo and review. 450w x 3 channels @ 8 ohms. You know, since these 1299s need a lot of power to make any noise.


Holy headroom and dynamics Batman!


Just a suggestion, I run the QSC GX5 and 7, and they are great amps for a great price. They also have RCA unbalanced inputs if thats what youre running. Again just a suggestion, Im very vary happy with their performance. They run my LCR LF section (I use the 7 now although the 5 did fine when I had them up front, they run my Volt8 surrounds now). They are also very very efficient.


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post #136 of 139 Old 04-27-2019, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry I should rephrase that. Emotiva may be sending me an amp to review and to test speakers with and feature it in videos. I won't have to purchase it, but will most likely have to send it back after a period of time unless I decide to purchase. Will be interesting to see these (and other speakers) on a lot of power

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post #137 of 139 Old 05-08-2019, 07:13 AM
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Lol new trend. Clearfield I'm hoping my sheetrock guys actually glued the ceiling like I asked them to...
I'm betting you'll find that out right quick...... among a few other things.
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post #138 of 139 Old 05-08-2019, 08:40 AM
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Yea I'm at the point to where I'll be setting either a towel or some rubber feet on things if I need to stack them at all. I'm planning on my center channel resting on my sub cabinets, so at least I learned that lesson now... Great stuff so far, seems very durable, but likes to stick to itself.
I used felt furniture pads. Worked great to isolate for vibration and to keep the boxes from sticking together. The lesson I learned was stick the pads to the underside of the top speaker, not the top of the bottom speaker. The Duratex grabs that pad adhesive pretty well and when you decide to remove the pads it leaves a layer behind which is a pain to get off. If its left on the bottom of the top speaker who cares.
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post #139 of 139 Old 06-27-2019, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I feel like REW is just something you really need to do and practice to get the hang of. Reading only goes so far. Here is my attempt at taking proper measurements and going over a few things. I just made acoustic panels for the room and need to go back and do measurements again to see how they affected things. Hopefully I make sense in the video lol... Here's the link to download all of the measurements if anyone would like to take a look.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/62864w6sgh...ents.mdat?dl=0



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