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post #961 of 976 Old 11-01-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
The tuning is a little different. The v1 has the advantage with a larger diaphragm area down low and the box has a little bit lower tuning on the front chamber. The Mini is 14.2 cuft vs the v1 at 21.25 cuft, that has to be taken into account. I made sure the Mini could really hit hard up around 100Hz, max chest slam factor. This is the 1w1m SAN 214.50 vs the SAN 184.03.



Thx for the comparison. I think I'm going to stick with V1. Just love it too much :-) Though Mini will fit in very nicely in the room. My seats back are 47" away from back wall and with 30" deep V1 and some space b/w it and back wall, there is 14" left to walk thru. Every inch counts.

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I made sure the Mini could really hit hard up around 100Hz, max chest slam factor
Interesting... Some say 30-50Hz.
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post #962 of 976 Old 11-01-2019, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Thx for the comparison. I think I'm going to stick with V1. Just love it too much :-) Though Mini will fit in very nicely in the room. My seats back are 47" away from back wall and with 30" deep V1 and some space b/w it and back wall, there is 14" left to walk thru. Every inch counts.


Interesting... Some say 30-50Hz.

Well having played around with my crossover point, there is a lot there in the upper mid bass. I would get the best TR when running the L/R at 100Hz for a crossover, but it really ate into the power budget for the sub, so I had to back it down to 80Hz. The Mini Devs should have enough head room that is not a problem Now as far as cheap cone area is concerned, the SAF 184.03 is a great deal, even when the super sale was happening the price advantage was for the 184.03. If you can pick between four Minis and two v1s, I would lean towards the Minis, but that is just me
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post #963 of 976 Old 11-01-2019, 02:06 PM
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[snip] I"m thinking of building two more with front glass panel and sell my existing ones. I agree with others that these 21" drivers look so amazing and hiding them is almost a sin
.
@harrisu


You DON'T have to sell them.... drill a whole in the top/front {when laying on their back} and use a flush trim bit to cut the front panel off... add the support ledge....then replace with Lexan.... yes it's a PITA but you won't have to start from scratch either..


Just a thought... hopefully @Red Five will chime in on this....


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post #964 of 976 Old 11-01-2019, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
Well having played around with my crossover point, there is a lot there in the upper mid bass. I would get the best TR when running the L/R at 100Hz for a crossover, but it really ate into the power budget for the sub, so I had to back it down to 80Hz. The Mini Devs should have enough head room that is not a problem Now as far as cheap cone area is concerned, the SAF 184.03 is a great deal, even when the super sale was happening the price advantage was for the 184.03. If you can pick between four Minis and two v1s, I would lean towards the Minis, but that is just me

You know what, I have spent a lot of time making 100Hz work for me the way I want. The biggest plus with 100Hz is that it just does something else to the body feeling. I have tried 80Hz and also 100Hz and I like 100Hz better. But its very tricky. There is a limit to how hot I run the subs. If I run 100Hz too hot, I end up getting too much TR and also the bass doesn't sound as yummy to me. For example, currently, I'm running 7.5dB hot (will post FR) + BOSS and the combo does wonders. Also having subs only 45" away from MLP is most likely playing a big part.

4 Mini vs 2 V1, yeah I agree 4 Mini is the way to go. But in my case, my room doesn't provide good FR. If it did, yes I'd go for 4 Mini. That would also give me extra 5" space in the back and lower height will allow me to put the acoustic panel right above it. But since FR sucks on the front of room, I stick with back of room.

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@harrisu



You DON'T have to sell them.... drill a whole in the top/front {when laying on their back} and use a flush trim bit to cut the front panel off... add the support ledge....then replace with Lexan.... yes it's a PITA but you won't have to start from scratch either..


Just a thought... hopefully @Red Five will chime in on this....


Juju
I did think of that but its a double edge sword approach. If it works, Yes I don't have to worry about selling my sub(s). But if it doesn't work, I can't even sell the sub anymore cause its gone

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post #965 of 976 Old 11-01-2019, 03:21 PM
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[snip]

But if it doesn't work, I can't even sell the sub anymore cause its gone

This IS true.... what part of it would not work? The front chamber would gain 3/4 inch worth of volume because the Lexan would not be recessed like Chris' build. Maybe I'm wrong but, I don't see that 3/4 inch throwing the design out of wack.....


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post #966 of 976 Old 11-01-2019, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I think it would be a straight forward process. The front panel would get cut between the front rails and cabinet boundaries. A good jigsaw can pull off cutting away the front panel. The rails and cabinet edges would have an extra 3/4 of material. The rails would need to be trimmed down to the desired height for the plexiglass. The flanges would be added to the cabinet boundaries for the new clear panel to rest on. If screws were used for holding the front panel to the front chamber rails that could complicate things. Otherwise it is just patience, cutting and sanding. The added cross sectional area would only increase the sensitivity of the resonator.
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post #967 of 976 Old 11-03-2019, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
@a77cj7 , what have you done mannnnn. I just built 2 Dev V1. After seeing what you did, I am soooo loving it that I"m thinking of building two more with front glass panel and sell my existing ones. I agree with others that these 21" drivers look so amazing and hiding them is almost a sin



You don't have a build thread on it yet correct? I'd suggest that you put this all together in a thread or you'll be getting tons of posts asking you questions repeatedly. You can't blame us. You did a hell of a job putting them together



Now, if I do go to that route, do I need to be very good good at wood work? I did build two decent boxes but having a glass on the front most likely requires a very clean approach and even a very minor issue will be visible thru the glass.

Thanks.

Looks like it’s been mostly covered by others.

If you think your existing boxes are clean enough inside, I think modifying would be way easier than starting over.
I’d use a router to remove panel thickness from on top of the horn ribs. Freehand, 1/2 or 3/4 bit would work well. 1/4in depth per pass. Then rough trim the rest with a jigsaw, and use a flush trim in the router for perfection.
You’d still have to make and glue in the window supports.

As for skill to make it look good, it always helps
The mini’s were my first complete build though, and it wasn’t too bad. Before them, I had only built a pair of flatpacks, and modded a flatpack to ported.
Wood is generally forgiving. As long as you get everything glued up straight and square, bondo and sanding can fix most errors.

Chris


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post #968 of 976 Old 11-04-2019, 02:17 AM
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Thanks guys.

I need to get some sleep, so I’️m not firing it up tonight. It’️s ready to go though


I don’️t have to work tomorrow, so I’️ll get it running in the morning.
I’️ll start with a close mic sweep.

Chris


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I showed my wife this and she said "So what is he going to put on those shelves?" Hahaha! The innocence. Gotta love it!

Nicest/toughest looking build I've seen lately mate nice work.
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post #969 of 976 Old 11-04-2019, 04:50 AM
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I showed my wife this and she said "So what is he going to put on those shelves?" Hahaha! The innocence. Gotta love it!

Nicest/toughest looking build I've seen lately mate nice work.

A few of my friends have also commented that they look like shelves. Might be a little rough on the knickknacks though.

Thanks. I’m really happy with how it turned out.

Chris


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post #970 of 976 Old 11-04-2019, 10:18 AM
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A few of my friends have also commented that they look like shelves. Might be a little rough on the knickknacks though.

Thanks. I’m really happy with how it turned out.

Chris


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Some PL Premium on the bottom of them outta keep em in check...

Maybe put some bobble heads in there lol.........
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post #971 of 976 Old 11-04-2019, 12:03 PM
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Some PL Premium on the bottom of them outta keep em in check...



Maybe put some bobble heads in there lol.........


Lol, the visual is funny enough that I’m gonna have to find some and try it. I think I’ll use temporary attachment methods though.

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post #972 of 976 Old 11-05-2019, 07:31 PM
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Something of interest...... Maybe

Hey Guys;
I ran across this in my travels..... maybe this could be useful..... I have used the in the past..... most are of good quality and straight. They also have other sizes..... these are in the garden dept.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Greenes-...N25U/204721125


Just a thought...


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post #973 of 976 Old 11-08-2019, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I started playing with sims, revisiting a full range micro for the WAF 154.00. The box would have to get bigger vs the MBM version. I am hoping for 36 tall x 20 wide x 24 deep, maybe a little less if I am lucky. This is pushing 800 watts of power into it with a 3rd order 19Hz HPF. My thought is Devastator meets living room friendly form factor.



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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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post #974 of 976 Old 11-20-2019, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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A larger version of the Mini for 21"s (or 18"s) has been added to the Index https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...l#post58849754
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Stormbreaker | WI HT Meet Thread | The Devastator Index | Mini Devastator Build
You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
7.1.4 | A3070 | XLS 1502 | 3000DSP | 2x Aphex 124A | 2x Bic EV15 | 7x Bic FH6 LCR | 2x Bic FH65-B | Epson 5010e | 120" DIY AT Screen | 2x Mini Devastators

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post #975 of 976 Old 11-20-2019, 08:21 PM
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Hey, for the rear chamber upper brace and rear chamber lower brace does it matter how far apart they have to be from each other?
Also what screws should one use on the 2x4s bracing to help with the PL3 because it hard to clamp them?

Thanks,
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post #976 of 976 Old 11-20-2019, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
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Hey, for the rear chamber upper brace and rear chamber lower brace does it matter how far apart they have to be from each other?

Also what screws should one use on the 2x4s bracing to help with the PL3 because it hard to clamp them?



Thanks,

Femi


On the upper ones, make sure you have clearance for the driver flange.

On the lower ones, just use even spacing.

I just clamped and used brads, but a pocket hole jig and screws would work well.

Chris
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