Let's start this post off with a few pics of the finished cab before you read through my boring backstory.. :-)
There is the black beauty, fully wrapped in brushed steel vinyl:
TV has to be hung higher, as the center doesn't fit anymore. My sideboard was smaller... That's a 55" TV btw (I wish it was 70 thou)
So a few years ago, as I've been looking for a better amp to replace my TSA-1400 which was being heavily abused on two 18" subs, I stumbled upon AVS via @popalock
's youtube channel and found @notnyt
about the Lab clones, which, after alot of reading, I found to be worth the gamble to purchase. I actually purchased an FP-13000 because the 14k is just two additional capacitors, which made a difference of almost 100 bucks, which I didn't find to be worth the extra coin.
After some testing I installed different fans (ebmPapst plus resistors) which got the amp down to 40db in idle, plus I also fitted it with a powercon plug.
I've been using that amp for live application for quite some time until I just recently got two ARCS wide, which my TSA-1400 couldn't handle anymore.
Looking for a all-in-one solution (4ch amp with dsp) with the LA8 currently being out of my pricerange, I got a Sanway DP10Q.
The DP10Q is the same as an FP10Q internally, just with the addition of the dsp (and the touch screen panel at the front, fancy).
The dsp isn't great but it does the trick and fulfills my needs of having a EQ and a limiter per channel. I copied the settings from an original LA8 as good as I could and it works like a charm with my ARCS now, with my only complaint being the high noise floor and the broken visual representation of the EQ, which is just cosmetics.
So, long story short: I have an obsolete FP-13000 and no subs to use it with - cardinal sin!
Searching for something to do over the winter holidays, I ended up spending lots of time reading through DIY threads and checking out subs over at data-bass.com. The time it took for me to go from "I might get a second sub for my HT" (which would've been a second Klipsch R-12SW) to "I want to destroy the building" was about 2 days.
Looking through the forums on what DIY subs have proven to be great (also in value for their money and in efficiency), I came across the Gjallarhorn and the Othorn. The Ghorn was completely out of the question, due to its size and the availability of the lms ultras.
Building two Othorns would be the plan, until I found the SKHorn. The SKHorn would fit my space much better than even a single Othorn, so after doing some more research it became quite clear that this was the perfect sub to replace the sideboard underneath my TV, just like @dsl1
set his up; hell, I almost have the same TV even!
Heading over to @Ricci
's data-bass, downloading the files, I started to build the cab in Inventor and made plans with metric units.
I spread the parts across 3 pieces of the standard 2,5m x 1,25m 18mm plywood sheets and a single 2x1m 12mm sheet we have here.
One day later, I had bought all the wood, but it was so late in the evening already, that I couldn't get any more work done - bummer!
Will keep posting more pics as I'm progressing! Also please ignore all the dirt, my dad tends to leave a mess whenever he's working on anything...
I'll post some pics of the recent progress periodically. Can't work on it through Christmas or the family will kill me...
I cut all the sheets to size. Big thanks to my dad for helping me yield these giant sheets of plywood.
He thought the project was ridiculous but liked it.
That table saw is a precision beast, I was able to get all dimensions within a tenth of a millimeter.
So now, after I found out what the actual names of the tools I've been using are, I'm able to write about it..
In German, plunge routers, moulders and (metal) milling machines are all basically unified under a sinle term, which can make communication a little confusing at times.
The hatches are done with the moulder. I cut a test piece and set it up to remove 18.5x9.5mm of the wood. Easy work with the right tooling.
I rounded the edges with sandpaper (did a horrible job on that lol).
I then used the plunge router for the backplate, using a 8mm cutter to cut through and a 20mm cutter for the rest.
T-Nuts installed and hey presto, it fits! They are even interchangeable!
Some more routing to get perfect holes into the baffles:
Most smaller parts are done. Two parts left.
All parts cut!
First step of the dry assembly (this has to be perfect):
And added the back panel:
Got a flat cable to run it through the top, this it the cleanest solution I could come up with:
Looking good so far, everything fits perfectly and it's very sturdy!
Made some 1/3 and 1/2 spacers to help with the assembly. They surely come in handy.
Grandma asked what kind of furniture this is going to be...
Well well well... what do we have here..!
Some pics of the inside:
Waiting for the drivers to arrive so I can glue everything together. Gonna be finished in vinyl wrap (black brushed steel).
The cab is exactly 80kg (175lbs) as it is right now. Heavier than I am!
Took everything apart and started glueing everything into place. I left the top, front and side panels out to (spray) paint all visible surfaces on the inside.
I then painted the panels and put everything together.
Final step of the cab assembly:
I'm not a bodybuilder but I have some heavy equipment, which came in handy here since clamping doesn't really work.
Installing the drivers to see if everything fits. The drivers didn't, I had to use a chisel to remove a small amount of wood, but now they do fit nicely.
Guess I have an SKHorn now!
I broke one T-nut which I had to replace. I fully understand why you guys prefer hex inserts!
Vinyl wrapping in 3.. 2.. 1.. done!
The entire cab is wrapped in a single sheet of vinyl, just the back panel is separate. I wanted the perfect clean look, yet I damaged multiple edges already, sad times!
A little dusty but a clean vinyl job.
Time to install the drivers and line the inside:
The back panel didn't end up super clean but who will ever see that..
Aaand my 55" TV looks super tiny, time to get something 70"+ soon. Soon as in mico LED panel "soon". And maybe 4k120, I also use it for gaming.
Adding the portblocks here
(post couldn't fit any more images). Doing so lowered the tuning to ~17Hz (more or less flat down to 9Hz in the room but I rolled it off from 15Hz due to distortion). It's good for now, but I'll likely go back to 2 ports per side. Got a BOSS platform for TR now, because I'm sitting on a stone floor.
I'm planning to build more of these for (distant) future PA application. I'm playing with the thought of building 9 more cabs, of which 1 will go into the theater and 8 will be used for live shows. I don't have a CnC yet, so I'll probably simplify the bracing a little and only outfit 2 cabs with drivers. I can get a driver for ~350€ (400$) if I'm lucky, but we don't have the need for so much woofage just yet.