Building my theater audio setup: B52-18s and Cinema-10s - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 196 Old 04-06-2019, 10:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I screwed up the design of the cabinet and had visible ends of the panels showing. I made some changes and used leftover material to make a second "top" panel.










Double top panel!
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post #62 of 196 Old 04-06-2019, 10:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished painting the baffles and did a rough fit of the driver.





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post #63 of 196 Old 04-06-2019, 10:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I started attaching the legs.








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post #64 of 196 Old 04-07-2019, 04:59 AM
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Nice work! I’m getting excited to see them done. I can imagine you are too. And hey, mistakes happen. My last sub build was the first of a dozen where I didn’t get the cutlist wrong in some way or another. And just last night, I found a glob if duratex right on the top panel of my 893 center channel speaker. I had to sand it off and recoat the veneer. Oh well, as long as you don’t get frustrated you’ll always get the project done! Keep up the good work.
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post #65 of 196 Old 04-09-2019, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I got all of the legs on, and did the trim. Started wood-filling all the holes.














And don't worry - I still plan on making faux-doors for the sides.
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post #66 of 196 Old 04-09-2019, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Had two packages arrive in the mail the other day.... wonder what's in this box?




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post #67 of 196 Old 04-10-2019, 03:29 AM
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I love this project. You’ll love this setup. I’m so happy you’ll be dealing with the packaging flying all around from unwrapping those cinema 10’s!
I still find the foam around my yard from blowing out of the garbage. Lol
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post #68 of 196 Old 04-10-2019, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
I love this project. You’ll love this setup. I’m so happy you’ll be dealing with the packaging flying all around from unwrapping those cinema 10’s!
I still find the foam around my yard from blowing out of the garbage. Lol


Erich comes out and picks up the foam chips for you I hear, just ask him or add it to the order notes haha!
@EricH


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post #69 of 196 Old 04-10-2019, 12:15 PM
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CSK, those end tables came out nice!

FOHT, I hope you post your TH experiment!

Jk7.2, your HT is AWESOME!
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post #70 of 196 Old 04-25-2019, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, so thanks to Jk for reminding me, here's a much overdue update:


1. I got both cabinets sanded down including the wood filler spots and ready for stain.
2. I flush-mounted the speakon terminals and got them wired.
3. I got the Cinema10s completely unpacked and checked them over.







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post #71 of 196 Old 04-25-2019, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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A 15/16" hole and a 1-1/2" recessed hole work great for flush mounting speakon terminals.



It's funny to be building cabinets and paying so much more attention to detail, such as painting the recessed hole for the terminals. The attention to detail pays off when you see the finished product.



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post #72 of 196 Old 04-25-2019, 06:41 PM
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Why didn't you use a router with an appropriate bit to get a recess with the proper matching shape matching the connector instead of that ?
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post #73 of 196 Old 04-25-2019, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
A 15/16" hole and a 1-1/2" recessed hole work great for flush mounting speakon terminals.



It's funny to be building cabinets and paying so much more attention to detail, such as painting the recessed hole for the terminals. The attention to detail pays off when you see the finished product.
Nice!

For future builds you may want to look into the NL4MPR. They seal up nicely without using caulk/weather stripping, and look a bit more finished IMHO: https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-054
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post #74 of 196 Old 04-25-2019, 10:14 PM
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[quote=Craig S King;57761986Got the ports finished:

[/quote]


Would you mind sharing your port dimensions? I'm building a similar ported setup with B-52's
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post #75 of 196 Old 04-26-2019, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Why didn't you use a router with an appropriate bit to get a recess with the proper matching shape matching the connector instead of that ?

I was going for more of an abstract, post-modern hypotenuse coefficient look on the terminals. Consequently, the round recessed holes seemed to meet my requirements.



Plus, it's on the baffle surface which faces the floor and will never be seen.










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Nice!

For future builds you may want to look into the NL4MPR. They seal up nicely without using caulk/weather stripping, and look a bit more finished IMHO: https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-054

I looked at those terminals, but went with the ones that didn't require spade terminal connections. I got the terminals that have the set-screw that holds the wires in place.








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Would you mind sharing your port dimensions? I'm building a similar ported setup with B-52's

I recall the cabinets being roughly 5.5cu/ft with a 25.5hz tune. The internal dimensions of the port are 1.75" x 20" with two port rails both .75" thick. The port is 21" long.



Are you friends with Tarpenator? He was telling me about someone building a similar setup.






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CSK, those end tables came out nice!

Thank you - I'm excited for them to be done. I'm hopeful I can finish them this weekend actually.
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post #76 of 196 Old 04-26-2019, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Cinema10 porn:









Pretty impressed with the precision of the CNC baffles.







Some of the components laid out:









I showed Diesel the woofer for the Cinema10 and his response was, "Where's the rest of it?"


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Not enough WOOFer!

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post #78 of 196 Old 04-30-2019, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some more work done over the weekend. And actually, the subwoofer cabinets are pretty much done now. I'm gearing up to get the Cinema10s started soon.




I tried something new and went with the Minwax Polyshades, which is stain and polyurethane in one. Still needs at least two coats.





One coat:




Second coat really darkened it up and started to bring glossier finish:




One coat vs. second coat:









Looking back at it, I'm not sure I would do the polyshades again. I'm not sure if I like the appearance of the stain portion of it. It was very difficult to apply it evenly and not leave crazy amounts of brush marks. The second coat definitely was the savior, but obviously darkened it up a lot. I did like NOT having to go back and apply polyurethane one side at a time. For anyone who has applied poly, if you do it to a vertical surface, it'll end up running before it dries. Consequently you have to apply it horizontally, and in my case that would've meant doing one side at a time and allowing drying time in between.







And yes, to the keen observer, you'll notice I did not add the faux-doors onto the cabinets. I still think they would've looked nice and added to the overall appearance, but truthfully, I was getting tired of working on these things and just wanted to be done with them and get them home to start using.
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post #79 of 196 Old 04-30-2019, 07:34 PM
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Looking back at it, I'm not sure I would do the polyshades again. I'm not sure if I like the appearance of the stain portion of it. It was very difficult to apply it evenly and not leave crazy amounts of brush marks. The second coat definitely was the savior, but obviously darkened it up a lot. I did like NOT having to go back and apply polyurethane one side at a time.
Looks good Craig!

As you noted, I don't think the Polyshades line is the way to go. I used it once when it came out years ago, didn't care for it. You can't get the color profile you want like you can with careful applications of stain, and going over it the second time did not give me the results I was looking for.

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For anyone who has applied poly, if you do it to a vertical surface, it'll end up running before it dries. Consequently you have to apply it horizontally, and in my case that would've meant doing one side at a time and allowing drying time in between.
I use a foam brush and make sure I apply very thin coats, and it won't run on you. Next builds I will be going with Waterlox after seeing the finish on Jared's 893s, if I can get the hang of it I will probably never go back to poly (and I've relied on Minwax poly for at least the past 3 decades, Jared's finish looked that good).
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post #80 of 196 Old 05-01-2019, 03:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks good Craig!

As you noted, I don't think the Polyshades line is the way to go. I used it once when it came out years ago, didn't care for it. You can't get the color profile you want like you can with careful applications of stain, and going over it the second time did not give me the results I was looking for.



I use a foam brush and make sure I apply very thin coats, and it won't run on you. Next builds I will be going with Waterlox after seeing the finish on Jared's 893s, if I can get the hang of it I will probably never go back to poly (and I've relied on Minwax poly for at least the past 3 decades, Jared's finish looked that good).



Thanks, yeah, the first coat of the polyshades was actually closer to the actual color that I wanted. But as mentioned, a second coat is required. And once you apply a second coat, the appearance almost looks like paint. Very little wood grain could be seen. And I used a light colored wood to begin with. I can't imagine using a darker color polyshade.



As for the foam roller, I guess I never thought about trying that for applying polyurethane. I might try that when staining and polyurethaning the Cinema10s. I wanted to try the Waterlox as well, after seeing Jk's results with it, but couldn't find it at my local Lowes. So for now, the cabinets will obviously stay Polyshaded, and I'll go back to regular Minwax stain for the Cinema10s with a polyurethane finish.
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post #81 of 196 Old 05-01-2019, 04:19 AM
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Building my theater audio setup: B52-18s and Cinema-10s

Look for waterlox at you local professional woodworking shop. I got mine from WoodCraft. It’s 50 bucks for a quart, but I just love this stuff. I did a test panel with ebony stain, covered with waterlox and I really like the look. It shows less grain for sure, but same satin finish, and its almost black in the shadows. In direct lighting, it shows up deep brown. I’m thinking about using that finish process on my htm build. We’ll see.
Great progress on these! I like the look. Even without doors, they just look like furniture. What a great way hide subs.
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post #82 of 196 Old 05-01-2019, 04:51 AM
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As for the foam roller, I guess I never thought about trying that for applying polyurethane.
Just to clarify, I use foam brushes, not rollers. Rollers will produces (many more) bubbles.


ETA: Rockler carries Waterlox: https://www.rockler.com/waterlox-ori...n-finish-quart. I happen to have one local to me.
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post #83 of 196 Old 05-01-2019, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
Look for waterlox at you local professional woodworking shop. I got mine from WoodCraft. It’s 50 bucks for a quart, but I just love this stuff. I did a test panel with ebony stain, covered with waterlox and I really like the look. It shows less grain for sure, but same satin finish, and its almost black in the shadows. In direct lighting, it shows up deep brown. I’m thinking about using that finish process on my htm build. We’ll see.
Great progress on these! I like the look. Even without doors, they just look like furniture. What a great way hide subs.

Thank you - Overall I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. They are done now and definitely have the "furniture" look I was hoping for.











Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Just to clarify, I use foam brushes, not rollers. Rollers will produces (many more) bubbles.


ETA: Rockler carries Waterlox: https://www.rockler.com/waterlox-ori...n-finish-quart. I happen to have one local to me.



I see now, I misread. I'll have to look into using foam brushes. I think I have some of those around here. Thanks for the tip.
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post #84 of 196 Old 05-01-2019, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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After wet sanding with some 800grit, another coat of polyshade, then wetsanding again, and then a final coat of polyurethane on the top surface, they are finally done. I was pretty happy with the final finish.














I've definitely never put this much time into the finish of something I've built, whether it was an actual wooden project or a subwoofer cabinet. I was very happy with the smoothness of the top surface. The multiple coats of finish with 800grit wetsanding in between definitely paid off. I'm now in the mindset of "I hope nobody scratches the surface of my cabinets."
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post #85 of 196 Old 05-02-2019, 10:11 PM
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VERY nice!

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post #86 of 196 Old 05-04-2019, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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VERY nice!



Thank you. Overall, I'm happy with how they turned out. Definitely different than I had originally imagined, but I think I like them more now.





In other news, I got one of them in place today.




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post #87 of 196 Old 05-04-2019, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I wired up and installed the B52s and got them into place. I'm happy with how they turned out as end tables.



And it's funny, being that they are actual wood tops and knowing all the time and effort I put into them, I'm much more cautious with them. Like... make sure you use a coaster under your drink!












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post #88 of 196 Old 05-04-2019, 12:16 PM
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Great job!!! How do they perform?

They look fantastic.


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Dang lookin good! Have you had a listen yet?
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post #90 of 196 Old 05-05-2019, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Great job!!! How do they perform?

They look fantastic.

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Thank you. Now that they are both home and in place, I'm growing more happy with how they turned out appearance wise. I'm looking forward to having some friends over and see if they notice them and/or what they think of them. And then the more obvious thing, I'm curious if they'll figure out where the bass is coming from.


EDIT: Quick performance review: very happy. A better review coming in the next few days hopefully.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
Dang lookin good! Have you had a listen yet?

As far as listening and performance, I hooked both of them up to my NX3000DSP and started playing with them. I was majorly impressed with the tactile feel between feeling the floor shake and my sofa shaking. When sitting on my sofa, the bass is pretty impressive. Even with both volume knobs at only 11 o'clock, they sound like I need to worry about pictures falling off the walls and my neighbors calling the police. Interestingly though, they don't have the mid-bass punch I thought they would have.... at least yet. I'm sure I need to adjust the DSP before making any judgements. However for some classic bass music on youtube, they sound group. The club scene from John Wick 2, not much bass.



However, my NX3000 is still set for a pair of 31hz VBSSs on one channel, and a mini-marty on the other channel. So I need to tweak the DSP for these B52s at 25hz. The other part of is, since I only have one NX3000DSP so far, I can't power my subs upstairs for my audio setup. Once I'm closer to finishing the Cinema10s, I'll get an AVR and another NX3000DSP.
Jk7.2 and grantpab like this.

Last edited by Craig S King; 05-05-2019 at 08:21 PM.
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