Building my theater audio setup: B52-18s and Cinema-10s - Page 4 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 196 Old 05-05-2019, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Both in my living now and powered. They are positioned at both ends of my sofa.


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post #92 of 196 Old 05-05-2019, 08:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Started on the Cinema10 towers this weekend too. Got the MDF dust flying....














Note, those are scrap pieces of MDF I used as spacers to keep the side panels square to the back panel. Not permanent.





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post #93 of 196 Old 05-06-2019, 11:47 AM
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Those sub cabs look amazing!! Nice work.

Can’t wait to see how your 10s turn out.

Another vote for Waterlox. I used it on a walnut countertop I built for our bathroom. Amazing stuff.


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post #94 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 04:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rowan611 View Post
Those sub cabs look amazing!! Nice work.

Can’t wait to see how your 10s turn out.

Another vote for Waterlox. I used it on a walnut countertop I built for our bathroom. Amazing stuff.


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Thanks Rowan. The sub cabinets were definitely a new direction for me as far as building something that was meant to be functional, but also be visually aesthetic to everyone, not just audio enthusiasts. And even though I scrapped the faux-doors on it, I'm still very happy with how they turned out.



The cinema towers are pretty exciting for me too since they are my DIY Sound Group kit to build, but also since I'm turning them into towers. I'll get to try my hand at veneering with them. And similar to the subwoofer cabinets, the Cinema Towers will also be built to look nice, not just sound good.






Edit> I did realize my first goof up with the Cinema Towers... the DIYSG specs say the cabinets should be 12.5" x 32" x 13 overall outside dimensions. I didn't think about the 1" thick front baffle that is included. So really, the side panels should've only been 12" wide. I made them 13". So there will be additional volume inside the cabinet.



However, I could probably add some additional bracing to take away some of the extra volume. Do you guys think it'll matter much?

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post #95 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 06:02 AM
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Both in my living now and powered. They are positioned at both ends of my sofa.


Those cabinets are amazing!!! If they sound half as good as they look, then you are winning big time
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post #96 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 06:30 AM
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"Do you guys think it'll matter much? "
It will make no differance.
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post #97 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 07:05 AM
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Nice looking build! I also don't think the volume will matter much. A little bigger is definitely better than a little smaller.

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post #98 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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"Do you guys think it'll matter much? "
It will make no differance.
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Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
Nice looking build! I also don't think the volume will matter much. A little bigger is definitely better than a little smaller.

I did the math and the intended outside volume would be 5200cu/in. With my design, it’s 5600cu/in. So 400cu/in or a little less than .25cu/ft in extra volume. That extra volume won’t affect it?
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post #99 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 09:30 AM
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I did the math and the intended outside volume would be 5200cu/in. With my design, it’s 5600cu/in. So 400cu/in or a little less than .25cu/ft in extra volume. That extra volume won’t affect it?

The only affect I can think of is that the port ends will be further from the back. But IIRC the Cinema-10's ports aren't long enough to benefit from that type of loading, so there would be no audible difference. Measurable? Maybe, but barely noticable.
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post #100 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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The only affect I can think of is that the port ends will be further from the back. But IIRC the Cinema-10's ports aren't long enough to benefit from that type of loading, so there would be no audible difference. Measurable? Maybe, but barely noticable.


Thanks for the feedback. I won’t worry about the volume difference. After adding in the braces, it’ll probably offset some of the extra volume anyway.


And speaking of the braces, planning ahead, the DIYSG site recommends two window style braces. Do must guys fit the braces above and below the SEOS wave guide? Like between the compression driver and both 10” woofers? I recall Jk7.2 having 4 braces per cabinet, is that preferred?
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post #101 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 01:51 PM
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These look great Craig! I think you made a good choice going without the faux-doors. How do you think they sound compared to your VBSS subs?
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post #102 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
Thanks for the feedback. I won’t worry about the volume difference. After adding in the braces, it’ll probably offset some of the extra volume anyway.


And speaking of the braces, planning ahead, the DIYSG site recommends two window style braces. Do must guys fit the braces above and below the SEOS wave guide? Like between the compression driver and both 10” woofers? I recall Jk7.2 having 4 braces per cabinet, is that preferred?


I had a brace above and below the waveguide, and one behind both woofers. It made for a nicely dead cabinet. Yours being towers, you might need even more.
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post #103 of 196 Old 05-07-2019, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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These look great Craig! I think you made a good choice going without the faux-doors. How do you think they sound compared to your VBSS subs?

Thanks Grant, and I agree. I'm growing more and more glad I didn't do the doors. As for sound, sadly I haven't gotten an opportunity to really mess with the volume and the DSP settings. My nx3000dsp is still configured for my audio setup. Consequently I've been trying not to pass judgement on the sound quality. I can say that the B52s seem to have much more tactile feel, but that's likely because they are firing into the floor, and resonating into my sofa. So when you're on the sofa, you feel the sofa shake as well as the floor shake under your feet. Even at very low volumes, rap, electronic and bass boosted songs are very loud. It makes me grin, but also think to myself "I probably shouldn't be doing this at 10pm with neighbors next door." However, with regular rock music, I don't notice the punchyness of the subs as I did with the VBSS, but I think that's because I don't have the DSP tuned for general music. And finally, for actual movies, I told myself I wouldn't watch any blu-ray movies until my entire audio setup is finished, including the Cinema Towers, so I could get the full effect at the same time.






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I had a brace above and below the waveguide, and one behind both woofers. It made for a nicely dead cabinet. Yours being towers, you might need even more.

I remember seeing your picture from earlier in the thread. And while I'm a fan of braces in a cabinet, since this cabinet is only 12.5" wide and 14" deep, I'm leaning towards just doing two braces inside the Cinema10 section. There will effectively be a 3rd brace in the lower section in the form of a block of panel to separate the cinema10 section from the lower part of the tower.
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post #104 of 196 Old 05-08-2019, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Playing around the B52s tonight and some settings on the NX3000DSP. I have the two green lights lit for both channels and few times I saw the amber light. Is that bad? Or does that mean I'm pushing full power to the B52s? The B52s are rated for 550/1100 according to Partsexpress.
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post #105 of 196 Old 05-08-2019, 07:48 PM
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Playing around the B52s tonight and some settings on the NX3000DSP. I have the two green lights lit for both channels and few times I saw the amber light. Is that bad? Or does that mean I'm pushing full power to the B52s? The B52s are rated for 550/1100 according to Partsexpress.


Do you have a limiter set? No, hitting the amber isn’t bad. Even hitting the red isn’t bad UNLESS it’s sustained; however occasional trips into the red can be fun. Just, be careful.


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post #106 of 196 Old 05-09-2019, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you have a limiter set? No, hitting the amber isn’t bad. Even hitting the red isn’t bad UNLESS it’s sustained; however occasional trips into the red can be fun. Just, be careful.


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I used the settings posted in the VBSS and Marty threads for an nx3000dsp. With that said, I don’t know if there was a limited set. How do I find out?
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post #107 of 196 Old 05-09-2019, 05:27 AM
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I used the settings posted in the VBSS and Marty threads for an nx3000dsp. With that said, I don’t know if there was a limited set. How do I find out?


If there’s a limiter set it will be highlighted yellow. I’m assuming your using a computer to control the NX. If not, I’m not sure how you know.


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post #108 of 196 Old 05-09-2019, 06:04 AM - Thread Starter
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If there’s a limiter set it will be highlighted yellow. I’m assuming your using a computer to control the NX. If not, I’m not sure how you know.


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At the time that I got my NX amp, the tuning software wasn’t released yet, so I did everything through the front display of the amp.
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post #109 of 196 Old 05-09-2019, 06:05 AM
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At the time that I got my NX amp, the tuning software wasn’t released yet, so I did everything through the front display of the amp.


I highly recommended downloading the software. It makes everything so much easier.


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post #110 of 196 Old 05-10-2019, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I downloaded the DSP software from Behringer. I'll mess around with it this weekend. Are there any good tutorials you guys recommend?
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While I'm trying to figure out how to tune my amp via my computer, I made some more progress on the Cinema Towers.



Top panels and the block-off panels installed.












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post #112 of 196 Old 05-12-2019, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm planning to start doing the crossovers soon...
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post #113 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Crossover update:




I dry-fitted the crossover components and everything fit well. I went ahead and hot glued everything to the board. Afterwards I soldered the connections. Pretty straight forward. I still need to solder leads that'll run to the speakers.

















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post #114 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:10 PM
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Nice job! Two way speaker crossovers are so much easier then three ways. After doing all the xx99 kits, that’s a lot more wires and soldering. Especially with dual woofers and mids!
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post #115 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice job! Two way speaker crossovers are so much easier then three ways. After doing all the xx99 kits, that’s a lot more wires and soldering. Especially with dual woofers and mids!


Thanks. The crossovers were the part of this build I was most apprehensive about. In the end, it went very smoothly.


The next step is figuring out where to mount the crossover. I'm split between mounting it at the bottom of the Cinema10 cabinet part of the tower, or vertically on the back panel. I'm leaning towards the vertical mount as opposed to this:









I know it doesn't matter much. But I'm thinking as far as when I add the foam to the inside panels.
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post #116 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:17 PM
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Building my theater audio setup: B52-18s and Cinema-10s

Ive tried to keep them center in my cabs, so the same length wire can be used to both woofers. And one isn’t unnecessarily long.
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post #117 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Ive tried to keep them center in my cabs, so the same length wire can be used to both woofers. And one isn’t unnecessarily long.



So that brings up a few things:


1. Since the crossover only has 1 set of outputs for the woofers, do I run dual sets of wires from the crossover to both woofers? Or one set of wires to one woofer, then a second set of wires from the first woofer, to the second woofer? Does it matter?


2. Do the woofers get wired in parallel? I don't think I have seen anything mentioning that yet.

3. How close can my foam liner be to the crossover? Do I need to worry about heat off of the crossover melting the foam? Can you put foam over/under the crossover?
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post #118 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:31 PM
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So that brings up a few things:


1. Since the crossover only has 1 set of outputs for the woofers, do I run dual sets of wires from the crossover to both woofers? Or one set of wires to one woofer, then a second set of wires from the first woofer, to the second woofer? Does it matter?


2. Do the woofers get wired in parallel? I don't think I have seen anything mentioning that yet.

3. How close can my foam liner be to the crossover? Do I need to worry about heat off of the crossover melting the foam? Can you put foam over/under the crossover?


All good questions.

1. You could do that either way. I would run two wires from the single contact on the crossover, one to each woofer.

2. Yes. Parallel. I think your woofers are 16 ohm, so parallel makes the speaker as a whole 8 ohms. I think.

3. You can cover the crossover with your stuffing of choice. It’s not gonna heat up and melt anything.
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post #119 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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All good questions.

1. You could do that either way. I would run two wires from the single contact on the crossover, one to each woofer.

2. Yes. Parallel. I think your woofers are 16 ohm, so parallel makes the speaker as a whole 8 ohms. I think.

3. You can cover the crossover with your stuffing of choice. It’s not gonna heat up and melt anything.





1. I will probably try it that way, pending that I can fit two 16awg wires into each contact point on the crossover.



2. How does the compression driver affect the impedance? If the woofers are in parallel and present an 8ohm load, what does the compression driver do?


3. Good to know.



Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully more progress in the next day or two.
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post #120 of 196 Old 05-14-2019, 06:41 PM
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1. I will probably try it that way, pending that I can fit two 16awg wires into each contact point on the crossover.



2. How does the compression driver affect the impedance? If the woofers are in parallel and present an 8ohm load, what does the compression driver do?


3. Good to know.



Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully more progress in the next day or two.


1. Sweet. You can fit them. Just nip a few strands off each if you need to.

2. I have no idea. All the ratings are nominal anyway. Meaning at different fq’s the resistance can be higher or lower. An 8 ohm speaker will drop below 8 ohms at times, and raise above at others. ( I think this statement is at least mostly right)

3. Cool.
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