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post #61 of 81 Old 02-27-2019, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Without the DSP your screwed for a ported box. You have no way of implementing a highpass (which is required for a ported box), so any frequency in a live below your port tune, say EOT, will drive your woofer to mechanical failure.

You WILL require something to implement a highpass (the plate amps have them baked in already for you).


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Okay......I need to just stop fighting it and get a 1000DSP. Assuming Parts Express gives me a full refund, I'm going that route. Seems crazy to spend $120 or $150 for a plate amp without DSP when I can get a iNuke with a ton more power and two channel with DSP for only 50 more. Does the fan swap bring them down to whisper quiet. I'll be seated less than 10 feet away.

Does the DSP allow you to change the EQ from one channel to the next? i.e. Channel A - Ported 12" JBL, Channel B - Sealed 12" JBL
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post #62 of 81 Old 02-27-2019, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapSpeakerGuy View Post
Does the fan swap bring them down to whisper quiet. I'll be seated less than 10 feet away.

Yes. My buddy has a couple 3k’s and I couldn’t hear from about 8 feet away.

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Originally Posted by CheapSpeakerGuy View Post
Does the DSP allow you to change the EQ from one channel to the next? i.e. Channel A - Ported 12" JBL, Channel B - Sealed 12" JBL

Yes.




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post #63 of 81 Old 02-28-2019, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Took the plunge, just ordered a NU1000 DSP for 179.99.

Gulp.

I know it's system dependent but are there any quick reference guides for setting this thing up for a subwoofer, such as setting the pass and, in my case, lowering the output so not to destroy my single ported sub? At some point in the future, maybe when there is another black friday deal, I might add another JBL in a sealed box, but for right now, i don't need all that power.
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post #64 of 81 Old 03-01-2019, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm starting to toy with the idea of a smaller but sealed box with a second woofer. I need to buy another sheet of MDF anyway which is close in cost to just adding a another driver. Since I'll have DSP with the new amp, I could boost the lower frequency and match the output of my ported enclosure right?

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post #65 of 81 Old 03-02-2019, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Check twice (with your random equally crazy types from the internet) and cut-once!

I will in all likelihood be making all my cuts tomorrow, with the help of my FIL and I don't want to waste much of his time (see F-I-L).

I'll spare you all the dimension non-sense and just hope I calculated all of it right.

Here is what I got:
4.43 Cubic Feet
0.10 Minus Volume of driver
0.24 Minus volume of Port
0.02 Braces x 2
4.07 Total volume

And attached is how that graphs in WINISD. If anyone could let me know if I'm making any boneheaded mistakes, please let me know. I think my angst is because this is my first DIY speaker and I just don't know what latitude I have before it ruins the SQ.
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post #66 of 81 Old 03-16-2019, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
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And we're off!

4.85 cubic feet on the nose. FIL is a miracle man with a table saw and circular saw. He didn't kick me out of the family for having him build a freaky trapazoid, so I consider it a massive success. I had to get it partly glued up tonight, too excited.
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post #67 of 81 Old 03-17-2019, 07:08 AM
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Make sure you have a good plan to brace those large panels or you will be flexing that box like a drum. Even much smaller squarish cabs need substantial bracing to prevent flexing and resonance of the panels. Nearfield right behind your couch with drivers firing into the back of the couch will be an amazing experience for you! Did you decide to build ported or sealed?
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post #68 of 81 Old 03-17-2019, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Ported.

I had planned to brace, but while drawing it out just now, that is a really long panel to not have anything behind it. What do you think about this?

Black braces below edges of port on either side (to help suspend port), would also tie together front/back/bottom, x2

Similiar to the stonehenge, 4? braces running around the inside of the subwoofer mounting surface.

I'm going to give the glue another day to dry before cutting the holes for the ports.

This forum would have laughed if you saw the gymnastics and yoga moves I needed last night clamping this thing. Holding about 50-60 lbs of MDF in place, with the glue setting and me reaching for clamps not in arms reach!

Thoughts on braces?

I picked up 1 12oz pack and 1 20oz pack of polyfill to cut down on the effect of the soundwaves meeting in the middle as another member suggested.
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post #69 of 81 Old 03-17-2019, 07:57 AM
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Help with DIY behind the couch subwoofer box

You will need more front to back than JUST the ones near the driver.

If your Father in law is available, I’d have him cut more side pieces, hollow them out into window braces, and then cut holes for the PCV tube to slot though too.

4 braces (2 per side) would probably be fine and then IF you can do some side to side bracing, but it might not be needed.


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post #70 of 81 Old 03-17-2019, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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@EndersShadow

Good call on the window frame braces, I cut four today (I have some skills....) and will jigsaw them maybe during the week. With kids often I don't have a free night until Thursday.

Anyway, now that I sized up these ports, the flange plus the 4" is HUGE. The 6.25" overall O.D. is nearly the entire depth of the box. This begs the question, would I be better off going with a slot port? The benefit of the flared tube port is, I could always adjust the tube length should I ever want to reuse the box, (or go sealed ).

They net the same rough "loss" of cubic feet according to WinISD.

I went with the dimensions I did on the slotted because going higher than 1.25" starts to eat into my cubic feet too much. 2"(with mdf)x16.875"x24" is roughly the same cu. ft lost as the 4" port (x2)x31"
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post #71 of 81 Old 03-17-2019, 08:15 PM
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Slot port is MUCH harder to fix as you mentioned, if something is off, or you decide to change the port tune.

Slot port is a PITA to do the same too....

I'd just add some supports for the tube so its easy to thread in and out and then leave it.

But either option is fine. The slot port has a bit higher port velocity, but still under possible chuffing levels.

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post #72 of 81 Old 03-18-2019, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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@EndersShadow

Evenly spaced or larger gap in middle since I'll be doing stonehenge braces directly around woofer?







BTW: I know i have some shimming/sanding ahead of me to get the face board flat against all surfaces.
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post #73 of 81 Old 03-18-2019, 04:56 PM
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Help with DIY behind the couch subwoofer box

Larger gap in the middle and find a way to put a brace the tube slides through otherwise it’s gonna bang around and make noise which you don’t want.

Even a coupe that the tube goes through wouldn’t be bad.....


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post #74 of 81 Old 03-23-2019, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Some more pics. I can't wait to hear it and I can't wait to clean up my garage!

Note to self: Only square or rectangles in the future........................

Routing corners and 1/2 coats of paint hopefully before weekend is over.
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post #75 of 81 Old 03-28-2019, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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All painted (might need one more coat).

Tomorrow install ports, install driver, mount baffle.

16mm excursion and a 3/4" baffle should keep it safe right?
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post #76 of 81 Old 04-01-2019, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Done. Man the tactile response is really something to feel. It absolutely brings the bass alive. I had this only going to a single light on my inuke 1000 and it was about all I could take before it completely overwhelmed the rest of my stereo (running about -14db on my Yamaha RX-V675). You guys with multiples of these things seriously have a higher tolerance than myself and/or much larger rooms. Anyway, I am thrilled with how this turned out. Fits perfect, couch didn't have to be brought any further than it already was and I have about an inch clearing in addition to the 3/4 mdf baffle so plenty of room for excursion.

Thanks @EndersShadow and @Zarkoff500 !

I learned three things:
1)How inadequate my 10" HTIB was and how lacking it was in low bass
2)Only build square and rectangles
3)Finishing MDF is a real PITA. If this piece was going to be exposed as furniture I could never live with it.
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post #77 of 81 Old 04-01-2019, 05:52 PM
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Help with DIY behind the couch subwoofer box

Congrats! Most of us running multiple are going sealed which is a whole other deal.

Now you just need to run some REW sweeps...


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Quote: There exists, for everyone, a sentence - a series of words - that has the power to destroy you. Another sentence exists, another series of words, that could heal you. If you're lucky you will get the 2nd, but you can be certain of getting the 1st. - Philip K. Dick

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post #78 of 81 Old 04-01-2019, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Some day I'll get a mic, for now I don't want to judge myself too harshly.
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post #79 of 81 Old 04-01-2019, 07:13 PM
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Great job on that box!
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post #80 of 81 Old 04-02-2019, 08:41 AM
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@CheapSpeakerGuy

I am glad it turned out and you are happy with the results. That is what is most important after all. What did you end up tuning this to? Also, are those 6" ports?
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post #81 of 81 Old 04-02-2019, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
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They are actually 4" ports. I thought they looked ginormous myself when they first arrived. It is a four in port/tube, the "flares" are precision port brand but they required a 6 and 1/4" hole to slide in. From what I read on the company website although they measure 3" in total length only 2.5" is usable.

I cut ports to 31.75" total overall length and WinISD was saying 31.1" total length.
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