Sonosub 18 inch driver (Dayton UM-18) into 18 inch tube? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 20 Old 02-17-2019, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Sonosub 18 inch driver (Dayton UM-18) into 18 inch tube?

Anyone tried putting an 18 inch driver into an 18 inch tube? According to spec, the outside dia is 18.24" but the baffle cutout is 16.75" so it should work???
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Last edited by afaa; 02-17-2019 at 12:11 PM.
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post #2 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 09:16 AM
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That is way to tiny for a ported enclosure. You need a 24" sonotube at least 4' long. If you use an 18" tube it should be sealed.
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post #3 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 09:40 AM
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If you check out AVS'er @Nalleh , he put 4xSI-HT18v2 in 2xDO Sonos. He might be able to get you pointed in the right direction based on what he did. Don't know that he uses any UM18's, but you maybe able to leverage what he did and come up a with a new build.


@Nalleh 's thread


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post #4 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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@sirjaymz
Thanks for the link to Nalleh's build. That is a very nice build btw. I've thought about the sealed dual opposed, but I'm interested in the ported sonosub for more bang of the buck.


Quote:
Originally Posted by K9woofer View Post
That is way to tiny for a ported enclosure. You need a 24" sonotube at least 4' long. If you use an 18" tube it should be sealed.
I'm interested in the smaller tube due to real estate and aesthetic reasons. I'd like to keep it close in size to my front main floor standing speakers, so the 18" fits the bill. I can do a 15" driver but if I can fit an 18" then more bang for the buck, right?

Why do you think it is tiny? My calculation comes to 159L = 5.6cf. Although not an optimal size, it is still larger than the popular Marty Cube which is only 4.6cf.

My concern is whether it will fit in the tube, and from the numbers it seems like it would with the lip of the woofer hanging over/outside the tube cap.
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post #5 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afaa View Post
Why do you think it is tiny? My calculation comes to 159L = 5.6cf. Although not an optimal size, it is still larger than the popular Marty Cube which is only 4.6cf.

My concern is whether it will fit in the tube, and from the numbers it seems like it would with the lip of the woofer hanging over/outside the tube cap.
It should fit just fine.

I always encourage people to build ported subs as big as is reasonable, so I'll also do that here, but even if that 5.6cf size is the best you can do, it is like you say comparable to the MartyCube. A round port in a sonosub will help a bit with chuffing compared to a slot port in MartyCube also.

Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
Audio: Denon AVR-X4400H 7.2.4 Atmos
Mains: Fusion-15 LR, Custom Tapered Ported Volt-6 Center, Ported Volt-10 Surrounds, Custom 45°/45° Double-Angled Ported Volt-6 Atmos
Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #6 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afaa View Post
Why do you think it is tiny? My calculation comes to 159L = 5.6cf. Although not an optimal size, it is still larger than the popular Marty Cube which is only 4.6cf.

My concern is whether it will fit in the tube, and from the numbers it seems like it would with the lip of the woofer hanging over/outside the tube cap.
Because a 5" vent will result in a port velocity of 34 m/s (w/ 1500w), which causes port compression and chuffing.

edit: If you could do a 7" port it would do okay. My sims show only a 3db gain over sealed.

Last edited by K9woofer; 02-18-2019 at 05:41 PM.
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post #7 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9woofer View Post
Because a 5" vent will result in a port velocity of 34 m/s (w/ 1500w), which causes port compression and chuffing.

edit: If you could do a 7" port it would do okay. My sims show only a 3db gain over sealed.
Should be able to get away with a 6" or 6.5" port in that size enclosure tuned to about 20Hz. It's much smaller than I would build, personally, but I'd never build a MartyCube either

Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
Audio: Denon AVR-X4400H 7.2.4 Atmos
Mains: Fusion-15 LR, Custom Tapered Ported Volt-6 Center, Ported Volt-10 Surrounds, Custom 45°/45° Double-Angled Ported Volt-6 Atmos
Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #8 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 11:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9woofer View Post
Because a 5" vent will result in a port velocity of 34 m/s (w/ 1500w), which causes port compression and chuffing.

edit: If you could do a 7" port it would do okay. My sims show only a 3db gain over sealed.
I modeled this in Winisd to 500w only and the numbes look ok. My thinking is that with the ported box I don't have to drive it as hard.

I tried a 6" port but that requires a longer port which will make the tube taller which I'm trying to keep to a minimum. As it is, it will stand 5'2 which is already a few inches taller than my front towers.

I'm trying to tune it to 17hz. Maybe I should tune higher?
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post #9 of 20 Old 02-18-2019, 11:47 PM
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I think you would be fine, especially if you aren't driving it too hard. I'd tune it higher, with the HPF and higher tune you should be able to squeak by with the port velocity.


I'd consider building a ring that would fit the lip of the tube so you can have more meat to hook the driver into.
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post #10 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 03:33 AM
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Why use the 18" ultimax ported with too small of a vent on 500 watts? Wont be utilizing xmax and having less output everywhere than sealed on 1500 watts? Ultimax likes large ported enclosures. Might as well just use the 15" with more power in 18" sonotube and 5" vent.

I think you should step up to the 24"with larger port and proper power. Yes it will take up a bit more space, but you can still tune in teens, have noticibly increased output, lower extension with more feel, and no chuffing. IMO even though larger it would look cleaner without the 18" driver overhanging the 18" sonotube. Good luck with the build.
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post #11 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 04:01 AM
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hmm... would the narrowed walls create a TL behind the driver?
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post #12 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Kamp View Post
I think you should step up to the 24"with larger port and proper power. Yes it will take up a bit more space, but you can still tune in teens, have noticibly increased output, lower extension with more feel, and no chuffing. IMO even though larger it would look cleaner without the 18" driver overhanging the 18" sonotube. Good luck with the build.
Totally agree. 24" Sonotube @ 6' tall is the sweet spot that I've settled on as a super-efficient build that fits in most places, doesn't take up much floor space at all, and allows for pretty much any tune in the teens and a port 8" diameter or bigger.
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Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
Audio: Denon AVR-X4400H 7.2.4 Atmos
Mains: Fusion-15 LR, Custom Tapered Ported Volt-6 Center, Ported Volt-10 Surrounds, Custom 45°/45° Double-Angled Ported Volt-6 Atmos
Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #13 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 06:07 AM
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I did the 15" with 18" tube. I cant see how it would be possible to do larger, as you need a bit of wood to mount into. I cant imagine the .6" of wood between the walls/basket would hold screws, let alone not split.
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post #14 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 06:30 AM
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Another benefit to a 24" tube is you can climb inside of it as necessary during the build, so it can make some things quite a bit easier. With mine being 12' long, I had to spend quite a bit of time inside mine while building them. Just be careful when using epoxy and other chemicals inside the tube. I ended up with some nasty chemical asthma from inhaling a lot of nasty stuff while inside the confined space of the tube.
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Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
Audio: Denon AVR-X4400H 7.2.4 Atmos
Mains: Fusion-15 LR, Custom Tapered Ported Volt-6 Center, Ported Volt-10 Surrounds, Custom 45°/45° Double-Angled Ported Volt-6 Atmos
Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #15 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input everyone. I'm back to the drawing board and reconsidering the sealed sub.
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post #16 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 06:22 PM
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Redacted...….

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html

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post #17 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
I have been eying this driver for my next option.

Made in the USA and reconable.

https://ficaraudio.com/product/q-series-q18-ferrite/

The 2019 Q-Ferrite Series of subwoofers continues the tradition of the Q series being our sound quality reference line. Featuring a 4 stack ferrite motor structure and 34mm of Xmax that allows for incredibly detailed, tight, and powerful bass. Triple progressive 10″ spiders keep the incredible linear excursion of this sub under control, while the stitched extra heavy lead wire feeds the giant voice coil. With the bulk of the parts being pulled from the Q-Neo series you can think of the Q-Ferrite as the functional equivalent but less expensive version of the Q series. Not every customer wants or needs the Neo version of the sub or the added expense. The Q-Ferrite series gives you all the same features such as pole chamfer, cooling channels, stitched leads, 10″ progressive spiders, 34mm of Xmax

Why the Q series?
The SSD neo is around the same price. So far mine have exceeded expectations.
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post #18 of 20 Old 02-19-2019, 10:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9woofer View Post
That is way to tiny for a ported enclosure. You need a 24" sonotube at least 4' long. If you use an 18" tube it should be sealed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by unretarded View Post
I have been eying this driver for my next option.

Made in the USA and reconable.



https://ficaraudio.com/product/q-series-q18-ferrite/
Thanks for the link, but for the Home Theater crowd, I think their Home Theater series, the HT1 and HT3 looks very interesting with low FS. The price for the HT1 is also very competitive coming in at under $300 making it cheaper than the Ultra popular Dayton UM-18. Wonder why it hasn't been mentioned much in the wild.
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post #19 of 20 Old 02-20-2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebb View Post
Why the Q series?
The SSD neo is around the same price. So far mine have exceeded expectations.
Redacted due to not knowing what I was talking about....

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html

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post #20 of 20 Old 02-20-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afaa View Post
Thanks for the link, but for the Home Theater crowd, I think their Home Theater series, the HT1 and HT3 looks very interesting with low FS. The price for the HT1 is also very competitive coming in at under $300 making it cheaper than the Ultra popular Dayton UM-18. Wonder why it hasn't been mentioned much in the wild.

Redacted.

Link to Stereo Integrity SI HT 18 sub build......https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...-pedestal.html
Speakers and subs for sale...https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...kers-subs.html

Last edited by unretarded; 02-20-2019 at 06:37 PM.
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