In ceiling subwoofer build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-23-2019, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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In ceiling subwoofer build

Guys,

Its been some time since I have been on this forum. Building a new house with distributed audio. I'm doing 32 zones of audio. 26 of these zones will consist of stereo speakers for the inside and outside of the home. The remaining 6 zones I'm going to use for subwoofers. I will then have programmed into the automation system to have the subwoofer zones come along with certain regular zones. I'm doing this for those rooms where I want a little extra oomphf!

I started looking around for good in ceiling options for subwoofers. Most everything I find is pretty weak, so the thoughts of building something on my own creeps into my head again. I told myself with this new home I wasnt going to do anything weird or build my own stuff, but the more I think about this, I dont see how it could go wrong. I want superior fit and finish so that it doesnt look like I built it. Here is what I was thinking. There are a few different options, but I was thinking of buying a Monoprice Alpha 10" subwoofer that comes with a magnetic grille. They are $99. I would be removing the driver from that and basically just using the pre-fabbed subplate with the magnetic grille. This will get me my fit and finish. Then I would order a nice 10" high excursion driver. Maybe like the Dayton Reference 10" or other suggestions? I would then build a 2.8 to 3.0 cubic box that would screw directly into the rafters accounting for drywall depth, etc. Once house is complete, I attach magnetic grille and there you go....

This is just a basic process I laid out, but you guys get the idea. Some issues I can see:

1. Can a subwoofer hang upside down without having any sagging issues? I'm sure this really isnt an issue because it would be an issue with all ceiling speakers then
2. The Alpha sub plate might not have the right holes for the high excursion 10". or the back of the Alpha may not accept the high excursion 10". I suppose anything could be modified though.
3. During playback, the high excursion sub may extend much more then the Alpha sub, therefore hit the grille causing it to rattle or fall off?
4. Should the sub be ported? If so, ports would have to somehow be cut into the face of the sub plate
5. Noise traveling to other rooms? This really would not be too much of an issue either as box will be well insulated
6. Will it sound good? I dont see how it would not sound better then anything I could buy up to and probably over the $1000 range. This whole setup would cost me about $300 to $350 to build

Thoughts?
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-23-2019, 06:15 PM
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I built an 8" OSD in-ceiling sealed sub (Above vanity) in our master bath, powered by Monoprice amp. I love the sound... Paired with OSD dual voice coil speaker (Above tub). 15' x 8' bathroom adjoining 14' x 8' closet.



Also have a couple of there 10" in-wall subs, they're really heavy...not sure I'd trust it above me.

Last edited by Nobr8ks; 02-23-2019 at 06:36 PM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-23-2019, 06:23 PM
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You could just go IB with some Fi Car audio 12,15 or 18's. You can get custom grills made/use a premade vent cover that would maintain the aesthetics but have very good bass.
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-23-2019, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zarkoff500 View Post
You could just go IB with some Fi Car audio 12,15 or 18's. You can get custom grills made/use a premade vent cover that would maintain the aesthetics but have very good bass.
I have seen alot of OSD stuff, but never gave it a second look because thought it was just cheap. Is that not the case. I already bought some KEF in wall subs for the kitchen but wanted something with more output for the rec room/bar area
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-23-2019, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rf5000 View Post
I have seen alot of OSD stuff, but never gave it a second look because thought it was just cheap. Is that not the case. I already bought some KEF in wall subs for the kitchen but wanted something with more output for the rec room/bar area

Was a skeptic too.
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-23-2019, 07:20 PM
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What about PA460s IB?

Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips TR Curves
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
Audio: Denon AVR-X4400H 7.2.4 Atmos
Mains: Fusion-15 LR, Fusion-8 Center, Ported Volt-10 Surrounds, Custom 45°/45° Double-Angled Ported Volt-6 Atmos
Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-24-2019, 05:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aron7awol View Post
What about PA460s IB?
This is going to be a high end home, hence the reason I wanted top fit and finish. So I dont want a bunch of big subs in the ceiling, etc. Unless you just meant one of those 18", but still I don't want it to look like I built it. I would love to just buy the JL Fathom in wall subs, but don't want to spend that much.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-24-2019, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rf5000 View Post
This is going to be a high end home, hence the reason I wanted top fit and finish. So I dont want a bunch of big subs in the ceiling, etc. Unless you just meant one of those 18", but still I don't want it to look like I built it. I would love to just buy the JL Fathom in wall subs, but don't want to spend that much.
You don't have to show the drivers. You can do a manifold and completely hide them.
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Take the Red Pill (BassEQ) BassEQ Demo Clips TR Curves
Video: Sony 85" X900F @ 80" eyes-to-screen (49.4° viewing angle)
Audio: Denon AVR-X4400H 7.2.4 Atmos
Mains: Fusion-15 LR, Fusion-8 Center, Ported Volt-10 Surrounds, Custom 45°/45° Double-Angled Ported Volt-6 Atmos
Subs: The Two Towers (HT18 32cf 11.5Hz x 2), UM18 4cf x 2, Crowson MAs x 4
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post #9 of 10 Old 02-25-2019, 05:04 AM
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You could also do a bandpass sub so all the comes into the room is the port, assuming the ceiling is attic. You'd get much more lower better bass than a smaller directly radiating driver.

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post #10 of 10 Old 02-26-2019, 06:16 AM
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Doing 4 ceiling subs, each placed about 1/4 room length from each corner, has been shown by some calculations to be a prime setup for good seat-seat bass consistency for most rectangular rooms with traditional theater seatings positions. Something to consider and the paper was published by the THX folks at some point if I'm not mistaken.

This may be less of an issue with Andy C's multiple sub optimizer software as a way to improve seat-seat freq response consistency. I think it depends on how hard core you are about a linear response and additionally seat-seat response.

Blazar!
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