Originally Posted by dasa2131
BCRSS is spot on! The dust gets everywhere. Make sure you have a good dust mask to wear while you cut/sand it. I'd recommend you do the cutting/sanding/routering outside if you can.
Guess you missed the part where I said I was from South Dakota? The only thing I go outside for this time of year is blowing snow off the driveway and that's in a complete Arctic grade snowmobile suit!
Think I'll just invest in (or make) a decent dust extractor for my circular saw.
Dyter, I highly recommend 4 tools for cutting the boxes:
1.) A good circular saw. I just upgraded to a Dewalt 60v flex volt cordless. It's awesome! Using a 60t fine cut blade and it's like rolling through soft butter with a hot wire! 😉. You can use a table saw if you like, but I find it much easier to use a circular saw when dealing with large chunks of heavy sheets! (Trying to run a thin 4'x8' sheet through a table saw is a pain... 3/4" MDF? Plan to have a helper or two.)
2.) A good tape measure and a sharp pencil. The more precise you are with your marks, the better the cuts, the easier the assembly.
3.) A good square and/or a T-Square (nicer for drawing marks for the bigger dimensions of the 1299).
4.) A clamping guide! Like this... Bora 50" WTX Clamp Edge Saw Guide
this makes life easy! Just make sure you take into account the distance between the saw edge and blade. I cut from the wrong side on my first cut and I was about a blades width short. Not a big deal. I just cut the other two sides to match and now my center is just a 1/16th of an inch shorter than the other two. Doh!
If you're cutting your own baffles, definitely get a jigsaw and a router involved for the circles and any cutouts you need.
For clamps, 4 x 18-24" ratchet/quick clamps should be plenty. Tite bond III works great for glue (lay a good bead and then spread it even with a foam brush). And finally, I highly recommend a couple of 90 degree corner clamps. I have a couple (only about $6 each) and they pretty much guarantee you'll have nice square an flush corners.
The above is exactly what I did. Took me less than 15 minutes with an orbital sander to clean up all the seams and completely smooth the back panel to 220 grit on my 1099 box this morning. If I was going for a high quality paint finish, then it would have taken another 10-15 minutes to add a bit of bondo to 2-3 minor low spots on a couple corners. I put two coats of Rustoleum Matte Black 2x ultra cover paint primer on the back panel and it looks like a clean chalk board. A couple coats of filling primer with a higher grit sanding after each could quickly get you to a point where a high gloss black would look outstanding.