4x 18 inch Ultimax Sub Behind Screen Build - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post
That’d be fun. @desertdome I might need help though I have 4-full Marty flatpacks from GSG sitting in garage. They customed those to fit my UXL-18s. Anyone want my eD sealed boxes?
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I’ll be ready by fall if we set a date lol
I’m in.
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post #32 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 03:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
Those are looking great. We should have a dual subwoofer shootout in Omaha sometime. There is some serious firepower in the area! The problem is all the subs are too big to want to move.
I love the idea. We would need a bunch of us to move them around in and out if everyone’s spaces and an even bigger space to put them all in for the shoot out. I think we are over due for another Omaha tour though. I should be able to wrap mine up once these subs are in place. Then I’ll be able to focus on finishing details of the space.
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post #33 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I’m in.

Oh good! I’ve seen your moving skills first hand with that ULF4000 for the KC tour a couple years back.
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post #34 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Here’s what I’m working on now that the boxes are mostly built. I think I’ll screw the oak pieces to the MDF so I don’t have to clamp and wait. I’m making the holes slightly larger than the bolts to hopefully avoid any alignment issues once I try to actually mount the drivers. Does anyone use workable locktite on the bolts so they don’t loosen over time?



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post #35 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 04:05 PM
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Didn't you say that you had a nail gun? That's how I'd be fixing those added braces for the glue to dry. Clamp the middle then shoot a nail either side and move clamp onto the next one.
I wouldn't recommend using Loctite either, even the blue loctite as the nuts may strip the wood before the bolts loosen. I doubt they'd undo once nipped up.
Looking good
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post #36 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
Those are looking great. We should have a dual subwoofer shootout in Omaha sometime. There is some serious firepower in the area! The problem is all the subs are too big to want to move.

@sassuki : quad UM18-22 ported
@nebrunner : quad UM18-22 sealed and Danley DTS-10
@W00lly : quad dual-opposed MFW-15 woofers sealed
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I moved to TX. Rebuilt a new theater in a dedicated room. It’s better than what I had. Focused more on room treatments, and have some new speakers. Still have my quad subs with a mini dsp. My theater room is pretty awesome. I’ll throw some pics up.
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post #37 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by brettus View Post
Didn't you say that you had a nail gun? That's how I'd be fixing those added braces for the glue to dry. Clamp the middle then shoot a nail either side and move clamp onto the next one.
^^^ this. That's exactly what I did. Had all driver mount braces done in 5 minutes.



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post #38 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 06:41 PM
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Wait you are running these ~2ohms with a FP14k? I should have shipped you mine free for parts after it died but I "donated" it during city cleanup day. Probably cost more to ship than the parts.
I guess it lasted a few years.

Excited to see how it fares. I know some people still have their originals thumping.
Johnson sent me an excited email the other day telling me, you no wait, 2ohm stable certified for USA buyer. Whatever that means.

Excited to have an Omaha GTG, my basement will only be sticks and wiring phase by then. Doesn't @desertdome have a new pad now?
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post #39 of 76 Old 03-18-2019, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Didn't you say that you had a nail gun?

Yeah, but the nails are too long, so I’ll pick up some shorter ones.
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post #40 of 76 Old 03-19-2019, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post
Wait you are running these ~2ohms with a FP14k? I should have shipped you mine free for parts after it died but I "donated" it during city cleanup day. Probably cost more to ship than the parts.

I guess it lasted a few years.
Yeah... it’s a Sanway clone. Is that what you had? I take it from your comment that I may be making smoke soon. Should I run them 8ohm instead? What kind of amp did you replace yours with?


Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

Excited to see how it fares. I know some people still have their originals thumping.

Johnson sent me an excited email the other day telling me, you no wait, 2ohm stable certified for USA buyer. Whatever that means.
That means you buy now!


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Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

Excited to have an Omaha GTG, my basement will only be sticks and wiring phase by then. Doesn't @desertdome have a new pad now?
Do you have a build thread? And yeah, @desertdome is building a new theater. It looks like it will be pretty awesome.
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post #41 of 76 Old 03-21-2019, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some detail views of the various panels and steps I took to assemble them.




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post #42 of 76 Old 03-24-2019, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I went camping this weekend, so little progress was made on the subs. I did get a chance to put some bracing in the one box that I had the speaker mounting holes and backers done on. I wanted to integrate the bracing into the mounting holes, and I think this will work out nicely and allow me to use the scrap strips of mdf I already have.
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post #43 of 76 Old 03-25-2019, 06:37 PM
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question for you: did you happen to model the frequency response of the subs in that particular in reference to MLP or other positions? have you tested the frequency response and how does it look? what crossover frequency are you using?

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post #44 of 76 Old 03-26-2019, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazar View Post
question for you: did you happen to model the frequency response of the subs in that particular in reference to MLP or other positions? have you tested the frequency response and how does it look? what crossover frequency are you using?

No, I have not modeled anything in my room yet. @Eng -999 modeled the enclosures for @Oklahomie and the dimensions worked well for my space, so I decided to build them too. Hopefully I’m not sitting in a null or anything. I love your MBM bar. That has to be an awesome experience. Someday I hope to achieve that chest slamming bass.
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post #45 of 76 Old 03-26-2019, 05:15 PM
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No, I have not modeled anything in my room yet. @Eng -999 modeled the enclosures for @Oklahomie and the dimensions worked well for my space, so I decided to build them too. Hopefully I’m not sitting in a null or anything. I love your MBM bar. That has to be an awesome experience. Someday I hope to achieve that chest slamming bass.
I was just wondering since my brother is working on a design for his house and it would be MUCH simpler to put the subs in the front wall instead of widening the side walls or the rear wall. our models actually result in a much more clean MLP with quad subs in the corners of the back wall (two on the ground and two near the ceiling) but it really messes with his design for the rear wall.

MikeLA's place we visited in Cali has a single bass array with a rear absorption wall (this also is not ideal for our decor issue since there is a sizable window on the back wall).

I'm wondering about perhaps doing something like you are doing there but every time we try to model a typical listening position, we keep getting various nulls that we don't like. I'm pretty sure we have to put at least one more sub somewhere that we can adjust (maybe hanging from the ceiling) and we can run an mso calculation to neutralize nulls.

Generally, for a front set of subs, what is the "ideal" position of the drivers to cancel as many nulls as possible? I am thinking about 4 drivers.

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post #46 of 76 Old 03-27-2019, 07:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Generally, for a front set of subs, what is the "ideal" position of the drivers to cancel as many nulls as possible? I am thinking about 4 drivers.
I believe 1/4 room width is the ideal placement for subs along the front wall. If 1/4 width is ideal for two subs, I’m guessing 1/4 height would be good for two more. Ideally 1/4 the room depth also, but that would not put them on the front wall.
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post #47 of 76 Old 03-27-2019, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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4x 18 inch Ultimax Sub Behind Screen Build

I made a little more progress last night after work. I got the holes cut in all the second baffles and mounted the second baffle to the one box that I’ve put the bracing in. My jasper circle jig was not big enough to cut the holes for these beastly 18inch ultimaxes, so I had to add a couple pin locations to it.



Lotsa glue for the second baffle layer:


Sweet lookin countersink. Too bad these will be hidden behind the screen.


I also got a free table saw! I wish I would have had this before I started building all these speakers.
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Last edited by sassuki; 03-27-2019 at 07:33 AM.
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post #48 of 76 Old 04-03-2019, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I put the new table saw to work last night and ripped a bunch of strips so I could continue bracing all the boxes. Three out of the four boxes are now braced, so hopefully o can finish up the fourth tonight and slap a coat of paint on them. I’m hoping to have them moved into the theater before this weekend so I can start setting them up and dive into the REW/minidsp rabbit hole. What plugin will I need?



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post #49 of 76 Old 04-05-2019, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Almost done!
I should be able to mount the drivers and start playing with them in the room this weekend. All four are finally lined with mattress pad, painted and binding posts ready to be wired. It will be nice to get some room back in my garage.


The dog had to help me with the mattress pads:
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post #50 of 76 Old 04-07-2019, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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The subs are in place and hooked up. Now I have to get the mini DSP set up so I can crank it. I also have to build some stands to get the 1099 tweeters at ear level. I’ve only turned the amp up to about 9:00 and played it softly until i get the proper filters in place, but damn, they sound awesome. I wired each sub’s DVCs in series and then paired up each of them in parallel to the two channel 14k clone. Now I get to dive into the DSP REW rabbit hole.

I moved as much as I could out of the way so I could get the subs in the room.


Three down, one in the works:


They are bigger than a small child:


Finally, all four in place. Thanks to my buddies @hellerbrewing and Jason. My wife and I were unable to lift the loaded subs onto the bottom ones.
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post #51 of 76 Old 04-07-2019, 12:44 PM
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The struggle is real when trying to lift those suckers up! They are stinking heavy! Beautiful, though. I’ve been keeping my amps dialed at 12:00 they still beat friggin hard.

How do you like those 1099’s?


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post #52 of 76 Old 04-07-2019, 04:51 PM
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What is the amp clone that you speak about?

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post #53 of 76 Old 04-07-2019, 09:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oklahomie View Post
The struggle is real when trying to lift those suckers up! They are stinking heavy! Beautiful, though. I’ve been keeping my amps dialed at 12:00 they still beat friggin hard.
How do you like those 1099’s?
Aaron H.
You know it!

I’m loving the 1099s. I’m pushing them with an emotiva 5 channel amp and they are just effortless. I love the headroom on tap that they offer. Nothing beats when you’re watching a scene with some normal talking-level dialog and then a gunshot rings out or all hell breaks loose. I’m not ever having to reach for the remote or adjust the volume back and forth like I’ve had to do with less adequate systems. The super 8 train crash scene is actually kinda scary how loud it can get, and I’m still about -6... It’s fun. I just built some stands for them so I can get the waveguide at ear level. It should be better than having them pointed right into the back of the screen frame like they had been until now.

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post #54 of 76 Old 04-07-2019, 09:49 PM - Thread Starter
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What is the amp clone that you speak about?

The clone amp is a Chinese Sanway brand clone of a lab grupen 14000 watt 2 channel professional amp. It should provide way more power than these UM18s will ever need. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...34237?page=663
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post #55 of 76 Old 04-07-2019, 11:49 PM
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Love your setup but how do you keep the subs from moving with all the vibration they making ?

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post #56 of 76 Old 04-08-2019, 05:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Love your setup but how do you keep the subs from moving with all the vibration they making ?

Each sub weighs about 235lbs. I am only guessing that the weight will keep them steady, but I haven’t pushed them yet to know.
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post #57 of 76 Old 04-08-2019, 07:49 AM
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Nice job on those subs, and awesome looking front stage!! That setup must sound amazing.
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post #58 of 76 Old 04-08-2019, 01:14 PM
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Upon first glance I thought to myself ... he's building a SBA behind his AT screen, how cool is that!

reference this classic build
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ter-build.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
I've had four UM18-22 Ultimax subs sitting on my shelf just waiting for the day to come when I would build them proper enclosures for my dedicated theater. Well, that time has finally come. I was originally thinking of just going with a full marty design, but didn't want the port firing into the back of my screen, so I decided to reach out to @eng-999 for a customized design. He had just designed some um18-22 boxes for @Oklahomie that seemed well-suited for my application as well, so after talking with him about what I was wanting, it seemed like reusing that design would work. I'll be running them off an LG FP14k clone amp and wiring each pair of them to present a ~2ohm load to each of the two channels of the amp. My receiver is a Denon 4520 but I also have a mini DSP 2x4. Since the Denon has dual sub outputs, do I even need to use the miniDSP? I am not sure if I can set the proper filters needed for a ported enclosure without the minidsp. Is there a way to do it in Audyssey? My mains are DIYSG 1099s powered by an Emotiva XPA5 and surrounds are volt 10s. The room is roughly 12x26x8ft and is a room within a room construction with sealed doors (link to room build thread in my sig).

Now the fun stuff.

This is how they will be stacked behind my screen:
With the 1099s:
Then as I read the thread ... yep, at 1/4 from walls it is a SBA

Quote:
Originally Posted by blazar View Post
I was just wondering since my brother is working on a design for his house and it would be MUCH simpler to put the subs in the front wall instead of widening the side walls or the rear wall. our models actually result in a much more clean MLP with quad subs in the corners of the back wall (two on the ground and two near the ceiling) but it really messes with his design for the rear wall.

MikeLA's place we visited in Cali has a single bass array with a rear absorption wall (this also is not ideal for our decor issue since there is a sizable window on the back wall).

I'm wondering about perhaps doing something like you are doing there but every time we try to model a typical listening position, we keep getting various nulls that we don't like. I'm pretty sure we have to put at least one more sub somewhere that we can adjust (maybe hanging from the ceiling) and we can run an mso calculation to neutralize nulls.

Generally, for a front set of subs, what is the "ideal" position of the drivers to cancel as many nulls as possible? I am thinking about 4 drivers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
I believe 1/4 room width is the ideal placement for subs along the front wall. If 1/4 width is ideal for two subs, I’m guessing 1/4 height would be good for two more. Ideally 1/4 the room depth also, but that would not put them on the front wall.
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post #59 of 76 Old 04-08-2019, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
Upon first glance I thought to myself ... he's building a SBA behind his AT screen, how cool is that!



Then as I read the thread ... yep, at 1/4 from walls it is a SBA

Hopefully it helps smooth out some possible room nulls I might have.
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post #60 of 76 Old 04-08-2019, 07:18 PM
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Hopefully it helps smooth out some possible room nulls I might have.

assuming you could do 1/4 from the walls, should we do 1/4 height from the ceiling and floor (above and below the center channel) perhaps? I'm curious what the maximum benefit that could be achieved with subs behind an AT screen without doing any subs anywhere else and not having exotic amounts of absorption.

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