4x 18 inch Ultimax Sub Behind Screen Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 74 Old 03-06-2019, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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4x 18 inch Ultimax Sub Behind Screen Build

I've had four UM18-22 Ultimax subs sitting on my shelf just waiting for the day to come when I would build them proper enclosures for my dedicated theater. Well, that time has finally come. I was originally thinking of just going with a full marty design, but didn't want the port firing into the back of my screen, so I decided to reach out to @eng-999 for a customized design. He had just designed some um18-22 boxes for @Oklahomie that seemed well-suited for my application as well, so after talking with him about what I was wanting, it seemed like reusing that design would work. I'll be running them off an LG FP14k clone amp and wiring each pair of them to present a ~2ohm load to each of the two channels of the amp. My receiver is a Denon 4520 but I also have a mini DSP 2x4. Since the Denon has dual sub outputs, do I even need to use the miniDSP? I am not sure if I can set the proper filters needed for a ported enclosure without the minidsp. Is there a way to do it in Audyssey? My mains are DIYSG 1099s powered by an Emotiva XPA5 and surrounds are volt 10s. The room is roughly 12x26x8ft and is a room within a room construction with sealed doors (link to room build thread in my sig).

Now the fun stuff.

I took the measurements provided by eng-999 and built them in sketchup so I could visualize how they needed to be built:



This is how they will be stacked behind my screen:

With the 1099s:


Cutlist:


Pile of wood:


Measurements from eng's modeling:
Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
Four ported boxes vs two sealed boxes. These winisd charts show there total output.
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post #2 of 74 Old 03-06-2019, 03:37 PM
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4x 18 inch Ultimax Sub Behind Screen Build

Oh man, this is a sweet setup. Isn’t eng-399 the best? Yes, with the clone amp, you still need the mini dsp. Get the WiFi module and you’ll be loving it. When you get to that point, ask for help. Its not too hard. I used to use both sub outs from my x6300, but Audyssey messes up on the distances and now only use one to the mini dsp.
Subbed and I can’t wait to see how you love this setup.
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post #3 of 74 Old 03-06-2019, 04:52 PM
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post #4 of 74 Old 03-06-2019, 10:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I was making pretty good progress on the first box tonight, but rushed it and ended up breaking it. The glue wasn’t quite dry enough for me to move the clamps to another panel. One of the panels fell off completely and another one loosened up quite a bit, so I had to re glue and re clamp it. It frustrated the crap out of me and it was getting late, so I quit for the night. Here are a couple pics of how far I got before it fell apart:



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post #5 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 05:14 AM
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Nice work! Thanks for sharing it. I'd love to hear your impressions of them when you get them thumping.
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post #6 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
I was making pretty good progress on the first box tonight, but rushed it and ended up breaking it. The glue wasn’t quite dry enough for me to move the clamps to another panel. One of the panels fell off completely and another one loosened up quite a bit, so I had to re glue and re clamp it. It frustrated the crap out of me and it was getting late, so I quit for the night. Here are a couple pics of how far I got before it fell apart:
Yeah, that's the frustration of having a limited number of clamps, I feel your pain! I've had to call it a night earlier than planned just because I didn't have enough clamps on hand.
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post #7 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notfastenough View Post
Yeah, that's the frustration of having a limited number of clamps, I feel your pain! I've had to call it a night earlier than planned just because I didn't have enough clamps on hand.


I’ve seriously considered buying a bunch of clamps so I could knock these all out in a shorter time frame, but then I’d run out of room in my garage really quick. If it wasn’t winter and snowing all the time I’d leave the cars in the driveway for a couple nights until I was finished. I guess I’m going to change my strategy and build one at a time from start to finish. It will be hard resisting the temptation to drop in a driver and hook up the first one I get done.
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post #8 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 09:20 AM
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Call me crazy, but I glue, pre drill, countersink and screw all my cabs together. Yeah it leaves holes to fill, but it makes the build fast. Coarse drywall screws, 1 1/2 length work for me.
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post #9 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 12:11 PM
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@Jk7.2

I swear his setup is identical to what I was talking about doing in my room (and almost the same dimensions)! I've not start cutting anything yet and this is a perfect match for my room hah...

@sassuki

Thanks for sharing this, subscribed and probably copying you have you put any thought into bracing for this?
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Last edited by beyond; 03-07-2019 at 12:23 PM.
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post #10 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 01:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
Thanks for sharing this, subscribed and probably copying you have you put any thought into bracing for this?

Glad I could help in some way, since I too am copying Aaron’s subs that Mike came up with.

I have been thinking about bracing and am planning on using a bunch of 3inch strips I already cut down while the table saw was set to cut the port rails. I’m thinking of using a piece of plywood behind the driver cutout for mounting the driver bolts. I’ll attach the 3 inch strips to that edge perpendicularly and do some sort of intersecting pattern of strips on the back side. I’ll add some pictures when I get to that point, or I might add it in the sketchup model to see if it translates from the thoughts in my head.
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post #11 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
Glad I could help in some way, since I too am copying Aaron’s subs that Mike came up with.

I have been thinking about bracing and am planning on using a bunch of 3inch strips I already cut down while the table saw was set to cut the port rails. I’m thinking of using a piece of plywood behind the driver cutout for mounting the driver bolts. I’ll attach the 3 inch strips to that edge perpendicularly and do some sort of intersecting pattern of strips on the back side. I’ll add some pictures when I get to that point, or I might add it in the sketchup model to see if it translates from the thoughts in my head.
I'm getting quotes for doing the cuts today on this by a local lumber yard, so if I go this route I'll probably chime into your thread a bit. I've got all my parts sitting in the basement minus the MDF and am ready to get building.
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post #12 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
Call me crazy, but I glue, pre drill, countersink and screw all my cabs together. Yeah it leaves holes to fill, but it makes the build fast. Coarse drywall screws, 1 1/2 length work for me.


Thanks. I used to drill and screw everything back in my car audio days, but then the internet was invented and convinced me that gluing and clamping was just as strong... I’m just too impatient for that approach I guess. Considering these are going behind a screen I’m not too concerned about screw holes.
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post #13 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
I'm getting quotes for doing the cuts today on this by a local lumber yard, so if I go this route I'll probably chime into your thread a bit. I've got all my parts sitting in the basement minus the MDF and am ready to get building.

Here is what I’m thinking of doing for the bracing. Nothing too fancy but it should do the trick:
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post #14 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 03:18 PM
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I had planned on using some of these threaded inserts into the inner baffle and cutting the outer baffle wider so the subs are flush mounted, and skipping the extra piece of plywood in there. Not sure if there is a benefit of going one route vs the other.


As for bracing I had kinda contemplated on using the normal window type ones that people throw in mini-marty's but maybe add something front to back as well across them.. Being that these are not as deep, guess I need to take that into consideration and perhaps what you've outlined is enough bracing.

@Jk7.2 : When you do those screws, what are you filling with? I don't have tons of clamps and have thought I'd go the screw route instead... (or maybe just brad nails from my air gun, but worry those may work their way out with vibrations)
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post #15 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 03:26 PM
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4x 18 inch Ultimax Sub Behind Screen Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
I had planned on using some of these threaded inserts into the inner baffle and cutting the outer baffle wider so the subs are flush mounted, and skipping the extra piece of plywood in there. Not sure if there is a benefit of going one route vs the other.





As for bracing I had kinda contemplated on using the normal window type ones that people throw in mini-marty's but maybe add something front to back as well across them.. Being that these are not as deep, guess I need to take that into consideration and perhaps what you've outlined is enough bracing.


@Jk7.2 : When you do those screws, what are you filling with? I don't have tons of clamps and have thought I'd go the screw route instead... (or maybe just brad nails from my air gun, but worry those may work their way out with vibrations)


When I use drywall screws, I just cover them with wood filler, If the boxes aren’t going behind the screen. My boxes behind my screen aren’t finished all the way around. Couldn’t let that get between me and my bass! I’m just impatient. My nearfield boxes are finished. And obviously all the speakers I’ve built. I just countersink them so the heads are about 1/8” sunk, then fill.
You still need clamps with brad nails. But they help hold panels in place.
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post #16 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
When I use drywall screws, I just cover them with wood filler, If the boxes aren’t going behind the screen. My boxes behind my screen aren’t finished all the way around. Couldn’t let that get between me and my bass! I’m just impatient. My nearfield boxes are finished. And obviously all the speakers I’ve built. I just countersink them so the heads are about 1/8” sunk, then fill.
You still need clamps with brad nails. But they help hold panels in place.
Sounds like screws are in my future then these are all going behind the walls anyways.... and screwing will help make this go mucho faster...
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post #17 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post
@Jk7.2 : When you do those screws, what are you filling with? I don't have tons of clamps and have thought I'd go the screw route instead... (or maybe just brad nails from my air gun, but worry those may work their way out with vibrations)
I've used 18Ga brad nails in all my sub builds. They aren't going anywhere, the glue holds the panels together. The brad nails are basically replacing clamps, holding the panels in place while the glue sets.

Glue, nail in place, move on to the next panel. Easy and fast.
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Sub builds: Yet another Infinity 1260 build | Twins! | Modified V.B.S.S. build | UM12-22 builds | AV stand and sealed UM18s

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post #18 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 06:06 PM
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I've used 18Ga brad nails in all my sub builds. They aren't going anywhere, the glue holds the panels together. The brad nails are basically replacing clamps, holding the panels in place while the glue sets.



Glue, nail in place, move on to the next panel. Easy and fast.
Same here. From sheets of MDF to three complete 24x48x20 enclosures took about 5-6 hours. Patience is not my strong suit. Ha.

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post #19 of 74 Old 03-07-2019, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Same here. From sheets of MDF to three complete 24x48x20 enclosures took about 5-6 hours. Patience is not my strong suit. Ha.

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That sounds ideal. I’m breaking out the nailer for the rest of these bad boys. Maybe I’ll be able to get them done this weekend after all.
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That sounds ideal. I’m breaking out the nailer for the rest of these bad boys. Maybe I’ll be able to get them done this weekend after all.
yup, brad nailer for the win! at least 20 boxes built that way.

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I have been getting crazier with my wood for speakers. Solid pine with miter lock joints, glue, and brad nails. PL premium on inside seam.
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post #22 of 74 Old 03-08-2019, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I got the other back/front panel glued up tonight. I should be able to get the bracing done tomorrow and then I can put the last panel on and move on to the next box. This thing is so big I thought it would be easy enough to work on the bracing through the open side and speaker cutout.



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post #23 of 74 Old 03-09-2019, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I don’t think I’ll be making much progress on the subs this weekend like I had hoped. The weather has decided to make a mess of my work space in the garage.





At least I had the MDF off the floor before it got wet
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post #24 of 74 Old 03-09-2019, 09:50 AM
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I’m glad your mdf was safe. What happened there?
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post #25 of 74 Old 03-09-2019, 02:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I’m glad your mdf was safe. What happened there?


Me too!
What happened was a combo of things leading to the water building up in front of the walkout garage door. We have a couple feet of snow on the ground that is finally thawing today, combined with a steady rainfall all morning, my neighbor’s sump output up the hill pointed at that corner of the house, the underground downspout drain tile right outside the door being frozen, and a non-existent swale/grade on the uphill/garage side of the house. Next winter I’ll know that I need to shovel the patio.
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post #26 of 74 Old 03-10-2019, 05:42 PM
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That sucks real bad! Hope you can get back to work soon.


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post #27 of 74 Old 03-11-2019, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I was able to make a little progress Sunday after things dried out a bit. @hellerbrewing and I got another box mostly assembled and cut the hole in the first one. I need to go pick up some 1/2 inch hardwood for the driver hole backing so I don’t end up stripping out the mdf when mounting the driver. It will also be a nice attachment point for the internal bracing. I also need to get a new router bit so I can get a nice cut for the second baffle layer. I cut the inner one with a jigsaw since it’s covered by the flange anyway, but will use a router and jasper circle jig for the exposed outside one.

Here’s how the first box looks with a driver sitting in it:
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post #28 of 74 Old 03-18-2019, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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So close... yet so far away.

I finished up the last of the four sub enclosures over the weekend, but am still working on adding the internal bracing and speaker mounting. I’ve decided to use 6”x2”x1/2” strips of oak behind each bolt, but it’s going to be a pain to get them all drilled, aligned and glued/mounted. Then I still have to mess with the bracing once the bolt holes are addressed. Some sort of window/integrated bracing solution like the flat packs offer sure would be nice right about now.

I’m so close I can almost hear the bass! Literally... when I shoot a nail into the box it sounds good... haha
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post #29 of 74 Old 03-18-2019, 01:02 PM
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Those are looking great. We should have a dual subwoofer shootout in Omaha sometime. There is some serious firepower in the area! The problem is all the subs are too big to want to move.

@sassuki : quad UM18-22 ported
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desertdome: dual JTR Speakers Captivator S2 sealed
@HuskerOmaha : quad Mach 5 Audio UXL-18 sealed
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post #30 of 74 Old 03-18-2019, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
Those are looking great. We should have a dual subwoofer shootout in Omaha sometime. There is some serious firepower in the area! The problem is all the subs are too big to want to move.

@sassuki : quad UM18-22 ported
@nebrunner : quad UM18-22 sealed and Danley DTS-10
@W00lly : quad dual-opposed MFW-15 woofers sealed
@jbrazda : dual SVS PB16-Ultra ported
desertdome: dual JTR Speakers Captivator S2 sealed
@HuskerOmaha : quad Mach 5 Audio UXL-18 sealed
@andersa : dual Mach 5 Audio UXL-18 ported
@trans mitr: quad SI HT 18D4 drivers in 16cuft sonotubes ported
@rkinmoval : six SI HT 18D4 drivers sealed
@sthompson : dual Seaton Submersive sealed and dual JTR Speakers Captivator 4000ULFs ported
@Oledurt : dual Powersound Audio V3600i and dual Powersound Audio V1510 (not sure if still in Omaha area)

That’d be fun. @desertdome I might need help though I have 4-full Marty flatpacks from GSG sitting in garage. They customed those to fit my UXL-18s. Anyone want my eD sealed boxes?
@Archaea just because



I’ll be ready by fall if we set a date lol
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