HTM-8 L/R and Fusion 8 center build - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 132 Old 04-07-2019, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
Looking for suggestions on how to finish the cabs. I want a nice smooth, low gloss satin black finish. I don't know if I should roll on primer, sand in between coats, just a apply a bunch of coats with no sanding, etc etc. Same goes for the paint. Roll it on? Sand coats? I don't have a paint sprayer so its either roll, brush, or spray paint. Should I use some kind of low glass lacquer for the final layer?


I used this from Lowe’s , 6” 3/8” nap roller, foam rolled suck they make bubbles. 6” is good size.
2 coats, no sanding. Then topcoat .



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post #62 of 132 Old 04-07-2019, 01:51 PM
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Thanks Erich! While you're here, question for ya. I need to cut the ports for the HTM-8 to 2" in length if Im not mistaken. Where do I measure from, the top most part of the flared opening? or below the ribbed portion that presses into the cab? I'm assuming total length including the flare should be 2". Almost ready for primer!
2" should be the total/overall length.
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post #63 of 132 Old 04-07-2019, 04:01 PM
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Topcoat, I was recommended this brand ... the best, $60 gallon, 2 coats
They have various sheens



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post #64 of 132 Old 04-07-2019, 04:04 PM
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I use this Graco hvlp



MississippiMan on avs had a link to reconditioned ones, I got my whole kit for $80


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post #65 of 132 Old 04-07-2019, 05:25 PM
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Just came Home , here’s the body that provides the hvlp air flow


Model info


If your going to do more projects consider a sprayer. This one is dirt cheap and easy to use.


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post #66 of 132 Old 04-13-2019, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Got in touch with a buddy of mine who does body work and of course therefore has spray equipment. If we can find the time to meet up and work on them, he's going to primer the speakers for me with 2K primer, then apply base clear in what we will attempt to make a satin sheen. I got to looking more closely at the cabs to make sure they are ready for primer, and, although I applied wood putty to all the seems, sanded, applied a 2nd coat and sanded again, the fine cracks in the seems don't seem to be filling well with the thick wood putty, and I'm afraid they will show through in the finished product.

Sooooo, after poking around some on the internet, I ran across the idea of diluting wood glue with water 50/50 and using it to seal the cabs and seams and rolling it on like paint. I'm in the process of applying the first coat now. Plan will be to block sand it flat after it dries, apply a second coat, then get it nice and smooth for primer. Hoping this will completely and permanently hide the seems and fill any fine cracks that the wood glue just wasn't doing. Since I'm not depending on my buddy for painting depending on his schedule, I plan to go ahead and get some primer on them this weekend if the diluted wood glue idea works well.

Has anyone used diluted wood glue to seal their speakers before primer and paint?
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post #67 of 132 Old 04-13-2019, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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About five coats of wood glue and gently blocked to 220. I think the cracks and seems are filled. The glue is quite clear so hard to SEE if they are sealed. I will do a few more coats, let dry thoroughly and block one more time to 320.
Hopefully apply primer Monday or Tuesday


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post #68 of 132 Old 04-14-2019, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Ended up with 8-10 coats of wood glue. I probably over did it but its my first time finishing wood/speakers and I figured too much was better than not enough. I tried blocking the glue down by hand with 150 or 120 and I was afraid to sand all the way through the glue to reveal the seams/cracks, but it just didn't look like I was getting things smooth....alot of orange peal I guess you could say. So, I broke out my hand orbital sander with some 80 grit and this is what was needed to sand the glue coat down nice and smooth. Then I went over it by hand with 220. I feel pretty good that this is as good as I can get the cabs ready for priming.

First coat of primer is on all but the back side.




I think I'll go with about 3-4 coats of primer then let it dry and block it. Re-apply if needed. Still hope to get this sprayed with base/clear.
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post #69 of 132 Old 04-14-2019, 09:18 AM
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post #70 of 132 Old 04-14-2019, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Gaaaaaawd the end grain is a beast to cover. Sealed with wood glue, three coats of primer down and I can still see the wood grain.

Its ok, lots of hours left in this day.
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post #71 of 132 Old 04-14-2019, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Lookin' good, Bear!

Thanks, did you attend the G2G?
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post #72 of 132 Old 04-14-2019, 04:59 PM
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Thanks, did you attend the G2G?
I did indeed. Many fantastic speakers.
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post #73 of 132 Old 04-16-2019, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Small update. After about 5-6 coats of primer on all but the back, I block sanded with 220 to a mostly smooth finish. Sanded through the primer in a few spots, edges etc. I think a mistake I used was using a LARGE sanding block that was sanding too big of an area when I needed to focus more in a specific spot. So I have a smaller hand sized block that I'll use next. Putting three coats on the back and three more on all sides other than baffle tonight. I'll block and hand sand down to 220 tomorrow to try and get everything smooth. I don't really know what I'm doing but I assume this is what is necessary to get a really smooth painted finish. If my buddy doesn't get some free time soon to spare with base clear, I suppose I'll try my hand painting. Without spray equipment, any strong recommendations for rolling on vs spray paint cans? Also, if I use a low sheen sealer, do I sand the paint before sealing?

On a positive note, I think the seams/cracks/end grain are very well covered/sealed.
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post #74 of 132 Old 04-20-2019, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Cab for the Fusion 8 center is fully assembled. I paid way too much to have it done and could have gotten out a lot cheaper just having a wood shop make a few cuts, but where I live there didn't seem to be many options. A cabinet shop assembled a cab to the specs I gave him with window braces, 3/4 ply, pocket screws and wood glue. Its finished but I'll be picking it up probably Tuesday. $100. Yes, it was on the expensive side, but I decided its not worth my time running around trying to find another place to do it cheaper, and now I have a little less time invested in assembly.

Downside, and I considered having the baffle not attached, will be to put the stuffing and crossover into the completed cab through the woofer holes. I'll manage.

So this upcoming week I'll be prepping the center for paint.
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post #75 of 132 Old 04-20-2019, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Dang this hobby, I can't help looking at the HTM-10's wondering if I should have said to hell with it and gotten those and just gotten used to the MUCH larger size.

For sale: 1 pair of assembled HTM-8's.

Just kidding. I think. . Pretty sure I'll be really happy with the 8's.
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post #76 of 132 Old 04-20-2019, 12:25 PM
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Dang this hobby, I can't help looking at the HTM-10's wondering if I should have said to hell with it and gotten those and just gotten used to the MUCH larger size.
The difference in size between the HTM-8 and HTM-10 seems pretty large at first, but then you compare the 10s to the 12s and that's a big jump!

I assume you've already seen this: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12255907e9.jpg
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post #77 of 132 Old 04-20-2019, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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The difference in size between the HTM-8 and HTM-10 seems pretty large at first, but then you compare the 10s to the 12s and that's a big jump!

I assume you've already seen this: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12255907e9.jpg
Yeah the 12's really dwarf the others and make the tens look small! I measured the 10's to see how big they would look in my space and they just really seemed too big. I suppose the absolute worst case scenario is, if I really wanted the 10's, a pair of well assembled and very nicely finished(hopefully) HTM-8's would probably sell very fast for at least what I've got in them.

It's hard to go from fairly small 6.5" bookshelves to LARGE 10" bookshelves in a modest sized living room.
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post #78 of 132 Old 04-20-2019, 01:02 PM
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Without spray equipment, any strong recommendations for rolling on vs spray paint cans? Also, if I use a low sheen sealer, do I sand the paint before sealing?

possibly this won't be the end of the rabbit hole . . .

having said that - with all the excellent prep /sealing / priming you've done,

bite the bullet and go for the durtex, maybe just a the quart, - for now

a foam roller, 4" size is good,
take a few oz. of the d and cut it about 25% with water,

then in a room with no breeze or direct sun but good lighting, get a good quick coat to cover entire surface, 1 panel at a time
there may be some bubbles
give it a minute and then with the dryer roller LIGHTLY, like with no pressure except the weight of the roller, work it over again
depending on panel size, it may be better to work across the short dimension
and when working on the next panel, re-check your results

I've had some "practice' but it can be smooth low profile fine pebble finish like on a basketball.
much easier to keep clean, wipe dust from . .

the D'tex has that thermonuclear resistant feel, kinda like that plastic Costco uses . .

HTH

HTH
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post #79 of 132 Old 04-25-2019, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Crossover assembled for the Fusion 8 center(yes, I sent the parts to Matt/MTG90 and he assembled for me).

It's going to be a couple of weeks before any more progress is made on my speakers, but here's an update on the center:

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post #80 of 132 Old 04-27-2019, 06:16 AM
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Cab for the Fusion 8 center is fully assembled. I paid way too much to have it done and could have gotten out a lot cheaper just having a wood shop make a few cuts, but where I live there didn't seem to be many options. A cabinet shop assembled a cab to the specs I gave him with window braces, 3/4 ply, pocket screws and wood glue. Its finished but I'll be picking it up probably Tuesday. $100. Yes, it was on the expensive side, but I decided its not worth my time running around trying to find another place to do it cheaper, and now I have a little less time invested in assembly.



Downside, and I considered having the baffle not attached, will be to put the stuffing and crossover into the completed cab through the woofer holes. I'll manage.



So this upcoming week I'll be prepping the center for paint.
That's super cheap...

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post #81 of 132 Old 04-27-2019, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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That's super cheap...

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Ya think? Also had him put a very small round over on all the edges for painting.


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post #82 of 132 Old 04-27-2019, 02:32 PM
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Great project and build for a fellow Pennsylvania DIY guy!


And $100 for a completed cabinet seems pretty good.
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post #83 of 132 Old 04-27-2019, 04:14 PM
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Ya think? Also had him put a very small round over on all the edges for painting.


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Yeah, not to bust your chops, but people deserve to make money with their labor. There are two setups minimum per box, his glue, his router, his bit, his sander, his sandpaper, his time. This isn't production work for him, it's essentially custom work.

DIY is great -- I've been doing it for near forty years off and on, and the results are always Superior to what I'd get commercially, but I've got no delusions about how much effort and time it takes because I always do my own work.

The only way these big companies keep costs down is manufacturing in Asia where there is little in the way of labor law and virtually no invironmental controls whatsoever.

You got a bargain -- I would have charged you twice that, and I wouldn't have had time to do it.

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post #84 of 132 Old 05-06-2019, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Back from a weeks vacation at the beach. Got a little more prep work done on the HTM-8's....lots of priming and sanding. Its been really rainy and even sanding sucks when its so wet as the dust gums up from the humidity it seems and clogs the sand paper. I "test painted" one cab with a can of satin black rustoleum spray paint, and the results are mixed. First, I'm actually surprised the finish came out as nice as it did. However, I definitely need to do some finish sanding with a finer grit before spraying. I have the 2nd HTM sanded down fairly decent to 320. I'm going to pick up some 500ish and then attempt a coat of paint and see how it looks. At this point, I think I'm going to sand them smooth enough to look pretty good, put a few quick and easy coats of satin black rattle can, and finish assembling. If my friend ever actually gets the time to help, I figure it won't be too hard to pop out the woofers and waveguides and let him finish them professionally.
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post #85 of 132 Old 05-15-2019, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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HTM-8’s are painted. Will let them dry and will finish final assembly tomorrow. F8 center is being primed today. I hope to sand and get it painted tomorrow with assembly for completion of LCR for the weekend.


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post #86 of 132 Old 05-16-2019, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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F8 center sealed with wood glue, sanded, primed, sanded, and painted. Could not assemble the HTM-8's tonight as planned as I had to paint into the wave-guide cutout more...I had it taped up too much and a smidgen of bare MDF was showing around the waveguide. So now I will work on assembly of all three tomorrow. Final completion i.e. up and running setup, calibrated by Sunday is my deadline. Game of Thrones finale party, have a bunch of friends coming over.
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post #87 of 132 Old 05-16-2019, 05:15 PM
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HTM-8’s are painted.
Can't be. There aren't any pictures.

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post #88 of 132 Old 05-16-2019, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Can't be. There aren't any pictures.


Even from this distance, you can see they are far from flawless. I think they will look good from 10 feet away lol.
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post #89 of 132 Old 05-16-2019, 06:01 PM
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Let's review . . .

yours : HTM8's and a Fusion8 CC at about 10 feet

mine: HTM6's and a Fusion6 CC at +/- 7 feet

sure your room is different TSTL as will the REQ, xo, etc.

WARNING! > be prepared to keep extra Icy-Hot around

for relief from patting your self on the back too much.

and don't be shy about experimenting with the toe-in, especially for Stereo, with subs

for maximizing for the MLP - totally worth it

hope you post your build and impressions at the DIYSG site

Try this for the detail and clarity and all other superlatives of the sound stage you are about to enjoy

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post #90 of 132 Old 05-16-2019, 06:19 PM
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Even from this distance, you can see they are far from flawless. I think they will look good from 10 feet away lol.
They look terrific from here Bear!
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