Ricci's Skram - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 87 Old 04-16-2019, 01:25 PM
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Progress. Hopefully the driver fits.
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post #62 of 87 Old 04-24-2019, 05:59 PM
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How are these coming along?
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post #63 of 87 Old 04-28-2019, 04:19 PM
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Couldn't paint today coz of a snow storm
Worked on my 2nd Skram instead
Should be able to give the Skrams a workout next weekend...
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post #64 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 08:03 AM
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Kregs, copious PL, and bracing for days. Gotta love these bombproof enclosures Looking awesome!
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post #65 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 08:54 AM
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I still never read a reasoning for PL. I used regular wood glue on my SKHorn. The bond is stronger than the wood anyways and I found it pretty easy to work with. In addition to that, you won't have to worry about the drying/hardening time when using screws additionally.
Why are most of you using PL?
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post #66 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by peniku8 View Post
I still never read a reasoning for PL. I used regular wood glue on my SKHorn. The bond is stronger than the wood anyways and I found it pretty easy to work with. In addition to that, you won't have to worry about the drying/hardening time when using screws additionally.
Why are most of you using PL?


I think for one thing it adds peace of mind that you know there’s no air leaks. It’s nice that it doesn’t run down the panel when you have to glue a piece in on the vertical. Idk I’ve always used regular wood glue but if I was building a horn or something similar I’d use PL.
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post #67 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 09:30 AM
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It does have an expanding property to fill gaps. Also, as JK mentioned, squeeze out usually forms a bead rather than a "run" of glue all the way down the panel or on the floor. Because it turns to a bead, it can be trimmed off flush with a utility knife.

With the exception of needing gloves and considering rags disposable, it is pretty good stuff for building cabs. Smear-ability is at an 11 out of 10 too haha!
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post #68 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
I think for one thing it adds peace of mind that you know there’s no air leaks. It’s nice that it doesn’t run down the panel when you have to glue a piece in on the vertical. Idk I’ve always used regular wood glue but if I was building a horn or something similar I’d use PL.
What sort of gaps do you have in your typical enclosure between panels that you need to fill them with an expanding adhesive? If the edges are straight there aren't gaps with the sorts of enclosures I've built, but admittedly I don't use the same sort of bracing methods that seem to be popular here. The only time I've felt PL was necessary was on a pair of sonotubes where partially due to the flexible nature of the cardboard and slight size variances I had doubts as to how tight the joint was consistently between the endcap and the cardboard.
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post #69 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by notfastenough View Post
It does have an expanding property to fill gaps. Also, as JK mentioned, squeeze out usually forms a bead rather than a "run" of glue all the way down the panel or on the floor. Because it turns to a bead, it can be trimmed off flush with a utility knife.

With the exception of needing gloves and considering rags disposable, it is pretty good stuff for building cabs. Smear-ability is at an 11 out of 10 too haha!
I bet you really just love the smell and the fact that it self dispenses (aka: the ooze factor).
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post #70 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 09:44 AM
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Actually, I don't really notice a smell. But tip oozing is a real thing

There are several instances where the expanding factor helps when building horns out of 1/2" plywood. Putting the side panel on is the one that can most easily get leaks and benefits from the PL.



EVERY plywood edge here is a potential loss with a small air leak and most of it can't be accessed once assembled. I'll take all the advantages I can get there!
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post #71 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 10:01 AM
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Well if you've read through my SKHorn build thread and seen my table saw you know why I usually don't worry about possible air leaks caused by imperfections
The only time I was annoyed by the wood glue was after painting the cab. The places where are tried to wipe the squeeze will look more shiny due to the smoother surface texture.


No air leaks here (I would've noticed the vinyl wrap bulging if there were any )


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post #72 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 01:59 PM
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Besides the reasons already mentioned for preferring PL, I find the quick set time of wood glue to be problematic.

Especially when you've already glued panels that may have some twist in them until a panel is added later that will force them into alignment.

Noah
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post #73 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 02:48 PM
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+1

getting that last side "right' after everything else

you only get 1 shot . . .
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post #74 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 04:18 PM
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PL is lightyears faster to build with.
Can build the box in 1/2 the time easily... add some brad nail and you can start to finish in one shot.
No ones saying wood glue doesnt work, just PL is faster and holds just as well.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #75 of 87 Old 04-29-2019, 04:19 PM
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With the exception of needing gloves
Wanted to point out this point as being no joke. The last time I used PL without gloves I was like "meh, I'll just get it off my finger afterwards". My finger was numb/tingly for a day or two after that.
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post #76 of 87 Old 05-14-2019, 08:22 AM
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This thread needs more updates and measurements of the finished product.
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post #77 of 87 Old 08-28-2019, 09:19 PM
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Can anyone send me the CNC file for the skram? I have finally found someone that will cut them after searching for several months.
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post #78 of 87 Old 08-29-2019, 06:55 AM
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This thread needs more updates and measurements of the finished product.

And someone needs to build Ricci two of those

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post #79 of 87 Old 08-29-2019, 10:41 AM
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And someone needs to build Ricci two of those
I'll get there eventually I swear! I haven't even asked around. I've got a bunch of higher priorities at the moment. Once things calm down I'll get to it.

A lot of other people seem to be cranking these out though.
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post #80 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 10:28 AM
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This thread needs more updates and measurements of the finished product.
Here is a pic of my simple 2.1 system.
Very happy with this combo, gotta say thanks to the generosity of the creator, publicly sharing this killer sub, thank you Josh!

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post #81 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 10:44 AM
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Here is a pic of my simple 2.1 system.
Very happy with this combo, gotta say thanks to the generosity of the creator, publicly sharing this killer sub, thank you Josh!

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More info on those mains... very interesting looking


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post #82 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 10:49 AM
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Tops are Danley SH50s, bottoms are Skrams, sub in the middle is a Skhorn, all with B&C 21DS115s

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post #83 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 11:23 AM
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@JESAL Nice set up! Concert Blu rays are probably better than live. What is your take on the sound signature between the SKhorn vs SKram?
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post #84 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 11:38 AM
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Tops are Danley SH50s, bottoms are Skrams, sub in the middle is a Skhorn, all with B&C 21DS115s


OMG! The dynamic must be off the chain!


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post #85 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 12:46 PM
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@gpmbc yes concerts at home, my favorite. Can't beat having the best seat in the house and sound adjusted just the way I like it.

Skhorn/Skrams pretty much have the same sound signatures. If I only have two drivers I prerer two Skrams than one Skhorn for placement/FR reasons.

Although I like how much air the Skhorn pushes out of its vents. When cranked I can feel it 10ft away
@EnderShadow yes dynamics is a bit insane with the FP20K amp, the neighbours are feeling it as much as I do... LOL


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post #86 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 06:20 PM
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Tops are Danley SH50s, bottoms are Skrams, sub in the middle is a Skhorn, all with B&C 21DS115s
If I ever make it out your way I have to get a listen to this combo. Headroom for days.
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post #87 of 87 Old 09-15-2019, 09:47 PM
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If I ever make it out your way I have to get a listen to this combo. Headroom for days.
You're most welcome man, anytime


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