Affordable ported sub flat-pack in Canada? - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 54 Old 04-01-2019, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
I understand about the wanting a lower tune I get it. That driver modeled in winisd wants a big box. Take the slot port inside box and times the height plus.75 wood thickness then the width then length then divide by 1728 that equals a little over 2 cubic ft. Take that from the internal cubic ft then there’s bracing and the driver.
A lower tune with the same size box ends up having a port around 60+ inches long which now takes up more room. When figuring all this out your first port resonance has to be still 130hz or higher and your air port velocity should be under 22 ms. It’s hard balance...
I can see what round ports would work but they would have to be 6” ports in there or else your air port velocity gets really high. Let me take a look.
Well, I measured the spaces and while I could probably squeeze an extra 1/2" of width and height and maybe even a couple inches of depth that gets to be a bit beyond my comfort zone for cab size.

I'm sure 17.5Hz tune will be just fine in my room. My previous ported subs (SVS PB10-NSD and PB12-NSD) measured - and even my current sealed subs measure - to ~16-17Hz so similar extension but with WAY more output from the UXLs should be plenty.

In which case the slot port is just fine, too.

BTW, I PM'd you with a quick question re. the front panel (baffle): 21" x 23.5".

The width (23.5") seems right: It sits between the side panels, so add 2 x 3/4" and you get 25" width.

The height (21") seems a bit tall:
- The pic shows it sitting between the port panel and the top panel.
- Add 3 x 3/4" (bottom, port and top panels) + 3" for the port rails and you get an overall height at the front of 26.25".

Could you please confirm that the height of the front panel should be 20.75"? Thanks.

(Note: It's very possible that my math is wrong, in which case I apologize for the confusion.)
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post #32 of 54 Old 04-01-2019, 09:23 PM
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Affordable ported sub flat-pack in Canada?

Edit the cut sheet was right except the slot port rails. Here’s how I figured the front.
Bottom panel .75
Port area 2.75
Panel on top of slot port .75
Now minus .75 from the top because the top panel goes across the entire depth of the box being 36” long.

Height 26”

.75
2.75
.75
.75

Equals 21” for the front panel


I sent you a message just now but just saw I put 3” for the slot port rails instead of 2.75”. All fixed now
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Last edited by eng-399; 04-01-2019 at 10:06 PM.
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post #33 of 54 Old 04-02-2019, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the confirmation. It's good to know I'm not losing my mind...
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post #34 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I e-mailed a local business (not a "big box" store) that sells wood and offers a precision-cutting service and asked them for a rough quote on:
- 3/4" MDF with all the required cuts for two boxes; and
- 3/4" baltic birch plywood with same.

The prices they quoted seem pretty reasonable. (The 18mm BB they quoted on was ~2x the price of MDF but still surprisingly inexpensive, IMO.)

As for the precision of the cuts, they said: "It is done on a table saw..accuracy to 1/16."

Is 1/16" sufficiently precise? (Seems so to me, but what do I know? ) If 'no', what should it be?

Thanks.

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post #35 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 09:41 AM
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That should be ok... I've certainly made worse cuts and worked with them!

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post #36 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
I e-mailed a local business (not a "big box" store) that sells wood and offers a precision-cutting service and asked them for a rough quote on:

- 3/4" MDF with all the required cuts for two boxes; and

- 3/4" baltic birch plywood with same.



The prices they quoted seem pretty reasonable. (The 18mm BB they quoted on was ~2x the price of MDF but still surprisingly inexpensive, IMO.)



As for the precision of the cuts, they said: "It is done on a table saw..accuracy to 1/16."



Is 1/16" sufficiently precise? (Seems so to me, but what do I know? ) If 'no', what should it be?



Thanks.
They will give themselves room on the tolerance, but typically do better than that. I told you this would be way cheaper than having them shipped!

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post #37 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 10:14 AM
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Oop
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post #38 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OJ Bartley
That should be ok... I've certainly made worse cuts and worked with them!
Good to know, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyandersen
They will give themselves room on the tolerance, but typically do better than that. I told you this would be way cheaper than having them shipped!
Also good to know and, yes, it's definitely easier on the wallet this way.

Now that I've got plans and a place that'll provide and cut MDF / BB, I just need some warm weather to transform my garage into a workshop. That may be the hardest part of this whole project!

(Not a chance. The hardest part will be trying to avoid becoming impatient and screwing things up. )
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post #39 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 12:30 PM
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Yeah, that was the same precision Owl Lumber told Mike when he built my boxes. Sounds like you found the right place to go for sure!

The weight savings using Baltic Birch on a box as large as yours will come in handy during the moving process. I recommend it.
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post #40 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCJetta
Yeah, that was the same precision Owl Lumber told Mike when he built my boxes. Sounds like you found the right place to go for sure! …
Glad to hear it!

Quote:
… The weight savings using Baltic Birch on a box as large as yours will come in handy during the moving process. I recommend it.
Thanks for the tip. Less weight is definitely a plus given that the UXL driver will add 50+ pounds to the box.
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post #41 of 54 Old 04-03-2019, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck
... the UXL driver will add 50+ pounds ...
65lbs., according to data-bass.com.

That has me thinking that I should probably double-up on the baffle (glue two 21" x 23.5" pieces of 18mm BB together). It'll eat up a bit of internal volume, but I think it's worth the trade-off. I've e-mailed the "wood place" for a revised quote.

Last edited by eljaycanuck; 04-04-2019 at 05:15 AM.
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post #42 of 54 Old 04-13-2019, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Last weekend and again today I played around with my sealed UXL-18s. Last weekend, I tried the HS12 tweak outlined in this thread but it didn't seem to work for me (post 179 on).

So today I re-positioned the seats (moved them up to ~12' from the front wall), re-calibrated, tweaked and (inexplicably?) things are VERY different and SO MUCH better!

I ran Audyssey with the iNuke in default setting (red line, attached pic), left subs at Audyssey cal (-12dB), then added 6dB of boost at 60Hz on the iNuke and I'm flat down to ~15.5Hz (green line, attached pic).

I ran some demo stuff at around -10dB with DEQ on and the subs are kicking ass! Lots of deep bass and good mid-bass, too.

Given the difference between the levels set last weekend and today, I really can't explain the (seemingly) night-and-day difference. I suppose moving up the seats had something to do with it but, still, it's pretty surprising.

Long story short: For the time being at least, I won't be going ahead with the ported cabs. (I'll keep eng-399's info on hand, though, just in case.)

I will, however, be doing the iNuke fan mod next weekend (a pair of Noctua fans is on the way from amazon.ca).

Thanks to everyone - and especially eng-399 - for their input and help.
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Last edited by eljaycanuck; 04-13-2019 at 06:57 PM.
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post #43 of 54 Old 04-13-2019, 05:49 PM
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Thats great news! I hope I'm able to do something similar. I haven't played with placement at all yet. Really glad to hear you're getting the results you wanted.

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post #44 of 54 Old 04-13-2019, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey, OJ. Thanks for that, and for your input on the fan swap.

Last edited by eljaycanuck; 04-14-2019 at 04:17 AM.
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post #45 of 54 Old 04-14-2019, 05:37 AM
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Any time. You won't believe how quiet it gets after the fan swap. It's ridiculous. They probably wouldn't be strong enough to use for a bunch of PA speakers at a club or something, but I think they're adequate for the periodic peaks we generate with HT use.

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post #46 of 54 Old 04-19-2019, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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OJ, you weren't kidding! Not only was the fan swap ridiculously easy to do, but I actually laughed out loud in amazement at how quiet the new fans were when I powered up the amp. Unbelievable!

(Front of SPL meter is 2' away from amp. Dunno if the dB values tell the whole story but the noise level went from stock iNuke loudness to completely inaudible.)
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post #47 of 54 Old 04-19-2019, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
Last weekend and again today I played around with my sealed UXL-18s. Last weekend, I tried the HS12 tweak outlined in this thread but it didn't seem to work for me (post 179 on).



So today I re-positioned the seats (moved them up to ~12' from the front wall), re-calibrated, tweaked and (inexplicably?) things are VERY different and SO MUCH better!



I ran Audyssey with the iNuke in default setting (red line, attached pic), left subs at Audyssey cal (-12dB), then added 6dB of boost at 60Hz on the iNuke and I'm flat down to ~15.5Hz (green line, attached pic).



I ran some demo stuff at around -10dB with DEQ on and the subs are kicking ass! Lots of deep bass and good mid-bass, too.



Given the difference between the levels set last weekend and today, I really can't explain the (seemingly) night-and-day difference. I suppose moving up the seats had something to do with it but, still, it's pretty surprising.



Long story short: For the time being at least, I won't be going ahead with the ported cabs. (I'll keep eng-399's info on hand, though, just in case.)



I will, however, be doing the iNuke fan mod next weekend (a pair of Noctua fans is on the way from amazon.ca).



Thanks to everyone - and especially eng-399 - for their input and help.


I hope you order the PWM version of the Noctua. 10% more airflow and 10 or 15% higher static pressure. About 1 dB louder but the better cooling is worth it IMO.


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post #48 of 54 Old 04-19-2019, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I got the NF-A8 FLX. $20/ea. x 2. I ran a couple of demo clips and the air coming out the front was nice and cool (and dead silent).
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post #49 of 54 Old 04-19-2019, 04:24 PM
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I got the NF-A8 FLX. $20/ea. x 2. I ran a couple of demo clips and the air coming out the front was nice and cool (and dead silent).
I've run the same in my HTPC and nu3000d for over a year now and have been very happy with them. Hope they continue to work as well for you.
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post #50 of 54 Old 05-21-2020, 11:20 AM
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I realize this is an old post - but wondering if anyone knows of a canadian company that makes / sells subwoofer flat packs --- or perhaps know of a good place where I can get plans on how to create a subwoofer box?
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post #51 of 54 Old 05-28-2020, 04:03 AM
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Lyle I would recommend starting a new thread and include all the particulars regarding what you need I.E. how much cash will you spend, what are the exact dimensions of the box that you can deal with etc. etc.
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post #52 of 54 Old 05-28-2020, 09:31 AM
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Thank you - I was able to find a local company willing to assist with the build of the new subwoofer kit - now just trying to finalize the design.
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post #53 of 54 Old 05-28-2020, 09:39 AM
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Thank you - I was able to find a local company willing to assist with the build of the new subwoofer kit - now just trying to finalize the design.
When you get the results, would you be so kind as to send me a pm? I am in Ottawa with the same problem...
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post #54 of 54 Old 05-28-2020, 10:16 AM
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Absolutely - will do --- I lived in Ottawa (Kanata, Orleans, Glebe, etc..) for about 20 plus years --- fabulous city!
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