Jk’s htm-8, mbm-12 towers - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 282 Old 05-06-2019, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Those look fantastic. I assume these will be at the GTG? Looking forward to hearing them.


Yes they will be.
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post #122 of 282 Old 05-06-2019, 12:20 PM
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Man those look great!! Can’t wait to see how they’re finished. If you’re still taking votes; here’s another for Waterlox.


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post #123 of 282 Old 05-06-2019, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Man those look great!! Can’t wait to see how they’re finished. If you’re still taking votes; here’s another for Waterlox.


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Yeah, I’m planning on waterlox at this point. I think these big towers would be too ugly in ebony stain. The wood grain just looks so good with just a few coats of waterlox. It makes all the effort worth it to match up grain and get everything perfect.
Thanks for the compliment.
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post #124 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Jk’s htm-8, mbm-12 towers

I finally had some time to my project. Mounted the crossovers, and glued up the tops. Tomorrow they will be ready to sand and prep for veneer.
Got these glued up too
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post #125 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 04:17 PM
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Got these glued up too
Wait, what?? Another set of HTM-8s?

Hope you didn't get the last of the flat packs, I'm waiting on my single HTM-8 order to ship (for use as a center in the living room with the 10s...)

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post #126 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
Wait, what?? Another set of HTM-8s?



Hope you didn't get the last of the flat packs, I'm waiting on my single HTM-8 order to ship (for use as a center in the living room with the 10s...)


Well, this is what happened. I’ve had the flat packs since I ordered the last batch of stuff. The htm8’s and the mbm 12’s and the closeout 15’s. After realizing I wasn’t gonna use the flat packs because I built custom cabs, I ordered HT-8’s to put together and I will have them around at the gtg to compare to the htm-8’s. That should be fun.
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post #127 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 05:53 PM
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Nice update.



Where did you mount the crossovers in the cabinets?
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post #128 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice update.



Where did you mount the crossovers in the cabinets?


In the woofer compartment. There just wasn’t enough room in the htm part. I had to drill a hole through the back wall of the htm compartment, passed the wires through, and made a good seal with panel adhesive on both sides.
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post #129 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 06:11 PM
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I ordered HT-8’s to.

Oh, so you’re the reason why I can’t order my HT8 LCRs! lol



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post #130 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, so you’re the reason why I can’t order my HT8 LCRs! lol



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Get HT-10’s.
You’re welcome
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post #131 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 06:49 PM
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Get HT-10’s.
You’re welcome


Lol. Actually I’m kinda thinking about it.


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post #132 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 07:06 PM
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What's a couple more dollars and just get the 12s and be done with it?
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post #133 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 07:07 PM
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Lol. Actually I’m kinda thinking about it.


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Do it!!!!
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post #134 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig S King View Post
What's a couple more dollars and just get the 12s and be done with it?


Can’t fit those where I need them right now.


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post #135 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 07:11 PM
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Do it!!!!


Lol. I more than likely will.


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post #136 of 282 Old 05-14-2019, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig S King
What's a couple more dollars and just get the 12s and be done with it?
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Can’t fit those where I need them right now.
I did the same dance, back and forth between the 10s and 12s. After seeing JC's 12s at Mike's GTG last month, I'm glad I went with the 10s. The 12s are so much larger in person! Wouldn't have worked in our living room.

The 10s have been great, you won't regret going with them. I'm currently building new A/V stands to incorporate an HTM-8 center, but apparently Jared purchased all the flatpacks for them, so I'll have to wait a bit longer...
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post #137 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Got up early. Glued up the HT8 baffles. Tonight I’m gonna start the dreaded sanding process.
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post #138 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 04:01 PM - Thread Starter
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This evening I sanded the ht-8 cabs, and took all of my previous project veneer scraps and cut each panel to match as close as possible with the surrounding pieces. Knowing the bottoms and backs don’t matter. I put the empty sanded cabs over the curly veneer to try and flatten it out for a while. Maybe I’ll get to veneer on those this weekend. And hopefully have the htm-8 cabs sanded out and ready for veneer next weekend or so.
Oh, and for the ht-8’s, I am doing the ebony dark stain, topped with waterlox, just to see if I love it. And the HT8’s have radius baffles, so I’m trying my hand at that. Hopefully I can veneer up to that edge and come back to it with duratex. It should look good.
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post #139 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 05:49 PM
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More good progress Jk! I'm hoping to start veneering my Cinema Towers soon too.


But you've got a lot more motivation and ambition than me... I'm not willing to get up early for my speakers!
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post #140 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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More good progress Jk! I'm hoping to start veneering my Cinema Towers soon too.


But you've got a lot more motivation and ambition than me... I'm not willing to get up early for my speakers!


Hahaha. Truth be told, my internal clock is all messed up from being in London last week. So I’ve been waking up an hour early or so every day! What else could I do but work on speakers!
I did fill all the screw holes on the towers since my last post. And I did some extra wood filler work on the baffles just to make sure it all sands smooth easily.
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post #141 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 06:05 PM
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Now, if you're doing a veneer over the MDF, why do you need to fill screw holes and do all the sanding? Won't the veneer cover it up?
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post #142 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 06:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Now, if you're doing a veneer over the MDF, why do you need to fill screw holes and do all the sanding? Won't the veneer cover it up?


The countersunk screw holes need to be filled. Veneer is only as good as the substrate. I sand and fill everything smooth as if I was painting it. Prep work is everything! You know those beautiful braces we make that are never seen? Prepping the cab to receive veneer is something well worth the effort. Even though it does technically get covered up.
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post #143 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 06:18 PM
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That's good info to know. I'll keep that in mind when prepping to veneer mine. Thanks
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post #144 of 282 Old 05-15-2019, 06:22 PM
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Now, if you're doing a veneer over the MDF, why do you need to fill screw holes and do all the sanding? Won't the veneer cover it up?
Screw (and other large) holes need to be filled, otherwise that area under the gap will bubble. Or, it will sag as the adhesive on the veneer is drawn to the adhesive within the gap. For laminate/veneer the surface doesn't have to be perfectly flat, but it needs to be without voids such as screw holes to maintain flat.

Edges are another concern, as they can shrink/swell with the humidity levels. Best-case scenario is all panels are sanded to smooth and covered in the same (moderate) humidity level. Assuming all other surfaces are sealed (paint in the driver recesses, driver seals are good, any gaps in the speaker wire contact area, etc.) this should greatly reduce/eliminate the possibility of the substrate expanding/contracting to the point that it could show delaminations.

Having said all that, it requires fairly big swings in humidity levels to cause delaminations, assuming the proper amount of substrate prep work and contact adhesive are applied.
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post #145 of 282 Old 05-17-2019, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I got the ht-8’s veneered. I finally learned something. It’s far better to tape off (carefully so you don’t damage the raw veneer) where you don’t want any contact cement, and then roll out the glue. Then before it gets to tacked up, remove the tape. This saves edge work like crazy. I was always having to sand and sand the edge. Not realizing it was the dang glue I was sanding off. Dugh
I also coated the veneer with a penetrating stain called ‘true black’. I think I’m gonna love this. It’s black as night. Yet it is still transparent, though not much grain shows. But being the leftover veneer from my last project, it’s perfect.
Tell me what you guys think of the finish.
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post #146 of 282 Old 05-18-2019, 09:19 AM
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I got the ht-8’s veneered. I finally learned something. It’s far better to tape off (carefully so you don’t damage the raw veneer) where you don’t want any contact cement, and then roll out the glue. Then before it gets to tacked up, remove the tape. This saves edge work like crazy. I was always having to sand and sand the edge. Not realizing it was the dang glue I was sanding off. Dugh

Cabinets look great, nice job. This gives me more motivation to get mine veneered. However, I'm not sure I understand what you were explaining about using the tape? Do you mean you were using the tape to protect the sides that were already veneered, from adhesive that squished out from a perpendicular side?
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post #147 of 282 Old 05-18-2019, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Cabinets look great, nice job. This gives me more motivation to get mine veneered. However, I'm not sure I understand what you were explaining about using the tape? Do you mean you were using the tape to protect the sides that were already veneered, from adhesive that squished out from a perpendicular side?


Yes exactly. So when you sand the edge, there’s no glue there guming up the sand paper.
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post #148 of 282 Old 05-18-2019, 10:53 AM
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Those are [email protected]@king real nice.

What are you going to use as your finish coat (sealer?.)

The finish coat may enhance the grain. IMHO, for ME I like the grain details on darker woods/stains.

Keep up the exceptional work Jared.........always enjoy reading about your projects.
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post #149 of 282 Old 05-18-2019, 10:55 AM
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Cabinets look great, nice job. This gives me more motivation to get mine veneered. However, I'm not sure I understand what you were explaining about using the tape? Do you mean you were using the tape to protect the sides that were already veneered, from adhesive that squished out from a perpendicular side?
Yes, you should do the same sort of thing for Baltic Birch cabs if you were going to stain them when gluing them up. I usually run the fat painter's tape over the joint lengthwise before putting glue on it and then run a razor blade to cut the tape exactly on the seam between them. This is so any glue that squeezes out of the joint can't soak into the exposed edges an cause finishing problems later.
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post #150 of 282 Old 05-18-2019, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Those are [email protected]@king real nice.



What are you going to use as your finish coat (sealer?.)


I’m gonna give the stain a few days to cure, then cover it with waterlox. I also have arm-r-seal here I could use.
Thanks for following along!
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