GSG Martycube finishing with Wilsonart laminate - what for front baffle? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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GSG Martycube finishing with Wilsonart laminate - what for front baffle?

Hi all,

I have my first gsg martycube together. It went together easily and without incident. I am thinking of doing Wilsonart laminate on the sides and the top. I'm not sure what do do to the front baffle due to how it's constructed. On the front, there is the port and the removable baffle.

Should I use one piece for the whole front and use the router to cut out for the driver and the port? Or, should I just prime and paint the front and use laminate on the removable baffle?

This is my first time using laminate, so I'm still learning. I'm probably going to go with gloss black or possibly a wood grain to match some of my other furniture.
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post #2 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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also anyone have a parts express part number for the speaker terminal cup?
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post #3 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 09:22 PM
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GSG Martycube finishing with Wilsonart laminate - what for front baffle?

092-054 is the one noted in the gsg shopping list - that’s what I bought but I am not at that stage of my build yet.

Page 7 in this...

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/18...cklist_v33.pdf


Edit: that’s for speakon and for 5way binding post they recommend 260-309
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post #4 of 31 Old 04-18-2019, 09:53 AM
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GSG Martycube finishing with Wilsonart laminate - what for front baffle?

@rr14 Check out this sweet Marty cube build with laminate. I believe this person used one sheet for the front and then cut out everything after it was applied. Not sure if the GSG version with the little pins for the interchangeable baffle would cause any problems though.

Post # 24 for the finished build pics.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...2983828?page=4

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post #5 of 31 Old 04-18-2019, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! I read that one a few times previously. Awesome build. If I could get mine to turn out like that I would be very happy.

I’ve also been watching the YouTube video build over and over of the parts express enclosure with the ultimate. That has been very helpful as well.

For now I just need to decide on color of the laminate and then let her rip!
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post #6 of 31 Old 04-18-2019, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rr14 View Post
Thanks! I read that one a few times previously. Awesome build. If I could get mine to turn out like that I would be very happy.

I’ve also been watching the YouTube video build over and over of the parts express enclosure with the ultimate. That has been very helpful as well.

For now I just need to decide on color of the laminate and then let her rip!

I I think they said it was their first time laminating too! You seem to be doing the legwork, so I’m sure yours will turn out great. Good luck!

Speakers: PSA MTM-210T x2, MTM-210C, MT-110SR x2; Atmos-SVS Satellite x2, DIY Volt-10 x2
Subs: PSA V1801 x2, DIY: 18" RSS460HO, 15" RSS390HO x2, BOSS w/JBL CX1200 x6
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post #7 of 31 Old 04-19-2019, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbrik View Post
092-054 is the one noted in the gsg shopping list - that’s what I bought but I am not at that stage of my build yet.

Page 7 in this...

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/18...cklist_v33.pdf


Edit: that’s for speakon and for 5way binding post they recommend 260-309
thanks. Kevin confirmed. I ordered them today.
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post #8 of 31 Old 04-19-2019, 06:17 PM
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Im not sold on laminate for a GSG kit.

GSG Full Marty Build: https://youtu.be/-U1deD_0j9c
UM18-22 Sealed Subwoofer Build: https://youtu.be/7ifac8Rh8gk
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post #9 of 31 Old 04-19-2019, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexus99 View Post
Im not sold on laminate for a GSG kit.


There was a question in that?
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post #10 of 31 Old 04-20-2019, 01:09 PM
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given the surface to show around the driver,
depending on the "decor" factor,
this looked sweet :http://www.formica.com/us/~/media/no...h=100&w=62&s=2

YMMV

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post #11 of 31 Old 04-25-2019, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexus99 View Post
Im not sold on laminate for a GSG kit.

I'd love to hear more. Is it because if the baffle surface isn't completely level with the "sides" then it'll be weird or something along those lines?

I know it likely isn't ideal and I'm still trying to formulate ideas. i thought about laminate on the sides and top, but was left with the question "what about the rectangle around the front face?" I thought about painting it matte black or flat black. Once I got beyond that, I was thinking about what to do with the baffle.

I'm not really interested in painting because I just don't get the results with the quality of work I do versus the laminate. I've done duratex before but I need something that will look better for the wife and blend in with a bunch of built in cabinets in the room.
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post #12 of 31 Old 04-29-2019, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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nexus99 thoughts on the laminate? Holding off on ordering to hear the opposing opinion or feedback. I've watched your video a few times now and am curious.
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post #13 of 31 Old 04-29-2019, 02:00 PM
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@rr14

post some pics of the decorating challenges
and possibilities you are considering . .

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
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post #14 of 31 Old 04-29-2019, 02:18 PM
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^^ +1. What's the problem that needs solving?
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post #15 of 31 Old 04-29-2019, 10:20 PM - Thread Starter
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hi guys. There are channels (about 1/8" grooves) that are a consideration. The baffle is designed to be removable; it'll be hard to keep it this way with laminate. Here are a few photos
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post #16 of 31 Old 04-30-2019, 06:19 AM
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TY for the detailed pics, it shows the need for finesse / creativity

especially as that line /dado /groove is only at the top of the panel

could some delicate work with a table saw / router allow a blades/ bits "thickness" trim on the left/right/ bottom edges to create that spacing or the look of it / a minor dado on all 4 edges?

if so, then that's a step toward uniformity.
while it sounds like a PITA, it will provide either an accent or transition "line" between the cabinet edges and that front showpiece panel.
next is to find a thin flat headed security or elevator or carriage bolt to be recessed flush into the front of the panel. i.e. not using the supplied bolts.
a recessed nut on the backside will prevent any spinout issues.
it is a permanent install.

you use the same internal wingnut /washer attachment setup
so it can now be uniformly / completely veneered / formica'd .

personally, not having the bolts/capheads showing > a better look ?

why am I thinking of the classic Frankenstein "bolts showing in your neck" meme while composing this ?
that look isn't for just anybody . . . or any sub I'd want to occasionally look at without cracking up- JS

now, about that "fitting in with the decor" issue . . .

what should / must that look like?

presumably, you're not putting these subs in "The Laboratory" for tunes while you're waiting for a lightning storm . .

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post #17 of 31 Old 05-04-2019, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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ordered the laminate from home depot yesterday. I ordered the 5 x 12 for about $145 in a mahogany type color to match the stuff in the room it's going into.

As far as trimming the edges, any tips or suggestions? I saw/heard the tip from the video about having the depth on the router to be barely enough to cut through the piece so as not the cut the piece next to it on the neighboring panel.

i have a flush trim bit from a "bargain" type set. Should I spend the money and buy a newer, nicer one? My thought is that one without as much wear may cut better or cleaner.
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post #18 of 31 Old 05-04-2019, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rr14 View Post
As far as trimming the edges, any tips or suggestions? I saw/heard the tip from the video about having the depth on the router to be barely enough to cut through the piece so as not the cut the piece next to it on the neighboring panel.

i have a flush trim bit from a "bargain" type set. Should I spend the money and buy a newer, nicer one? My thought is that one without as much wear may cut better or cleaner.
I use these for the initial flush cuts https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-51...9K6H5RK5VSTBEB

Then this one on edges that meet another laminated surface (think top meeting side) https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Solid-C...KS69D7HXD&th=1

Then file the edges to smooth them up (laminate can be very sharp).

Quote:
Originally Posted by rr14
hi guys. There are channels (about 1/8" grooves) that are a consideration. The baffle is designed to be removable; it'll be hard to keep it this way with laminate. Here are a few photos
Do you feel you would ever remove the outer baffle? If not, were it me I would permanently set all the panels, then simply fill that ~1/8" groove with wood filler. Sand it down, laminate over everything, done.
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post #19 of 31 Old 07-04-2019, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Just ordered those bits. Do I need to fill the groove or will the laminate effectively cover it up?
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post #20 of 31 Old 07-10-2019, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got started on the laminate. I have it on one side of one of the boxes. I’m going to break out the router bits when I get off work and then try to do another side of the box. I’m starting with the sides and getting to the top and front face last.
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post #21 of 31 Old 07-13-2019, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I’m learning the ropes. I’ve made a few mistakes but fortunately I started with the least visible panels first. I’m working up to the front face. The baffle is now permanently fixed.

A few things... using the router bit listed above, I’m getting some slight scratching on the veneer surface. Any suggestions on that? I haven’t used the 7’ bit yet. Any tips on input would be great. Here are a few photos of the work.
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post #22 of 31 Old 07-13-2019, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rr14 View Post
Well, I’m learning the ropes. I’ve made a few mistakes but fortunately I started with the least visible panels first. I’m working up to the front face. The baffle is now permanently fixed.

A few things... using the router bit listed above, I’m getting some slight scratching on the veneer surface. Any suggestions on that? I haven’t used the 7’ bit yet. Any tips on input would be great. Here are a few photos of the work.
A few tricks:

* Don't push the bit into the laminate too hard. Just enough to keep it on track, letting the bit do the work.
* The more overhang you are trying to take off at once, the more likely you'll see scratches like those. Try to take off no more than 1/4" (might have to do multiple passes).
* Make sure the router base stays flat on the surface.
* Run a strip or 2 of painter's tape along the surface where the bit will meet the laminate and/or spray a bit of silicon lube on that surface before trimming.

I deburr my bits before using them, as even with the above tricks the "bearing" portion is not usually smooth. Not for the faint of heart. I spin it in my drill press set at high speed, carefully put a file to it. Then I run it on some softer wood such as pine or poplar, see if I get any scratches like those you are seeing.

A Sharpie will darken that scratch up. As will silicon spray, although the Sharpie is more permanent.
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post #23 of 31 Old 07-14-2019, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the tips! I made a small amount of progress today.

I was having some issues with the contact cement I'm using. I think it's called Weldwood from Dap. It is a non-flammable version that I believe is used here in CA. What I found is that this stuff isn't sticky. When you hear about contact cement, people often say make sure you have everything positioned good because once the surfaces touch, they're together. With this stuff, that definately is not the case. I really had to work with a 2 1/2" roller to get enough pressure on it to grab. Just laying the two surfaces together was not nearly enough.

I used a layer of frog tape right below the joint I was hitting with the router bit. It seems a bit better. I noticed some of the line is just residue from the contact cement. I was able to clean up a bit of it, but there are still some areas where there is a line. On the section I did today, it is noticably lighter, so the tips must have helped along with me getting more experience.

So far it looks pretty good. I'm pretty okay with how it turned out considering this was my first project. Right now I have some weights on the piece I attached today.

How long should I keep pressure on this stuff? I read the instructions and it said that the stuff reached maximum strength after a 7 day cure. I don't plan on keeping it weighted nearly that long should I shoot for? Once again, I don't have 100% confidence that this stuff grabbed everywhere so I want to do what i can to make it as strong as possible. Thoughts?

I did inspect the edges and found a few small areas that weren't stuck together enough. I hit them with a great deal of pressure while rolling and it seems that they're better now. I have weight on them now too.
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post #24 of 31 Old 07-15-2019, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rr14 View Post
... I think it's called Weldwood from Dap. It is a non-flammable version that I believe is used here in CA.
It may be too late, but you can still get the red can of original Dap Weldwood in California. I don't see any available online at my local HD, but the Lowes shows them in stock and I know I've seen it there myself recently.

As for tips: I think smcmillan2 got you covered pretty well. When I did mine, I tested it on a piece and didn't like the scratches. Used a regular trim bit with a bearing and had better results with apparently no negative consequences. Also used the masking tape.

And I'd weigh those sides down as long as possible and then move on. AFAIK, the bond should really be instant with no forgiveness. After I laid my pieces together and rolled them hard, I never had a problem. Didn't have to weigh it down, but it's better to err on the side of caution. Redoing this would be no fun.

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post #25 of 31 Old 07-15-2019, 07:13 PM
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I've never been happy with how the non-flammable contact adhesive sets up, much prefer the flammable. The non-flammable is best applied in low humidity conditions, and can take quite a bit longer to set up.

Also never had to weight anything down. You're applying the adhesive to the laminate and the substrate, and allowing it to dry to the touch? Be sure to get a little extra on the edges, as that is where it would be most likely to delaminate. Use the roller multiple times, especially on the edges. With the non-flam you might want to let it sit overnight and hit it with the roller again.
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post #26 of 31 Old 07-15-2019, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I’ll check out Lowe’s. This stuff was from there. It was $9.97 down from $39. I don’t recall seeing other stuff but then again I didn’t look all that hard. I’m doing another one of these boxes so I’ll use the red stuff on the 2nd box if I can find it
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post #27 of 31 Old 07-15-2019, 10:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
I've never been happy with how the non-flammable contact adhesive sets up, much prefer the flammable. The non-flammable is best applied in low humidity conditions, and can take quite a bit longer to set up.

Also never had to weight anything down. You're applying the adhesive to the laminate and the substrate, and allowing it to dry to the touch? Be sure to get a little extra on the edges, as that is where it would be most likely to delaminate. Use the roller multiple times, especially on the edges. With the non-flam you might want to let it sit overnight and hit it with the roller again.
Yup I was having all kinds of trouble getting it to adhere to each other. You definitely have to let this stuff sit quite a bit longer than the other stuff that I see people using. There were points where I couldn’t even get it to adhere together even hitting it with the roller.

The jug says 60-70 minutes. It was a little humid but it was also about 90’ this past weekend so I was hoping it would setup quicker. But it didn’t...

I’m thinking I’ll toss some on before work and then start doing my 2nd coat when I get home and then give it an hour and a half or so...

Kind of a pain to wait this long.
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post #28 of 31 Old 07-16-2019, 11:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Went to Lowe’s and only saw 6 oz bottles of the red. I’m going to try to swing by a wood specialty store to see what they have.

Lowe’s is selling the quarts for $19 of the non flammable; I got my gallon for $10
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post #29 of 31 Old 07-16-2019, 11:27 PM - Thread Starter
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And so I got anxious and wanted to toss the speaker in my room. I tossed in some pillows, mounted the driver and the speaker terminal and fired it up.

I definitely need to hit it with a brown sharpie along the seams to hide the adhesive. All in all, so far I’m pretty happy with the look.

Although these are Marty cubes and the smallest of the marries,, they’re still pretty big even in my 20 by 20 room.

Just listening for 5 minutes with no setup at all. I can tell that two of these is going to be pretty darn impressive. Rest of the setup is denon 4400, Polk lsim 707’s and an I nuke driving these
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post #30 of 31 Old Yesterday, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rr14 View Post
I definitely need to hit it with a brown sharpie along the seams to hide the adhesive. All in all, so far I’m pretty happy with the look
I clean my laminate up with acetone. Takes care of all that adhesive, but be warned it is highly flammable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rr14
Just listening for 5 minutes with no setup at all. I can tell that two of these is going to be pretty darn impressive.
Nice!
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