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post #1 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 04:32 AM - Thread Starter
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1099 build

Are there documented instructions on building and assembling any diy speakers?

It all seems kinda self explanatory but I've never built a speaker....never really looked inside a speaker ...or done much wood working ever.... especially finish work.

A simple step sheet showing best practices of where to drill holes...where to mount xover...what type of absorption material works best and where to put it....type of wire to use and wire goes where.. after glueing the packs together what's the best next step.....well you get the point

I'm sure I'll figure this all out but would be nice to have a guide

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post #2 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Beginning of the 1099 x3

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post #3 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 11:47 AM
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Gotta love the flatpacks!

Many of the questions in your original post are already covered on the DIYSG site, under "Helpful Notes"
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-t...sive-1099.html
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post #4 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 12:19 PM
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Keep the denim away from the port areas

Carry on

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post #5 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Keep the denim away from the port areas

Carry on
I trimmed the sides so it didn't interfere. Then on the bottom I thinned it out so the ports would rest against it but not block them.

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post #6 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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One finished with denim.

Question...is it ok to have the denim interfering with the mid-range? It will be kinda smashed up against it...see photo....unless I trim it.


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post #7 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 03:15 PM
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As long as it is not pushing into the frame and touching the back side of the midrange cones it should be ok.
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post #8 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 03:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok thanks.....another question...Ive been trying to use 12 awg speaker wire that I had to wire up the xovers. Not working too well.

What awg is recommended for internal wiring? 14? 16?

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post #9 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 04:25 PM
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I've used 14Ga in all my DIYSG builds without issue.

The only time I use 12Ga is when I'm running wires to subs.
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post #10 of 56 Old 04-28-2019, 05:09 PM
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14 or 16 is fine
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post #11 of 56 Old 04-30-2019, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Dizzy from the spray glue fumes...

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post #12 of 56 Old 04-30-2019, 07:15 PM
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Nice progress so far. I'm envious.
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post #13 of 56 Old 04-30-2019, 07:40 PM
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1099 build

Keep it up. They are worth the effort

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post #14 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisismyname123 View Post
Are there documented instructions on building and assembling any diy speakers?

It all seems kinda self explanatory but I've never built a speaker....never really looked inside a speaker ...or done much wood working ever.... especially finish work.
Hmmm, and in 1 day you are testing finished crossovers and finalizing the boxes!?

It doesn't look like you need too much help to me!

Don't forget to enjoy the process and have your wife take a photo of you working on them so you can prove you are now a certified closet high-end speaker builder.

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post #15 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 02:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kagtha View Post
Hmmm, and in 1 day you are testing finished crossovers and finalizing the boxes!?

It doesn't look like you need too much help to me!

Don't forget to enjoy the process and have your wife take a photo of you working on them so you can prove you are now a certified closet high-end speaker builder.

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Ha...well that was day 2 buy who's counting.

It would still be nice to have a complete set of guidelines I think. Had to do a lot of online searching and several trips to the store for stuff I didn't think I needed

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post #16 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 05:44 AM
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Ha...well that was day 2 buy who's counting.

It would still be nice to have a complete set of guidelines I think. Had to do a lot of online searching and several trips to the store for stuff I didn't think I needed

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Good job so far.
I will leave some constructive criticism. Your lining is good but you will need to mount the cross over board yet. I had mounted mine in the center chamber. Once mounted you will need to drill holes to get the woofer wires to the other chambers. I had used a good glue to seal these holes once wire had been passed through. The last thing I noticed was on your cross over board, the stand offs that Erich supplies are in wrong. Pull them out and turn around, so the longer leg is on the bottom.


You have done a great job so far but just wanted to point out some things that I thought might help you. You will love these once you have listened to them over an extended period.


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post #17 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 07:03 AM
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Good job so far.
I will leave some constructive criticism. Your lining is good but you will need to mount the cross over board yet. I had mounted mine in the center chamber. Once mounted you will need to drill holes to get the woofer wires to the other chambers. I had used a good glue to seal these holes once wire had been passed through. The last thing I noticed was on your cross over board, the stand offs that Erich supplies are in wrong. Pull them out and turn around, so the longer leg is on the bottom.


You have done a great job so far but just wanted to point out some things that I thought might help you. You will love these once you have listened to them over an extended period.

Good catches. Youll still be able to rout the wires but it will just be a bit more of a pain/mess. make sure you take the red and black wires out of that jacket before you rout them through the box walls. The jacket acts as a straw and wont let you get a good seal. That middle section needs to be air tight everywhere. silicone the crap out of the entry/exit holes for the wires.

I used poly fluff in the middle section. I buy the cheap pillows at Walmart for it. they are less than $3 each. stuff it full but not to where the drivers/horn are compressing it when installed.

Another thing I like to do.... just on the baffle. Sometimes everything is not perfectly flush as far as the surfaces on the front where the baffle will be glued to. Even if i use wood glue for everything else, I like to use Loctite PL Premium to glue the baffle on so it fills in any little gaps. It expands and it is super strong. It also does not come off anything including your cloths and skin so where old cloths and rubber gloves when using it!! it comes in squeeze tubes and caulk gun tubes

Also, do not wipe the PL Premium off! let it squeeze out and then after it dries, just scrape it right off with a putty knife.

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post #18 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCRSS View Post
Good job so far.
I will leave some constructive criticism. Your lining is good but you will need to mount the cross over board yet. I had mounted mine in the center chamber. Once mounted you will need to drill holes to get the woofer wires to the other chambers. I had used a good glue to seal these holes once wire had been passed through. The last thing I noticed was on your cross over board, the stand offs that Erich supplies are in wrong. Pull them out and turn around, so the longer leg is on the bottom.


You have done a great job so far but just wanted to point out some things that I thought might help you. You will love these once you have listened to them over an extended period.

Thanks for the feedback. I already drilled the holes between the 2 chambers and cut away the denim in the areas to clear the space. I noticed everything will be a tight fit down in there....I need smaller hands!

Will flip around those white stand offs...thanks.....see that's why there should be a manual!
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post #19 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post
Good catches. Youll still be able to rout the wires but it will just be a bit more of a pain/mess. make sure you take the red and black wires out of that jacket before you rout them through the box walls. The jacket acts as a straw and wont let you get a good seal. That middle section needs to be air tight everywhere. silicone the crap out of the entry/exit holes for the wires.

I used poly fluff in the middle section. I buy the cheap pillows at Walmart for it. they are less than $3 each. stuff it full but not to where the drivers/horn are compressing it when installed.

Another thing I like to do.... just on the baffle. Sometimes everything is not perfectly flush as far as the surfaces on the front where the baffle will be glued to. Even if i use wood glue for everything else, I like to use Loctite PL Premium to glue the baffle on so it fills in any little gaps. It expands and it is super strong. It also does not come off anything including your cloths and skin so where old cloths and rubber gloves when using it!! it comes in squeeze tubes and caulk gun tubes

Also, do not wipe the PL Premium off! let it squeeze out and then after it dries, just scrape it right off with a putty knife.
Thanks, will take of the white wire jacket.

I bought a bag of poly fill...that can just go on top of the crossover? what about underneath the crossover, should there be any or just put that mounted on the bare mdf?
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post #20 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 09:48 AM
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Thanks, will take of the white wire jacket.

I bought a bag of poly fill...that can just go on top of the crossover? what about underneath the crossover, should there be any or just put that mounted on the bare mdf?
yep. It can go right on top of the crossover. dont put anything underneath the crossover.
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post #21 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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What are you guys using for spade connectors to the drivers?

I bought these and they are too loose...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #22 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisismyname123 View Post
What are you guys using for spade connectors to the drivers?

I bought these and they are too loose...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use the same. Just pinch them a bit with pliers. Then struggle to get them attached... But they work.
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post #23 of 56 Old 05-01-2019, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I use the same. Just pinch them a bit with pliers. Then struggle to get them attached... But they work.
Hmm. I had a few I got from home Depot and they were a lot tighter. I'll play around with them


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post #24 of 56 Old 05-02-2019, 12:16 PM
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What are you guys using for spade connectors to the drivers?

I bought these and they are too loose...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found the .25" female disconnects like those to be way too loose. I used the .205 gold disconnects from parts express and found them to be a much better fit. They're a bit snug, but I used a small screwdriver to very slightly open the very ends to "get them started" and they worked (and continue to work) great. Also, don't forget a terminal crimper tool to "cold weld" the wires to the disconnect. Insulated disconnects like the ones you linked to use insulated crimpers like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Non-insulated like the parts express gold connectors use non insulated crimpers.

You're build is looking great, keep up the good work!
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post #25 of 56 Old 05-02-2019, 12:23 PM
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Good job I'm jealous. I wanted to build a set for my living room, but have neither the room nor the tools to do so. Its an old house with no garage. That an they were a bit to wide to fit in my space. But looking back I DID manage to squeeze 2 JBL Studio 590's for the L and R and those are NOT small speakers. LOL

Edited to add you should have done a search around here there are a TON of build threads for those that have a ton of advice. Did I spy some ultimax 15" woofers as well? Looks like you getting read to build a couple subs too, you picked the "hard" build first LOL
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post #26 of 56 Old 05-02-2019, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I found the .25" female disconnects like those to be way too loose. I used the .205 gold disconnects from parts express and found them to be a much better fit. They're a bit snug, but I used a small screwdriver to very slightly open the very ends to "get them started" and they worked (and continue to work) great. Also, don't forget a terminal crimper tool to "cold weld" the wires to the disconnect. Insulated disconnects like the ones you linked to use insulated crimpers like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Non-insulated like the parts express gold connectors use non insulated crimpers.



You're build is looking great, keep up the good work!
Thanks...I have that crimper tool. Works awesome on these. Been squeezing these .25 together a bit and they are working much better now.

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post #27 of 56 Old 05-02-2019, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Good job I'm jealous. I wanted to build a set for my living room, but have neither the room nor the tools to do so. Its an old house with no garage. That an they were a bit to wide to fit in my space. But looking back I DID manage to squeeze 2 JBL Studio 590's for the L and R and those are NOT small speakers. LOL



Edited to add you should have done a search around here there are a TON of build threads for those that have a ton of advice. Did I spy some ultimax 15" woofers as well? Looks like you getting read to build a couple subs too, you picked the "hard" build first LOL
Those are ultimax 18s. Not sure what I'm gonna do with them yet.....or where they can go either!

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post #28 of 56 Old 05-02-2019, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Baffle glued on 1 with crossover wired and attached.....other 2 are finished with the denim.

Got in a bunch of wilsonart free samples. Need to pick one out now.

Probably will paint black the front, back and bottom...then use one of these laminates for the top and sides.

Need to build some grilles so the kids aren't enticed by these next.

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post #29 of 56 Old 05-03-2019, 08:49 AM
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I like both of the darker options on the bottom row. Depending which one will go better with the rest of your room.
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post #30 of 56 Old 05-03-2019, 12:50 PM
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Is that sapele on the bottom right? That could end up looking pretty cool.

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