Another Behringer NX3000d Fan Swap thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 28 Old 05-10-2019, 05:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Another Behringer NX3000d Fan Swap thread

After reading several threads for an hour or so regarding Behringer fan swaps I figured I would make another thread with pics!
The reason is I could not find (got tired of looking) any pics of the new NX3000d's innards to see what is different regarding the fan and heatsinks.

Well the fan looks to be the same however the aluminum heatsink is definitely different (than the NU series pics) and appears to possibly offer better heat dissipation.
The fan shroud appears to be pretty much the same except mine was actually connected to the fan with some adhesive.

I have already ordered this fan, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also bought these heat sinks just because it can't hurt to have more heat dissipation. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

will post more pics when I install the new fan and heat sinks.

Here are the pics of the old Inuke version and the new NX3000d heatsinks.
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post #2 of 28 Old 05-10-2019, 05:45 PM
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So it looks like they eliminated the fan shroud in the NX line? That should help.
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post #3 of 28 Old 05-10-2019, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
So it looks like they eliminated the fan shroud in the NX line? That should help.
Looks like I forgot the pic with the shroud but I did mention it.
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post #4 of 28 Old 05-10-2019, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealmaniac View Post
Looks like I forgot the pic with the shroud but I did mention it.
Sorry, missed that in your original post. To me the shroud was always the problem with airflow throughout the entire unit, would rather have higher CFM fans keeping the entirety of the innards cooler.

Appreciate the info/pics!
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post #5 of 28 Old 05-10-2019, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by smcmillan2 View Post
To me the shroud was always the problem with airflow throughout the entire unit, would rather have higher CFM fans keeping the entirety of the innards cooler.

Personally I'd rather have the airflow concentrated on the parts that get hot rather than waste it on ones that don't.

Noah
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post #6 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I got the replacement fan installed.
I also did some temperature testing with my new infrared/laser thermometer and tested the difference in sound with SPL meter app on my phone.

Sound
Stock fan produced between + 22-25 DB more output over the ambient sound of the room I was testing it in. So ambient noise in room was around 52-55 db, with fan on at approx 2 ft away it jumped to 74-79 DB with the louder sound produced behind the amp.
As a comparison I also tested my Crown XLI 1500. It only produced an extra 3-4 DB over ambient at less than a foot away from the front and back.
After fan swap the Behringer was identical to the Crown with + 3-4 DB over ambient max from 8ish inches away.

Temps
Stock fan with shroud removed produced between 72-84F degrees (at idle IE no load) all over and around the heat sink and PCB. The hottest area was the last place that was connected from the PCB to the heatsink closest to the front of the amp.
After fan swap with shroud removed and Heat Sinks installed temps were 81-95F which was a little concerning. So I replaced the shroud which helped a bit and averaged 77-91F.

Since the replacement fan was essentially silent from 3-4 feet away I can always get a higher DBA fan which moves more air if I have any issues overheating.

Some time this week or weekend I will hook up my 2 garage subs and do some testing under load and see what happens.

Note to self! Be VERY sure of placement of the heat sinks before letting them touch anything! Well at least I will try to next time
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post #7 of 28 Old 05-13-2019, 08:29 PM
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For my NX3000D

I used this, after looking at Dba ratings

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-M...o%2C187&sr=1-1

kinda kludged USB hook-up, but it works

best is that my ventilated shelving lets me run the fan on low, and for being in the room, and about 7 feet away
yes,it is quiet , much more so than the stock

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post #8 of 28 Old 05-14-2019, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealmaniac View Post
Well I got the replacement fan installed.
I also did some temperature testing with my new infrared/laser thermometer and tested the difference in sound with SPL meter app on my phone.

Sound
Stock fan produced between + 22-25 DB more output over the ambient sound of the room I was testing it in. So ambient noise in room was around 52-55 db, with fan on at approx 2 ft away it jumped to 74-79 DB with the louder sound produced behind the amp.
As a comparison I also tested my Crown XLI 1500. It only produced an extra 3-4 DB over ambient at less than a foot away from the front and back.
After fan swap the Behringer was identical to the Crown with + 3-4 DB over ambient max from 8ish inches away.

Temps
Stock fan with shroud removed produced between 72-84F degrees (at idle IE no load) all over and around the heat sink and PCB. The hottest area was the last place that was connected from the PCB to the heatsink closest to the front of the amp.
After fan swap with shroud removed and Heat Sinks installed temps were 81-95F which was a little concerning. So I replaced the shroud which helped a bit and averaged 77-91F.

Since the replacement fan was essentially silent from 3-4 feet away I can always get a higher DBA fan which moves more air if I have any issues overheating.

Some time this week or weekend I will hook up my 2 garage subs and do some testing under load and see what happens.

Note to self! Be VERY sure of placement of the heat sinks before letting them touch anything! Well at least I will try to next time
Just to be sure, did you put thermal paste between the original heat sink and the new ones?

EDIT: Looks like the link you posted has the heatsinks coming with a thermal "tape" already applied. From what I've seen, a good thermal paste will get you better results than the tape in regards to heatsinks, in case you're looking to get the temps down a bit more. Though you'd have to carefully remove the tape. It's possible that if the tape is being non-optimal, you're getting worse heat dissipation than if you just didn't have the extra heatsinks, since you're blocking the surface of the original heatsink. But at the very least, thermal paste should give better results.
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Last edited by Chris Maxey; 05-14-2019 at 10:01 AM.
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post #9 of 28 Old 05-14-2019, 10:00 AM
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any chance of pics wrt heatsink "before and after"?

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post #10 of 28 Old 05-14-2019, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
any chance of pics wrt heatsink "before and after"?
The first batch of 4 pics has the original stock heat sink shown.
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post #11 of 28 Old 05-14-2019, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Maxey View Post
Just to be sure, did you put thermal paste between the original heat sink and the new ones?

EDIT: Looks like the link you posted has the heatsinks coming with a thermal "tape" already applied. From what I've seen, a good thermal paste will get you better results than the tape in regards to heatsinks, in case you're looking to get the temps down a bit more. Though you'd have to carefully remove the tape. It's possible that if the tape is being non-optimal, you're getting worse heat dissipation than if you just didn't have the extra heatsinks, since you're blocking the surface of the original heatsink. But at the very least, thermal paste should give better results.
Yes the sinks I bought already had adhesive on them. Very strong and unforgiving adhesive I might add!
I actually took some tests before and after the heat sinks were applied and they do help, not a lot but around 4 degrees or so.
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post #12 of 28 Old 05-15-2019, 06:32 AM
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If you run into cooling issue with the lower performance of that fan, I recommend the NF A8 PWM. It has much better static pressure rating so gives a lot more airflow through the amp than the one you selected. You might be ok with the addition of the heatsinks, but for me, there is almost no difference in noise and the extra airflow and static pressure that the PWM offers is a no brainer. No sense taking a chance on damaging these amps with poor airflow when there is a very quiet and more effective option. There are lots of cases where peoples Inukes shut down due to quiet fans that don't provide enough airflow.
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-24-2019, 06:29 AM
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I’m still running the stock fan on mine, but I was able to quiet it down somewhat:
I put two layers of Gorilla Tape (like Duct Tape but more rubbery and heavy) completely covering both the inner and outer surfaces of the plastic shroud. It gives the plastic a bit of mass and takes the noise down a noticeable amount.

At some point I will get the recommended fan. But the tape helped a bunch.
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post #14 of 28 Old 05-24-2019, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by designosaur View Post
I’m still running the stock fan on mine, but I was able to quiet it down somewhat:
I put two layers of Gorilla Tape (like Duct Tape but more rubbery and heavy) completely covering both the inner and outer surfaces of the plastic shroud. It gives the plastic a bit of mass and takes the noise down a noticeable amount.

At some point I will get the recommended fan. But the tape helped a bunch.

I knew there was a reason to not throw away those scraps of Dynamat that I recently threw away!
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-26-2019, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have any info on the Behringer NX/NU3000's temperature point at which it will shutdown?

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post #16 of 28 Old 06-17-2019, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
If you run into cooling issue with the lower performance of that fan, I recommend the NF A8 PWM. It has much better static pressure rating so gives a lot more airflow through the amp than the one you selected. You might be ok with the addition of the heatsinks, but for me, there is almost no difference in noise and the extra airflow and static pressure that the PWM offers is a no brainer. No sense taking a chance on damaging these amps with poor airflow when there is a very quiet and more effective option. There are lots of cases where peoples Inukes shut down due to quiet fans that don't provide enough airflow.
I did this exact thing in my 3000d but left the pwm pin off of the plug. How do you connect that NF A8 PWM 4 pin fan to the 3 pin interface on the board?
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post #17 of 28 Old 06-17-2019, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
If you run into cooling issue with the lower performance of that fan, I recommend the NF A8 PWM. It has much better static pressure rating so gives a lot more airflow through the amp than the one you selected. You might be ok with the addition of the heatsinks, but for me, there is almost no difference in noise and the extra airflow and static pressure that the PWM offers is a no brainer. No sense taking a chance on damaging these amps with poor airflow when there is a very quiet and more effective option. There are lots of cases where peoples Inukes shut down due to quiet fans that don't provide enough airflow.
I'm also running the Noctua NF-A8 PWM fan and it's performed flawlessly for about 3 months now.Super super quiet ftw

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post #18 of 28 Old 06-17-2019, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lightsong View Post
I did this exact thing in my 3000d but left the pwm pin off of the plug. How do you connect that NF A8 PWM 4 pin fan to the 3 pin interface on the board?
You buy the FLX:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMG9K6..._t1_B00NEMG62M

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #19 of 28 Old 06-17-2019, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lightsong View Post
I did this exact thing in my 3000d but left the pwm pin off of the plug. How do you connect that NF A8 PWM 4 pin fan to the 3 pin interface on the board?


Just connect the two wires needed from the PWM fan.


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post #20 of 28 Old 06-17-2019, 01:09 PM
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You just use the better PWM version and use the correct two wires. Simple. They cost the same. One has better cooling.


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post #21 of 28 Old 06-23-2019, 05:55 PM
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I have an NF A8 PWM 3-pin also... But it just doesn't fit on the 2-pin connector on the board. The connector holes are too big for the pins on the board. Did you splice yours on with the stock 2-pin connector that came from the stock fan?
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post #22 of 28 Old 06-23-2019, 05:57 PM
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I took your advice and bought that fan and heat sinks for my 3000dsp---love it! SO silent
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post #23 of 28 Old 06-23-2019, 05:58 PM
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I have an NF A8 PWM 3-pin also... But it just doesn't fit on the 2-pin connector on the board. The connector holes are too big for the pins on the board. Did you splice yours on with the stock 2-pin connector that came from the stock fan?



Just connect it- I tried it two different ways and it just works- Plug two of the pins into the 3 pin connector
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post #24 of 28 Old 06-24-2019, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by pachieh View Post
I have an NF A8 PWM 3-pin also... But it just doesn't fit on the 2-pin connector on the board. The connector holes are too big for the pins on the board. Did you splice yours on with the stock 2-pin connector that came from the stock fan?
I did cut mine and spliced on the factory connector.
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post #25 of 28 Old 06-24-2019, 04:05 AM
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I did cut mine and spliced on the factory connector.


Ok, that makes sense. Just trying to put it on made me angry as it’s significantly looser. Plus, that capacitor right next to the fan connector is huge and it doesn’t give ample space for a 3-pin connector to fit normally.


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post #26 of 28 Old 06-24-2019, 11:01 AM
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I did cut mine and spliced on the factory connector.
Would you happen to remember which color wires you cut and spliced to which connector? I like the idea of a fan mod and like your logic for the PWM over the FLX, I'm just having trouble conceptualizing which of the four wires goes where ...
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post #27 of 28 Old 06-24-2019, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pachieh View Post
I have an NF A8 PWM 3-pin also... But it just doesn't fit on the 2-pin connector on the board. The connector holes are too big for the pins on the board. Did you splice yours on with the stock 2-pin connector that came from the stock fan?
I had to splice mine. I used the old existing nx's fan connector and spliced into the new fan (got rid of the new fans connector as it doesn't fit the nx board).

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post #28 of 28 Old 06-24-2019, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidinGA View Post
I had to splice mine. I used the old existing nx's fan connector and spliced into the new fan (got rid of the new fans connector as it doesn't fit the nx board).
That is what I did as well.

Samsung 82 inch, DIYSG HTM12's, Fusion Center, HTM6"s , PSA XS30 X 2, Emotiva XMC-1, Panasonic DMP-UB200, Roku Ultra, Emotiva XPA5.
Garage: UMC-200, Roku2 , Emotiva Airmotiv 5's,Crown XLI 800, HSU TN1225 SUB, Vizio 24" TV.
Computer: Sennheiser GSX1000 & Senn HD598se(wired) & Senn RS185 (wireless) headphones, Antlion Modmic (wireless), Emotiva Airmotiv 5's
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