sp1-1400/2400-HT vs a good power amp
You don’t need a SpeakerPower amp for that Dayton. Unless you’re trying to destroy your driver. Listen to the advice given. If you’re willing to outlay the money for a SP amp; going to a more expensive, more capable driver shouldn’t be an issue.
Here’s the thing with subs. You say your house is an open concept. Then, that single sub is trying to fill your entire house with bass. It’s never going to be able to play to 15hz with the driver you’re currently using or being a single sub. Not knowing how big your house is makes it even more difficult to help. But, let’s just assume it’s 1500sqft with 8ft ceilings. Well, what your sub is seeing is 12,000 (1500x8) cubic ft of space. There’s no way 1 sub will be able to play down to 15hz with any authority in a “room” that size.
What the other posters above are trying to tell you is simply this: get a driver with a stronger motor, that had more xmas, higher power handling capacity and then more of them.
I think you should figure out exactly what you’re trying to achieve. An amp WILL NOT solve the problem. Yes it’s important, but not nearly as important as the driver.
To help you properly, answer these questions:
1. How big is the “room”? Keeping in mind the sub will see the whole house if it’s an open concept.
2. Are you willing to build multiple subs to achieve your goal?
3. Are you willing to start over with a new driver?
4. What is your goal? Do you want to really feel sub 20hz content?
5. Are you willing to learn REW? Buy a mic to use REW?
The people can be incredibly helpful, but they need more information from you. Without that, there’s only a limited amount anyone can do to help.
HT: Oppo UHD-203 | Crown Amps | NX3000D | NX6000D | 1299s | Volt 8s | THTs | Crowson Shadow 8s | BOSS riser | Panamax 5300PM | LG OLED 65B6P
Family: Denon AVR-S740 | PSB Alpha AVs | Sony X900F | X1