Plate Amp From Aliexpress - Junk? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 15 Old 05-30-2019, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Plate Amp From Aliexpress - Junk?

Is this amp Junk please?:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2000...851563422.html

The seller seems to think its 2000w RMS rated and I'm suspicious that it may just be an expensive paperweight, no real information on the web and 1 buyer seems happy (whether he's a genuine buyer or not we don't know)

Too good to be true?

If not 2000w, what sort of output could you expect and would it be safe to use do you think?

Many Thanks
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post #2 of 15 Old 05-30-2019, 01:04 PM
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There are tried and true amps available, why not purchase one? That amp is obviously unknown and untested as far as I know. What are you trying to use the amp for?

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post #3 of 15 Old 05-30-2019, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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A ported or maybe dual opposing sealed build with a B&C 18DS115 Driver (or 2). It wants more power than my 1000w plate amp can currently give.
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post #4 of 15 Old 05-30-2019, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentlemaniac View Post
Is this amp Junk please?:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2000...851563422.html

The seller seems to think its 2000w RMS rated and I'm suspicious that it may just be an expensive paperweight, no real information on the web and 1 buyer seems happy (whether he's a genuine buyer or not we don't know)

Too good to be true?

If not 2000w, what sort of output could you expect and would it be safe to use do you think?

Many Thanks
An amplifier capable of producing 2000 watts would require a 20 ampere circuit and an expensive power supply. The claimed 2000 watts is probably substantially inflated or some sort of "peak" output rating. Beware!
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post #5 of 15 Old 05-30-2019, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentlemaniac View Post
A ported or maybe dual opposing sealed build with a B&C 18DS115 Driver (or 2). It wants more power than my 1000w plate amp can currently give.
The difference between 1000 watts and 2000 watts is only 3 dB. If clean high output capability is the goal, consider using more subwoofers with smaller separate amplifiers in a "swarm" array rather than a single subwoofer with more power. The result is cleaner smoother bass.
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post #6 of 15 Old 05-30-2019, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkeman View Post
An amplifier capable of producing 2000 watts would require a 20 ampere circuit and an expensive power supply. The claimed 2000 watts is probably substantially inflated or some sort of "peak" output rating. Beware!

That's not how amps (usually) work. Energy is stored in the amp's PSU (in the capacitors) and released when needed. Typically, an amp can sustain its rated power for like 20 to 100 milliseconds before it drops to a much lower value (depending on the amp how much lower that'll be, but for usual touring amps that'll be around 1/4th the rated burst power). Nontheless, if not equipped with a PFC stage in the PSU, the peak input draws can still be very high.
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post #7 of 15 Old 05-30-2019, 06:27 PM
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A 15a breaker can pass peaks of 45a without much issue, breakers trip on the longer-term power (mostly).

Amplifiers that have few capacitors are relying on the grid to sustain them, many Class D units like inukes and the one listed fall into this category.

If the grid sags, so does the output.
This clipping is really only noticeable on subwoofers, and only when playing at nuclear SPL with beefy drivers. Tweeters and mids not so much...

There are others like the FP's and PowerSoft's and iTech's that split the amplifier into two main sections:
the power supply which produces a DC-like signal and the output stage that feeds the speaker;
in this way they can add capacitors to buffer a weak breaker and small awg (up to a point), and/or line-sag, and/or implement PFC.

Class A & A/B & H "old-school" amps use 2 sections as well, but they don't use a 99% efficient SMPS, they use an inefficient bridge-rectifier and 15lbs of heatsink and a 25lbs blob of copper, nor do they use a 99% efficient output stage. Thus they are only like ~0-50% efficient... rather than 90's efficient. They are so inefficient that their burst and the rms are really close together. Nobody wants 14kW of heat to make 14kW of sound!

Unless you have a smelting factory in your backyard and a million dollars... the only way you are getting to 14kW per channel is by burst-only, neither the fuse nor breaker nor grid can handle it long-term, it's gotta drop (and it does...)
That's totally fine though because 99% of drivers can't handle 7kW rms (2.8kW long-term) and 14kW burst, they "typically" bottom out or smoke BEFORE the amp gives up the ghost too.

Nearly all plate-amps are junk IMO. Either too weak or lack DSP, or both
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post #8 of 15 Old 05-31-2019, 04:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Im in the Uk and we have 230v power supply here anyway, but i get the fact that adding more drivers would make more sense and just go with the 1000w plate amp instead.
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post #9 of 15 Old 05-31-2019, 01:27 PM
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Are you comparing this to the PE plate amp? I think that one is an AB amp. This plate amp looks like your stereotypical class D 500 watt amp with a few large caps added to increase burst. I doubt you’d get any upgrade with this thing.


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post #10 of 15 Old 06-02-2019, 07:36 AM
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I agree with peniku8. The inuke NU6000 has been tested to output 1200 watts per channel, a total of 2400 watts. It doesn't pull that much from the wall. I forget but I think they pull around 10 amps. You'd have to crank 2 of them up with sine waves and maybe pop a 20 amp breaker.
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post #11 of 15 Old 06-02-2019, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
A 15a breaker can pass peaks of 45a without much issue, breakers trip on the longer-term power (mostly).

Amplifiers that have few capacitors are relying on the grid to sustain them, many Class D units like inukes and the one listed fall into this category.

If the grid sags, so does the output.
This clipping is really only noticeable on subwoofers, and only when playing at nuclear SPL with beefy drivers. Tweeters and mids not so much...

There are others like the FP's and PowerSoft's and iTech's that split the amplifier into two main sections:
the power supply which produces a DC-like signal and the output stage that feeds the speaker;
in this way they can add capacitors to buffer a weak breaker and small awg (up to a point), and/or line-sag, and/or implement PFC.

Class A & A/B & H "old-school" amps use 2 sections as well, but they don't use a 99% efficient SMPS, they use an inefficient bridge-rectifier and 15lbs of heatsink and a 25lbs blob of copper, nor do they use a 99% efficient output stage. Thus they are only like ~0-50% efficient... rather than 90's efficient. They are so inefficient that their burst and the rms are really close together. Nobody wants 14kW of heat to make 14kW of sound!

Unless you have a smelting factory in your backyard and a million dollars... the only way you are getting to 14kW per channel is by burst-only, neither the fuse nor breaker nor grid can handle it long-term, it's gotta drop (and it does...)
That's totally fine though because 99% of drivers can't handle 7kW rms (2.8kW long-term) and 14kW burst, they "typically" bottom out or smoke BEFORE the amp gives up the ghost too.

Nearly all plate-amps are junk IMO. Either too weak or lack DSP, or both
At some point Im starting a BTH greatest hits thread.

I had no idea the nukes drew more power from the circuit vs storing energy.

Thank you again for sharing knowledge.

I agree too OP, buy inukes or other D class esp with the higher voltage, youve got double what weve got (until BTH tells me that is a wrong inference).

I run a high watt Plasma, Denon AVR, 4 inuke 3000s, 1 6000 and even another Sony amp for buttkickers ALL from a 15a circuit 😁

Never clipped an amp, or flipped the breaker.

By far, the more subs theory is the easiest way to manage power.
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post #12 of 15 Old 06-04-2019, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodoobutter View Post
I agree with peniku8. The inuke NU6000 has been tested to output 1200 watts per channel, a total of 2400 watts. It doesn't pull that much from the wall. I forget but I think they pull around 10 amps. You'd have to crank 2 of them up with sine waves and maybe pop a 20 amp breaker.
I just cant take anything you say seriously with a name of Doodoobutter. LOL
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post #13 of 15 Old 06-04-2019, 07:00 PM
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I just cant take anything you say seriously with a name of Doodoobutter. LOL
Old army gaming screen name that just kink of stuck for life. R. Kelly lol
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post #14 of 15 Old 06-04-2019, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodoobutter View Post
I agree with peniku8. The inuke NU6000 has been tested to output 1200 watts per channel, a total of 2400 watts. It doesn't pull that much from the wall. I forget but I think they pull around 10 amps. You'd have to crank 2 of them up with sine waves and maybe pop a 20 amp breaker.
standard 120v 20a circuit is good for 2400w. 2400w of output from the inuke is greater than 20a from the wall due to thermal losses. Closer to 22amps. if you pull that through a 20a breaker for a duration, it will trip eventually. Granted, you'd have to be running the amps flat out for that, and with normal content, not likely to happen due to crest factor.
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post #15 of 15 Old 06-05-2019, 08:10 AM
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You'd have to be running pure sine waves. In that case, you may find that the amp fails before the breaker trips.

Typical "program power" needs are way below peaks. As little as 1/7 depending on the material.
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