Does anyone offer CNC plans for subwoofer enclosures? - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 22 Old 06-18-2019, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone offer CNC plans for subwoofer enclosures?

I am wanting to replace a single PB-2000 with two DIY subwoofers. I would like to use Dayton UM18-22 (go big or go home, right?). I'd like for the box to have a cutout for an amp. I have the WAF to think about and I don't have the setup available for external amps. I have access to a full size CNC machine via a makerspace. The flat packs look nice, but that's an extra $250ish as opposed to cutting my own. I definitely do not have the expertise to design this on my own.



So are there any plans for purchase or free that can be loaded into a CNC machine and just lets the machine do its thing?
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post #2 of 22 Old 06-18-2019, 06:32 PM
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One might consider such plans as well fussed over IP and most likely not a gift from the shoemakers elves,
hence, as such, folks who paid the price are reluctant to turn them loose into the wild . . .
sure there are other guys who can do it - but it's been done and not likely to be much improved upon, so move onto something else
Pandora's Box effect

Now Bill Ftizmaurice's plans are also subject to IP considerations ,
and no doubt someone out there has made a copy or 2 but gee. by golly, I saved a whole 15 bucks- who wants to sell out a small portion of integrity for $15 . . really? that little?
but they're not CNC- and don't need to be- they are superlative acoustic and structural engineering made accessible for a nominal price and well worth it
especially for inexperienced builders whose mindset of IITP will let them achieve great woofage by their own hands and for a tremendous ROI .

IIRC, you might find plans for a CNC GHorn V2, as I recall a build from about 2+ years ago by a forgotten AVS'er , LA area, iirc, who needed to knock a sub together "right now!" .

I'd have to look around on another drive for that V2 sketchup but it's not CNC

and yes, the GSGAD flatpacks are that instant accessibility . . .
but that business was in development for well over 1 1/2 years- there were a lot of dots to connect

but the Marty design(s) , originally, also evolved to be maximally idiot proof . . . tho YMMV

why not drag a Marty cutsheet diagram over to makerspace . . eliminates a few hours of measuring , cutting, cleaning up
add 5-6 dozen Kreg screws, 2 tubes of PL3, some paint if needed , wires, connectors-

shouldn't be too hard . . . a good hands on learning experience

there is always Khan Academy- they may a have a course for learning to develop layout / program CNC.

HTH
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-18-2019, 07:49 PM
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The problem with using someone else's CNC program is that the material may be different thicknesses, and the program may require modification.
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 06:19 AM
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Do you know what sort of box you are going for? If it is just a sealed box, you should be able to build that with minimal woodworking skills and very few tools. Going to a marty (or variation of) will add a little complication, but if you look around you will find some cut sheets as well as numerous photos of people assembling and informing abotu what worked and didnt for them.

Having a CNC is nice, but its nothing that some good measuring and careful planning cant match with just a tablesaw and router. Also, you never really know if the plans you find will plug directly in to the CNC, so you may have some hassle with that.
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post #5 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 06:27 AM
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By the time you figure out the plans for a CNC you could have easily cut the panels in less time. You can build a simple saw guide for a circular saw so you do not have to measure offsets. Set the saw guide on the line run the saw down the guide, perfect cut. Pretty minimal wood working skills are required.




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post #6 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jon C View Post
Do you know what sort of box you are going for? If it is just a sealed box, you should be able to build that with minimal woodworking skills and very few tools. Going to a marty (or variation of) will add a little complication, but if you look around you will find some cut sheets as well as numerous photos of people assembling and informing abotu what worked and didnt for them.

Having a CNC is nice, but its nothing that some good measuring and careful planning cant match with just a tablesaw and router. Also, you never really know if the plans you find will plug directly in to the CNC, so you may have some hassle with that.

I might have been overthinking how complex the box needs to be after seeing pictures of the various flat packs and their inner support pieces. I think I would just do a sealed box to make it a little easier. I know there is always room for improvement, but I think I'll be happy with two sealed 18".
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post #7 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 08:57 AM
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I used the 4cu/ft flatpacks and cut out openings in the back for plate amps. It was easy and well worth the cost of the flatpacks considering the time and effort it saved me.


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post #8 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 10:42 AM
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wrt to any internal volume impact, plate amp would be negligible,
however you will want to be sure that the install doesn't compromise the concept of "sealed".

you can check with the manufacturer that the amp doesn't "breathe"

which amp will that be? got DSP?

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post #9 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson1 View Post
I might have been overthinking how complex the box needs to be after seeing pictures of the various flat packs and their inner support pieces. I think I would just do a sealed box to make it a little easier. I know there is always room for improvement, but I think I'll be happy with two sealed 18".
The UM18s are quite versatile. They can be used sealed, ported, and even in a horn. Not a bad choice of driver to build on. The question becomes, how big of a box can you fit in the room?

For a sealed box, bracing can be as simple as dowels spanning cross-panels. Just have to leave room for the driver and plate amp if you go that route.
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post #10 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by notfastenough View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson1 View Post
I might have been overthinking how complex the box needs to be after seeing pictures of the various flat packs and their inner support pieces. I think I would just do a sealed box to make it a little easier. I know there is always room for improvement, but I think I'll be happy with two sealed 18".
The UM18s are quite versatile. They can be used sealed, ported, and even in a horn. Not a bad choice of driver to build on. The question becomes, how big of a box can you fit in the room? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

For a sealed box, bracing can be as simple as dowels spanning cross-panels. Just have to leave room for the driver and plate amp if you go that route.
With the WAF to consider something about the size of a Marty cube or my existing pb-2000 is a about the biggest I'd get. Would for sure do a plate amp.
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post #11 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 03:54 PM
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If you want to settle into a Marty Cube and have some funds available look at the 18DS115. The strong motor, power handling and generous xmax make it great for smaller cabs.
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post #12 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 06:33 PM
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I just built a pair of sealed 5ft^3 boxes for UM18s and they pound. This coming from someone that always went ported. These are in our living room, not the ideal setup to be sure.

So, having said that, what are you dealing with/wanting? You haven't given many specifics for people to go with. Even ported you may be able to come up with a design that would fit in as a piece of furniture, or fill an empty and otherwise unused area, etc.

There are some deals on plate amps with DSP at https://www.diysoundgroup.com/denovo...ed-supply.html but they're going fast. Get something with DSP whichever way you go.
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post #13 of 22 Old 06-19-2019, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson1 View Post
With the WAF to consider something about the size of a Marty cube or my existing pb-2000 is a about the biggest I'd get. Would for sure do a plate amp.
Marty cube is too small for the UM unfortunately. If your heart is set on that driver, go ahead and run them sealed. Another benefit of sealed is you can get away without DSP. No high pass needed to keep the excursion in check. Of course, if you can get a plate amp that has DSP and do measurements then you'd be in even better shape.

It would be better choosing a different driver that suits the cube if the ported alignment is the deal maker.
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post #14 of 22 Old 06-20-2019, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I just built a pair of sealed 5ft^3 boxes for UM18s and they pound. This coming from someone that always went ported. These are in our living room, not the ideal setup to be sure.

So, having said that, what are you dealing with/wanting? You haven't given many specifics for people to go with. Even ported you may be able to come up with a design that would fit in as a piece of furniture, or fill an empty and otherwise unused area, etc.

There are some deals on plate amps with DSP at https://www.diysoundgroup.com/denovo...ed-supply.html but they're going fast. Get something with DSP whichever way you go.
I'm in the same boat as you it seems with being in a living room. Roughly 5300ft^3 since it opens into the dining/kitchen. I know I'm not going to get any room pressurization. I attached a model of the space.

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Marty cube is too small for the UM unfortunately. If your heart is set on that driver, go ahead and run them sealed. Another benefit of sealed is you can get away without DSP. No high pass needed to keep the excursion in check. Of course, if you can get a plate amp that has DSP and do measurements then you'd be in even better shape.

It would be better choosing a different driver that suits the cube if the ported alignment is the deal maker.
I'm not dead set on that specific. I thought I had seen people doing the UM18 into a Marty Cube size box. I could certainly go down to 15". I'm fine being sealed or ported. I just didn't want to mess with PVC piping for that kind of ported design. Marty type design would prevent that though.
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post #15 of 22 Old 06-20-2019, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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If you want to settle into a Marty Cube and have some funds available look at the 18DS115. The strong motor, power handling and generous xmax make it great for smaller cabs.

Unfortunately that would put me out of budget.
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post #16 of 22 Old 06-20-2019, 01:32 PM
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I'm not dead set on that specific. I thought I had seen people doing the UM18 into a Marty Cube size box. I could certainly go down to 15". I'm fine being sealed or ported. I just didn't want to mess with PVC piping for that kind of ported design. Marty type design would prevent that though.
The problem with the UM15 is that it requires about the same airspace as the UM18. If you want something in a Marty Cube size your looking at an HO 18.
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post #17 of 22 Old 06-21-2019, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ndle--300-7099

I've been leaning towards that, but it sounds like maybe this box just isn't big enough? Or since it's sealed can you go smaller on the box? Here is the same thing with the HO 18 sub instead. - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ndle--300-7094
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post #18 of 22 Old 06-21-2019, 08:20 AM
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That would work with the UM18 sealed. If your looking for a plate amp, they offer the same bundle with a DSP plate amp, if it's ever in stock.

dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-with-spa1200dsp-amplifier-and-cabinet-package

DSP isn't as critical in a sealed application, because you don't need the high pass filter. But you can still use it to boost some of the low end that rolls off.
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post #19 of 22 Old 06-21-2019, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by emerson1 View Post
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ndle--300-7099

I've been leaning towards that, but it sounds like maybe this box just isn't big enough? Or since it's sealed can you go smaller on the box? Here is the same thing with the HO 18 sub instead. - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ndle--300-7094
Yes, one of the benefits of going sealed is a smaller box. I built two of the bundles you linked to. They sound great and have a lot of output.
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post #20 of 22 Old 06-21-2019, 11:35 AM
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I've been using an UM18 in a Marty Cube without concerns. It is true the UM18 is better suited to a larger box and the HO's would have a flatter modeled response, but this thing has more output then the HO's and frequency response is so dependant on room anyway that I am not disappointed with my driver choice.
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post #21 of 22 Old 06-21-2019, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been using an UM18 in a Marty Cube without concerns. It is true the UM18 is better suited to a larger box and the HO's would have a flatter modeled response, but this thing has more output then the HO's and frequency response is so dependant on room anyway that I am not disappointed with my driver choice.
Thanks for the insight! Did you do a build thread for it? I've been looking into making it an end table.
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post #22 of 22 Old 06-21-2019, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for the insight! Did you do a build thread for it? I've been looking into making it an end table.
You are welcome. No build thread unfortunately. Finished pictures in my signature though.
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