Do I need to hire someone to fix the DFB for the full marty? (pics inside) - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 62 Old 06-23-2019, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Do I need to hire someone to fix the DFB for the full marty? (pics inside)

I'm pretty sure the DFB is messed up beyond repair, but I wanted to get some more opinions on it.
The screws for the UM18 will drill directly into the 2nd MDF board. Will this have any negative consequences? Do I need to get the front of this redone?

Any help is appreciated.
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post #2 of 62 Old 06-23-2019, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIV13 View Post
I'm pretty sure the DFB is messed up beyond repair, but I wanted to get some more opinions on it.

The screws for the UM18 will drill directly into the 2nd MDF board. Will this have any negative consequences? Do I need to get the front of this redone?



Any help is appreciated.
You can just install would blocks behind where the screws will be on the second baffle

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post #3 of 62 Old 06-23-2019, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
You can just install would blocks behind where the screws will be on the second baffle

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Great idea. I would have never thought of that.

What is the best method to glue the DFB wood together? Liquid glue? Titebond with a ton of clamps?
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post #4 of 62 Old 06-23-2019, 07:48 PM
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Just use the same glue used to secure you box together.
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post #5 of 62 Old 06-23-2019, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Just use the same glue used to secure you box together.
Yup I love pl3 that stuff is strong put the sub in take a marker pen ect and mark where the holes are at. Take your blocks put glue on them and put them behind the baffle where your dots are and clamp them down.

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post #6 of 62 Old 06-24-2019, 11:23 AM
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I’m not sure what DFB is, but here is how I did some reinforcement for my mounting bolts. I used 3/4 oak hard wood to lessen the chance of stripping them out.



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post #7 of 62 Old 06-24-2019, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
I’m not sure what DFB is,

[

I’m guessing double front baffle?
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post #8 of 62 Old 06-24-2019, 11:39 AM
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I went a little overkill, but I used longer screws to make sure it did not go anywhere. A few one inch chunks of 2x4 will do the trick if you have one lying around.
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post #9 of 62 Old 06-24-2019, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
I’m guessing double front baffle?


Oh... duh. Makes sense. Thanks
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post #10 of 62 Old 06-25-2019, 02:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
I’m not sure what DFB is, but here is how I did some reinforcement for my mounting bolts. I used 3/4 oak hard wood to lessen the chance of stripping them out.

Great idea thank you.
Why did you use the metal in the wood where the screw goes?
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post #11 of 62 Old 06-25-2019, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIV13 View Post
Great idea thank you.
Why did you use the metal in the wood where the screw goes?
He's using threaded machine screws and not wood screws. Those metal things, blind nuts they're called, push into the wood. They are threaded so that when you put the screw in and tighten it, they act like a "regular" nut. They just don't move is all.

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post #12 of 62 Old 06-25-2019, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIV13 View Post
Great idea thank you.

Why did you use the metal in the wood where the screw goes?

Jcmcorm was right. Those are the T-Nuts. I like the look of the machine bolt more than a panhead screw, so I used these:
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...g-kit--260-778

I also fear stripping out MDF with a regular screw, so these felt like the better option.
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post #13 of 62 Old 06-26-2019, 04:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I may consider that myself.

Not sure where else to ask this, so sorry for the noob question. Is it ok to go ahead and glue my DFB together before I glue everything else together? I dont think it'd be easy to get a good seal trying to do them together while doing the rest of the speaker.
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post #14 of 62 Old 06-26-2019, 07:31 AM
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I saw and then did this about 6 years ago. . .
for 3 THTLP's and my 2 Lhorns

requires some extra time wrt spot-on alignment, virtual pre-assembly for zero defects in hitting all the right points for seating, sealing

threads should be chased with a tap no matter how careful you are

5 minute epoxy
and a anti-rotation screw

it's gonna say put . . .
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post #15 of 62 Old 06-26-2019, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I saw and then did this about 6 years ago. . .
for 3 THTLP's and my 2 Lhorns

requires some extra time wrt spot-on alignment, virtual pre-assembly for zero defects in hitting all the right points for seating, sealing

threads should be chased with a tap no matter how careful you are

5 minute epoxy
and a anti-rotation screw

it's gonna say put . . .
Does home depot carry anything like that?
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post #16 of 62 Old 06-26-2019, 02:11 PM
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that's likely Gorilla Glue 5 minute epoxy, very available , HD too, google it

I'd do 2 T-nuts at a time , so small batches and no worries about it cooking off too fast - and it does
i put only a smidge into the hole wrt to the t-nut barrel -
AFTER i had a bout 1/8" insertion , trying to keep the threads virgin
of course everything has been dry-fit(ted) to death

including driver fit to that part of the baffle

IF there is some t-nut metal overhang beyond the edge( which you've slightly eased)that you think might be hazardous to driver surround travel at "full" throttle,

file / grind it off

take you time and enjoy problem solving process / procedure.

you want it right, once, the first time.

8-24's should be plenty of good holding power, maybe washer head for more surface area squish

I usually use a 2" wide fiber re-enforced 1/8th" plumbing tape as gasket material. cut to a more usable BUT FULL width

HD https://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell...8230/100539553

which answers the question: did I compromise on getting this sucka' sealed?

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post #17 of 62 Old 06-26-2019, 05:30 PM
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No disrespect to anyone using other fasteners, but in my case I have found using #8 pan head screws have held all my drivers in place.

Your use case may dictate stronger fasteners, my sealed UM18s have been fine so far. We listen at -20 to -10 so take that into consideration. Horses for courses, everyone has different issues/requirements.
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post #18 of 62 Old 06-26-2019, 05:35 PM
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I used 2 in spax power lags my last build and will be using these from now on. Easy and super strong holding power

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post #19 of 62 Old 06-27-2019, 06:14 AM
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I used 2 in spax power lags my last build and will be using these from now on. Easy and super strong holding power

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^^^^^ those will hold forever....
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post #20 of 62 Old 06-27-2019, 07:30 AM
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^^^^^ those will hold forever....
Lol yeah theres something about using a ratchet to tighten down your sub fasteners that Gives off level of confidence

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post #21 of 62 Old 06-27-2019, 09:09 AM
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Lol yeah theres something about using a ratchet to tighten down your sub fasteners that Gives off level of confidence

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HD0823, do you happen to have a link for anyone who might be interested in getting those fasteners?
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post #22 of 62 Old 06-27-2019, 09:31 AM
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HD0823, do you happen to have a link for anyone who might be interested in getting those fasteners?
Yup right here and there cheap so that helps.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-1-4...0507/202041031

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post #23 of 62 Old 06-27-2019, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Would appreciate any confirmation this is the correct action to take.

"Not sure where else to ask this, so sorry for the noob question. Is it ok to go ahead and glue my DFB together before I glue everything else together? I dont think it'd be easy to get a good seal trying to do them together while doing the rest of the speaker."

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post #24 of 62 Old 06-27-2019, 01:49 PM
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I did my double front baffle after on the cyclops just played the box on it's back side when I was working and yes I recall the um having 8 mounting holes so 8 per box . There also isnt any right or wrong faster out of the ones mentioned I've used the tnuts=slab nurs also. You just have to make sure everything is aligned when Using them.

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post #25 of 62 Old 06-28-2019, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIV13 View Post
Would appreciate any confirmation this is the correct action to take.

"Not sure where else to ask this, so sorry for the noob question. Is it ok to go ahead and glue my DFB together before I glue everything else together? I dont think it'd be easy to get a good seal trying to do them together while doing the rest of the speaker."

Not an expert on subwoofer boxes having only made 3-4 in recent times , but I have glued the double baffle together before even routing the driver hole on all of them . I then test fit everything to make sure I didn't mess up any measurements , square up if I did , then mark which way is up then route the driver hole . I personally prefer titebond or whatever wood glue you prefer for gluing panels together , saving the PL for joints . It's far easier to get a layer of titebond spread over the entire surface , and I feel that is the best way to join the DFB . I don't know if it is better than stripes of PL , or if it even makes a difference , but it's my way .
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post #26 of 62 Old 06-29-2019, 03:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have a lead on where I can get a mattress topper from? My walmart only has one brand but its not all egg crate, it has some other stupid ass designs on it. Then they have memory foam ones which aren't the most affordable.

This is the one from my local walmart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays...-Each/10083472


Does the design matter, or does it just need to be foam?


Found this one if the above isn't what I need.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lightweig...lows/484123489

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post #27 of 62 Old 06-29-2019, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have a lead on where I can get a mattress topper from? My walmart only has one brand but its not all egg crate, it has some other stupid ass designs on it. Then they have memory foam ones which aren't the most affordable.

This is the one from my local walmart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays...-Each/10083472


Does the design matter, or does it just need to be foam?


Found this one if the above isn't what I need.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lightweig...lows/484123489
Anyone able to help please?
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post #28 of 62 Old 06-29-2019, 03:22 PM
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Anyone able to help please?
The design doesn't matter, just needs to be foam that is permeable (air can pass through it). The first one looks fine, second one also looks fine. Memory foam won't work since it doesn't let air pass through easily (or at all).
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post #29 of 62 Old 06-29-2019, 03:24 PM
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foam topper egg crate style
Amazon . . .

also,

polyester pillows can be strategically positioned wrt internal resonance damping . .

somebody out there can address that . .

the entire inside of the cab doesn't need all surfaces covered

and those who know better may suggest where to stick your pillow- no kidding

in this pic, a MBM tuned dual PA460 sub needed, per @LTD02 , just a normal pillow, stapled to braces,
that 1 was q queen sized one for a tab extra polyester fill - walmart
with about 1K off a inuke 6K amp, it does oh-tay

oddly when comparing sizes and amount of actual fill, by weight, usually a pillow brings the best value per pound as opposed to pre-bagged fill as may be used for not HT /Sub projects
but who want to do that?
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post #30 of 62 Old 06-29-2019, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by scottvalentin View Post
The design doesn't matter, just needs to be foam that is permeable (air can pass through it). The first one looks fine, second one also looks fine. Memory foam won't work since it doesn't let air pass through easily (or at all).
Thank you so much!
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