DIY audio soundbar partial fail~~~S.O.S. - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 45 Old 06-26-2019, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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DIY audio soundbar partial fail~~~S.O.S.

So I decided that I wanted to build a custom soundbar to match the entertainment system I built. The process seemed simple, I'm okay with woodworking and the audio should be plug speakers into an amp and enjoy. Well, that hasn't been the case, audio, I found, is much more complicated and I don't know enough about it.

I built the box, bought the amp, crossover, and power supply and connected them to the T.V. audio output through the RCA out. I was disappointed to find that the only way to control the volume was through the potentiometer on the amp board but alas there was sound coming out. The vocals were great and not overpowered by the music in the background. The bass was a bit low so I searched for some channels with a little more action.

To my dismay, while the vocals came through great, the more dynamic the sound became it started to sound like someone was pressing a mute button off and on repeatedly. I am now at a loss as what to do. I have included a list of what I used and how they are wired below for someone more knowledgeable and willing to help me make this project a success to view.

WINGONEER TDA7498E 2x160W Dual Channel Audio Amplifier Board, Support BTL Mode 1X220W Single Channel, DC 24V

Dayton Audio XO3W-375/3K 3-Way Speaker Crossover 375/3,000 Hz

24V 5A DC Switching Power Supply AC Adapter with 2.5 x 5.5mm Plug

2.5mm Panel Mount DC Jack

NTE 54-645-B SPST Round Hole Square Bezel Illuminated Rocker Switch with Blue LED

(2) Sony 2 3/4 drivers (1-826-417-11) (don't know the watts because they were donated for the project)
(2) LG 90w 4ohm 2 3/4 drivers
(1) LG 200w 3 ohm 7 1/2 sub

The system is wired as such:


24VDC power into the power switch~
Switch in the on position~
Power to the amp

Audio signal from source via RCA~ (T.V.)
To the 1X220 single channel amp~
Then to the crossover~

From the crossover~
high audio signal to tweeters
mid audio signal to mid drivers (90w) wired in a series/parallel combo to keep the 4ohm
bass to 200w sub

I have a seperate WINGONEER TDA7498 2X100W Dual Channel Digital Stereo Power Amp Module DC 24V Class D Audio Amplifier Board that I also bought and was going to originally use but thought I could get away without using it. I was thinking of splitting the input signal between the two amps and running both into the crossover to try to resolve the problem. If there is someone that can help me save this project, PLEASE HELP ME! I am proud of my build and thrilled with the look, but if the audio doesn't work then its an expensive paperweight.
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post #2 of 45 Old 06-26-2019, 12:09 PM
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I'm no tech juggler and your question /circumstance is way above my paygrade

but you sure sounded like you knew what you were doing . . .

"the audio should be plug speakers into an amp and enjoy".

Exactly!

Spoiler!
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post #3 of 45 Old 06-26-2019, 02:14 PM
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Help us with the hookup. You're only using one channel of output from the TV, going through a single channel of the amp, then to the crossover, and then to two sets of drivers?
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post #4 of 45 Old 06-26-2019, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jcmccorm View Post
Help us with the hookup. You're only using one channel of output from the TV, going through a single channel of the amp, then to the crossover, and then to two sets of drivers?
Yes essentially, from the source to the input on the amp using one set of RCA wires. From the amp the single source travels to the crossover and splits into the highs, mids, and bass. There are two drivers for the highs, four drivers for the mids, and one sub. The more I type it, it seems too much for a 200w amp.
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post #5 of 45 Old 06-26-2019, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
I'm no tech juggler and your question /circumstance is way above my paygrade

but you sure sounded like you knew what you were doing . . .

"the audio should be plug speakers into an amp and enjoy".

Exactly!

Spoiler!

LMAO, yup, pretty much my mindset when I started. I actually thought about pulling the guts from a surround system and simply put it in a different box, but when I opened the case I found myself far more overwhelmed than I expected. Hence why I thought just to try to keep it simple instead of using a surround old system. I mistakenly thought I had done enough research on the topic. As it stands, the image I have atached is all I have, a heavy paperweight.
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post #6 of 45 Old 06-26-2019, 04:57 PM
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On the bright side, your woodworking skills are looking GOOOOOD!


If it were me, I would try powering another set of commercial speakers with the amplifier. My thoughts are it sounds like an issue with the amp, but you could also try using another RCA cable, or only wire up one side of the speaker instead of both?


Don't give up hope. I've heard it from several members on this forum as well as others that one should never try to build their own custom speakers - we should all let the so-called professionals handle that. How do you think those people got started in the first place?


Hey, it may not be the greatest sounding speaker when you are done, but you'll learn some things along the way, and that is all part of DIY!


Edit: FWIW, yes, building a known good design may be a better pathway to audio bliss, but it takes a lot of the fun out of DIY in my opinion.
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post #7 of 45 Old 06-26-2019, 09:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by drewp29 View Post
On the bright side, your woodworking skills are looking GOOOOOD!


If it were me, I would try powering another set of commercial speakers with the amplifier. My thoughts are it sounds like an issue with the amp, but you could also try using another RCA cable, or only wire up one side of the speaker instead of both?


Don't give up hope. I've heard it from several members on this forum as well as others that one should never try to build their own custom speakers - we should all let the so-called professionals handle that. How do you think those people got started in the first place?


Hey, it may not be the greatest sounding speaker when you are done, but you'll learn some things along the way, and that is all part of DIY!


Edit: FWIW, yes, building a known good design may be a better pathway to audio bliss, but it takes a lot of the fun out of DIY in my opinion.
Thank you for the kind words on my woodworking, its a skill in progress. And I completely understand about not trying to build my own, I just thought I was building a custom enclosure and the amp would be simpler in the sense that the amp was already built and I simply needed to supply power. Obviously, that's not the case hence the position I'm in. I will definitely try another set of RCA cables, the ones I'm using are ancient. I am also thinking of doing the research and finding out if I can use the second amp that I purchased in the same enclosure to resolve the issue. I think the worst case scenario is I fry one or both amps. I would then have a 200w and a 220w amp in the box and maybe that would help support the amp need for what I want to accomplish.
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post #8 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bryan Shearouse View Post
Yes essentially, from the source to the input on the amp using one set of RCA wires. From the amp the single source travels to the crossover and splits into the highs, mids, and bass. There are two drivers for the highs, four drivers for the mids, and one sub. The more I type it, it seems too much for a 200w amp.
The amp should be fine. I'm having trouble with the hookup. When you say "one set of RCA wires" do you mean stereo? (ie. left and right; two wires) Are you really only using one channel of the amp or one channel for 'left' and one for 'right'? For the crossover, is it designed to have two of everything (tweeter/mid) attached to it?

I would use stereo RCA cables (two distinct signals) running to two channels of the amp. From the amp, each output goes to one of two crossovers, with each crossover driving 1 tweeter and one mid/woofer. That's standard hookup, unless that crossover was designed to drive 2 tweeters/mids. Your amp is 2 channel right so you can try that. Do you have another crossover?

Beautiful box!
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post #9 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 05:36 AM - Thread Starter
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The amp should be fine. I'm having trouble with the hookup. When you say "one set of RCA wires" do you mean stereo? (ie. left and right; two wires) Are you really only using one channel of the amp or one channel for 'left' and one for 'right'? For the crossover, is it designed to have two of everything (tweeter/mid) attached to it?

I would use stereo RCA cables (two distinct signals) running to two channels of the amp. From the amp, each output goes to one of two crossovers, with each crossover driving 1 tweeter and one mid/woofer. That's standard hookup, unless that crossover was designed to drive 2 tweeters/mids. Your amp is 2 channel right so you can try that. Do you have another crossover?

Beautiful box!
So, if I understand you correctly, I am fine with the one 220w amp, but because there are 7 drivers (2 for highs, 4 for mids, 1 sub) that I should have 2-3 crossovers. Unfortunately, I only have the one crossover and with the size of the enclosure, I will not have enough room inside for another crossover board. It was actually larger than I was expecting. I am not sure on the number of channels that the crossover has, I thought the single signal went in and split amongst all of the drivers. I will include a pic of both the amp and the crossover in this post, maybe this will help my explanation make more sense. And thank you for the compliment on the box, I am really pleased with the way it came out.
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post #10 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 05:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Along with trying to figure out if I can just simply use the second amp that I purchased, I was thinking about keeping the setup and downgrading the drivers. All of the drivers I have were donated, as in several enclosures from two or three old surround sound systems. I simply took the drivers out of the enclosures and scraped the old enclosures. I was just looking on part express and looking at some 15-30w mids and a 120w sub. The sizes are close enough to replace the drivers I have without modifying the enclosure. The 15-30w mids would replace the 90w mids and the 120w sub would replace the 200w sub. In my mind, this would lessen the load on the amp as it is only a 1x220w amp.

The other option I was considering is simply add in the second amp and run both to the crossover where the signal split. But I am questioning if that is even possible as I thought that the crossover simply split the signal that was sent to it into the three different ranges.
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post #11 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 07:19 AM
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How big are the cut-outs for the drivers that you did? Don't worry about the wattage ratings at all, that's not how much power the drivers will use, they will only use what the amp is capable of putting out.

With the hole sizes, some here suggest some drivers for you to use.
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post #12 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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The cutouts are just small enough to catch the rim of the driver only. The cones have room to travel if need be and I installed them from inside the enclosure so that only the cone is visible through the cutout.
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post #13 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 09:12 AM
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There is a lot more to designing a good speaker than just sticking some drivers into a box connected to an off the shelf Xover. Let me understand this. You have 6 drivers connected to a single Xover that is connected to a single channel of an amp I can't imagine why that wouldn't work
How about we start over from scratch and do it the right way, unless sound quality is not wanted? Maybe we can salvage the box, but probably not.
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There is a lot more to designing a good speaker than just sticking some drivers into a box connected to an off the shelf Xover. Let me understand this. You have 6 drivers connected to a single Xover that is connected to a single channel of an amp[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif[/IMG] I can't imagine why that wouldn't work[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif[/IMG]
How about we start over from scratch and do it the right way, unless sound quality is not wanted? Maybe we can salvage the box, but probably not.
Clearly at this point I understand that there is more to designing a good speaker than that, and as I started this thread with, my knowledge in this area is lacking severally. I'm looking to salvage the project not just throw it away, if possible.

The sound quality is a priority but not the only one. But I can't exactly get a good read on my sound quality with the sound cutting out, hence the reason for the request for assistance. If the amp, crossover, and speakers are fine and will work then it seems only logical that the problem I'm having is power or wiring.

Outside of this I'm completely blind as I've never done DIY audio, it's always been off the shelf. But I didnt want off the shelf, I wanted mine. I have no problem admitting I'm not an audiophile, but it doesn't mean I cant accomplish what I want. In seeing the pics in previous posts and the breakdown list of the equipment I have with the addition of possibly using another 200w amp that is not currently being used, do you have any suggestions that can be helpful?
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post #15 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 10:27 AM
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If you have the drivers wired in parallel the ohm load is probably to low for the amp. You can run all those drivers off of a single crossover if you wire the mids and highs in series for a 8 ohm load, which is what the crossover is setup for anyways. For the woofer section make sure that the plug is on the 4ohm tap.

Man the s replacing S thing is annoying, makes stuff hard to read.


Edit:

See that you have 4-4ohm mids now, going to be hard to make that crossover work. Some of the drivers might have to be swapped out if you want to save the box and use an off the shelf crossover. Not that I would recommend an off the shelf crossover.
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post #16 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 12:10 PM
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Man the s replacing S thing is annoying, makes stuff hard to read.
Indeed!

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post #17 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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If you have the drivers wired in parallel the ohm load is probably to low for the amp. You can run all those drivers off of a single crossover if you wire the mids and highs in series for a 8 ohm load, which is what the crossover is setup for anyways. For the woofer section make sure that the plug is on the 4ohm tap.

Man the s replacing S thing is annoying, makes stuff hard to read.


Edit:

See that you have 4-4ohm mids now, going to be hard to make that crossover work. Some of the drivers might have to be swapped out if you want to save the box and use an off the shelf crossover. Not that I would recommend an off the shelf crossover.
The mids are wired in a series/parallel combo which from what I thought I read kept them at 4ohms. At least that was my understanding. I was already considering buying different mids when I went back to parts Express this morning and saw that I could get some with similar size. That would keep me from having to junk or modify the cutouts for the drivers.

I didnt truly want to use an off the shelf crossover to begin with, but after doing some research and knowing my limits with soldering, it seemed a better option than trying to build my own.
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post #18 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 03:17 PM
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Series/parallel would get you 4 ohms. That's a problem since the crossover you have is built for a 8ohm mids and highs. Without getting too complicated, the inductor is about twice the value it should be, and the capacitor is about half the value it should be for a 4 ohm load. That's generically, ideally you want a custom crossover designed using inbox impedance and frequency measurements from the drivers.
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post #19 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 03:21 PM
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The cutting out is an amplifier problem or a loose connection. You don't happen to have a multimeter do you?
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post #20 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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The cutting out is an amplifier problem or a loose connection. You don't happen to have a multimeter do you?

Yes, I have a multimeter. What and how do I need to test?

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post #21 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Series/parallel would get you 4 ohms. That's a problem since the crossover you have is built for a 8ohm mids and highs. Without getting too complicated, the inductor is about twice the value it should be, and the capacitor is about half the value it should be for a 4 ohm load. That's generically, ideally you want a custom crossover designed using inbox impedance and frequency measurements from the drivers.

So, in that respect. I could disconnect two mid drivers and wire the other two in series to get the 8ohm or get 4 new mid drivers. How does one get a custom crossover made? It would be interesting to do myself, but it not being my main hobby, it seemed a better venture focusing elsewhere.

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post #22 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I am also being told that I have a power issue, in that the power supply I am using is not the recommended power supply, that I need at least 32v 8a to power my system. I looked up this one, https://www.parts-express.com/mean-w...powe--320-3168 . Is there any knowledge or an opinion about this?
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post #23 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 06:43 PM
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It all sounds easy..... doesn’t it? First, like someone told you on the other forum your power supply is too small which could be starving for “input” power and cutting out. Your amp sees a different ohm load than what it wants so that too could be cutting out because it’s working too hard “working power”.

I’m no expert but let’s try to simplify.

1st. Your power supply - try less speakers or a bigger power supply. Maybe try without the sub.

2nd. Forget about the term “watts” for your speakers, you are just confusing yourself. Instead use “ohms” because this right now is more important. Your tweeters need to be wired to 8ohms and your mids to 8ohms. Use your ohm meter to get close to 8 “ohms” in a series parallel configuration (google it) because you described + to + and - to - earlier and that would put you down to 2ohms which is the wrong way to go. Hint: when using your meter it will be hard to get exactly 8, just get close.

3rd try excluding you sub from this circuit and creating its own. Maybe get a rca y-splitter and use both amps, one for you highs and mids (don’t use the low on the xo board) and another amp for your subs. You could buy an f-mod with a 350hz (around) low pass just to run your second amp and sub in a 4ohm but hopefully a 8ohm load by it’s self.

So, here is what I would do.
I assume you have both red and white (left and right) rca’s coming from your tv. Use red for one amp and white for the other. The first amp will only power one channel (one input) to the one crossover (mono) where you can power the high and mid, don’t use the sub. The other rca output to the new fmod (<350 hz) then to the other amp then to the sub.
Another option is because your amp has two channels you should get two new two way xo’s, one for right and one for left for stereo mode, but MAKE SURE that your speakers are again 8ohms because you will now be splitting them in half for “two” channels and then use a rca y-splitter to the other amp for the sub. That way the two channel amp, which has two channels can operate in stereo mode (left and right) and the third channel (coming from your y-splitter) can operate just the sub channel.

By no means will this be audiophile grade but I did enjoy instigating this conversation on further. This is something I did when I was 8 years old when my family members through stuff away, I though I could do something cool but in the end I just wasted a lot of time and energy. But I did enjoy the diy part.....
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Last edited by Audiophile75; 06-27-2019 at 06:53 PM.
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post #24 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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It all sounds easy..... doesn’t it? First, like someone told you on the other forum your power supply is too small which could be starving for “input” power and cutting out. Your amp sees a different ohm load than what it wants so that too could be cutting out because it’s working too hard “working power”.

I’m no expert but let’s try to simplify.

1st. Your power supply - try less speakers or a bigger power supply. Maybe try without the sub.

2nd. Forget about the term “watts” for your speakers, you are just confusing yourself. Instead use “ohms” because this right now is more important. Your tweeters need to be wired to 8ohms and your mids to 8ohms. Use your ohm meter to get close to 8 “ohms” in a series parallel configuration (google it) because you described + to + and - to - earlier and that would put you down to 2ohms which is the wrong way to go. Hint: when using your meter it will be hard to get exactly 8, just get close.

3rd try excluding you sub from this circuit and creating its own. Maybe get a rca y-splitter and use both amps, one for you highs and mids (don’t use the low on the xo board) and another amp for your subs. You could buy an f-mod with a 350hz (around) low pass just to run your second amp and sub in a 4ohm but hopefully a 8ohm load by it’s self.

So, here is what I would do.
I assume you have both red and white (left and right) rca’s coming from your tv. Use red for one amp and white for the other. The first amp will only power one channel (one input) to the one crossover (mono) where you can power the high and mid, don’t use the sub. The other rca output to the new fmod (<350 hz) then to the other amp then to the sub.
Another option is because your amp has two channels you should get two new two way xo’s, one for right and one for left for stereo mode, but MAKE SURE that your speakers are again 8ohms because you will now be splitting them in half for “two” channels and then use a rca y-splitter to the other amp for the sub. That way the two channel amp, which has two channels can operate in stereo mode (left and right) and the third channel (coming from your y-splitter) can operate just the sub channel.

By no means will this be audiophile grade but I did enjoy instigating this conversation on further. This is something I did when I was 8 years old when my family members through stuff away, I though I could do something cool but in the end I just wasted a lot of time and energy. But I did enjoy the diy part.....
Thank you so much for your K.I.S.S. response. While some of it I had to look up, I understand what you are saying. Yes, I have the red and white RCA output from my T.V. as my source. I like the first option you suggested as it seems that I simply need to get a fmod and then install the second amp I have, simple enough and the most cost-effective way to try to resolve my issue. I have gone back and pulled everything out of the box and ohm checked every speaker in the box and the spares I chose not to use. If I want to keep it simple, not buy any more amps or crossovers, other than the fmod, and keep the enclosure I built, I am may have to buy new drivers with the correct specified ohms. Every speaker was either 3, 4, 6, or 7 ohms and any combo of speakers for the mids and highs will not get the 8 ohms. The sub is only a 3ohm sub so, there's that.

1) If I get the correct power supply, speakers and, everything is wired to 8ohm, is there still a need to split the signal and run the second amp and fmod?

2) From what I'm understanding, everything (in my simplistic non-theater grade soundbar) comes down to the ohms that the drivers, crossover, and amp are rated for. The specs for the amp read (1x220W single channel in parallel BTL(Vcc = 36 V, RL = 3Ω, THD: 10%), is this relevant for my kindergarten audio education? I'm assuming it's not because it hasn't really been touched on, but I want to make sure.
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post #25 of 45 Old 06-27-2019, 10:49 PM
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Just to clarify here. Just because we say 2-4-8ohms doesn’t mean each speaker. You can have two or even twenty 4 ohm speakers and still come up with a final of 8ohms just by connecting them in the right manner. Remember that it’s not just one driver you are measuring but the entire circuit you are measuring (all the speakers wired together) to get your final reading.
If you measure both tweeters, (+to+ and -to-)you’ll probably get 2 something. Now wire them in series red wire to +, - to + of second speaker and - of second speaker to black wire. Now you will have 8ohms. You said you just want one amp but you have four mids, measure all of them individually then figure how to wire all four to get to 8ohms. With extra speakers on hand this should be easy.
Also, 7.2ohms is considered a 8ohm speaker, 3.6 is considered 4 ohms. “Just get close”. 2, 4 or 8 ohms are your prime numbers (generally).
Ideally you should run stereo to your sound bar (left and right) and then a single sub but because cost is an issue and you just want sound I get it.
And the 3 ohm sub is fine to run from your amp. It’s 4 ohms, as long as your amp can handle a 4 ohm load (most can).
If you can get the 8ohms load for your highs and mids you may not need the other amp. Run just the high and mids, then if everything is okay you can try the sub on the xo but I’m guessing without an upgraded power supply it will just fail again.
The power ratings for your amp and other things shouldn’t matter too much right now. In your case I wouldn’t worry to much about it, you are going for the “it works” theory first. Although this will get sound coming out of your speakers this would be far from ideal still. At best you should have an amp to run a left and right channel out your soundbar and another amp just to run your sub. Just saying.
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post #26 of 45 Old 06-28-2019, 02:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Just to clarify here. Just because we say 2-4-8ohms doesn’t mean each speaker. You can have two or even twenty 4 ohm speakers and still come up with a final of 8ohms just by connecting them in the right manner. Remember that it’s not just one driver you are measuring but the entire circuit you are measuring (all the speakers wired together) to get your final reading.
If you measure both tweeters, (+to+ and -to-)you’ll probably get 2 something. Now wire them in series red wire to +, - to + of second speaker and - of second speaker to black wire. Now you will have 8ohms. You said you just want one amp but you have four mids, measure all of them individually then figure how to wire all four to get to 8ohms. With extra speakers on hand this should be easy.
Also, 7.2ohms is considered a 8ohm speaker, 3.6 is considered 4 ohms. “Just get close”. 2, 4 or 8 ohms are your prime numbers (generally).
Ideally you should run stereo to your sound bar (left and right) and then a single sub but because cost is an issue and you just want sound I get it.
And the 3 ohm sub is fine to run from your amp. It’s 4 ohms, as long as your amp can handle a 4 ohm load (most can).
If you can get the 8ohms load for your highs and mids you may not need the other amp. Run just the high and mids, then if everything is okay you can try the sub on the xo but I’m guessing without an upgraded power supply it will just fail again.
The power ratings for your amp and other things shouldn’t matter too much right now. In your case I wouldn’t worry to much about it, you are going for the “it works” theory first. Although this will get sound coming out of your speakers this would be far from ideal still. At best you should have an amp to run a left and right channel out your soundbar and another amp just to run your sub. Just saying.
This all makes a lot more sense to me now. I just didn't think I could get the four 4ohm mids to 8 ohms, but I am willing to play around with the wiring now that I know that simply running the multimeter on them gives me that simple answer. I will also work the other amp into the mix for the sub. If it will be a better running system with better sound with what I have then I am game as this was the original intent before I monkeyed it all up and became more confused.

You mentioned the RCA y-splitter to split the audio from the T.V. to both amps. The way this is working in my mind is I split the audio before it reaches the amps with the y-splitters to send L&R sound to both amps. But on the amp for the sub, I would install the inline fmods 200hz low pass on the L&R before they enter the second amp. I then come off the second amp to the sub for a designated amplified signal to the sub. I already have the aforementioned upgraded power source in my partsexpress shopping cart as well as the fmods but didn't want to buy them until I heard back.

I've added a crude schematic of what I am understanding. Does this look correct as far as what you are suggesting I try? If so then I am ready to take another wack at this.
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Your flow chart looks okay (although still flawed). So many things to pick apart still. For one, your passive xo starts at 375hz (for your sub) and you picked a 200hz fmod, this should as close to the 375 as possible or will will not receive the frequency’s in between. Two, you really should use the stereo amp as a two channel amp for both right and left rather than the mono signal going to your mid/high. It will be more stable and even sound better. Mono is good for subs and bad for everything else so two passive xo’s would be better in every way. And you need to y-split the left and right into both amps, if your sub plays the left channel and you mid/highs play the right your brain will be really confused, not just your ears. Red and white into both amps “stereo”.
But...... you should get sound to come out in a more stable better flowing way (than what you started with) but be prepared for failure though because what you are trying to design took people many years to understand and design. And even they get it wrong sometimes and they have all the blueprints for every component. You are essentially throwing mud on the wall and seeing if it sticks. I learned like that many years ago too and love this field because of that, I hope I gave you a general understanding and a good start. Good luck.

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post #28 of 45 Old 06-28-2019, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Your flow chart looks okay (although still flawed). So many things to pick apart still. For one, your passive xo starts at 375hz (for your sub) and you picked a 200hz fmod, this should as close to the 375 as possible or will will not receive the frequency’s in between. Two, you really should use the stereo amp as a two channel amp for both right and left rather than the mono signal going to your mid/high. It will be more stable and even sound better. Mono is good for subs and bad for everything else so two passive xo’s would be better in every way. And you need to y-split the left and right into both amps, if your sub plays the left channel and you mid/highs play the right your brain will be really confused, not just your ears. Red and white into both amps “stereo”.
But...... you should get sound to come out in a more stable better flowing way (than what you started with) but be prepared for failure though because what you are trying to design took people many years to understand and design. And even they get it wrong sometimes and they have all the blueprints for every component. You are essentially throwing mud on the wall and seeing if it sticks. I learned like that many years ago too and love this field because of that, I hope I gave you a general understanding and a good start. Good luck.
The way I drew it out, I would be using two y-splitters to maintain the left and right channel for both amps, I just split the single source into (2) lefts and (2) rights before it reaches the amps. The second amp is installed and the sub does not run through the crossover. The fmod at 200 hz low pass was the closest I could find to 375hz when I looked last night, but I will keep trying to find the correct one based off of what you are saying.

If I am understanding what you're saying regarding the stereo v. mono, even though I would be running the signal as left and right into both amps via the y-splitters, because I am using the amp for the highs and mids in the 1x220w configuration instead of the 2x120 I am still only sending a mono signal to the highs and mids amp? I thought because I was splitting both the left and right channel and sending them both to their respective amps that I would still be using the stereo channel. That the 1x220 configuration on the amp was still a stereo sound, just capable of handling more watts than the 2x120 setup. I am trying to get the stereo sound that your talking about which is why I was incorporating the second amp. And yes, I have learned that this field is much more complicated than I thought, but I am in the mix at the moment and the only solution for me is to work my way out of it, I'm not one to like to give up on a project.
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post #29 of 45 Old 06-28-2019, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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So what I'm thinking now, is I'll upgrade the power source to the beefer Meanwell power source. Add a second crossover at 500hz low pass. Run one stereo signal to the 1x220 amp to feed the crossover for the highs and mids only, all wired to 8ohms. Send the second stereo signal to the 1x200 amp that will feed the new 500hz low pass crossover and feed the sub only. If I am on the right track then I will have two stereo signals feeding two separate amps and two separate crossovers. The larger power source should be able to manage the power need by both amps and I should have something closer to an operational soundbar.
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post #30 of 45 Old 06-28-2019, 11:39 AM
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Wow, hold on and take a breath. Let’s start with watts, I have twice the size speakers in my house being fed by only 95watts a piece and they are loud! In no way do you need so many watts for your project but because you do have the amps already this is not a bad thing. “”Stereo”” is a right and a left channel (red and white rca) and each channel of a stereo input needs its own channel all the way through the flow chart to the speakers. So, just because you plug in a stereo input does NOT mean you have stereo output.
Let’s start at the speakers this time. Four mids and two tweeters. Split them into two sides, Three on the right and three on the left (stereo). Each side must have its own input, amp and xo. You CANNOT combine the right and the left in any way. You can combine all the woofers “ON ONE SIDE” to get a desired ohm rating. But in this case you are making a three way full range speaker, not a two way with a sub.

Here it is.... use you amp in a 2x100 mode. Input you rca’s into each channel (right and left - 1 or 2) then buy another xo board identical to the one you have (one for the right side and one for the left side) then take two mids and wire them to 8ohms and connect them to the mid location on EACH board. Each tweeter should be connected to the tweeter output on each board (right xo and left xo) and now you have two empty lows. Find two 8ohm woofers (notice I didn’t say SUBwoofers) and Connect each one to the low. NOW you have one amp producing 2 channels (stereo) into two xo’ s (left and right) which give your sound-bar, wait for it........ stereo sound in a three way configuration (this is GREAT)!!

Or buy two 2-way xo’s (like I suggested in my first post) Which would probably be better so you can then use the second amp as your subwoofer at 200hz and down.

Then if you get board use the other amp with one output “mono” to a single subwoofer of your choosing with an Fmod frequency of your choosing. This will be your SUBwoofer.

Last edited by Audiophile75; 06-28-2019 at 12:00 PM.
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