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post #31 of 117 Old 07-18-2019, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post


Please go over this with a fine tooth comb. Tried to keep ports the exact same size but that’s not possible so one needs to change but only very slightly. I doubt it changes anything though. I very easily could of made a mistake so someone let me know if you want to work through it with me to make sure it’s correct.


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One of the upper window frame braces is 13.75". I will have to look at it closer later.

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post #32 of 117 Old 07-18-2019, 08:13 PM
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This is the LaVoce SAN214.50 vs the B&C 21DS115-8 at 1w1m.

Dayton PA460 vs B&C 21DS115-8 1w1m
]
Are you telling me a $90 pa460 is similar to a $600 21”? It looks pretty close which makes me wonder if I’m reading this wrong.
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post #33 of 117 Old 07-19-2019, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
One of the upper window frame braces is 13.75". I will have to look at it closer later.


Are you referring to the one I added 3/16” to? Those are tricky but since I kept the front ports the same size the rear chamber had to increase by the difference of 3 plywood’s thick. But again very well could of made a mistake lol


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post #34 of 117 Old 07-19-2019, 04:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Audiophile75 View Post
Are you telling me a $90 pa460 is similar to a $600 21”? It looks pretty close which makes me wonder if I’m reading this wrong.
1w1m yes, but one is done at 11mm around 220 watts and the other doesn't stop until 21mm around 1600 watts The PA460 still gets to about 121db in the mids if I recall and 112 or 113db around 20Hz
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post #35 of 117 Old 07-19-2019, 04:14 AM
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B.M.D. - Beast Mode Devastator

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Originally Posted by Audiophile75 View Post
Are you telling me a $90 pa460 is similar to a $600 21”? It looks pretty close which makes me wonder if I’m reading this wrong.
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post #36 of 117 Old 07-19-2019, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophile75 View Post
Are you telling me a $90 pa460 is similar to a $600 21”? It looks pretty close which makes me wonder if I’m reading this wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
1w1m yes, but one is done at 11mm around 220 watts and the other doesn't stop until 21mm around 1600 watts The PA460 still gets to about 121db in the mids if I recall and 112 or 113db around 20Hz
The 21" has more power handling and xmax, it also has better inductance and almost certainly better CMS as well.


I imagine the two, when measured, will show the 21" having a much better (and cleaner) response than the 18."
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post #37 of 117 Old 07-19-2019, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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@Rcris
This is my educated guess where a 60.5x25.5x24 BMD will land. I compared it against standard BMD using window frames and also the 8.3ft3 18Hz tune box you linked. There is a lot of low end loss due to the loss of displacement, but it does have its advantage against the ported box. With a 47.75" vent the first port resonance is pretty low, but that is what it took to get it down to 19Hz tune.






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post #38 of 117 Old 07-19-2019, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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@superkyle I think the conversion looks good as far as panels and fitting go. I will tinker with the Hornresp model and see what it looks like, I would not expect anything too drastic. Just again not there top window frame is the same length as the upper front to back braces. The middle brace maintains the upper brace dimensions I saw in the sheet. Looks good!


Edit: They model so closely, I cannot tell what is what on the SPL graph lol.
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post #39 of 117 Old 07-20-2019, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
BMD vs Devastator 1w1m


BMD vs Stormbreaker (11cuft, 18Hz tune) 1w1m

Is the BMD represented in black?

If bad sound were Faital, good sound would be almost impossible
Killed two Mach5 21s and three UM-18s (and counting?)
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post #40 of 117 Old 07-20-2019, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiophile75 View Post
Are you telling me a $90 pa460 is similar to a $600 21”? It looks pretty close which makes me wonder if I’m reading this wrong.
^^^^^^^

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post #41 of 117 Old 07-21-2019, 03:48 AM
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Is the BMD represented in black?
Yes

Quote:
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^^^^^^^

This was answered a few posts up.



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post #42 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
I would have to play with it, but the resonator needs to be about 225in2, that would be 10 inches deep on 25.5in wide and the driver is 10 inches deep, so that would be 20 inches right there not counting cabinet material. When the resonator gets less cross sectional area the response flattens out and it becomes less efficient. Minimum is around 25.5in wide and 24in deep with that width.


How long would the enclosure have to be to achieve the same volume as your design of the 28” deep version?
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post #43 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 04:05 AM - Thread Starter
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How long would the enclosure have to be to achieve the same volume as your design of the 28” deep version?
In which direction are you trying to trim it down? Just width?

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post #44 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 05:16 AM
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I’ll be waiting for this^^^^^. I am planning on using Baltic birch to build my 2.

Plywood cutlist posted in POST 3
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post #45 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 06:15 AM
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In which direction are you trying to trim it down? Just width?


I was just thinking out loud for those of us that may want or need to increase the height or length if laying it down on it’s side and reducing the other 2 dimensions.

So in the view you are used to using, I was trying to cut down both width and depth and increase height. I don’t care how “ugly” it may look with where the “ports” exit on the front to maintain the cross sectional area and length. Please pay no attention to the dimensions in the picture. It’s for an example of layout.

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post #46 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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The original version has an external displacement of 29.4 cuft. The dimensions you have up there come in at 30.1 cuft, so it will be very close to the original with displacement.


Edit: @Purenv

The depth of the resonator should be 10.25inches, that should bring it very close to the original version. Then just calculate your rear displacement based off that depth. You could probably use vertical standing window frame for support around the vent on the bottom.

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post #47 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Plywood cutlist posted in POST 3
You are really tempting me to go with ply on this https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...4768265&ipos=6

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post #48 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
The original version has an external displacement of 29.4 cuft. The dimensions you have up there come in at 30.1 cuft, so it will be very close to the original with displacement.


Edit: @Purenv

The depth of the resonator should be 10.25inches, that should bring it very close to the original version. Then just calculate your rear displacement based off that depth. You could probably use vertical standing window frame for support around the vent on the bottom.


Those dimensions are not really what I would use. I was thinking, in stand up view, “y” height x 25.5 wide x 25.5 deep and solving for “y”. So 29.4 ft3 = 50803.2 in3
25.5 * 25.5 = 650.25
50803.2/650.25 = 78.28” in height = y

Unfortunately too tall, or if laying it on it’s side like I am, too long.

I’ll try and work the numbers a bit.

I might just stick with your dimensions and switch back to the 893s.
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post #49 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 12:54 PM
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You are really tempting me to go with ply on this https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...4768265&ipos=6


Plywood is the way to go IMO. 33% lighter pocket or brad nails easier. Less dust. Only thing MDF has Is price and smooth finishing. After my last MDF build I needed 2 people struggling to move it. Not worth it.


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post #50 of 117 Old 07-25-2019, 07:07 PM
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Only 13 cubic feet smaller than Submaximus,
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Only 13 cubic feet smaller than Submaximus,


That’s still a lot of box size reduction.
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post #52 of 117 Old 07-26-2019, 05:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Plywood is the way to go IMO. 33% lighter pocket or brad nails easier. Less dust. Only thing MDF has Is price and smooth finishing. After my last MDF build I needed 2 people struggling to move it. Not worth it.


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It is looking like each one is up to 5 sheets of ply. The added dimensions of panels and the shrinking of material were just enough so it would not fit on four.

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post #53 of 117 Old 07-26-2019, 08:55 AM
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It is looking like each one is up to 5 sheets of ply. The added dimensions of panels and the shrinking of material were just enough so it would not fit on four.


Well damn that sucks. I only ordered 8. I’m prob not going to end up ordering another. Maybe I can just pick up some other brand local from Lowe’s and just use it for the window bracing or something. What piece ends up left out?


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post #54 of 117 Old 08-06-2019, 11:13 AM
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Back in the states. Going to try and work out a cutlist to see what can be done or what I need to buy.


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post #55 of 117 Old 08-06-2019, 06:31 PM
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How many of these horn loaded subs do you have? Wish someone would design one for me, around the SP1804...nudge nudge wink wink.

Receiver: Onkyo TX-RZ730 (7.2.4) Crown XLS1000 (Atmos)
Front Wall: DIYSG Fusion10 L&R, Hybrid DIYSG Fusion10 center
Atmos/Surround: 4 Polk TSX 150C(DIY) 4 Yamaha NS-333
Subwoofers: 4 UM18 Full Marties 16Hz tune NU6000DSP x2, HS-24 Nearfield 11.5 ft^3 sealed NU12000, MINIDSP
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post #56 of 117 Old 08-07-2019, 04:18 AM
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How many of these horn loaded subs do you have? Wish someone would design one for me, around the SP1804...nudge nudge wink wink.


Use the parameters he has posted above and just change the driver specifics. I would venture to guess the drive would work just fine in the BDM but I’m not sure familiar so modeling it is always recommended.


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post #57 of 117 Old 08-07-2019, 05:01 AM - Thread Starter
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How many of these horn loaded subs do you have? Wish someone would design one for me, around the SP1804...nudge nudge wink wink.

1w1m with the SP1804. That is using MDF with the 8.25 port extension, tune is a little under 19Hz.
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post #58 of 117 Old 08-09-2019, 09:33 AM
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I think I can fit in two of these with ports facing sideways .Is there any preference in which direction the port faces behind AT screen?
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post #59 of 117 Old 08-09-2019, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I think I can fit in two of these with ports facing sideways .Is there any preference in which direction the port faces behind AT screen?

The nice thing about low frequencies they are not all that directional, pointing it sideways should have little effect if any. Exceptions, pointing it at the wall and then placing it one or two inches from that wall. You could see an effect in the response form that.

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post #60 of 117 Old 08-10-2019, 05:53 AM
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Going to break ground today cutting up the plywood. My previous builds I had the plywood ripped to smaller cuts before bringing it home so it was easy to cut to size on my table saw. This however I’m not quite sure. Thinking about building a diy rip guide or even buying a tracksaw. What do you guys use to rip down the full sheets?


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