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post #91 of 117 Old 08-13-2019, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
I'll look tonight but I believe they where the 1.5 in . No if it stuck up at all I just took my orbital sander and matched it up but it was very close even with out doing that

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Thanks again for your explanations. Figured it’s easier to ask now and the build go smooth than get stuck in the middle. Typically once I start putting it together I try to have the assembly finished the same day. Only issue here is there is no driver I can install yet


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post #92 of 117 Old 08-13-2019, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I started working on a project for a PA sub or MBM that lights stuff up, think mini Marty meets Devastator with a SAF184.03. It's probably going to look a little different when it is fully fleshed out, but I like it so far


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post #93 of 117 Old 08-14-2019, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
I started working on a project for a PA sub or MBM that lights stuff up, think mini Marty meets Devastator with a SAF184.03. It's probably going to look a little different when it is fully fleshed out, but I like it so far



I haven’t even finished this build and now you are making me consider other builds!! Stop it!!


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post #94 of 117 Old 08-14-2019, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I haven’t even finished this build and now you are making me consider other builds!! Stop it!!


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Finish it up and see how it does! I have had way too much time to think and not build lol.

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post #95 of 117 Old 08-14-2019, 10:01 AM
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Finish it up and see how it does! I have had way too much time to think and not build lol.

I should have the build completed (not stained or sanded) this weekend. Will sand and stain the next weekend and hope parts express actually ships the driver on the 27th so I can install the driver and begin tuning.

I’m very curious to see the in room response vs the model.


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post #96 of 117 Old 08-14-2019, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
I should have the build completed (not stained or sanded) this weekend. Will sand and stain the next weekend and hope parts express actually ships the driver on the 27th so I can install the driver and begin tuning.

I’m very curious to see the in room response vs the model.


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Cant wait to see pics I actually had ebony stain bought and ready to go but decided to match the paint in the room instead.

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post #97 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 04:51 AM
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I’m looking at the pictures for the OG Devastator and this one but having a tough time figuring out the center point dimension of the baffle cutout.
It appears to be somewhere around 2-3” plus the radius of the cutout but I figured it’s best to ask if there is a specific measurement for the center point. I think that’s the only dimension I’m consented about at this point. Once complete the cutout of the rails should be made to fit.


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post #98 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 04:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
I’m looking at the pictures for the OG Devastator and this one but having a tough time figuring out the center point dimension of the baffle cutout.
It appears to be somewhere around 2-3” plus the radius of the cutout but I figured it’s best to ask if there is a specific measurement for the center point. I think that’s the only dimension I’m consented about at this point. Once complete the cutout of the rails should be made to fit.


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Flip the ruler to the metric side and measure 30cm down from the top of the baffle. Should be just under 12 inches. Then just center at 12 inches and see if it looks right

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post #99 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 04:59 AM
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Flip the ruler to the metric side and measure 30cm down from the top of the baffle. Should be just under 12 inches. Then just center at 12 inches and see if it looks right


Haha so 12” to center then lol. Is there a dimensional picture that shows this that I missed? I feel like I’ve seen one at some point but couldn’t remember. Also away from any computer so couldn’t measure it on the drawing I modified.

Side note: is this dimension as critical as say the submax? It seems like moving it up or down an inch likely won’t have an effect since volume remains the same in both sections but not the expert lol


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post #100 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 05:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Haha so 12” to center then lol. Is there a dimensional picture that shows this that I missed? I feel like I’ve seen one at some point but couldn’t remember. Also away from any computer so couldn’t measure it on the drawing I modified.

Side note: is this dimension as critical as say the submax? It seems like moving it up or down an inch likely won’t have an effect since volume remains the same in both sections but not the expert lol


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Crap I was thinking Dev v1, whatever half of 28.5 is for center lol. If you are off less than an inch response would be changed very small fractions of a db. A foot down from the top of the baffle is close enough.

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post #101 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
Crap I was thinking Dev v1, whatever half of 28.5 is for center lol. If you are off less than an inch response would be changed very small fractions of a db. A foot down from the top of the baffle is close enough.

Now I’m getting confused lol.
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Dimension X in the picture above should be 14.25” which is 1/2 of the 28.5”. Dimension Y on the other hand I do not know what is it. The access panel is 22.5” ( at least for the MDF version) so you can center it to the access panel at 11.25 down from the top of the access panel but with a 20” cutout that only gives you 1.25” material at the top. Moving it to 12 inches like you said above gives you 2 inches. Is the 12” the correct dimension for the Y dimension?

Sorry I feel like I’m not making any sense lol I’m not very good at explaining what I’m asking. Hopefully that helps haha.


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post #102 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 06:09 AM
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Now I’m getting confused lol.
Attachment 2603146

Dimension X in the picture above should be 14.25” which is 1/2 of the 28.5”. Dimension Y on the other hand I do not know what is it. The access panel is 22.5” ( at least for the MDF version) so you can center it to the access panel at 11.25 down from the top of the access panel but with a 20” cutout that only gives you 1.25” material at the top. Moving it to 12 inches like you said above gives you 2 inches. Is the 12” the correct dimension for the Y dimension?

Sorry I feel like I’m not making any sense lol I’m not very good at explaining what I’m asking. Hopefully that helps haha.


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Different version but I only had 1.5 or 2 in

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post #103 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...bass-horn.html

Take a little read here. Notice the relationship of the sub to S1 and S2. The sub is centered over the junction of S1-S2. Looking at the input for BMD that is 30 cm from the end/top of the front chamber.
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post #104 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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It is a bit tight towards the top, just over an inch.
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post #105 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
Different version but I only had 1.5 or 2 in

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Thanks for the help. I think I got it now!


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post #106 of 117 Old 08-15-2019, 07:51 AM
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B.M.D. - Beast Mode Devastator

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Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
It is a bit tight towards the top, just over an inch.


Thanks for this. And thanks for the link. I’ll try and give it a read when I get some time away from work.

Without a full understanding sometimes it’s easier for someone to just say hey dumba** just measure 1.06 inches then add the radius.

Since it’s a 20” cutout I’ll measure 11.06 inches from the top for the center point of the cutout!



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post #107 of 117 Old 08-16-2019, 10:38 AM
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Good news bad news situation here....

Good news: Back to work building the speakers

Bad news: 1” from being done with the first baffle the darn router bit snapped.

Bad news 2: despite being extra cautious and setting the diameter exactly perfect. The milescraft circle guide missed the mark. The cutout is 20 3/32. Little too big. Unfortunately I’m out of plywood so I can only hope that it doesn’t cause a problem. Looking at the screw diameter I’m fairly certain I’m ok. What do you guys think?


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post #108 of 117 Old 08-16-2019, 11:37 AM
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Second baffle is dead on!


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post #109 of 117 Old 08-16-2019, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Good news bad news situation here....

Good news: Back to work building the speakers

Bad news: 1” from being done with the first baffle the darn router bit snapped.

Bad news 2: despite being extra cautious and setting the diameter exactly perfect. The milescraft circle guide missed the mark. The cutout is 20 3/32. Little too big. Unfortunately I’m out of plywood so I can only hope that it doesn’t cause a problem. Looking at the screw diameter I’m fairly certain I’m ok. What do you guys think?


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I also had a mishap I was so used to using the bc21ds115 so I forgot my rears where the 18sound 21s and did the cutout to large lol.

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post #110 of 117 Old 08-16-2019, 04:18 PM
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I also had a mishap I was so used to using the bc21ds115 so I forgot my rears where the 18sound 21s and did the cutout to large lol.

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Haha oops! I just hope the error will still allow me to screw in the sub without issues.


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post #111 of 117 Old 08-17-2019, 06:42 AM
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Waiting for some glue to dry. Gave my first shot at the window bracing. Much easier than I expected. I think they turned out pretty good!


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post #112 of 117 Old 08-17-2019, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Attachment 2603752

Waiting for some glue to dry. Gave my first shot at the window bracing. Much easier than I expected. I think they turned out pretty good!


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How much of the main cabinet structure is together?

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post #113 of 117 Old 08-17-2019, 10:44 AM
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How much of the main cabinet structure is together?


I’m kinda holding off putting all the pictures only bc I planned to put together an instructional with where to put pocket holes and build order etc. I will say I would not want to build this without pocket holes. Even with somewhere around 12 clamps there are just a couple parts that are very tricky to clamp parallel.

To answer your questions though I’ve got both boxes built to this point.

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Port board bottom and back are also built up but I have clamps in the way so those will go on tonight. That will likely be the stopping point for today.


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I’m kinda holding off putting all the pictures only bc I planned to put together an instructional with where to put pocket holes and build order etc. I will say I would not want to build this without pocket holes. Even with somewhere around 12 clamps there are just a couple parts that are very tricky to clamp parallel.

To answer your questions though I’ve got both boxes built to this point.

Attachment 2603870Attachment 2603874Attachment 2603872Attachment 2603868


Port board bottom and back are also built up but I have clamps in the way so those will go on tonight. That will likely be the stopping point for today.


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I agree I actually built the dev v1 with zero clamps . All my builds have been done with kreggs and pl3 and zero clamps. It definitely speeds up the process.

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post #115 of 117 Old 08-17-2019, 01:14 PM
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I agree I actually built the dev v1 with zero clamps . All my builds have been done with kreggs and pl3 and zero clamps. It definitely speeds up the process.

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Yeah I’m not sure how you attach the front port rails with the baffle to the top and front without them. Nothing to really clamp to except using a spare piece of wood and that still wasn’t that great. Pocket hole or bust IMO with the devastators. Unless of course you go with GSG which if designing the original would seem to be a very painless process for this build.
@LTD02 out of curiosity have you ever considered any builds shipping as plywood to cutdown on weight for the full Marty of devastator?


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post #116 of 117 Old 08-17-2019, 06:27 PM
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Yeah I’m not sure how you attach the front port rails with the baffle to the top and front without them. Nothing to really clamp to except using a spare piece of wood and that still wasn’t that great. Pocket hole or bust IMO with the devastators. Unless of course you go with GSG which if designing the original would seem to be a very painless process for this build.
@LTD02 out of curiosity have you ever considered any builds shipping as plywood to cutdown on weight for the full Marty of devastator?
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yeah, plywood creates its own challenges. if we go with the cheap stuff, it could have end-grain voids and could warp after it is cut. if we go with the good stuff, it's 3x more expensive. once the weight is heavy enough to require pallet shipping, and extra 20 pounds or whatever it is doesn't add much to the cost, if anything. high quality ply makes all the sense in the work if the cabs will be used in pro-audio where they will be moved and shipped around routinely. for cabs that will sit in place, i'm not sure that there is any real advantage. also, the good ply tends to be 18mm which is 0.708", whereas the MDF is, in theory, 0.750". with that much of a difference, the cabs would pretty much have to be recreated from the ground up.
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post #117 of 117 Old 08-17-2019, 08:10 PM
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yeah, plywood creates its own challenges. if we go with the cheap stuff, it could have end-grain voids and could warp after it is cut. if we go with the good stuff, it's 3x more expensive. once the weight is heavy enough to require pallet shipping, and extra 20 pounds or whatever it is doesn't add much to the cost, if anything. high quality ply makes all the sense in the work if the cabs will be used in pro-audio where they will be moved and shipped around routinely. for cabs that will sit in place, i'm not sure that there is any real advantage. also, the good ply tends to be 18mm which is 0.708", whereas the MDF is, in theory, 0.750". with that much of a difference, the cabs would pretty much have to be recreated from the ground up.


Thanks for the insight. I totally agree really no advantage against plywood. Really the only reason I ask is for the ease of it accepting pocket holes. I’ve ran pocket holes in MDF but found that they strip incredibly easily.

On a side note the cutting of plywood and warping I could see as a serious concern. I precut my 2 BMDs and have found a few boards have tried to curl a little. Pocket holes did save me but I get why MDF would be a more reliable choice for your company.




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