Slot port stuffing material - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-23-2019, 03:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Slot port stuffing material

What does everyone use to block a slot port on a diy sub? Something that might be aesthetically pleasing for WAF.
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-23-2019, 04:53 PM
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never had to do it but . . OTTOMH

carved / shaped to tight friction fit piece of Styrofoam,

some spray adhesive,

appropriately pleasing and aesthetically blending-in fabric of some sort . . pattern, wood grain, solid color, ?

to make it look like it belongs there . .
and once seen,never thought about again

got a pic of the problem/ offending vent?

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-23-2019, 06:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
never had to do it but . . OTTOMH

carved / shaped to tight friction fit piece of Styrofoam,

some spray adhesive,

appropriately pleasing and aesthetically blending-in fabric of some sort . . pattern, wood grain, solid color, ?

to make it look like it belongs there . .
and once seen,never thought about again

got a pic of the problem/ offending vent?
I'm building a pair of VBSS's with dual tuning. Was just thinking how to take advantage of the dual tuning without making an eyesore for my wife. Not meant to be permanent. I like the styrofoam idea though. I could make fake wood grain or something to try to match the cabinet.
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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You asked for a pic and I didn't give one ha. Here is a pic of one coat of stain
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 09:10 AM
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TY

for that long slot . .

a long narrow strip of wood with a rabbited edge (?) that lets it fit right in there
but
the insertable portion is reduced in dimension to allow the application of some 1/4" x 1/2" or 5/8" (TBD) foam weather stripping on all surfaces

for a tight, well sealed friction fit.

the center port brace , look well recessed wrt cab front,

so the inserted part, like a tenon, could be 3/4"-1" in depth (?) for alot more surface area, >more weather stripping foam> to assure more sealing

this is maybe why trying a foam mock up , foam from Jo-anns or Michaels,
for fit , some trial an error on the cheap
so you can then make a matching wooden piece that works, once, right, the first time.

HTH

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 09:13 AM
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or

if the foam can be made to fit to do the job
and has a reasonable exterior shape,
just add this: 5M/Roll Realistic Woodgrain Repair Adhensive Duct Tape

google it

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 01:48 PM
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I think I'd take a piece of foam, cut to the shape of the port or slightly larger. Then I'd wrap it in saran wrap (to make it air tight), then wrap that in a piece of fabric (to make it all black). That should stuff in there nicely and provide a tight friction fit.

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post #8 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 02:10 PM
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If it's going to be a sealed enclosure anyways, I'd not worry about a slight loss of cubic feet and go with a very secure wood cap on the inner opening of the port sealed with PL. It would look ported from the outside yet sealed but as ugly and strong as you'd like on the inside. Also, if you use foam or any lightweight material for cosmetics on the outside, it wouldn't get dislodged with heavy sub use.

Forgive the quick Paint edit for visualizing what I'm trying to describe. The red blocks would be where I'd apply a seal to block the port. No worries about messing up the cosmetic work you've clearly put in. Great looking cabinet!!

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post #9 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
TY

for that long slot . .

a long narrow strip of wood with a rabbited edge (?) that lets it fit right in there
but
the insertable portion is reduced in dimension to allow the application of some 1/4" x 1/2" or 5/8" (TBD) foam weather stripping on all surfaces

for a tight, well sealed friction fit.

the center port brace , look well recessed wrt cab front,

so the inserted part, like a tenon, could be 3/4"-1" in depth (?) for alot more surface area, >more weather stripping foam> to assure more sealing

this is maybe why trying a foam mock up , foam from Jo-anns or Michaels,
for fit , some trial an error on the cheap
so you can then make a matching wooden piece that works, once, right, the first time.

HTH
I like this idea. I have matching plywood and plenty of stain left. I could make a knob for easy removal for whatever purpose I use it for. Appreciate the input
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
I think I'd take a piece of foam, cut to the shape of the port or slightly larger. Then I'd wrap it in saran wrap (to make it air tight), then wrap that in a piece of fabric (to make it all black). That should stuff in there nicely and provide a tight friction fit.
This sounds like a great temporary fix. I think I like the idea of making the port with wood as mentioned above. I could do this for a quick fix... Only worry is I might leave it that way for to being lazy haha
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notfastenough View Post
If it's going to be a sealed enclosure anyways, I'd not worry about a slight loss of cubic feet and go with a very secure wood cap on the inner opening of the port sealed with PL. It would look ported from the outside yet sealed but as ugly and strong as you'd like on the inside. Also, if you use foam or any lightweight material for cosmetics on the outside, it wouldn't get dislodged with heavy sub use.

Forgive the quick Paint edit for visualizing what I'm trying to describe. The red blocks would be where I'd apply a seal to block the port. No worries about messing up the cosmetic work you've clearly put in. Great looking cabinet!!

It won't be sealed. It is dual tuning VBSS, at 15 and 20 Hz. I was thinking something that would be more adjustable to leave the option to change it up for whatever I like best.

Thanks. My first diy build. I now have 3 coats on.
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-24-2019, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingssoldier08 View Post
It won't be sealed. It is dual tuning VBSS, at 15 and 20 Hz. I was thinking something that would be more adjustable to leave the option to change it up for whatever I like best.

Thanks. My first diy build. I now have 3 coats on.
D'OH! Missed that part, but I see now. If you decide to only block one vent, it might look a bit "off" with only one vent plugged with a nice cosmetic piece and the other side open.

I'd opt for a plug that can fit into the port a little ways and maybe have a lip that catches the port brace to keep it from going in too far. Or maybe a small nail or screw inserted from the bottom of the cabinet to prevent if from going in too far. Make the plug black and put a couple of flat nylon straps on the face of it at each end to make removal easy. The strap should lay flat and out of sight. Just another option.
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