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-   -   Submaximus V3 UXL18 Build (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/3084338-submaximus-v3-uxl18-build.html)

roweaz 08-13-2019 05:59 PM

Submaximus V3 UXL18 Build
 
1 Attachment(s)
Having built two F20s, and a lilwrecker previously, wanted to give this big boy a go. I have the wood, I have the UXL-18, but I also have questions.

When laying out the measurements on one side panel I noticed that because of the length of B, assuming that C is perpendicular to F, even small adjustments to measurements 4 and 5 cause the spacing between panels A and B where they meet H to vary considerably.

I wondered if anyone knew what that measurement should be. Or, another way to answer that question would be to know how far the driver center should be from the end of Panel B so that you could set that point 3.23 inches from A.


I didn't see this info elsewhere, and from pictures I've googled, it seems there has been some variation in the driver center placement. Is it really that non important?

Of course I would have posted the original layout image in this post for convenience however I will have to respond to myself 4 times first. :)

BryceDH 08-13-2019 06:08 PM

Sub'd... submaximus's are awesome!

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Russdawg1 08-13-2019 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BryceDH (Post 58419790)
Sub'd... submaximus's are awesome!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Make it two! :)

hd0823 08-13-2019 08:15 PM

Measurement 1 Is the most important one to get dead on . I had small variations on some of the other measurements. I just found where 3.23 was from panal a marked a dot on b and than marked a dot at 12 inchs down for the center.

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asarose247 08-13-2019 08:42 PM

2 Attachment(s)
^

exactly

dry fit, measure

roweaz 08-13-2019 10:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the quick responses guys. I must just be being dense.

In my photo, if you adjust the measurement at location A by just 3/32 of an inch, it adjusts the measurement at location B by 1/4 inch. This in turn adjusts the measurement to where the throat is 3.23" from ~6.8 to 10 3/8" at location C. So, 6.8" won't work for an 18" driver, much less a 21" that some are using. The 10 3/8 will work for the 18" fine, but would be questionable for a 21". I guess I just thought if the correct measurement was known for the distance between Panel A and Panel B at Panel H, then you could set Panel B, measure up to 3.23" and know that was the correct center for the driver. Otherwise, if the correct measurement was known for the center of the driver to edge of Panel B, then you could set that point 3.23" from Panel A and know it was correct. What I am doing just feels like guessing. I would think that the flare rate and distance behind the driver would be important.

From your photo asarose247, it appears the measurement I am asking about is 2 3/8" resulting in a driver center of 15 7/8" from the end of the panel. However, photos from another build appear to be closer to 11 inches.

I just want to make sure before I continue.

Thanks for the help.

asarose247 08-13-2019 10:54 PM

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...mus+2016+Redux

HTH

i probably did the "easy" panels, F, E, I
which then lead to A, H,D and then a dry fit G
to see how it all lined up for B to hit it's end mark at pts 2, 3, 4
and the length it was to arrive at H

you'll see in my thread, if you already haven't, that some measurements / lengths were changed to accommodate my 'sanderply " thickness of .709

and a big fat
TY
@ LTD02

asarose247 08-13-2019 11:10 PM

6 Attachment(s)
not all pics I took are in the thread

stabilizing "F"

my defense against "kreg creep"- hit the mark

dry fit of "H"

notice that A is not yet on
and that gap at A-C- kregs, PL3, and long ass 3/4" pipe clamps and blocking and . . .

those black right angles are a rockler product and handy as all get-out

roweaz 08-14-2019 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asarose247 (Post 58420564)
not all pics I took are in the thread

stabilizing "F"

my defense against "kreg creep"- hit the mark

dry fit of "H"

notice that A is not yet on
and that gap at A-C- kregs, PL3, and long ass 3/4" pipe clamps and blocking and . . .

those black right angles are a rockler product and handy as all get-out

Ok, on lunch today, I did a little HornResp school to understand the numbers for this project. With that I was able to figure that the center of the driver should be 11.81" from the end of Panel B

The measurement between Panel A and Panel B at Panel H should be 2.9".

Yea! Time to get this laid out and start cutting wood!

LTD02 08-14-2019 06:31 PM

the driver should be as close to the end of "B" without creating any problems, perhaps leaving an inch or so to be able to access the mounting screws.

measurement between A and B at panel H is just a hair under 2.9" on my screen, so that's close enough.

i drew this one up before i had any real sketchup skills, so it is actually a microsoft word drawing. :-)

when you go to place panel B, i'd get the other end of the board in place at measurements "2" and "3", then pivot the board around that point until the center of the driver is 3.23" from "A".

like the other guys have said, the 3.23" measurement is the one that will have the greatest impact on performance, so just try to get that one accurate. all the others can give or take a little.

roweaz 08-27-2019 12:00 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by roweaz (Post 58424200)
Ok, on lunch today, I did a little HornResp school to understand the numbers for this project. With that I was able to figure that the center of the driver should be 11.81" from the end of Panel B

The measurement between Panel A and Panel B at Panel H should be 2.9".

Yea! Time to get this laid out and start cutting wood!

So, kids finally got off to college, and work stopped beating me to death, and I finally got to get in the shop on this.

First, as mentioned above, the dimensions need a bit of "wiggling", and once I had that part sorted out, I got to work cutting panels and mocking things up.


I just use a worm drive to make initial cuts on full sheets. I screw a guide piece of aluminum to some MDF or plywood or whatever I have laying around, run the saw down it to cut the edge of where the blade is, and then use that to guide me on full panel cuts. Also notice the sheet of 1" styrofoam below. I just set the depth of the blade to just get into that and then don't worry about raising the sheet goods for saw clearance when cutting.

After the panels are cut that way there was a variance of about 1/16" so I set the table saw fence to that width and ran the rest of the panels (23.875") through so there wasn't any variation.

Pocket holes do make a great way to hold stuff in place while working from the top side. I used them to mock up panels to make sure they fit the way I wanted.

roweaz 08-27-2019 12:06 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by roweaz (Post 58424200)
Ok, on lunch today, I did a little HornResp school to understand the numbers for this project. With that I was able to figure that the center of the driver should be 11.81" from the end of Panel B

The measurement between Panel A and Panel B at Panel H should be 2.9".

Yea! Time to get this laid out and start cutting wood!

After fitting all the panels, I removed them all and did a bit of measuring to determine where I would put bracing. I also wanted to get all the measurements using 23/32" plywood so I could post exactly what I did when I am done.

I also found by changing up the way the outside edge panel fit, it is much easier to get all your cuts from 4 sheets without any of them being marginal or slightly short. Again, I will post that at the end with my conclusions.

You may also notice that I had measured the angles to a couple of the joints and had cut those panels at those angles.

chadsmith013 08-27-2019 12:15 PM

@tarponater should build these..

roweaz 08-27-2019 12:26 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Next up was the baffle plate. The UXL measured 16 3/4" just past the foam surround so I used my trusty router circle tool to cut out the hole. You can see in the second photo that I had also measured the outside diameter of the driver and marked that on the baffle plate as well. This makes it easy to center up the driver when placing it over the hole you just cut so you don't rest it on the surround and can mark where the mounting bolt holes need to be.

I used T-Nuts and placed just a tiny bit of PL on the back of each before setting them.

Though I didn't photo it, I did use my router to cut a 45 degree chamfer around the hole on the driver side just to create a bit more clearance between the baffle plate and the edge of the foam surround of the driver.

roweaz 08-27-2019 12:41 PM

3 Attachment(s)
After some consideration, I decided to use some 1/2" plywood I had around to construct the bracing instead of the 3/4". As I planned to using long bracing, the 1/2" takes up a bit less of the internal dimension. Whether it would make any difference or not, I don't know.

After cutting some of the bracing, it was finally time to start reconstructing the cabinet and glueing it up.

I started with Panel H and then A. This gave me a chance to attach the internal bracing to Panel A before placing Panel B up against it.

Next was Panel F, then the bracing on the back side of Panel B. Then I could refit Panel B and finally add Panel G.

The key here is to plan ahead and make sure you leave yourself ways to get to each place you need access to.
And that brings me up to current. It will be a couple days before I am able to get back at it.

hd0823 08-27-2019 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roweaz (Post 58479664)
After some consideration, I decided to use some 1/2" plywood I had around to construct the bracing instead of the 3/4". As I planned to using long bracing, the 1/2" takes up a bit less of the internal dimension. Whether it would make any difference or not, I don't know.



After cutting some of the bracing, it was finally time to start reconstructing the cabinet and glueing it up.



I started with Panel H and then A. This gave me a chance to attach the internal bracing to Panel A before placing Panel B up against it.



Next was Panel F, then the bracing on the back side of Panel B. Then I could refit Panel B and finally add Panel G.



The key here is to plan ahead and make sure you leave yourself ways to get to each place you need access to.

And that brings me up to current. It will be a couple days before I am able to get back at it.

Nice work. Your going to love the performance of the v3.

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Samps 08-27-2019 03:12 PM

To get less after squeeze from your PL, just relieve the pressure on the gun. Simply pull back the rod so it’s not pressed up against the tube. It will still ooze out, but not quite as bad.

asarose247 08-27-2019 04:34 PM

3 Attachment(s)
uuuhhhhhh . . .

usually, T-nuts , some extra work wrt alignment,
YMMV,

not too familiar with PL3 metal and wood combo ,

for all the wanna-be King Kong drivers mounting screw tighteners, yeah, you can compromise T-nut integrity,

not like a driver is usually a high R & R item,

but

this is secured with 5 minute epoxy and the anti-twist / push-out screw

OTOH, for my V3 I used backer blocks and Kreg screws to secure the driver

Tyler Dobson 08-27-2019 05:18 PM

these builds make me wish more and more I had some decent woodworking space and tools, subbed

kevings 08-27-2019 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tyler Dobson (Post 58480898)
these builds make me wish more and more I had some decent woodworking space and tools, subbed

Hey Tyler, you're always welcome to borrow anything I've got in my garage....table saw, circular saw, router, clamps, hvlp setup, etc.

(When I first got into DIY, Asarose247 was generous enough to do the same thing for me and show me the ropes, so if I can do that for you, just let me know).

Randy_J 08-28-2019 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevings (Post 58481764)
Hey Tyler, you're always welcome to borrow anything I've got in my garage....table saw, circular saw, router, clamps, hvlp setup, etc.

(When I first got into DIY, Asarose247 was generous enough to do the same thing for me and show me the ropes, so if I can do that for you, just let me know).

That is quite the awesome offer. Good on you there are not many these days that are willing to help others out. To bad these things are so huge a flat pack would be awesome, but i can only imagine trying to ship something that long and large. That would probably cost a fortune.

tarponater 08-28-2019 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chadsmith013 (Post 58479540)
@tarponater should build these..

I might do it in a couple weeks

Randy_J 08-28-2019 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tarponater (Post 58482776)
I might do it in a couple weeks

Maybe this is the time to finish the redo for use with the hs-24's :D

hd0823 08-28-2019 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy_J (Post 58483200)
Maybe this is the time to finish the redo for use with the hs-24's :D

Lol I asked John about using the 24 in a horn enclosure a while back he said the box would be over 120cf [emoji33]

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Craig S King 08-28-2019 03:20 PM

Roweaz, in your opinion so far, do you think it would be possible to build these cabinets WITHOUT using the Kreg pocket hole screw technique? Could you just run screws from the outside panel into the various port panels?

roweaz 08-28-2019 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig S King (Post 58485578)
Roweaz, in your opinion so far, do you think it would be possible to build these cabinets WITHOUT using the Kreg pocket hole screw technique? Could you just run screws from the outside panel into the various port panels?

Absolutely. I did my two F20s and the lilwrecker that way. I just hung the assembly off the edge of my work table so I could get at the “back” side to run the screws in. Of course you need to move it around a bit to get to all the places you would need screws.

This is just a very large cab and since I have pocket hole tools I elected to give that a try. I seriously considered just doing it the way above as pocket holes can creep a bit if not braced or if you aren’t experienced with compensating for the creep.

roweaz 08-28-2019 04:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig S King (Post 58485578)
Roweaz, in your opinion so far, do you think it would be possible to build these cabinets WITHOUT using the Kreg pocket hole screw technique? Could you just run screws from the outside panel into the various port panels?

An example from my lilwrecker build....

Randy_J 08-28-2019 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hd0823 (Post 58483520)
Lol I asked John about using the 24 in a horn enclosure a while back he said the box would be over 120cf [emoji33]

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Oh come on somebody has to have the room for it. That is only 3'x4'x10'. And i already looked and you can get plywood in 10' lenghts. The ideal situation for that would be a room built over a crawlspace and drop them in before the floor goes in. Or maybe build them in place as part of the floor. It almost seems reasonable dosen't it.

tarponater 08-29-2019 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy_J (Post 58483200)
Maybe this is the time to finish the redo for use with the hs-24's :D

LOL! That 24 is already in the theater. I put it in a 12.5 ft^3 sealed cabinet nearfield. The energy it puts into the couch is simply breathtaking.

notfastenough 08-29-2019 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tarponater (Post 58489390)
LOL! That 24 is already in the theater. I put it in a 12.5 ft^3 sealed cabinet nearfield. The energy it puts into the couch is physically breathtaking.

There you go ;)


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