Dual Beast Mode Devastator Build and Integration - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Dual Beast Mode Devastator Build and Integration

Creating this thread to highlight my newest build!

Let the fun begin!

I started the build by cutting all required pieces from 8 sheets of arauco plywood per the converted dimension sheet attached

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33 plywood pieces each for a total of 66 plywood dimensional pieces. Massive cut list for sure.

I have a table saw but cutting down a full sheet of 3/4” plywood was a bit too much for me to attempt on the table saw. The ideal tool here would be a tracksaw but for those that do not already own a tracksaw this guide is perfect. Took me less than an hour to put together including glue drying time and proved to be a life saver. Highly recommend this for accurate tips of the plywood.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools...utting-guides/

Sorry I digress...let’s get back to the build!

The first pieces I put together were the from port rails to the inner baffle. It is mission critical that these port rails remain flush with the top and bottom of the baffle. These part also requires a notch to be cutout to allow the installed driver to flex without contact. To cutout the notch just test fit the port rail and measure about an inch from the edge of the driver cutout on both the upper and lower area of the port rail. Cut at this location 2” deep. Below is a picture for reference.

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Attach the rails to the inner baffle however if you are using pocket holes than take note to the picture above and below as they provide reference to the locations pocket holes would be helpful.

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Once you have the inner baffle completed to this point...
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I began work on the BMD enclosure itself.

I attached the top and front panel to the side and then installed the inner baffle with the Port rails. Again pocket holes proved to be extremely useful here again as clamping some of these pieces can be tricky.

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Next up was the installation of the port rails, port boards and bottom board.

The order that I installed them was the same as outlined in the OG devastator page.

Port bottom —>bottom—>port back

Here is a picture of the finished result.

Had to use some clever clamp techniques to get it to stay nice and flush lol

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With the glue dry enough to unclamp I moved onto the side installation. This required a combination of around 7 total clamps and about 12 pocket holes to ensure it lined up perfectly.

Starting to actually look like a subwoofer!!!

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It’s about this point that the realization of the sheer size of this beast really sets in. To quote my wife “WTF that is huge”

...couldn’t of said it better myself lol

Getting the bracing installed took a little time as I used a scrap piece of plywood to ensure that the spacing was correct. To me this is crucial bc you can fill gaps if there are any at this point but when you out the back on it better Be flush because there is no way to get back inside this area.



Copious amounts of PL3 is recommended when installing the back! I used clamps all the way around and even used 2 wood screws on the bottom to make sure everything stays perfectly flush. Not a big deal for my build as they will be covered by the finishing work I will be doing.


Before installation of the back panel I recommend running the speaker wire and cutting out whatever size hole is needed for your connector. I also ziptied the wire tightly to the window braces to ensure nothing rattled inside this beast.



With the back installed it is time to mount the driver internally. I used 1/4” speaker foam to ensure the driver has a nice tight seal.

I also used copper washers to help seat the driver as tight as possible and not stress the driver holes.




Once the driver is mounted it’s time to cut the speaker wire to fit. Install the speaker wire to the driver and solder the other end to the speak on connector.

At this point you should ensure that everything is completely finished. Once you seal this up you do not want to have to open it again as the top should be very flush which makes it fairly difficult to open again.

Wrap the 2x4s in the same speaker foam used for the driver to help ensure an airtight seal. This foam with the pressure from the screws are all that holds the air in so ensure a seamless install of the foam.

With the foam installed it’s time to close up the final piece.

It is at this time I planned to test the enclosure to ensure it is well build before putting the work into finishing and painting.


Well getting back to work I sanded down the enclosures to make them smooth and even as possible. Then trimmed the enclosure using 3 inch strips of plywood. I went ahead and did all sides except the back. This allows me to stand it up or lay it down and maintain the finished look. Inside the plywood trim I added some pine cove molding to help give it a more finished look. It’s harder to pick out in pictures but looks great in person.

After getting everything cut and nail down all nail holes and seams were sealed using spackle. The modeling was caulked and the box was sanded one last time. At this point it is basically ready for paint. Hopefully I can get to painting them next weekend.



More to come as this is my current progress.
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post #2 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 06:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Dual Beast Mode Devastator Build and Integration

Initial model showing desired build response.









preliminary REW sweeps showing nearfield (3” away) measurements to compare to model.





Looks about as good as you could of hoped for!



Now to work on full integration! .



Room Picture to Understand Naming Convention ..




FP = ports closest to fireplace
Win = ports closest to window (corner loaded)

Left Sub (As seen looking into the room from Picture) Average Measurements across three main seating positions With Ports closest to fireplace vs ports closest to window (Corner Loaded).

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Right Sub (As seen looking into the room from Picture) Average Measurements across three main seating positions With Ports closest to fireplace vs ports closest to window (Corner Loaded).


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Rythmik Average measurements across three main seating positions


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post #3 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Today’s stopping point....getting closer

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post #4 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 02:13 PM
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It is looking good

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Five View Post
It is looking good


Thanks man. I will say this build is a good bit harder than my previous Marty subs. Still have to install the window braces on the second sub and 2x4s. I can’t really work on them during the week..maybe 30-45 minutes per day but I hope to finish the build by Friday. Spend the weekend sanding and prepping for finishing and stain/paint Sunday. Still looking like 30th or 31st will be the first run with the new subs.


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post #6 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 03:35 PM
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Wow, busy day, looking good! Looking forward to hearing your review of the finished product!
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SPEAKERS: 3 x DIYSG 1099's LCR; DIYSG HTM 6's and 8's surround; 4 x RSL C34E's atmos.
SUBS: 4 x UM18-22 Mini Marty's (and always building, currently working on Devastators).
SIGNAL CHAIN: Denon X4400; Minidsp 2x4 HD; 2 x Jensen Iso Sub 2RX; 2 x NX6000d.
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post #7 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow, busy day, looking good! Looking forward to hearing your review of the finished product!

I actually started the build on Friday. It’s been slow going but long days have made good progress so far! Getting antsy to give these twins a demo!


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post #8 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 04:14 PM
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The cabinets are coming along nicely and at a good pace. Keep it up, and you'll be done before you know it. Hopefully, your house is ready for what's coming : )
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The cabinets are coming along nicely and at a good pace. Keep it up, and you'll be done before you know it. Hopefully, your house is ready for what's coming : )


Thanks Kevin! Can’t say I’ve ever heard Bass at the level I’m about to experience. Super excited!


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post #10 of 141 Old 08-18-2019, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Since the box is so large i was told to get a pillow to break up the possibility of the standing wave.

Figured any cheap one would do fine. Any issues with the one I’m linking below?

https://www.target.com/p/standard-qu...3/-/A-54221557


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post #11 of 141 Old 08-21-2019, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Despite working 12 hour days every day this week and not having a single second to get more done on the build I still would say it’s a good week! Just got tracking numbers for the lavoce drivers! Should arrive Friday or Saturday.

Now the decision of do I bring the speakers inside to test before finishing and painting lol


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post #12 of 141 Old 08-21-2019, 06:26 PM
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Despite working 12 hour days every day this week and not having a single second to get more done on the build I still would say it’s a good week! Just got tracking numbers for the lavoce drivers! Should arrive Friday or Saturday.

Now the decision of do I bring the speakers inside to test before finishing and painting lol


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Or take a laptop and amps into the garage and see if a door breaks like it did for Kevin

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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Or take a laptop and amps into the garage and see if a door breaks like it did for Kevin


Haha well we all know how that turned out!

I think I’ve already convinced myself to bring them inside and test. Would hate to find out they have a leak or some major rattle after sinking more time and money in finishing them. Plus I get to hear them sooner!


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post #14 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 05:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok I’m back at it today! Drivers have arrived and holy crap these things are massive!! Never seen a 21” driver before but wow! Now I’m getting super excited!


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Or take a laptop and amps into the garage and see if a door breaks like it did for Kevin
Red Five, can you tell me about this broken door?!?
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Red Five, can you tell me about this broken door?!?


Kevin took his devastator into the garage for testing it. It hits so hard it ended up messing up his garage door. Building these should come with a disclaimer lol


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post #17 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 10:23 AM
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Red Five, can you tell me about this broken door?!?
GSG went through several prototypes before they arrived at the current Devastator design. Keeping it builder friendly and structurally sound is a balancing act. Anyways he had one of the prototypes in the garage blaring music. Not too much later the garage door no longer moved down the track properly. Since the SAN214.50 was rattling the place a lot it seemed like too much of a coincidence

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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Red Five, can you tell me about this broken door?!?
A little more detail about what happened.... : )

A few months ago, we built the first Devastator prototype and we used the LaVoce 21 (San214.50) because it modeled well. Neither John (LTD02) or myself had ever heard a LaVoce though, so before we felt good about recommending it to customers, we wanted to really see what it could do.

My plan was to basically just play music at war volume levels for a couple of hours, and see if the driver ran into any issues. I fired up some Dubstep via the garage system, and we left to Costco, since we didn't want to be in the house during testing (Very loud, and even though the sub was in my garage, you could hear the music and feel the bass throughout the entire house...about 3k square feet and 2 story).

Costco on a weekend is nuts, especially out here in CA, so the trip took us over 2 hours. Driving back home, I rolled the windows down and slowly drove down our street because I was curious to see at which point I'd be able to hear the bass. At about 5-6 houses away from ours I could hear it, but even louder than the music was the rattling of the garage door. (imagine the trunk of car with hard hitting subs). Next, we pull up to our house, and into the driveway and I hit the remote to open the garage. The garage door rolls up but we notice it sticks/stutters. Wife isn't to happy about that, and I get a pretty severe eye roll from her (this isn't the first time that bass has broken something at our house, so I guess she didn't buy the "baby, it's just wear and tear....these things happen" line).

After that day, the door kept stuttering for a couple of weeks until I had a repairman come out, who said the door was misaligned.

: )

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The BMDs agressive climb from 20Hz to 40Hz is going to break something

Stormbreaker | Wisconsin Home Theater Meet Thread | The Devastator Index
You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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SuperKyle, Red Five, Kevings,

Thanks for filling me in! I got a good laugh out of that. Sounds like the Devastator is a really serious sub. I hope the garage door repair wasn't too expensive.

Dave
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SuperKyle, Red Five, Kevings,

Thanks for filling me in! I got a good laugh out of that. Sounds like the Devastator is a really serious sub. I hope the garage door repair wasn't too expensive.

Dave
The guy who showed up to repair the door was cool. Instead of charging me for repair work, he charged me for a simple maintenance call which cut the cost. I asked him if he wanted some music on while he worked, and we ended up listening to some classic rock on Pandora, while he messed around with the door. Volume that time was definitely "spirited" but not "war mode": since I didnt want the door dancing while he looked at it
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First sub is together and ready to be moved inside where the wires will be soldered to the speakon connector and subwoofer installed. (I figured installing the sub close to the location it will stay was the best way to save a little weight)

(Current progress sub 1)



Second sub I am waiting for the glue to dry and will install the lower back portion. And move it inside also to be finished up.


(Current progress sub 2)


Still a lot of work sanding and finishing for sure (as you can see by the glue marks etc) but that can wait until I get to hear these beasts!

Progress for sure!


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post #23 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 05:15 PM
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First sub is together and ready to be moved inside where the wires will be soldered to the speakon connector and subwoofer installed. (I figured installing the sub close to the location it will stay was the best way to save a little weight)
Looking good. Before sanding PL, I'd use a sharp chisels and get the majority of it off first, and then sand after that. You'll save a good amount of time that way.

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post #24 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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So how do you guys typically connect your wires to the speakon plug? In the past I’ve always soldered but I have some disconnect pairs and I’m wondering if using them would be just as good but easily removable.


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post #25 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking good. Before sanding PL, I'd use some sharp chisels and get the majority of it off first, and then sand after that. You'll save a good amount of time that way.


Thanks Kevin! I have been trying to knock off the beads here and there as I went along with a painters tool but yes totally plan on getting as much off before sanding. For ply what do you guys recommend starting with 80 or 120? I’ve always gone 120 but I’m sure going 80–>120–>220 would end up saving quite a bit of time.


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post #26 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 05:37 PM
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The PL really gums up the sandpaper. I used a jack knife and it made easy work of scrapping off the majority of the excess glue.

I used the disconnects on Stormbreaker. You will most likely end up having to get to different sizes. The 21DS115 had much larger connectors than the Speakon terminator.

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You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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Looking at the picture, is the pillow directly over the vent? The vent needs a little breathing space. If you can find somewhere else it fits I would go that route.

Stormbreaker | Wisconsin Home Theater Meet Thread | The Devastator Index
You can always turn it down, but you can only turn it up so much (before you run out of power, excursion or structural integrity).
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post #28 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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The PL really gums up the sandpaper. I used a jack knife and it made easy work of scrapping off the majority of the excess glue.

I used the disconnects on Stormbreaker. You will most likely end up having to get to different sizes. The 21DS115 had much larger connectors than the Speakon terminator.


I test fitted the connectors and it fit the 1- but the 1+ it won’t due to the plastic being in the way. So looks like I’ll just solder it to the connector.


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post #29 of 141 Old 08-24-2019, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking at the picture, is the pillow directly over the vent? The vent needs a little breathing space. If you can find somewhere else it fits I would go that route.


If you look at your design the pillow is sitting between the upper most window brace and the larger middle window brace. Next spot down would put to even with the port. I would say it’s got about 6” or so before the port. Also it’s only a queen lol doesn’t extend end to end.


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post #30 of 141 Old 08-25-2019, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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First sub is complete. Ran my first sweep and well I think I’m missing something...

Here is the response



Mic is about a foot and a half away from the ports.
Volume on receiver is -33 and level in REW is -12.



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