VBSS build. Port slot version. Guidance needed - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 35 Old 09-19-2019, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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VBSS build. Slot port version. Guidance needed

Hi,
I am going to build four VBSS for my home theater in my basement. PA460 drivers arrived last week. not opened the boxes yet. building them during this weekend. Nice warm weekend days ahead in Boston.

Plan to build the slot port version LTD02 explained in this thread.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...thread-27.html

Shopping for wood/mdf and other tools at homedepot tomorrow. I am hoping homedepot guys would cut mdf into 4 pieces, like in the diagram attached, and I think I can do the rest with my circular saw.
Could anyone verify if the measurements are correct for HomeDepot cut ?

I have plenty of questions in my mind before I do all this. I thought I would ask you guys for help.
  • Because I am building 4 of them and takes lot of time for gluing and clamping I decided to glue-clamp-screw strategy so that I don’t need to wait for the glue to set. Is 1-5/8 drywall screw ok ?
  • I already have two UM 18s that I built last year. My plan is to UM18s takes everything below 40Hz and VBSS take 40-120 and then Mains (HTM-12s) take 120 and above. LTD02 described two tuning options for this VBSS. I am wondering if I should build 31Hz or 20Hz version. If I build 20Hz do I sacrifice anything in upper range around 120 ? is there any advantage of building 31Hz over 20Hz in this setup? Making 20Hz does not add any expense.
  • I am going to use my newly bought circular saw for the first time. I am new to wood working and never used a circular saw before. I see that the blade it came with is not for fine cut, it is 24 t, should I buy blade for fine cut ? I think precision matters for sub cabinet building.

I will have more questions as I progress.. thanks in advance for all the help. Special thanks for Matt and LTD02.
Thanks
Manu
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post #2 of 35 Old 09-20-2019, 02:15 PM
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@Vazhipokkan I can help with a few building tips until more vbss owners chime in.

1. Home Depot and Lowes are hit and miss with cuts. You might have to do some putty work on a few edges that aren't perfect.

2. Do not hurry the drying process, subwoofers create a sh*t load of pressure and like water, they will find and make a hole where they can. Yes you can do screws, pre-drill a small hole in the mdf at least the length of the screw before you put a screw in or you will split the edges and have a mess on your hands.

2. build to 18hz or however low you can go, otherwise save yourself a lot of time and effort and go get 2 BIC pl200ii or a 2 sub1500's from PE. No, going to 20hz is accomplished by changing the port length, iirc.

3. get a fine cut blade or 2 for mdf. Build or buy a 4ft straight edge otherwise your edges will be off and then you right back to the mud/putty/glue repairs.

Good luck and post build pics
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post #3 of 35 Old 10-01-2019, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eriksells916 View Post
@Vazhipokkan I can help with a few building tips until more vbss owners chime in.

1. Home Depot and Lowes are hit and miss with cuts. You might have to do some putty work on a few edges that aren't perfect.

2. Do not hurry the drying process, subwoofers create a sh*t load of pressure and like water, they will find and make a hole where they can. Yes you can do screws, pre-drill a small hole in the mdf at least the length of the screw before you put a screw in or you will split the edges and have a mess on your hands.

2. build to 18hz or however low you can go, otherwise save yourself a lot of time and effort and go get 2 BIC pl200ii or a 2 sub1500's from PE. No, going to 20hz is accomplished by changing the port length, iirc.

3. get a fine cut blade or 2 for mdf. Build or buy a 4ft straight edge otherwise your edges will be off and then you right back to the mud/putty/glue repairs.

Good luck and post build pics
thank you @eriksells916

Homedepot cut the MDF sheets into three pieces.
straight edge helped a lot for cutting into smaller pieces.

thanks
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post #4 of 35 Old 10-01-2019, 07:47 PM
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I can personally vouch for the 31hz variant that LTD02 designed. I would recommend them. I'm also running 4 of them, along with a UM18 in a mini-marty. Very good combination.
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post #5 of 35 Old 10-02-2019, 08:36 AM
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I would go with the default 20Hz tuning. All 3 tunes model identical above 35Hz anyway.

Make sure you drill pilot holes with drywall screws.

Also, wear a mask. You will not believe how much dust MDF makes.

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post #6 of 35 Old 10-02-2019, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Update with pictures:

Almost finished first one. braces and damping material to be added.
I use titebond glue, then use PL 3X inside the corner, just to make sure that no air leak.
tnuts used for installing the driver. but PL used on the tnut. if I need to open this driver for some reason I cant do that

thanks
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post #7 of 35 Old 10-03-2019, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Couple more questions:
  • I am planning to run two VBSSs per channel using NX3000D. is this how connection should be made ? (Please see the attachment). Just wanted to make sure before I seal the first enclosure.
  • Is there a way to test subwoofer before I seal it. I wont be able to open once I sealed, thats how I constructed it. I did a 9V battery test and it works as expected. have not bought NX3000D yet which is going to drive these four VBSS, but I do have an old iNuke6000D that drives two Ultimaxes. Should I use that to test this before I close the enclosure ? I am a bit concerned 6000 is too much power for these if I accidently turn it up. Can I directly connect this to 6000D onto Channel A ?
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post #8 of 35 Old 10-03-2019, 06:23 AM
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You can test all 4 subs on one channel of the NX6000D but only if you run them series-parallel. That will give you about 400 watts per speaker.

Keep the volume down just in case you have a speaker not working right off the bat. You don't want to let the smoke out.



Edit: just realized you have a D amp, you could also run one speaker on a channel if you run the limiter.

Also, don't turn it up. Just use it to test the speaker is working. Wait to turn it up until your other amp comes in.

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post #9 of 35 Old 10-03-2019, 06:26 AM
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Also, to answer your other question: yes, what you have done there is run the speakers in parallel, presenting a 4 ohm load to the 3000D and about 450 watts to each speaker. Perfect.

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post #10 of 35 Old 10-03-2019, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
Also, to answer your other question: yes, what you have done there is run the speakers in parallel, presenting a 4 ohm load to the 3000D and about 450 watts to each speaker. Perfect.
thank you.
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post #11 of 35 Old 10-03-2019, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
Edit: just realized you have a D amp, you could also run one speaker on a channel if you run the limiter.

Also, don't turn it up. Just use it to test the speaker is working. Wait to turn it up until your other amp comes in.

What should be the value for the limiter if I run 1 VBSS per channel for testing on NU6000D ? is this the "Peak limiter" option ? (Please see screenshot)
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post #12 of 35 Old 10-03-2019, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vazhipokkan View Post
What should be the value for the limiter if I run 1 VBSS per channel for testing on NU6000D ? is this the "Peak limiter" option ? (Please see screenshot)
Switch your load to 8 ohms and it will show you the calculated wattage. Its peak wattage so you should be safe limiting it to 1000 watts. I'd prefer to set it at 500. Still, I would't crank it very loud, the attack on the limiter is supposed to be instant but I've not tested the theory. Start with the gain all the way down and bring it up very slowly.

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post #13 of 35 Old 10-11-2019, 11:40 AM
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Hey @Vazhipokkan have you made any progress on your build?

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post #14 of 35 Old 10-11-2019, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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not much progress last week. I have been busy. it is taking more time than I expected. working on the third one. (pic attached)
need to order NX3000DSP soon. I saw it for $299 last month. now price went up.

Thanks
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post #15 of 35 Old 10-18-2019, 09:22 AM
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Thanks for sharing your build @Vazhipokkan . Any issues with using screws? Looks like you flush mounted the sub? Did you use double or a thicker baffle for the front? Do you have any pictures of the bracing?

Slowly building/upgrading the HT
Projector, Marantz NR1607, Emotiva T1/C2, B652-AIR, SUB-1000
*coming soon* NX3000D, DIY: (2) 20hz VBSS
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post #16 of 35 Old 10-23-2019, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elusiveis View Post
Thanks for sharing your build @Vazhipokkan . Any issues with using screws? Looks like you flush mounted the sub? Did you use double or a thicker baffle for the front? Do you have any pictures of the bracing?

Update:
No issues with screws. pre-drilled and used drywall screws. quick and easy to build.
I did not do flush mounting. Dampened the cabinet using denim insulation. put two layers on top and bottom braces, used spray glue and staples. (pictures of the braces attached. ) Let me know if you see any issues with bracing or dampening. it is too late anyway
I have been busy and did not get lot of time to work on this. building the fouth sub now. NX3000D has arrived few days back. I test the subs as I build using NX3000D and my old Onkyo reciever. VBSS settings were loaded from the zip file Matt attached in the VBSS design thread. Everything seems to work fine. Subs are in random places in my garage and no EQ applied. so I cant comment on the quality of bass now. I play music with three subs, 4th one under construction.
This weekend I plan to paint all four with duratex (which came today from partsexpress) and then move them to my home theater. this will be joining two sealed UM18s which I already have. Exciting! will have a review at that time.
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post #17 of 35 Old 10-28-2019, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Subs are ready to paint.
I hope 1 gallon Duratex would be enough for all four subs.
not going to sand the box before painting. cant deal with the dust now.
anyway all subs will be going behind the screen in a "baffle wall", unless I find any serious frequency response problem in the room.
I have been running all four subs (2 per channel) all day long today. used some low frequency music playlist found on youtube to break in the driver. it is shaking the entire house.
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post #18 of 35 Old 11-18-2019, 12:35 PM
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Looking good! I'm in the planning stages of building a pair myself.

I'm coming from having only ever build 1 diy sub, a mini marty um18, and was wondering are binding posts the go-to method fo these vbss? I figured we would be using neutrik connectors here like the marty's...?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidinGA View Post
Looking good! I'm in the planning stages of building a pair myself.



I'm coming from having only ever build 1 diy sub, a mini marty um18, and was wondering are binding posts the go-to method fo these vbss? I figured we would be using neutrik connectors here like the marty's...?


Binding posts are personal preference for pretty much any design. Neutriks will work great. I like the PE small round terminal cups.
Chris
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post #20 of 35 Old 11-18-2019, 01:48 PM
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Neutrik is nice because you can't accidentally short the wires. Its also the quickest and easiest to connect/disconnect.

I used double binding posts on my first set so I could easily bridge them, or if I ever went to a DVC in the same enclosure in the future, I'd have flexibility.

One bad think about Neutrik is the connector will usually stick out a good 2-3 inches. But, at the end of the day, I think I prefer the Neutrik connectors.
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post #21 of 35 Old 11-18-2019, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
Neutrik is nice because you can't accidentally short the wires. Its also the quickest and easiest to connect/disconnect.



I used double binding posts on my first set so I could easily bridge them, or if I ever went to a DVC in the same enclosure in the future, I'd have flexibility.



One bad think about Neutrik is the connector will usually stick out a good 2-3 inches. But, at the end of the day, I think I prefer the Neutrik connectors.

Terminal cups with banana plugs are just as fast. Can definitely be shorted or reversed if you’re not paying attention though.

I have to leave the outer barrels off my banana plugs to do it, but they can be pushed so speaker wire is sandwiched flat between box and wall.

Again, its all personal preference, both work equally well.

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post #22 of 35 Old 11-18-2019, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
Neutrik is nice because you can't accidentally short the wires. Its also the quickest and easiest to connect/disconnect.

I used double binding posts on my first set so I could easily bridge them, or if I ever went to a DVC in the same enclosure in the future, I'd have flexibility.

One bad think about Neutrik is the connector will usually stick out a good 2-3 inches. But, at the end of the day, I think I prefer the Neutrik connectors.
That's exactly why I don't like my neutrik - sticks out another 3 inches ugh

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post #23 of 35 Old 11-18-2019, 03:03 PM
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That's exactly why I don't like my neutrik - sticks out another 3 inches ugh
Countersink the Neutrik connector on the box and use these: https://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-Right.../dp/B00079P6N0

The back of my sub boxes stand off the wall at just about 1.25" with that method.
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Countersink the Neutrik connector on the box and use these: https://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-Right.../dp/B00079P6N0



The back of my sub boxes stand off the wall at just about 1.25" with that method.
Ya, I've seen those I need to get one...

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post #25 of 35 Old 11-19-2019, 12:54 PM
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Still probably sticks out a good inch. I guess that's no more than banana plugs though.

One nice thing about recessed terminals, if you don't use banana plugs, there's only the clearance for the wire. But then again, if you need clearance that small you probably ought to mount the terminals on a different face of the box.

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post #26 of 35 Old 11-19-2019, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
Still probably sticks out a good inch. I guess that's no more than banana plugs though.



One nice thing about recessed terminals, if you don't use banana plugs, there's only the clearance for the wire. But then again, if you need clearance that small you probably ought to mount the terminals on a different face of the box.


Again, I was able to get mine completely flush by not using the barrels on the banana plugs. Not the best solution, but I mess with stuff enough that I prefer not to just use the screw terminals and bare wire.

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post #27 of 35 Old 11-20-2019, 11:36 PM
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A tool for every job...

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post #28 of 35 Old 11-21-2019, 09:45 AM
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VBSS build. Port slot version. Guidance needed

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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
A tool for every job...



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The 90* bananas actually make it worse with most angled terminal cups.

A 45* version might work.

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post #29 of 35 Old 11-22-2019, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
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The 90* bananas actually make it worse with most angled terminal cups.

A 45* version might work.

Chris
In that case, bare wire connection is the obvious solution.
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post #30 of 35 Old 11-22-2019, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
In that case, bare wire connection is the obvious solution.
That's what I think I'll do this go-round, not to happy with my giant speakon connectors I've used before...

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