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698K views 6K replies 208 participants last post by  Red Five 
#1 · (Edited)
The number of Devastator versions and the number of documented Devastator builds is multiplying, it would be nice if some of this information were kept more neatly in one place. This thread is a work in progress. I will add new variants to this thread and also builds and link them below. :cool:

As always, in the pursuit of performance from the use of wood! Wood is still cheaper than amps and sub woofers.... Let's not forget the other part of the Devastator formula, simplicity! (remember we are dealing with a band pass here, they are more complicated). No diagonals, all panels are on right angles to simplify the building process.

Note: there are also some guides linked below in this post. If you have questions about how to assemble a Devastator, there is a lot of good information in the builds, do this and do not this. That is on top of the build guide. Basic assembly works its way from the top and front panels, towards the back and downwards. Top hatches, rear panel vents, high compression fronts and Stepped fronts have all be added as the Devastator has evolved. Items are listed for the most part in Chronological order. Several members have put a lot of time in documenting the build process. Please check out their build threads!

Want to design a Devastator all on your own? The Hornresp tutorial is posted below. If you have design questions feel free to post them in that thread! There are tools for helping design cabinets in Google Sheets posted in that thread too.

With the addition of the Stepped front Devastators, responses can be mostly flat natively. Knowing your room and what can fit in a space are going to be key factors for selection vs trying to leverage the response shape in spot the suites the box well.

Suggestions for box selection: Devastators have seen evolutionary progress as time has gone on. The biggest factor for selecting a Devastator is the space available. That is one of the main driving factors for the wide array of designs beyond achieving more performance from the use of building material. Room size is another big factor. (I grabbed this from Audioholics)

Room
Dimensional Volume
Small Room​
< 1,500 ft^3​
Medium Room​
1,500 ft^3 to 3,000 ft^3​
Large Room​
3,000 ft^3 to 5,000 ft^3​
Extreme Room​
> 5,000 ft^3​

Small room, you can probably get away with a couple Micro 15" Stepped V1s. Medium room, you will need a couple 18"s at least. Large room - 21"s. Extreme, how many Fat Boy V5s can your marriage take? Other factors, is the room open to other areas and is it an odd shape? That can mess with the equation especially if sub placement options are limited.

Why bass physics suck:

Below is the Fat Boy Version 5 with the native 22Hz tune in gray and I tweaked the vent area down so it is now tuned to 18Hz. As you can see from the graph output takes a huge 5db hit from the lower tuning. In room that 22Hz box will probably stick with all the other Index Devastators down to 17Hz or 18Hz. That is a bit room dependent, so your mileage may vary. Also, remember 6db is the equivalent of doubling your sub system, amps, boxes and sub woofers, 3db from cone area and box displacement and 3db from the input power doubling.

Rectangle Slope Font Plot Parallel



Now I am going to push this further down to 15Hz tuning on the rear chamber. As you can see we are down a solid 10db on the left corner from the original 22Hz tuning and another 5db from the 18Hz tuning.

Rectangle Slope Font Plot Parallel


The important thing to know? Each octave (dividing a given frequency by 2) you descend in frequency will require 4 times the displacement to achieve a given level of output. Let's say when tuned 20Hz a box can hit 88db on 1 watt of power with 1mm of excursion. If we tune the box to 10Hz it would take 4mm of excursion from the woofer to hit 88db. This is an important fact when selecting a Devastator. There are three factors that will come into play. Output, Extension and Cost, those factors will always have to be balanced. You can chose 2, but you cannot get all 3 unless you are in a very small space that gains very well. A 7000 cubic foot room on a concrete slab is not a good place to chase extension. It would be better to go with higher tuned cabinets and gain the wobble effect from a BOSS platform. Unless you have the luxury of unlimited budget.

High Pass Filter Orders:

Real quick rundown, 6db of slope is an order. For example a 2nd order Butterworth filter will knock the response down 12db per octave. If set to 20Hz the response will be down 12db at 10Hz, assuming it is applied to a flat line. 2nd order filters can make integration easier in certain circumstances. Especially if the cabinet tunes have a wider range than just a few Hertz. Integration with sealed cabinets can be more tiresome and require a lot of trial and error. An 8th order 48db per octave slope on the sealed cabinet and then using a 2nd order HPF a few Hertz over tune on the Devastator can be a good starting point. Once again YMMV. If you do plan on using a 2nd order filter, go a little over tune with the filter to control driver excursion below tune.

Order: (typically you will not see a Dev go over a 4th order, just keep multiplying by 6 to go up)
1st 6db per octave
2nd 12 db per octave
3rd 18db per octave
4th 24db per octave

Why do we need High Pass Filters on a Devastator?

Below the tuning frequency of the Low Frequency(LF) resonator cone excursion goes out of control(see example below). The cone is no longer seeing a load like it would above the tuning frequency of the LF resonator. The cone movement would be similar to the sub being given power in free air. A pro driver can take several hundred watts in most cases in free air when sent a low frequency waveform. Doing that to a woofer frequently could A. damage the woofer over time and B. if sent a more powerful signal could bottom the woofer out immediately. The High Frequency (HF) resonator does present some load to the woofer below the LF tuning frequency, but it is not enough to control the cone movement. DO NOT RUN your Devastator without a protective high pass filter.

Rectangle Slope Plot Line Font


As you see in the graph above, the cone motion with the 2000 watt input on this NSW6021-6 has the driver well outside of the 21mm xmax below 20Hz. Once a Butterworth 18Hz 4th order high pass filter is actived the cone is peaking around 19mm below 20Hz(light gray line) and that is inside the NSW6021-6's rated xmax.

Slang/Terms:

HCR - High Compression Ratio. This front has a bell curve, but is not quite as peaky as a lower compression front and uses less space. Good for shallow cabinets.
TR - Tactile Response
Stepped - A front quarter wave resonator with 2 or 2+ cross sectional areas. The response is typically more flat and they gain more low end output.
BR - Bass Reflex
QW - Quarter Wave resonator. These are typically referred to as horns. On a Devastator they do the high frequency lifting.
FPR - First Port Resonance
BB - Baltic Birch plywood. (not the veneer box store stuff, call a lumberyard)
BBv1 - Big Boy Version 1
MLP - Main listening position.
REW - Room EQ Wizard.
HPF - High Pass Filter.
BW - Butterworth.
LF - Low Frequency
HF - High Frequency
HO/SHO - High Output or Stepped High Output. Usually these cabinets have 22Hz tuning.
BMD - Beast Mode Devastator. Typically they are closer to 60" height vs 48"
FV - Finalizer. This cabinet started as a 48"x25.5"x34" cabinet with lower tuning. FV can be used for the 16Hz tuned rear chamber or the form factor
Dev - Devastator. Generally cabinets that are around 48" in height.
Mini - Typically this cabinet type is around 40" in height.
Micro - Usually in the above or around 30" in height.
Nano - Usually used for 12" cabinets.
FB - Fat Boy. Typically as deep as they are wide.
BAMF - Bass Ascension Module Five. Home music or PA cabinet with higher tuning and a Stepped QW resonator.
NSW - Eminence NSW6021-6
SAN - Lavoce SAN214.50 or the SAN215.30 is another good choice, but not usually that is referring to the 214.50.
DS - That could be a B&C 21DS115 or a 18DS100-4, both are great choices.
TBW - B&C 18TBW100 is usually the reference, but the 15TBW100 is another good woofer.
SAF - Lavoce SAF184.03
WAF - Should be the Lavoce WAF154.00
D21V6 - This would be an example the Devastator 21" version 6
M18V6 - This would be an example of the Mini Devastator 21" version 6
FB21V5 or FBv5 - Fat Boy Version 5
FV1 - Finalizer Version 1

Devastator response evolution:

The Devastator has seen developments over time. The examples below are on 48" tall cabinets to show the three main fronts and how they affect the response.

The Devastator 21" Version 1 is the first Devastator designed by John. As you can see the front HF QW resonator adds SPL across the entire frequency range, peaking in the mid bass region. Light gray is ported cabinet with the same vent length, vent area and chamber volume as the D21V1.

Rectangle Slope Font Plot Parallel


Next up we have the Devastator 21" Version 5 with an HCR front. The HCR front has a smaller cross section area vs the lower compression front, but still adds output across the range and takes up less space in the cabinet. Once again dark gray is the V5 and light is just a basic BR chamber with the same specs.

Rectangle Slope Plot Line Font


Finally we have the Fat Boy Version 5 with its Stepped QW resonator that has multiple cross sectional areas. The higher tuning coupled with the design of the QW resonator makes the cabinet very flat and efficient. The higher tuning also allows the resonators to be spaced 1 octave apart in frequency without cutting our top end short, so this design can still crossover at 80Hz into a sound system.

Rectangle Slope Font Plot Line


Other advantages to having the front QW resonator:

Cone protection from curious children, pets and sometimes friends that are tipsy. Less rear chabmer/motor noise, the panels dampen noise that would otherwise find its way through the cone and into the room. Obviously the QW resonator eats up more space vs having nothing in front of the woofer, but the QW resonator has a few things going for it.

Construction/material/tips:

The preferred building material is currently expensive. Baltic Birch plywood (not the veneer stuff at box store, call a local lumber yard) is the preferred building material. 18mm is close enough to 3/4" not to mess up the building process. MDF is heavy and makes a big dust mess and does not take screws well, tends to crack. ACX plywood is lightweight, but has voids and a tendency to warp. BB is lighter than MDF and does not make the dust mess and is less prone to warping and also voids. MDF also sucks for using Kregs.

If you have router with a flush trim bit, it is not a bad idea to add 1/8" inch on the side panels and then clean it up after assembly.

PL3X is the glue of choice due to how forgiving it is with voids and set time. When using PL, wear gloves, you do not want that stuff getting on your skin and it will mess up clothing. If you are a fluent wood worker, you do not have to say no to tight bond.

Marking panels before assembly is another pro tip. I would also suggest marking up the woofer cutout and drilling all the holes for fastening the woofer before assembly. Marking the panel alignments/positions on the side panel, front panel and baffle are all good ideas. Measure twice, cut once is another good rule to live by.

Air leaks around the access panel are usually the number one issue once the box is together. Especially if the measured response looks weak on the left corner. If you want to make sure you have a good seal, turn off the lights, put a flashlight in the rear chamber. Button the hatch up and look for light coming through the hatch seal. Weather stripping or the PE gasket tape will work.

If you have a question or are unsure of something when putting the cabinet together, feel free to post the question in the Index. This thread has large following that is happy to offer tips!

Bracing - here is a good example of a common bracing mistake. The wider dimension should be adjacent to the outside panel, like in the photo below.

Driver mounting - Chris made this write up for his technique for securing the sub to the baffle - link



Threaded Inserts (Sub woofer mounting solution)

Panel Names?


Below is a reference image
Rectangle Parallel Font Plan Diagram


Rear Chamber Resonance/dampening material

Chris when testing the JBL Quad Devastator did some measurements with different pillow configurations in the rear chamber. We also reached out to a few members for measurements they took. It would appear standing waves in the rear chamber start to encroach on the passband somewhere between 40" and 48" of rear chamber length. Boxes close to 48" on up need pillows tacked onto the side panels to alleviate near past band resonance. The goal is having a clear path from the back of the woofer to the vent inlet. Air restriction will hurt low end output. However, if there is minimal restriction in air movement, a minimal loss in low end output will take place. Here are the links to the Quad testing.

Resonance Testing Pt1
Resonance Testing Pt2

Does my UM18/IB/high Qts Sub work in a Devastator?

The short answer is no, it does not work in a Devastator. This is a UM18 in a Mini Devastator 18 Version 6.



As you can see the woofer gets a very sharp peak at the resonant point of the front horn of the cabinet. You might be thinking why not just EQ that peak? Here is the problem, the UM18 will ring when loaded in a Devastator, the cone stays in motion after a impulse. This is the UM18 vs the 18TBW100, pink is the UM18, green is the TBW. Notice how the cone on the TBW stops moving relatively quickly. Some subs are designed to work well in higher order band pass boxes, others are designed to work in lower order band pass boxes. There is a simple method for finding a good woofer using a specific metric. Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP), the woofers Fs value divided by its Qes value. The Devastator starts working once a value gets around 70 or so. Values closer to 100 are better, but not absolutely necessary. If you have a woofer with a value higher than 70 and are curios to see how it looks, just post a message in the thread :)



Any Devastators optimized for music?

Yes, the BAMFs are designed to handle music duty/PA use. There are currently three different versions available with different tuning depending on the needs of your system. If interested I have a smaller design meant for an 18" that will definitely make some loud noise that has not been released yet.

I bought a Crown amp that has a network card, how do I manage it???
Chris made a nice write up concerning this situation, you can find it right here. You will need the Harmon Audio Architect software installed on computer that is on the same network as the USP card.

Reference Port Plug Design - link

Performance data (HR Estimations GP1m):
The Big Boy Family 21"s
The Fat Boy Family 21"s
The Finalizer Family 21"s
The Alpha Family 21"s
The BAMF Family 18"s + 21"s
The BMD Family 21"s
The Mini Devastator Family 21"s
The Devastator Family 21"s
The Mini Devastator Family 18"s
The Devastator Family 18"s
The BMD Family 18"s
The Micro Devastator Family 18"s

Shallow + Narrow 21" + 18" Devastators

Common 21 Comparison Graphic (shoutout to Chris for his help with this)
Rectangle Slope Plot Font Line


Common 18" Comparison Graphic
Rectangle Slope Plot Line Font


Current (9-1-22) top picks!
Colorfulness Slope Purple Rectangle Font

Note: The Alpha III and IV have narrow clones. The FBv6 has a narrower clone and the 18BMDSV2 has a clone.

PLEASE SHARE BUILDS IN THIS THREAD!!! (including pictures)

Designs (Guide is near the bottom of this post and see build links, a lot of go information in there.)

Broken down by woofer size:

24"
21"
18"
15"
12"
Build threads/other
Guides
 

Attachments

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18
#3,660 ·
Thanks for answering my previous questions folks. I've got my 2 NSW 6021 drivers on order and I have purchased the minidsp, NX6000 amp and will probably add another amp at some point. I am planning on building 2 FB3 Devs as was previously suggested. Probably a dumb question, but is there a walkthrough that's similar enough to the FB3 to get me through the build? I'm an admitted novice at this and will take help anywhere I can get it lol. Also, outside of the wood, is there a list of other necessary materials? Pocket hole screws, speakon connector, speaker wire, duratex, pillows I've seen mentioned? Are there any glaring omissions? Thanks!
 
#3,661 ·
Thanks for answering my previous questions folks. . .
.
.
Also, outside of the wood, is there a list of other necessary materials? Pocket hole screws, speakon connector, speaker wire, duratex, pillows I've seen mentioned? Are there any glaring omissions? Thanks!
Clamps, glue and a brad nailer are also handy. Regular flat head screws can be used in several places such as securing the access hatch in place, although I prefer FastCap powerhead wood screws in a black oxide finish for that role.

Mike
 
#3,662 ·
I know in my Stormbreaker build I had a big list of stuff needed. Not sure on my Mini Dev build. I would suggest the FBv5 over the 3. I won't have HR handy for a few days for the comparison. The process stays pretty similar for most of the cabinets, the Stepped have a few more pieces before you reach the back of the cabinet. Browse builds in the OP, it's condensed in one place so there is not a lot of searching required.
 
#3,664 ·
I ran across this little jewel the other day CSS SDX12 - 12&quot; XBL^2 Subwoofer (css-audio.com) and I was curious if it would work in a dev cabinet. Parts Express has them for $375. If you were tight on space, this appears to be a studly little driver. In a Nano cabinet, it would be pretty awesome in that form factor. I`m not short on room, I just thought it looked really good. Thanks for all of the work and continually pushing what is possible for the DIY crowd.
 
#3,669 ·
Sounds like a good fit to me. Realizing the these amps are two amps in one, I would put one devastator on the first channel, and one on the last channel, that way the two internal power supplies are evenly loaded. I would probably wire the JBL's up to be an 8 ohm load to the amp. That would be four sets of four woofers in series, that are then connected with two strings to each channel, that is my opinion and I reserve the right to revise it as I think more about it.
 
#3,673 ·
Quick question

In the minidsp 2x4hd
PEQ - I have the filter " peak "
Is this the correct setting

The compressor output - leave it on by pass
I would leave a compressor off.

You should be good with the current stepped cabinet. I cannot get any more low end out of the 18 HO without pushing the cabinet height out of the needed form factor.
 
#3,675 ·
Also there is a batch of Crown CTS 2000s on ebay with USP4 cards... great power for not an insane amount of money!
 
#3,679 ·
I should have some better comparisons later this week (just final touchups, trim and paint to go on BMD #2). At present, my V5s are in positions 1 and 3 and have NSWs in them each powered by CTS3000s. The HO is loaded with a SAN in position 2 powered by an XLS2002. Before I shift drivers around to accommodate the 2nd BMD HO, here is the plan:
  1. Disconnect my mains
  2. Play a 56Hz test tone and use the RTA feature of REW with my Umik to ensure the gains for each sub are within .1 or .2dB of each other.
  3. Take measurements with both V5s enabled at all 7 seats (both on the same channel of my MiniDSP with a 19Hz 2O HPF)
  4. Take measurements with only the HO enabled at all 7 seats (20Hz 2O HPF).
  5. Take measurements with all 3 subs enabled at all 7 seats.
Next, I'll move my left V5 to position 2. Then both HOs will get NSWs and placed in positions 1 and 3. I'll try to align them as close as I can to where the V5s were (not much wiggle room there anyway). Then I'll change the HPFs so that the HOs are set for 20Hz (with the CTS3000s) and the V5 is set to 19Hz (with the XLS2002).
  1. Mains still disconnected
  2. Play a 56Hz test tone and using the RTA feature of REW with my Umik to verify the gains are still within .1 or .2dB of each other. If not adjust?
  3. Take measurements with both HOs enabled at all 7 seats (both on the same channel of my MiniDSP with a 20Hz 2O HPF)
  4. Take measurements with only the V5 enabled at all 7 seats (19Hz 2O HPF).
  5. Take measurements for all 3 subs enabled at all 7 seats.
NOTE: In all cases above, I'll set the volume the same when gain matching and then the same when I take measurements for each set.

While this data is specific to my room, I would think this should be good data to give someone an idea of at least what is possible. @Red Five, does my test plan look legit?
Door Fixture Gas Electric blue Flooring
 
#3,681 ·
I should have some better comparisons later this week (just final touchups, trim and paint to go on BMD #2). At present, my V5s are in positions 1 and 3 and have NSWs in them each powered by CTS3000s. The HO is loaded with a SAN in position 2 powered by an XLS2002. Before I shift drivers around to accommodate the 2nd BMD HO, here is the plan:
  1. Disconnect my mains
  2. Play a 56Hz test tone and use the RTA feature of REW with my Umik to ensure the gains for each sub are within .1 or .2dB of each other.
  3. Take measurements with both V5s enabled at all 7 seats (both on the same channel of my MiniDSP with a 19Hz 2O HPF)
  4. Take measurements with only the HO enabled at all 7 seats (20Hz 2O HPF).
  5. Take measurements with all 3 subs enabled at all 7 seats.
Next, I'll move my left V5 to position 2. Then both HOs will get NSWs and placed in positions 1 and 3. I'll try to align them as close as I can to where the V5s were (not much wiggle room there anyway). Then I'll change the HPFs so that the HOs are set for 20Hz (with the CTS3000s) and the V5 is set to 19Hz (with the XLS2002).
  1. Mains still disconnected
  2. Play a 56Hz test tone and using the RTA feature of REW with my Umik to verify the gains are still within .1 or .2dB of each other. If not adjust?
  3. Take measurements with both HOs enabled at all 7 seats (both on the same channel of my MiniDSP with a 20Hz 2O HPF)
  4. Take measurements with only the V5 enabled at all 7 seats (19Hz 2O HPF).
  5. Take measurements for all 3 subs enabled at all 7 seats.
NOTE: In all cases above, I'll set the volume the same when gain matching and then the same when I take measurements for each set.

While this data is specific to my room, I would think this should be good data to give someone an idea of at least what is possible. @Red Five, does my test plan look legit?
View attachment 3221629
It is hard to get good measurements indoors, for comparisons sake if the measurements are low level you can probably get rid of the HPFs. That way you are just dealing with native response of each cabinet type. Getting the same positions and woofers for each sub should be as good as we get with indoor measurements. If you are using the same woofer type when measuring each cabinet you should be able to use the same volume level. The volume level should be sending the same voltage and if using the same woofer Re should be the same. Not a perfect solution, but outdoor GP is not exactly easy.

Still hoping Chris finds a home for his Alpha I and builds a windowed Alpha III...
 
#3,680 ·
You guys keep talking about the crown cts line. By chance I happened on a CTs2000 for $150 a couple weeks ago at a surplus sale. I wasn't exactly sure on the specs but I thought I'd read about them here and couldn't pass on a thousand watts per channel for 150 bucks. If it works. It was an as-is situation but there usually isn't just junk at this sale. I want/need to test it but it has a weird 3 pin connector for the input. I think of them as Phoenix but I think I found a version here: Digikey
Does that seem correct to the people that use these?
 
#3,682 ·
The nice thing with the install amps are how little impedance matters. That connector should work. I bought a back of them on Amazon cheap. If I remember correctly, the pegs do not line up perfectly or there is a peg only on one side, but that is pretty easy to fix... I just took an XLR cable and cut it up.
 
#3,685 ·
Rectangle Slope Font Screenshot Parallel


If anyone is worried about their HOs, that is an attempt more output with a flat response. As you can see the box size is around 36 cubic feet and for not a whole ton of gain.
 
#3,687 ·
I would love to see all of the various Devastators tested by Data-Bass. If Josh wants to come out of retirement, I will chip in some $. Having hard numbers would be awesome to compare against the tested subs.
 
#3,691 ·
I doubt I'll have what's needed but what does it take to do ground plain testing? I do have a umik-1. Is it just measuring outside so there's no reflections?
 
#3,692 ·

Read Ricci's posts.
 
#3,693 ·
Also I am contemplating an insanity level cabinet.

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel


The QW resonator gains just a bit over a standard BR cabinet.
Rectangle Slope Font Plot Parallel
 
#3,696 ·
I got some math checks done and a mock up, this thing is a beast! NSW chugging along on 1000 watts with a 15Hz 4th order HPF active. The width is 27 since I do not like depth if I can help it and going beyond 27 can be an issue for getting large cabinets through doorways.


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This is a comparison to the FBv3. The thought behind this beast was taking the FBv3 to the extreme. It is still smaller than a sub max V3...

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Notes: the FBv3 is 24.44 cubic feet and this thing is 34.88 cubic feet in displacement. There are gains to be had for the extra 10.4 cubic feet. 3db is doubling output, but the low end output eats up displacement really fast.
 
#3,700 ·
I should take some votes for naming this beast.

So far: BMD - Apex, Omicron, Delta, Bravo, Prime and Oscar are all ideas.
 
#3,704 ·
Not sure what I'd vote for on the name, but with the NSW half the price of a 24, it'd be interesting to see a comparison of it modeled in an ideal box against this new design. I would guess the SI wouldn't come close to a pair of these until low teens.

I'm still impressed to see my old HO providing more output ~20Hz-50Hz versus a pair of V5s.
 
#3,710 ·
The HS24 does not work with a Stepped front. The SHS is a different story, that works great. Sadly it is no longer in production.
 
#3,709 ·
So I've got 30" under the screen, 127" between the posts, and it's 39" to the front of the screen. Tip two on their sides and... Violá! ;)
Building Lighting Wood Door Interior design


Still planning on the FBv5's but this is intriguing.
 
#3,711 ·
I might be able to eek more out with a wider box. But doorways could become an issue. That's why I did not go straight to 30". 30" would allow for more CSA on the HF resonator, which should add output above the LF tune, which then let's me use a larger LF resonator without getting a narrow peak in the response/droop just above the left corner.
 
#3,712 ·
The 30" cabinet is very not worth it, just keep throwing displacement at it and get less than a db in return, I think this cabinet close enough. Anyways onto power handling. Looks like 2500 watts pushes past 2/3rd gap, so it will be royally pissed at that point.

Big Boy Version 1 2000 watts (30+ cubic feet is getting this title)

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Alpha III 2000 watts

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Power handling potential is definitely lost with the lower tuning. Then there is the velocity increase as well with the lower tuning.

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Once again, no free lunches here. Considering the output, I doubt these things would be seeing maximum capability often. Especially when there are groups of cabinets.
 
#3,714 ·
It looks like the Big Boy V1 is more comparable to an an Alpha I that just keeps going.

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Plot
 
#3,722 ·
Interesting. What is the output with each box at their respective max power handling? Does the 19Hz tune add much?
 
#3,723 ·
Is it just me or would the deep driver placement on the BBv1 be a royal PITA to reach? I've only built the Mini 21v5 and it was difficult enough to mount the driver close to the access panel.

Although I really like my Mini, @xb1032 's recent HO builds have me reeeeeallly interested in a pair of Alpha IIIs. :-D
 
#3,725 ·
It is going to get tight. I might have to give up the 3" braces on the sides. Not a huge fan of giving up that much strength in the side panels, but it might have to be done! Make sure you have all the things marked, drilled and notched before it goes together..... lol
 
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