two slot ported boxes tuned at 18 and 22 hz, using Dayton Audio UM15-22 drivers - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 22 Old 10-10-2019, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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two slot ported boxes tuned at 18 and 22 hz, using Dayton Audio UM15-22 drivers

Here's another build I'm working on right now. These are for @Eric88h he's using the Dayton Audio UM15-22 drivers for this and wanted two boxes that would fit in 2 spots in his Theater Room. First box is getting placed in the front right side of his room and the second will be nearfield. I'll let Eric explain what equipment he has in his room and what amp he has to power these. Here we go
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Last edited by eng-399; 10-13-2019 at 12:32 AM.
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post #2 of 22 Old 10-10-2019, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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two slot ported boxes tuned at 18 and 22 hz, using Dayton Audio UM15-22 drivers

Dry fitting and gluing the first box. This is the order I put boxes together.
First thing is taking the front two baffles and drilling a pilot hole for the jasper jig

Glue these together
Now lay the bottom panel down and glue the port rails onto the bottom panel.

Next is glue the left side and back panel to the bottom panel. If you look at the top of the side panel it’s 3/4 inch taller than the back panel this is done on purpose.
Now lay the box down on the back panel and glue the vertical port rails down and the left side panel pulse window bracing if you choose to go that route.

Next is the front double baffle

That picture was taken when I dry fitted the box but you get the idea.
Now that the front is glued on install the top panel to the box. Again this picture was a dry fitting picture.
This is the order all my box designs are put together when people ask for help.

Now for sanding and finishing the box.

Last edited by eng-399; 10-11-2019 at 02:57 AM.
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post #3 of 22 Old 10-10-2019, 05:09 PM
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Another sub makes some dust.....


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post #4 of 22 Old 10-10-2019, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Another sub makes some dust.....


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This is for Eric that’s getting in the diy scene I’m really excited for him. The endless rabbit hole starts with this build.
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post #5 of 22 Old 10-11-2019, 11:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I’ll post more pictures tomorrow but everything is glued together and the final sanding and round overs on both boxes I hope to be complete tomorrow. Paint on Sunday
The dark spot on the front baffle is water from a rag when I wiped off the glue dripping down.
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post #6 of 22 Old 10-12-2019, 10:47 AM
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Looking good Mike! I wondered when you would post this one.

two slot ported boxes tuned at 18 and 22 hz

2 different tunes?
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post #7 of 22 Old 10-12-2019, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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post #8 of 22 Old 10-12-2019, 08:46 PM - Thread Starter
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two slot ported boxes tuned at 18 and 22 hz, using Dayton Audio UM15-22 drivers

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post
Looking good Mike! I wondered when you would post this one.



two slot ported boxes tuned at 18 and 22 hz



2 different tunes?


Yep to different tunes because of the space that Eric has. The box that’s tuned at 22hz is going Nearfield and hopefully will have a nice punch/chest slam since it’s right behind him and the box that’s up front is tuned at18hz.
I wish I could of had them at the same tune but the Nearfield box is smaller and with a lower tune the port length increased alot which took up valuable room Inside the box. I’ll post the cut sheet but I think the internal cubic ft is like 7 cubic ft.
Eric also made it a point he wanted zero chuffing coming from the box so I decided a box tuned at 22hz would be the next best option for a smaller space behind his seats.
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post #9 of 22 Old 10-14-2019, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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post #10 of 22 Old 10-15-2019, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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two slot ported boxes tuned at 18 and 22 hz, using Dayton Audio UM15-22 drivers

Mike I love watching your builds. What kinda sander do you use. I have a crappy palm sander and it works, but takes forever and some places the mdf turns weird on me like I’m opening up the grain or something. I know mdf doesn’t have grain. Just struggling to explain it. Your sanded cabs always look perfect.
Oh, and you killed the design on my nearfield cabs. I never hear chuffing and always have a smile on my face.
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post #12 of 22 Old 10-15-2019, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jk7.2 View Post
What kinda sander do you use. I have a crappy palm sander and it works, but takes forever and some places the mdf turns weird on me like I’m opening up the grain or something. I know mdf doesn’t have grain. Just struggling to explain it. Your sanded cabs always look perfect.

Agreed, I would be interested in the sanding process you use, Mike.



From the looks of the sanding discs in a previous post, he's using a random orbital disc sander with velcro sanding discs. I think that allows for circular motions when sanding that won't sand "against the grain" on the MDF.
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post #13 of 22 Old 10-15-2019, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Jarrod and Craig! All I do is spend a lot of time sanding starting with 50 grit then ,120, then 220. The only trick I use is I sand like a mad man with the 220 to try and get the lines between the joining mdf hide as good as I can. Sometimes they still show even though you sand them down like crazy. I use three coats of primer before duratex trying to see if I can cover something up. Here’s my sander



One big thing when finishing these boxes you know the corners where you put a round over on primer those edges very heavy each coat and sand them down that’s how the edges don’t look rough when that step is skipped. If you do that it’s smooth like the flat surface on the box.
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Are you sanding between coats of primer?
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post #15 of 22 Old 10-15-2019, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Are you sanding between coats of primer?


A light sand with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth the box out but mainly making sure I sand all the round overs so there smooth and the paint takes it when I spray duratex. I found when I don’t do that the mdf leaves weird look like it isn’t finished. I spray the edges all over very heavy with primer.
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post #16 of 22 Old 10-17-2019, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Excellent build and craftsmanship! Wish you were closer... lol.
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post #18 of 22 Old 10-18-2019, 05:03 PM
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Those look great!

Did you seal the mdf edges or use any spackle/bondo before priming? What primer did you use? Also, do you sand the roundovers by hand or use the orbital?
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post #19 of 22 Old 10-19-2019, 12:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Those look great!

Did you seal the mdf edges or use any spackle/bondo before priming? What primer did you use? Also, do you sand the roundovers by hand or use the orbital?


Thanks,
I don’t use any thing on the corners that have a round over on them. All I do is spray the corners with gray tinted primer kind of heavy and sand with 220 grit sandpaper once it dries. I do that three times so three coats of primer and then spray another three coats of duratex on them.
Once I get back home I’ll post the primer I use I forget that brand from menards that I bought.
I use a 3/4 “ round over bit with my router.
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post #21 of 22 Old 10-19-2019, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
I use a 3/4 “ round over bit with my router.

Sorry, I meant do you hand sand the primer off the roundovers? I was worried the orbital would be too aggressive for that. Or just a fast pass and light touch?
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post #22 of 22 Old 10-19-2019, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Sorry, I meant do you hand sand the primer off the roundovers? I was worried the orbital would be too aggressive for that. Or just a fast pass and light touch?


Yep I hand sand the corners down with 220 grit sandpaper on my hand. The orbital sander would be to rough on the edges. The rest of the box I use the orbital with 220 during each coat of primer flat parts only no corners with that. It make for a nice smooth finish.

Also not sure if anyone has run into this besides me but the roller grade duratex looks a little more shinny like a satin finish after rolling it compared to the spray grade which is more of a flat type of paint. The roller grade is easier to wipe down and can take more abuse if something knocks into it.
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