Looking to best the PB16- Ultra. - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 21Likes
  • 9 Post By johnson636
  • 4 Post By SuperFist
  • 1 Post By Russdawg1
  • 1 Post By SpinMonster
  • 2 Post By BassThatHz
  • 1 Post By cellarnoise
  • 1 Post By Kothoga
  • 1 Post By SpinMonster
  • 1 Post By ratm
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 22 Old 10-17-2019, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Looking to best the PB16- Ultra.

If I were to want to match, or better the BP-16 Ultra in fidelity, and hit as low, if not lower, what would I be recommended to buy?
Andrew Robertson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 22 Old 10-17-2019, 07:45 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 3,105
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1815 Post(s)
Liked: 1400
Rythmik F18 or FV18.

DIY utilizing 18” or 21” Pro-Style drivers.

JTR, which is essentially pre-fab DIY designs lol.

Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
Russdawg1 is offline  
post #3 of 22 Old 10-17-2019, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Better than PB16 Ultra

So it's well established the Rythmik FV 18 bests the PB-16 ultra?
Is there a DIY subwoofer driver that would best the FV 18??? Mainly fidelity?

Thanks in advance,
- Andy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Russdawg1 View Post
Rythmik F18 or FV18.

DIY utilizing 18” or 21” Pro-Style drivers.

JTR, which is essentially pre-fab DIY designs lol.
Andrew Robertson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 22 Old 10-17-2019, 08:08 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 449 Post(s)
Liked: 374
UM18 with an inuke would best it.

Look up some designs, and check out how the 16 Ultra measured over at data-bass.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Trimlock is online now  
post #5 of 22 Old 10-18-2019, 12:53 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Would the UM18 beat the Rhymathic FV18?
If I could get the driver for $300, I'd say okay. What are the best subwoofer drivers for DIY, that would beat either a UM18 or FV18?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trimlock View Post
UM18 with an inuke would best it.

Look up some designs, and check out how the 16 Ultra measured over at data-bass.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Andrew Robertson is offline  
post #6 of 22 Old 10-18-2019, 04:14 AM
Senior Member
 
Kothoga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 222
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 115 Post(s)
Liked: 151
Are you looking for a DIY solution or prebuilt? The dual 18" PSA V3611 is close in price but absolutely destroys the little 15" SVS, it is not even close.

For half the price of both you could build the ported horn Devastator with a B&C 21" and a NX3000D.

Theater: JVC RS540U, 2.35:1 142" screen, Onkyo RZ1100, Panasonic UB820, Outlaw Audio M2200 Monoblock x3, Klipsch RF7II, RC64II, RS62II, 5800CII x4 Atmos, PSA V3611 Subwoofer x2.
2 Channel: Parasound P6, Parasound A23+, Rega Planar 6 with Ortofon 2M Bronze, Klispch La Scala II, Behringer NX6000D, B&C 21DS115-4 powered Devastator V1 x2.
Kothoga is offline  
post #7 of 22 Old 10-18-2019, 05:09 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
johnson636's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Somewhere in the Outer Rim
Posts: 2,569
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1278 Post(s)
Liked: 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Robertson View Post
If I were to want to match, or better the BP-16 Ultra in fidelity, and hit as low, if not lower, what would I be recommended to buy?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Robertson View Post
Is there a DIY subwoofer driver that would best the FV 18??? Mainly fidelity?

Thanks in advance,
- Andy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Robertson View Post
Would the UM18 beat the Rhymathic FV18?
What are the best subwoofer drivers for DIY, that would beat either a UM18 or FV18?
Dude, you're in the Rabbit hole and don't even know it.

Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
Video Image: JVC RS500- Sony UBP-800X- Chromecast- 125" wide 16x9 white over black spandex screen
Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 PA460 in ported cabs 40Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
johnson636 is offline  
post #8 of 22 Old 10-18-2019, 06:16 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
SuperFist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,126
Mentioned: 64 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1374 Post(s)
Liked: 5611
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Dude, you're in the Rabbit hole and don't even know it.
But that's IF he's serious!

He might as well just call it a day and choose the dual 21" iPal TV42 by Power Sound Audio! (It's sitting next to a 12" sub in the pic below)

It seems he's just trying to see what's the most powerful sub with no real interest in actually purchasing it as he ups the ante every time someone mentions something, but time will tell.

We'll know if he says, "But what bests the iPal TV42?"

Mike Butny, Jk7.2, spyboy and 1 others like this.

Last edited by SuperFist; 10-18-2019 at 06:48 AM.
SuperFist is offline  
post #9 of 22 Old 10-18-2019, 08:52 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 3,105
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1815 Post(s)
Liked: 1400
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperFist View Post
But that's IF he's serious!



He might as well just call it a day and choose the dual 21" iPal TV42 by Power Sound Audio! (It's sitting next to a 12" sub in the pic below)



It seems he's just trying to see what's the most powerful sub with no real interest in actually purchasing it as he ups the ante every time someone mentions something, but time will tell.



We'll know if he says, "But what bests the iPal TV42?"




I’d throw out that Ricci’s M.A.U.L. Could possibly beat it.

But for that price, a F*Load of sealed UM18’s could also do it....
stegen likes this.

Leave it at 8 ohms and call it a day :)
Russdawg1 is offline  
post #10 of 22 Old 10-20-2019, 08:08 PM
Advanced Member
 
SpinMonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 986
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked: 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Robertson View Post
So it's well established the Rythmik FV 18 bests the PB-16 ultra?
Is there a DIY subwoofer driver that would best the FV 18??? Mainly fidelity?

Thanks in advance,
- Andy
Without knowing size and budget constraints, it's silly to suggest anything.

Any well designed DIY sub equals the fidelity, as you say, of the SVS
Heide264 likes this.
SpinMonster is online now  
post #11 of 22 Old 10-22-2019, 08:14 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Northern Okan range (NW Cascades region)
Posts: 10,885
Mentioned: 238 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked: 4317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Robertson View Post
If I were to want to match, or better the BP-16 Ultra in fidelity, and hit as low, if not lower, what would I be recommended to buy?
An RF-19 or SI-24 powered with a SpeakerPower 4k and a miniDSP would be a good start.

But I mean even dual UM-18's and a nu6kDSP can beat a SVS 16, so that's not a very high goal to shoot for...

When it comes to bass, for the most part it comes down to just having lots of total-cone-area.

Power, Excursion and Heat are your enemies and total-cone-area is your friend.
You just need enough power and excursion to hit the required SPL (which is whatever level you want to subject yourself to...)
Mike Butny and spyboy like this.
BassThatHz is offline  
post #12 of 22 Old 10-22-2019, 08:59 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 371
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 142 Post(s)
Liked: 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
An RF-19 or SI-24 powered with a SpeakerPower 4k and a miniDSP would be a good start.

But I mean even dual UM-18's and a nu6kDSP can beat a SVS 16, so that's not a very high goal to shoot for...

When it comes to bass, for the most part it comes down to just having lots of total-cone-area.

Power, Excursion and Heat are your enemies and total-cone-area is your friend.
You just need enough power and excursion to hit the required SPL (which is whatever level you want to subject yourself to...)
The best advice is here....

What are you really looking for?

Out of a factory box sub with some dials? That is fine, but there are other lesser known internet companies that do that better for less $ than SVS's largest subs. Though SVS is o.k. and has fair customer service from what I have read. JTR was mentioned and builds subs that really do what subs are designed to do - not always pretty but heavy lifting in a great way.

There are a thousand threads on this DIY forum with links to great low budget builds ("Marty's" are common the last few years). If you have the room and desire to tinker some, multiple large subs (at least 2) are better than 1. Lower cost 15s and better yet 18s work well in sealed (smaller) and even better in ported (large) with a cheapish Inuke with a quiet fan upgrade. But that is starting down the rabbit hole. 2 large ported subs within 12' or so with an amp (inuke dsp) is normally worth it if you are serious even in a large room.

From there it gets larger and more expensive with diminishing returns. Though butt shakers add an additional dimension. I'm thinking of building a subwoofer couch table to test against my aura butt shakers. This is what happens when you are bored and waiting on an additional black velvet order to continue to reduce reflected light... Which is cheaper that a 10k$ projector...

And I might need another 2 or so fp14000's, but then I likely need more direct power and maybe a sub-panel and then a quiet box for the amps and then a...

Have fun!
Mike Butny likes this.
cellarnoise is offline  
post #13 of 22 Old 10-23-2019, 06:39 AM
Senior Member
 
Kothoga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 222
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 115 Post(s)
Liked: 151
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
An RF-19 or SI-24 powered with a SpeakerPower 4k and a miniDSP would be a good start.

But I mean even dual UM-18's and a nu6kDSP can beat a SVS 16, so that's not a very high goal to shoot for...

When it comes to bass, for the most part it comes down to just having lots of total-cone-area.

Power, Excursion and Heat are your enemies and total-cone-area is your friend.
You just need enough power and excursion to hit the required SPL (which is whatever level you want to subject yourself to...)
This.

The PB16 is just a single 15" woofer so ~176in area. The V3611 I mentioned is ~509in. I had two PB16s (352in) and returned them for 2 V3611s (1,017in) and pocketed the extra $1,000.

But as said above, it's a rabbit hole. Now I'm building 21" subs and eyeing SI's Black Friday sale on their 24".
scottvalentin likes this.

Theater: JVC RS540U, 2.35:1 142" screen, Onkyo RZ1100, Panasonic UB820, Outlaw Audio M2200 Monoblock x3, Klipsch RF7II, RC64II, RS62II, 5800CII x4 Atmos, PSA V3611 Subwoofer x2.
2 Channel: Parasound P6, Parasound A23+, Rega Planar 6 with Ortofon 2M Bronze, Klispch La Scala II, Behringer NX6000D, B&C 21DS115-4 powered Devastator V1 x2.
Kothoga is offline  
post #14 of 22 Old 10-23-2019, 07:00 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Northern Okan range (NW Cascades region)
Posts: 10,885
Mentioned: 238 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked: 4317
15hz is like 73ft long at sea-level and room-temp. So it is substantially longer than the cone that is trying to produce it.

A tweeter needs to be infinitely light and stiff,
a subwoofer needs to be stiff, but for the most part it just needs to woof a near-infinite amount of air to reach 1hz loudly.

My general rule of thumb is 1 18 for every 1000cuft of air, or every 6ft from a listener, whichever is worse.

Excursion is a large portion of the distortion, which nearly halves with every doubling of cones.
Halving the excursion isn't half the distortion, it's more like a 4 or 8x improvement.

It is better to have 4x the cones than 4x the power. Both are 6db louder... but 4x the power is like 16x the heat. Heat causes things to fail and the magnetic field to weaken, and it smells.

The only disadvantage is all the space the subwoofer array occupies, and the number of amps and breakers required to push them (and the cost and low-WAF of all that...)
But it is best.

18's are so popular merely because their $'s per db ratio is right in the goldilocks-zone, it's neither too quiet nor too expensive.
BassThatHz is offline  
post #15 of 22 Old 10-24-2019, 03:34 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bear123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 6,561
Mentioned: 81 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2735 Post(s)
Liked: 4226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Robertson View Post
So it's well established the Rythmik FV 18 bests the PB-16 ultra?
Is there a DIY subwoofer driver that would best the FV 18??? Mainly fidelity?

Thanks in advance,
- Andy
Yes, this one. https://data-bass.com/#/systems/5c48...12ec?_k=g7ymgy

Higher output and lower distortion than the Rythmik, and without servo

There are a couple of other high excursion pro audio 18's that may be similar such as the Ipal but I haven't seen them tested. The above driver punches above its weight and actually outperforms many of the best 21" drivers out there.
bear123 is offline  
post #16 of 22 Old 10-26-2019, 10:00 PM
Advanced Member
 
SpinMonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 986
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked: 315
Another one dropped off the map.

For the sake of those searching here looking to best the SVS subs read on...

The SVS 16 ultra is an averaging performing sub. It's not the industry standard for bass reproduction. It uses a small driver compared to what DIY uses. DIY is really for the hobbyist looking to build something you can't get in the commercial sub industry because frankly, they can't sell a product that women don't want to look at. Further, building the sub is all the fun. It's a hobby. I like to work with wood, I understand the math behind the design, and I want something SVS doesn't sell.

Cost: if all you are trying to do is match the performance for less money but you want it to look like that sub, unless you have skills woodworking and automotive painting, just buy the SVS. You can't acquire the skills to design and build these things in a few hours of reading. Most of us have been doing this for years. (40 years for me). I built my first speaker at 12 years old using parts from a store I lived near in NY called Speakerkits. They sold everything including finished boxes.

If you are looking to best SVS performance, pick any pro 21" driver in the 500-1000 dollar range and put it in a large ported box, you will hit levels of bass with low distortion that would require a multiple of SVS subs to match. The downsides are the finish and the size. Want it to be gloss black? Add $1000 and take it to an autobody shop for an automotive finish provided you can move it back home without damaging it.

If you want it small, pretty, and not have to work, just buy the SVS.
Heide264 likes this.
SpinMonster is online now  
post #17 of 22 Old 10-27-2019, 06:03 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
ratm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,941
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
15hz is like 73ft long at sea-level and room-temp. So it is substantially longer than the cone that is trying to produce it.

A tweeter needs to be infinitely light and stiff,
a subwoofer needs to be stiff, but for the most part it just needs to woof a near-infinite amount of air to reach 1hz loudly.

My general rule of thumb is 1 18 for every 1000cuft of air, or every 6ft from a listener, whichever is worse.


Excursion is a large portion of the distortion, which nearly halves with every doubling of cones.
Halving the excursion isn't half the distortion, it's more like a 4 or 8x improvement.

It is better to have 4x the cones than 4x the power. Both are 6db louder
... but 4x the power is like 16x the heat. Heat causes things to fail and the magnetic field to weaken, and it smells.

The only disadvantage is all the space the subwoofer array occupies, and the number of amps and breakers required to push them (and the cost and low-WAF of all that...)
But it is best.

18's are so popular merely because their $'s per db ratio is right in the goldilocks-zone, it's neither too quiet nor too expensive.

Mind totally blown. Solid advice here.
SpinMonster likes this.
ratm is offline  
post #18 of 22 Old 10-28-2019, 11:38 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 133 Post(s)
Liked: 42
PSA v3611 vs 1 stereo integrity 24 inch sub most current version. What would be the pro and con of these 2 subwoofers assuming cost would be roughly equal for each. For movies in particular with some music in a 20x17x9 room. not to hijack the thread but I am in the same process at the moment. simply upgrading a SB4000 from the theater to the living room. I'm just worried about ULF since the v3611 is rated only to 16hz with 11 to 14hz in room response. it has more cone area (I think) than a single SI 24ht. roughly same 2 inch peak to peak throw.
[email protected] is offline  
post #19 of 22 Old 10-28-2019, 12:18 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: About 25" away from my computer screen
Posts: 5,398
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1284 Post(s)
Liked: 1274
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
... since the v3611 is rated only to 16hz with 11 to 14hz in room response...
Only? That's about 98% there. Anything lower gets expensive fast. The trick is to go that low with high SPL. My two sono-subs match it easily, and cost under $900 (vs $2250) including amplification. DIY solved the equation for me.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
_____________________ http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/auger-handle/ ________________________

Last edited by Augerhandle; 10-28-2019 at 12:24 PM.
Augerhandle is offline  
post #20 of 22 Old 10-28-2019, 12:50 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 449 Post(s)
Liked: 374
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
PSA v3611 vs 1 stereo integrity 24 inch sub most current version. What would be the pro and con of these 2 subwoofers assuming cost would be roughly equal for each. For movies in particular with some music in a 20x17x9 room. not to hijack the thread but I am in the same process at the moment. simply upgrading a SB4000 from the theater to the living room. I'm just worried about ULF since the v3611 is rated only to 16hz with 11 to 14hz in room response. it has more cone area (I think) than a single SI 24ht. roughly same 2 inch peak to peak throw.
Don't know what the SD is on the 18's that PS Audio uses. also just by looking at the port it looks woe-fully under sized for a 16hz port tune. If its comparable to the JTR sub, then the port maxes out around 110db. With a DIY version you can chose to build a bigger box with a bigger port.

Other wise the PS Audio one isn't a terrible choice.
Trimlock is online now  
post #21 of 22 Old 10-28-2019, 01:23 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 133 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trimlock View Post
Don't know what the SD is on the 18's that PS Audio uses. also just by looking at the port it looks woe-fully under sized for a 16hz port tune. If its comparable to the JTR sub, then the port maxes out around 110db. With a DIY version you can chose to build a bigger box with a bigger port.

Other wise the PS Audio one isn't a terrible choice.
I think the PSA is ported a little above 20hz. its hard to tell from the graph (CEA 2010) numbers and graph are on their site. the graph doesn't have a hump anywhere really and it dips about 2 maybe 3db at 20hz. so definitely ported above 20hz. CEA 2010 numbers from the site are 125.2db from 16 to 25hz and 132.5 from 31 to 50hz and 135.3db from 63 to 100hz. I would crossover at 80hz to a set of Titan DIY speakers. I want to be able to play reference flat (human ear flat) so 5db boost or so in bass. I have Minidsp with dirac to calibrate. Just was eyeing 1 or 2 SI 24ht subs sealed or ported but saw the v3611 looks really capable without the need to build and wait as long. Maybe even buy a set of PSA v3611 and call it a day. Is there any benefit to the SI 24.figure since you cant hear below 20hz getting 120db fairly flat to 15hz would be great and then just add a buttkicker or boss DIY to the platform for the 5 to 15hz range. From what I hear sub 5hz is mostly a dream. is this sound logic or do you really get better results with a sub that plays to 5hz instead of a buttkicker or boss DIY.
[email protected] is offline  
post #22 of 22 Old 10-28-2019, 01:39 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,210
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 449 Post(s)
Liked: 374
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I think the PSA is ported a little above 20hz. its hard to tell from the graph (CEA 2010) numbers and graph are on their site. the graph doesn't have a hump anywhere really and it dips about 2 maybe 3db at 20hz. so definitely ported above 20hz. CEA 2010 numbers from the site are 125.2db from 16 to 25hz and 132.5 from 31 to 50hz and 135.3db from 63 to 100hz. I would crossover at 80hz to a set of Titan DIY speakers. I want to be able to play reference flat (human ear flat) so 5db boost or so in bass. I have Minidsp with dirac to calibrate. Just was eyeing 1 or 2 SI 24ht subs sealed or ported but saw the v3611 looks really capable without the need to build and wait as long. Maybe even buy a set of PSA v3611 and call it a day. Is there any benefit to the SI 24.figure since you cant hear below 20hz getting 120db fairly flat to 15hz would be great and then just add a buttkicker or boss DIY to the platform for the 5 to 15hz range. From what I hear sub 5hz is mostly a dream. is this sound logic or do you really get better results with a sub that plays to 5hz instead of a buttkicker or boss DIY.
No, this thing is most likely tuned anywhere from 16-20hz, the undersized box has it rolling off early. It maintains the flat response from internal DSP and two strong motors. The SI 24 will give you better raw output down into the teens but if you are on a concrete slab then its not going to really matter much. You can hear sub 20hz content, it has to be louder but you can hear it how-ever in my experience the sub 20hz stuff is meant to be used for rumble more than it is meant to be heard. Many here chose to use buttkickers or BOSS instead of chasing sub 20hz and single digits.

The PSA and JTR subs aren't terrible buys in regards to OEM sub purchases. There are many worse options out there IMO and these two companies really give DIY a tough time.
Trimlock is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off