4 x Sealed Dayton Audio Ultimax UM18-22 18" (Build Thread) - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 59 Old 11-06-2019, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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As with all my builds I strive to do the best I can and try to get a professional finish.

The last three days I have been working tireless in order to get all the subs ready for painting and I am happy that today is that day. It wasn't easy but I have achieved what I have set out to do. I know it's not finished yet but atleast the "dirty", "hard" and "tiring" part is done

Today, I cut out the speakon connectors and did a final 600 grit sanding session for all the subs with my orbital sander. I then hoovered the inside of each sub and wiped them down with a damp cloth to get any dust off in preparation for painting soon.

Here are a few pics showing where I may be placing them, not sure yet!


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post #32 of 59 Old 11-08-2019, 12:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Morning all , I started the painting process yesterday afternoon. I am doing 3 undercoats (primer) and possible 4-5 matt black top coats depending on how they look after a couple of coats.
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post #33 of 59 Old 11-08-2019, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Guys a quick question. Would I need to seal all the joints internally with silicone? I mean used a lot of glue and all the boxes were clamped for a long time there doesn't seem to be any issue with the joints or gaps at all but I was wondering if I should silicone the inside of the cabinet ? I should have really done this before I put in my bracing but it's never too late I guess. If it's not necessary I won't bother.. I would appreciate your opinions.. Thank you.
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post #34 of 59 Old 11-08-2019, 06:01 AM
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Really looking very gorgeous . I'm having some plans to have 4 of this sealed. I'm going to wait for your finale product & wanna see how low can it go.

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post #35 of 59 Old 11-08-2019, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mkohman View Post
Guys a quick question. Would I need to seal all the joints internally with silicone? I mean used a lot of glue and all the boxes were clamped for a long time there doesn't seem to be any issue with the joints or gaps at all but I was wondering if I should silicone the inside of the cabinet ? I should have really done this before I put in my bracing but it's never too late I guess. If it's not necessary I won't bother.. I would appreciate your opinions.. Thank you.
I think it's especially important to caulk on a sealed driver. With a ported driver a tiny air leak won't make a huge difference, but on a sealed driver you depend on that airtight seal. That's my $0.02.

Don't forget if you use silicone to let it air out a few days before installing the driver so the gasses can escape. I've heard the gasses can damage a driver, don't know how accurate that info is though. YMMV.

HTH.
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post #36 of 59 Old 11-08-2019, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkohman View Post
Guys a quick question. Would I need to seal all the joints internally with silicone? I mean used a lot of glue and all the boxes were clamped for a long time there doesn't seem to be any issue with the joints or gaps at all but I was wondering if I should silicone the inside of the cabinet ? I should have really done this before I put in my bracing but it's never too late I guess. If it's not necessary I won't bother.. I would appreciate your opinions.. Thank you.


I wouldn’t bother. The finishing you’re doing will seal anything that glue didn’t in the first place.

Chris


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post #37 of 59 Old 11-08-2019, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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I wouldn’t bother. The finishing you’re doing will seal anything that glue didn’t in the first place.

Chris


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Thanks Chris, that was actually my thoughts too but I just wanted to double check. In fact what I did also do was mix some gorilla wood glue and MDF saw dust together and made it into a paste .. I then brushed that on all the internal joints. I think it will be absolutely fine . What I will also do is I will hot glue the speakon connection from within inside the cabinet after screwing it in from the back in order to prevent any possible leaks
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post #38 of 59 Old 11-08-2019, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jevchance View Post
I think it's especially important to caulk on a sealed driver. With a ported driver a tiny air leak won't make a huge difference, but on a sealed driver you depend on that airtight seal. That's my $0.02.

Don't forget if you use silicone to let it air out a few days before installing the driver so the gasses can escape. I've heard the gasses can damage a driver, don't know how accurate that info is though. YMMV.

HTH.

Thanks for the tip and useful information with regards to the gasses within the silicone
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post #39 of 59 Old 11-12-2019, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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This is where I'm currently at Paint finished and I've just installed the heavy duty rubber feet. So far I'm very pleased with the results. Just waiting for the polyester wadding and fiber filling to arrive so I can move onto finishing the inside...


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post #40 of 59 Old 11-13-2019, 05:43 AM
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I remember hearing that too

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It is true that you can act on the speaker's volume with different material and this can be obtained by making impedance measurements in Arta limp http://www.artalabs.hr/download.htm
here is a program that calculates boxes that i use myself it takes some time to learn it http://www.tolvan.com/index.php?page=/basta/basta.php
here you have such material me and many people with me in the boxes https://www.rockwool.co.uk/product-o...re%20downloads
Then you should use flexi with 26 kg in volume weight on a cubic volume
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post #41 of 59 Old 11-13-2019, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Guys I need some help with regards to cabling within inside the subwoofer and from the inuke to the subwoofers.. 

Is there anything I need to pay attention to? I was looking at using vandamme blue series studio grade 2 x 2.5mm but not sure if these are good for inside cabling of subwoofer and also any good for long runs as I will need 2 x 8m cables and 2 x 5m cables from the inukes to the subs. I would really appreciate if you could please advise me which cables I should buy. Thank you all

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post #42 of 59 Old 11-13-2019, 11:34 AM
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Guys I need some help with regards to cabling within inside the subwoofer and from the inuke to the subwoofers.. 

Is there anything I need to pay attention to? I was looking at using vandamme blue series studio grade 2 x 2.5mm but not sure if these are good for inside cabling of subwoofer and also any good for long runs as I will need 2 x 8m cables and 2 x 5m cables from the inukes to the subs. I would really appreciate if you could please advise me which cables I should buy. Thank you all

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I use OFC 12ga speaker wire for subs. Its sometimes overkill, but cheap enough to be worth the peace of mind.

Chris


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post #43 of 59 Old 11-13-2019, 11:53 AM
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Guys I need some help with regards to cabling within inside the subwoofer and from the inuke to the subwoofers..

Is there anything I need to pay attention to? I was looking at using vandamme blue series studio grade 2 x 2.5mm but not sure if these are good for inside cabling of subwoofer and also any good for long runs as I will need 2 x 8m cables and 2 x 5m cables from the inukes to the subs. I would really appreciate if you could please advise me which cables I should buy. Thank you all

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Hi
You can go whit vandame 2x2.5mm it shell handle easy about 4500 watt.
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post #44 of 59 Old 11-13-2019, 12:15 PM
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Guys I need some help with regards to cabling within inside the subwoofer and from the inuke to the subwoofers.
Not sure what you can get at your location, I use this on my builds with no issues: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Oxy.../dp/B001UNGJF6
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post #45 of 59 Old 11-13-2019, 03:12 PM
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Not sure what you can get at your location, I use this on my builds with no issues: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Oxy.../dp/B001UNGJF6
This http://www.bluejeanscable.co.uk/store/speaker/index.htm made in seattle
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post #46 of 59 Old 11-13-2019, 06:19 PM
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The OP isn't in Seattle. As he is on the other side of the pond I was giving him something to look for.
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post #47 of 59 Old 11-14-2019, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Again, a very time consuming but necessary task..double layer polyester wadding stapled followed by polyester fibre stuffing. It's coming along nicely

I wonder.. Will the loose polyester fibre stuffing be necessary after this?

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post #48 of 59 Old 11-14-2019, 01:13 PM
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Again, a very time consuming but necessary task..double layer polyester wadding stapled followed by polyester fibre stuffing. It's coming along nicely

I wonder.. Will the loose polyester fibre stuffing be necessary after this?

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Moore about 75% off the box and you lower the box Q value.
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post #49 of 59 Old 11-14-2019, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Moore about 75% off the box and you lower the box Q value.
Is that a good thing?

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post #50 of 59 Old 11-14-2019, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished.. I think this should be enough???

Is there any point in wrapping the braces with this polyester wadding at all or would that be a waste of time? Thank you 



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post #51 of 59 Old 11-14-2019, 11:19 PM
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Is that a good thing?

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yes you also lower the internal distortion in the box and get a better vb.
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post #52 of 59 Old 11-15-2019, 09:08 AM
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There is no need to wrap the braces.
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post #53 of 59 Old 11-15-2019, 11:38 AM
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Fantastic job on those. Really good work.

I'd probably stuff in some loose polyfill as well.

I built a couple of the PE kits for the UM18 (DIYSG boxes) and I did not silicone the joints after gluing. I figure I (and you I bet) got enough glue in the joints and with the finishing, they're sealed. It certainly won't hurt to add the silicone though, I personally just didn't feel it was necessary.

Anxious to hear your impressions of these and how you set them up (EQ etc.)
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post #54 of 59 Old 11-16-2019, 12:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Fantastic job on those. Really good work.

I'd probably stuff in some loose polyfill as well.

I built a couple of the PE kits for the UM18 (DIYSG boxes) and I did not silicone the joints after gluing. I figure I (and you I bet) got enough glue in the joints and with the finishing, they're sealed. It certainly won't hurt to add the silicone though, I personally just didn't feel it was necessary.

Anxious to hear your impressions of these and how you set them up (EQ etc.)

Thank you for your kind words. Indeed I didn't bother with the silicone process because it was too difficult to do after installing the bracing and I didn't feel that it was necessary due to the amount of glue I used however what I did do as an extra precaution was mix left over MDF saw dust with gorilla glue into a paste, then painted all the internal joints/corners with this mixed paste.


With regards to the poly fill, do you have any pics of the inside of your cabinets to give me an idea of where and how much I need to put in please? I am assuming I need to fill in all between the bracings up to where the drivers bottom will sit into the box? is that correct? Also do I very loosely fill or do I stuff in a lot and make it dense? Thank you
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post #55 of 59 Old 11-16-2019, 01:20 AM
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post #56 of 59 Old 11-16-2019, 01:24 AM
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[snip]....


With regards to the poly fill, do you have any pics of the inside of your cabinets to give me an idea of where and how much I need to put in please? I am assuming I need to fill in all between the bracings up to where the drivers bottom will sit into the box? is that correct? Also do I very loosely fill or do I stuff in a lot and make it dense? Thank you
You could just stuff a cheap polyfill king size bed pillow inside each one and call it done after you line the sides....


Juju
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post #57 of 59 Old 11-16-2019, 03:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Nice work as usual! Your room looks so nice from the pictures I’ve seen.
Thank you Mike, much appreciated
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post #58 of 59 Old 11-16-2019, 07:33 AM
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With regards to the poly fill, do you have any pics of the inside of your cabinets to give me an idea of where and how much I need to put in please? I am assuming I need to fill in all between the bracings up to where the drivers bottom will sit into the box? is that correct? Also do I very loosely fill or do I stuff in a lot and make it dense? Thank you
I couldn't find a picture of my UM18's but I found one of my JBLs (the $29 ones) with stuffing. You've got the right idea. I stuffed to the back of the driver and left it firm enough to not blow around in there but still fairly loose.

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post #59 of 59 Old 11-18-2019, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I couldn't find a picture of my UM18's but I found one of my JBLs (the $29 ones) with stuffing. You've got the right idea. I stuffed to the back of the driver and left it firm enough to not blow around in there but still fairly loose.
thank you and apologies for the late reply
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