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post #1 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 04:26 AM - Thread Starter
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2 Marty Subs plus 1

Building a home theatre with Plans for 2 Marty subs on front, however I have discovered I may have room to add another sub on the side wall.


I have the space for 300mm (11.8 inch) x 600mm (23.6 inch) x 1000mm (40 inch)


Can I do anything with this space for a sub that will match in with the 2 martys?
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 07:15 AM
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It's your room, you can do whatever you want. One of the most important rules here is to fill every space with subs

Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
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Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 PA460 in ported cabs 40Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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post #3 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 07:19 AM
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It's your room, you can do whatever you want. One of the most important rules here is to fill every space with subs
Ha, Ha. Thanks for the laugh.
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 07:41 AM
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If subwoofers were flowers...



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post #5 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 07:49 AM
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Ha, Ha. Thanks for the laugh.
Who's laughing


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post #6 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 08:16 AM
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Best answer would be to measure the potential spot and see what it produces. If all it adds is piling on a null or peak already produced by the Marty’s, then no, it probably wouldn’t be worth it. If the location does deliver something you want then it’s a matter of configuring a custom driver/box/port tune that blends with existing subs and physically fits in your space. I’m not aware of any “standard” diy sub with a 1x2 footprint.

SPEAKERS: 3 x DIYSG 1099's LCR; DIYSG HTM 6's and 8's surround; 4 x RSL C34E's atmos.
SUBS: 4 x UM18-22 Mini Marty's and 2 x 21DS114-4 Devastators
SIGNAL CHAIN: Denon X4400; Minidsp 2x4 HD; 2 x Jensen Iso Sub 2RX; 3 x NX6000d.
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lawdogx View Post
and physically fits in your space. I’m not aware of any “standard” diy sub with a 1x2 footprint.

Thanks, I guess that is my answer, no ability to build a sub that fits into that space as no DIY plans are available.
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post #8 of 14 Old 11-09-2019, 02:34 PM
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2 Marty Subs plus 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by koolego View Post
Thanks, I guess that is my answer, no ability to build a sub that fits into that space as no DIY plans are available.


Thats a horrible reason to give up, lol. Its called DIY for a reason. A ported box is simple enough to design, and there are quite a few people here willing to help.

Now whether its worth adding a third is a valid question, but around here the answer is almost always MOAR SUB.

EDIT: Just ran some rough numbers. I’d build it as a modded vbss. PA460 with same tune as the martys. Cheap and easy to power. Assuming you’re running UM18’s in the martys, will give you a nice additional midbass punch.


Chris


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Last edited by a77cj7; 11-09-2019 at 03:02 PM.
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post #9 of 14 Old 11-10-2019, 02:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
I’d build it as a modded vbss. PA460 with same tune as the martys. Cheap and easy to power. Assuming you’re running UM18’s in the martys, will give you a nice additional midbass punch.
Awesome, so its doable.

I am a little lost on the audio side, such as I am not sure what a vbss is or a MOAR SUB.

The room is being built now and once the drywall goes up I will not be able to get behind it again so its key to identify speaker location now.

So I like your post and will run audio cable to this location so I can build this modded sub.

Would 12 gauge speak wire be suitable for this sub?


Speakers and subs

3 x Aggressive 1299 (L,C,R) (DIY Sound group)
4 x HT-8 (surrounds and backs) (DIY Sound group)
4 x RSL C34E's (ceiling)
2 x Full Marty Dayton Audio UM18-22 18'' Ultimax
Plus modded vbss with a PA460

Thanks Chris


Mark
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post #10 of 14 Old 11-10-2019, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koolego View Post
Awesome, so its doable.

I am a little lost on the audio side, such as I am not sure what a vbss is or a MOAR SUB.

The room is being built now and once the drywall goes up I will not be able to get behind it again so its key to identify speaker location now.

So I like your post and will run audio cable to this location so I can build this modded sub.

Would 12 gauge speak wire be suitable for this sub?


Speakers and subs

3 x Aggressive 1299 (L,C,R) (DIY Sound group)
4 x HT-8 (surrounds and backs) (DIY Sound group)
4 x RSL C34E's (ceiling)
2 x Full Marty Dayton Audio UM18-22 18'' Ultimax
Plus modded vbss with a PA460

Thanks Chris


Mark


speaker wire is relatively cheap so i would run it to as many places as you might later use just to be safe and 12 ga wire should be perfect as long as you dont have any super long runs
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post #11 of 14 Old 11-10-2019, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koolego View Post
Awesome, so its doable.

I am a little lost on the audio side, such as I am not sure what a vbss is or a MOAR SUB.

The room is being built now and once the drywall goes up I will not be able to get behind it again so its key to identify speaker location now.

So I like your post and will run audio cable to this location so I can build this modded sub.

Would 12 gauge speak wire be suitable for this sub?


Speakers and subs

3 x Aggressive 1299 (L,C,R) (DIY Sound group)
4 x HT-8 (surrounds and backs) (DIY Sound group)
4 x RSL C34E's (ceiling)
2 x Full Marty Dayton Audio UM18-22 18'' Ultimax
Plus modded vbss with a PA460

Thanks Chris


Mark
Great speaker choices!
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SPEAKERS: 3 x DIYSG 1099's LCR; DIYSG HTM 6's and 8's surround; 4 x RSL C34E's atmos.
SUBS: 4 x UM18-22 Mini Marty's and 2 x 21DS114-4 Devastators
SIGNAL CHAIN: Denon X4400; Minidsp 2x4 HD; 2 x Jensen Iso Sub 2RX; 3 x NX6000d.
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post #12 of 14 Old 11-10-2019, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koolego View Post
Awesome, so its doable.

I am a little lost on the audio side, such as I am not sure what a vbss is or a MOAR SUB.

The room is being built now and once the drywall goes up I will not be able to get behind it again so its key to identify speaker location now.

So I like your post and will run audio cable to this location so I can build this modded sub.

Would 12 gauge speak wire be suitable for this sub?


Speakers and subs

3 x Aggressive 1299 (L,C,R) (DIY Sound group)
4 x HT-8 (surrounds and backs) (DIY Sound group)
4 x RSL C34E's (ceiling)
2 x Full Marty Dayton Audio UM18-22 18'' Ultimax
Plus modded vbss with a PA460

Thanks Chris


Mark

Lol. MOAR SUB was just a colloquialised version of “more sub”. Meaning the common answer around here os to always add more.

VBSS is a favored design around here. Value Buster Subwoofer System. Its designed to be the most possible bass for the least money.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...ead.html?amp=1
The design requires significant modifications to fit your space, so really you will just be using the same driver and tune.

I would definitely run speaker wire to the location. Having an unused speaker jack is pretty minor. Wanting to add a sub in the future and not having the wiring is a much bigger issue.

I’m sure 12ga will be fine.

That will be a very nice setup. I think you’ll be very happy with it.

Chris


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post #13 of 14 Old 11-10-2019, 11:02 AM
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Did some quick modeling with winisd.
If you build a 3/4” enclosure to the dimensions you posted, it ends up at 5.1 ft^3 gross volume.

Add the driver, port, and bracing, and should end up in the 4.25-4.5 ft^3 net volume.
I modeled it with a single 4” port to save volume. Port velocity ends up a bit high in the low 20’s m/s, but I believe its worth it not to loose more volume.

The precision port length comes up as 17”, which is the uncut length making that simple.

Modeled with 500 watts and a 20hz 2nd order HPF looks pretty decent to me.

This design will require some eq, of course. Response is similar to the VBSS, but loosing on the low end due to reduced volume.

The sub goes in the 24x40 side, of course. I’m assuming that is the front. Due to port length, it will need to exit side or top. You could make it front exit by adding an elbow, but will require some custom work.

Chris


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post #14 of 14 Old 11-12-2019, 03:37 AM - Thread Starter
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