Hardwood Blocks behind baffle noob question - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Hardwood Blocks behind baffle noob question

What is the general consensus on the type of hardwood to use for blocks glued to my baffle before I screw in my drivers? I am using 3/4 MDF now.
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:15 PM
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Your build thread look like you're using mdf for your enclosures, why wouldn't you just use the mdf

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post #3 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Your build thread look like you're using mdf for your enclosures, why wouldn't you just use the mdf
Another noob question here, but is MDF considered hardwood? I would totally use that if that would be ok.
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post #4 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post
What is the general consensus on the type of hardwood to use for blocks glued to my baffle before I screw in my drivers? I am using 3/4 MDF now.


Any type will work. Plywood is fine too, as is pine (though it can split).

Any decent wood will hold the screw many times better than mdf.

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post #5 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post
Another noob question here, but is MDF considered hardwood? I would totally use that if that would be ok.


Lol, no, mdf isnt hardwood. A mdf block is better than nothing, but worse than pretty much any other option.

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post #6 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:21 PM
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Dunno about consensus, but IIRC I cut up a ~3/4" x 2" x 4' strip of birch hardwood (from HomeDepot) and it worked very well.
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post #7 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post
Another noob question here, but is MDF considered hardwood? I would totally use that if that would be ok.
MDF is an engineered product, uses wood dust but isn't called wood. Paper is made from wood as well.
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 12:47 PM
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But, on the hardness scale, it'd be considered a very soft wood.

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post #9 of 16 Old 11-19-2019, 02:05 PM
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the birch hardwood suggestion will be quite adequate

predrill undersized, shoot a bit of WD-40 into the hole and work the screws in about 3/4's of the way

Kregs screws or button head hex-drive screws will eliminate any cam-out issues

i had oak available- bradded, PL3'd and clamped
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post #10 of 16 Old 11-20-2019, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asarose247 View Post
the birch hardwood suggestion will be quite adequate

predrill undersized, shoot a bit of WD-40 into the hole and work the screws in about 3/4's of the way

Kregs screws or button head hex-drive screws will eliminate any cam-out issues

i had oak available- bradded, PL3'd and clamped
2 questions.

1. Why WD-40?
2. Could I use wood glue and not PL3? I have to think titebond 3 would work fine.
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post #11 of 16 Old 11-20-2019, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post
2 questions.



1. Why WD-40?

2. Could I use wood glue and not PL3? I have to think titebond 3 would work fine.


Titebond is fine.

WD would reduce wall friction on the screw, but not something I’ve ever tried.

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post #12 of 16 Old 11-20-2019, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm
… 2. Could I use wood glue …
I used wood glue, then drilled a small (3/32") pilot hole before inserting the screws and had no problems.
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post #13 of 16 Old 11-20-2019, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post
I used wood glue, then drilled a small (3/32") pilot hole before inserting the screws and had no problems.
I've done the same and sometimes shoot a 1" to 1.25" brad to hold the block while it dries so I don't have to clamp/clamps aren't in my way etc.
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post #14 of 16 Old 11-20-2019, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Once again, my FD friends come through. One of the guys at my station had some 3/4 inch Oak lying around. So I'll be gluing that to my MDF and then using 2 inch wood screws.
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post #15 of 16 Old 11-21-2019, 08:25 AM
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WD40 is a good idea. Predrilling is a must. Blocks that small will split easily.

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post #16 of 16 Old 11-23-2019, 04:17 AM
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