Guys, first post here. The 1099 being 36.25" tall, does it make more sense to have the drivers configured with both of the two 10" woofers at the very bottom of the cabinet and the horn at the very top? This configuration put the CD horn right at or closer to most folks ears level when sitting down as floor standers. I find it odd having to raise it up with speaker this tall so the horn is at ears level

Some people don't use stands but rather have them sitting on subs or something else. There have been a few builds here where they cut the baffle and rearranged it like you're proposing.

^^ Make sense. IMO, at 36.25" tall, it is more of a floor stander than a bookshelf speaker, so I would rather have them standing on the floor.

@tvuong yes I believe the tweeters should be at ear level when you are sitting down. So if you are handy and don't have subs to put them on, build your own enclosures to ensure the correct tweeter height. Create a sealed cavity at the bottom to increase the height and put sand in it to keep them secure while sitting on your carpet.

^^ The problem with that is the center speaker will block my projector screen (I prefer 3 vertical 1099's for LCR). At 36.25" tall, it sits right at the edge bottom of my screen. Perhaps, diysoundgroup can offer a separate kit option with the dual woofers at bottom with larger bottom ports only and horn at very top kit? That would work better for me and for folks planning to use them as floor standers.

The original 1099 design as I read it from Tux's post was that the tweeter mid section was configurable to be sideways making a center channel that had a horizontal Seos 10 with mids under it. The idea was that the end user could configure the 3 sections as a WTMW or TMWW as well as a sideways center channel. DIYSG used a single box for center or main speaker doing away with the ability to have the tweeter on top. The center channel version was a reason that 2 mids were needed. In TMM operation, a Seos 10 does not need anything but a 10" under it for full range operation although it may not have been that exact 10 used in the design.

Another design goal was 99db efficiency by using the existing 10"x2 woofers with the mids to get efficiency up.

I had asked in various threads about this but no one ever responded. I'm sure I oversimplified things here leaving out heavy teach but I'm not knowledgeable in the way the designer is.

The original thread which has pictures of the 3 separate boxes with the tweeter on top:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...os-design.html

When you order the 1099 kit from diysg it comes with the drivers, seos, and a front baffle. When you order you can choose from two configurations, horizontal (for use as a center) or vertical. Both configurations have the CD in the middle chamber. I’ve seen guys do custom configurations like you’re mentioning with the 1299, but they’re having to build their own baffle. I haven’t seen many custom 1099 configurations, but if it works for the 1299 it should work for the 1099. If you search the 1299 builds you’ll find a few examples, I think I remember one from last week. When I get near a computer I’ll try to dig some up for you ...

The reason the woofers are separated the way they are is to minimize floor/ceiling bounce. The distance apart is such that at the frequencies the woofers play there is destructive interference between the woofers off-axis vertically. Placing them closer together will work and sound fine, but vertical off-axis performance will suffer.

Put a MBM under them

Here ya go TV, Blister did something similar with 1299’s:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...1299-tmww.html


That baffle cut looks like it requires some mad router skills

If you are going to cut the 1099 baffles you had better have a VERY thin blade! There’s no room for error with the vertical baffle! You would want to order the horizontal or center channel version. It would be easier to make the cut. I will try and take a couple pictures for you when I get home from working overtime.

As you can see in the pictures that the vertical baffles would be impossible to cut up easily to create a TMWW layout.



As you can see in the center channel baffles, you have very little room for error but still possible to create the TMWW.

I built 1099's about a year ago and rather than have them sit on something or make any attempt to rearrange the design I decided on just building a 1' box to raise the CD to ear level. Glued together, sanded flush, and painted all together to make it look nice and really enjoy how it turned out. No risk of change in sound and nice aesthetics, kinda makes the L/R look more imposing.

Yeah, that is exactly what I like to have. I just don't have the skill nor tools to do what Blister did though. I think, if DIYSG has a kit cut like what Blister has for the 1099, it will sell.
Thanks.

That's what I would do, but why sand? It shouldn't need the additional weight...

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@DavidinGA I have 2 large rhodesian ridgebacks (92 and 78 lbs) who tear ass through my house and if one of them hit that 1099 it would be toast. I am looking out for tvuongs problems he never knew existed

^^ Thanks. I cannot have LCR speakers taller than 37”. That is my problem. I might just build the HTM12, I don’t know it is as good or better than the 1099? Who has heard them both?

If the waveguide and mids are put up towards the top, where would the top three ports go? It looks a bit strange if they're under the mids. If you replace all six ports with two larger round ones then they wouldn't fit on the front panel without making the cabinet taller.

^^ Bigger slotted port at the bottom like Blister’s 1299

Attached Thumbnails

 

EDIT: Never mind. I realize the mids aren't sealed back. Disregard terrible rendering below.

I could probably work on my photo editing skills, but wouldn't this work just fine?

I can't speak on the 1099s, but looks to be similar clearance as what I had making the cut on the 1299s. I used a standard width blade, but bought a new Diablo blade for the saw and spent over an hour installing and aligning everything to make sure it was dead straight. Not much room for error!! You can probably see in the video, but I probably had 1/8 of an inch of full thickness material left on the top of the wave guide before adding the top plate. Had to be pretty careful with it, but once glued to the top plate it was sturdy. That cut made me nervous... Let's just say I was prepared to make new baffles if that didn't work out well