Titan lx build in NJ - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally ordered my titans lx for 2 channel/movie watching. Build process started but kinda upset as to firing the baffle on and does not line up properly and is out of wack. So don’️t know if I will be ordering another one or just deal with it. Building the second one now everything seems to fit together perfectly but I did notice the panels on the 1st cabinet and 2nd to be warped a tad. Wondering if that’️s the reason for the baffle to be off. Hoping the 2nd comes out better.
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post #2 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankie2075 View Post
Finally ordered my titans lx for 2 channel/movie watching. Build process started but kinda upset as to firing the baffle on and does not line up properly and is out of wack. So don’️t know if I will be ordering another one or just deal with it. Building the second one now everything seems to fit together perfectly but I did notice the panels on the 1st cabinet and 2nd to be warped a tad. Wondering if that’️s the reason for the baffle to be off. Hoping the 2nd comes out better.


Looks like you didn’t get it squared up when glueing. You may be able to pull it back in with a long clamp corner to corner when attaching the baffle.

Chris
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post #3 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 10:34 AM
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You may have tried to do too many pieces at once OR clamped too hard. It also helps to use the top/bottom/sides as clamping/squaring support when gluing. Basically build the full cabinet each time, even though you're only gluing a piece or two, just to make sure the cabinet stays square. I learned that the hard way on one of my first builds and had to pry pieces apart, sand and re-glue. The ply is more forgiving than MDF if you want to separate them and do that.

As Chris said. Use 2x4 wood across on the top and bottom of the cabinet to apply equal pressure so you can really clamp hard with 3-4' clamps to see if you can square it a bit when you go to clamp the baffle on.
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post #4 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankie2075 View Post
Finally ordered my titans lx for 2 channel/movie watching. Build process started but kinda upset as to firing the baffle on and does not line up properly and is out of wack. So don’️t know if I will be ordering another one or just deal with it. Building the second one now everything seems to fit together perfectly but I did notice the panels on the 1st cabinet and 2nd to be warped a tad. Wondering if that’️s the reason for the baffle to be off. Hoping the 2nd comes out better.
Hello Frankie,

I think @a77cj7 hit the nail on the head with his suggestion. I saw the same exact thing when a friend of mine built the titans. It took a long clamp against to diagonal corners to 'square up' the enclosure. Then the baffle could be glued on.

Good luck|!

Dave
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post #5 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 11:03 AM
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That's what cabinet makers would call a 'racked cabinet' and can happen if parts aren't glued up square and flush. It mostly happens if your rear panel isn't kept flat as you glue parts to it. If you haven't glued the front baffle on you can fix it.

Looking at the pictures you posted: Take a long clamp going from the top of the cabinet to the bottom of the cabinet and put the pad of the clamp half way on the baffle section that is sticking out, and halfway on the panel it needs to flush up with. As you tighten the clamp it will pull those pieces together. If you do that on the right and left side of the cabinet, it will square it up. After you do that to make sure it works okay, unclamp, add glue, then reclamp to square up the cabinet and obviously lightly clamp the baffle on from front to back as well.

If that's not easy to understand, I'll try to draw some pictures or explain it with more detail.

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post #6 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
That's what cabinet makers would call a 'racked cabinet' and can happen if parts aren't glued up square and flush. It mostly happens if your rear panel isn't kept flat as you glue parts to it. If you haven't glued the front baffle on you can fix it.

Looking at the pictures you posted: Take a long clamp going from the top of the cabinet to the bottom of the cabinet and put the pad of the clamp half way on the baffle section that is sticking out, and halfway on the panel it needs to flush up with. As you tighten the clamp it will pull those pieces together. If you do that on the right and left side of the cabinet, it will square it up. After you do that to make sure it works okay, unclamp, add glue, then reclamp to square up the cabinet and obviously lightly clamp the baffle on from front to back as well.

If that's not easy to understand, I'll try to draw some pictures or explain it with more detail.
Thanks Erich I think I have an idea of what your saying I have to buy some big clamps and try it. If I can’t might have to draw it for me. Your definitely right about the rear panel I did it on the folding table and it wasn’t level. I do believe that was the problem. 2nd I’m building coming out much better because I used the baffle each time i glued a side on with have it squared.
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post #7 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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https://www.parts-express.com/acoust...ieces--260-511

Would this be good for the internal foam for walls?
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post #8 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bur05XP View Post
You may have tried to do too many pieces at once OR clamped too hard. It also helps to use the top/bottom/sides as clamping/squaring support when gluing. Basically build the full cabinet each time, even though you're only gluing a piece or two, just to make sure the cabinet stays square. I learned that the hard way on one of my first builds and had to pry pieces apart, sand and re-glue. The ply is more forgiving than MDF if you want to separate them and do that.

As Chris said. Use 2x4 wood across on the top and bottom of the cabinet to apply equal pressure so you can really clamp hard with 3-4' clamps to see if you can square it a bit when you go to clamp the baffle on.
Started doing it for the 2nd one and it’s much better thanks!
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post #9 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by frankie2075 View Post
https://www.parts-express.com/acoust...ieces--260-511

Would this be good for the internal foam for walls?
It may be, but just as an FYI this is what a few of us have used, which was more than enough for 3 Titans: https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTou...6482/202710055
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post #10 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 01:58 PM
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+1 on the UltraTouch Denim. Cost effective and works great. I drizzle wood glue and put a few large staples to hold it in place.
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post #11 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
It may be, but just as an FYI this is what a few of us have used, which was more than enough for 3 Titans: https://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTou...6482/202710055
Do you know the thickness? Matt said 2in is what he recommends.
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post #12 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Next question I have where do you guys usually put the XO?
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post #13 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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https://www.acoustimac.com/roxul-rb4-2in/

Fellas how about this? This is what I used on my 1099s 52$ not to bad
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post #14 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 03:51 PM
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Next question I have where do you guys usually put the XO?
Not my work/pic, but here you go
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Automation: Alexa- Harmony Hub- Wemo Dimmer Switch- Wemo Smart Plug BatCave: SY Triple Black
Video Image: JVC RS500- Sony UBP-800X- Chromecast- 125" wide 16x9 white over black spandex screen
Audio: 5.2.4 Marantz SR7011- (LCR) Stage Right 15" PA- (Surrounds) (4) BIC FH6-LCR- (Atmos) (4) Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch- (Subs)2 23ishcuft ported HS24s 14-15Hz tune- 4 PA460 in ported cabs 40Hz tune- FP20000Q- 2 Sanway FP10000Q- Crown XLS1500- . To be continued...
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post #15 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Not my work/pic, but here you go
Got it! Thanks!!
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post #16 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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So just put the baffle on the second one fits pretty good way better then the first. Tomorrow I will go out and buy some big clamps to try and help square it out.


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post #17 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 05:33 PM
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Titan lx build in NJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankie2075 View Post
Attachment 2645222

So just put the baffle on the second one fits pretty good way better then the first. Tomorrow I will go out and buy some big clamps to try and help square it out.


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Looks like the center clamp on the close side should be long enough to fix the other box. Try running it corner to corner and tightening a bit. Try it dry first, as you’ll have to work quick once glue is involved.

EDIT: Never mind, optical illusion with the window, lol.
If you have a harbor freight store, they have clamps that are really cheap, but work well.

Chris
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post #18 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
Looks like the center clamp on the close side should be long enough to fix the other box. Try running it corner to corner and tightening a bit. Try it dry first, as you’ll have to work quick once glue is involved.

EDIT: Never mind, optical illusion with the window, lol.
If you have a harbor freight store, they have clamps that are really cheap, but work well.

Chris


Haha just seen that too. I have that store right next to my job and Lowe’s. Almost every lunch break I’m in there. Love harbor freight.


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post #19 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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A little frank and jack to help with the build


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post #20 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay looking to add these to the bottom of the enclosure how would I go about doing so?


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post #21 of 45 Old 11-24-2019, 09:55 PM
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Do you know the thickness? Matt said 2in is what he recommends.
Those Ultra touch rolls from home depot will work, they are thick enough. You can staple them in or use spray adhesive.

The Roxul you linked would probably work as well.
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post #22 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 04:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Those Ultra touch rolls from home depot will work, they are thick enough. You can staple them in or use spray adhesive.

The Roxul you linked would probably work as well.
Matt if you can or anybody is there something at Lowe’s some type of insulation I can also use and work? I have Lowe’s near my job would like to pick it up and get started thanks!
Or this
IZO All Supply (6 Pk) 2"x12"x12" Soundproofing Foam Acoustic Eggcrate Tiles Studio Foam Sound Wedges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G61TJCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kl82Db2938HTX

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post #23 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 05:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Titan lx build in NJ

Which speakon connections do I get from parts express there are a lot lol.

Would these work for woofer part?

https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-059

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post #24 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 07:11 AM
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+2 on the UltraTouch Denim. Forget the rest...
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post #25 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
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+2 on the UltraTouch Denim. Forget the rest...


I just placed the order for it!


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post #26 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 07:23 AM
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Which speakon connections do I get from parts express there are a lot lol.

Would these work for woofer part?

https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-059
I prefer these https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...SABEgIpQPD_BwE

Get 4 pole all around. Leaves you with options down the road.

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post #27 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I prefer these https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...SABEgIpQPD_BwE

Get 4 pole all around. Leaves you with options down the road.


All I need is a positive and negative for the woofer couldn’t I just use 2 pole?


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post #28 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F192844607571

Anybody use these amps before and think they would be a good match?


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post #29 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F192844607571

Anybody know if these are good amps or would be good.


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post #30 of 45 Old 11-25-2019, 12:16 PM
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Next question I have where do you guys usually put the XO?
Frankie, check out this thread, which shows what I thought to be a really elegant solution to externally mounting the crossover. It could be made even nicer with a little bit of techflex over the short wire runs, and maybe some cable pants at the end.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...5lx-build.html
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