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post #1 of 41 Old 12-08-2019, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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What brands

Dayton, tang bang, peerless, deaf bounce, wavecor, morel, css, lavoce, fi, and I’m sure I am leaving a lot out....

So coming from more of back ground in car audio and I’ve pretty well never messed with any of the DIY HT brands so when I hear people discuss these brands it’s like foreign language to anyone new to this forum.

I am curious to know what brands people have experience with, what price point vs quality of the products. I hear a lot of the guys that are always on a budget getting (16) $30 subs but not much discussion of the upper end subs which has been hard to try and figure out for the guy who wants (4) $400 subs and everything in between. I get that a brands like Dayton have cheap and expensive that just doesn’t mean a lot for someone just getting into this hobby.

This might be too much to ask but as someone who is new.... where do you start? When buying car audio I was used to buying subs for $550 each so when someone suggest buying a $35 sub or even $100 sub. I look at it like will the quality be any good or did I just over pay for the JL audio sub I had in my truck?

I feel like all the brands I listed above are like buying a Kia. It will do the job but what if I wanted Corvette performance..... ?
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post #2 of 41 Old 12-08-2019, 02:08 PM
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Mmmmm....Corvette. Love my built C7Z.


Speakers? I'm moving to Italian made B&C drivers. Using 2 of their 21" in my Devastators. The $30 JBLs from Best Buy are mostly being used on BOSS platforms.

Theater: JVC RS540U, 2.35:1 142" screen, Onkyo RZ1100, Panasonic UB820, Outlaw Audio M2200 Monoblock x3, Klipsch RF7II, RC64II, RS62II, 5800CII x4 Atmos, PSA V3611 Subwoofer x2.
2 Channel: Parasound P6, Parasound A23+, Rega Planar 6 with Ortofon 2M Bronze, Klispch La Scala II, Behringer NX6000D, B&C 21DS115-4 powered Devastator V1 x2.
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post #3 of 41 Old 12-08-2019, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Mmmmm....Corvette. Love my built C7Z.


Speakers? I'm moving to Italian made B&C drivers. The $30 JBLs from Best Buy are mostly being used on BOSS platforms.
What’s your reasoning behind going. B&C? I was under the impression B&C was better for music vs HT? Is that accurate
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post #4 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mharper3 View Post
I feel like all the brands I listed above are like buying a Kia. It will do the job but what if I wanted Corvette performance..... ?
The sane person buys the Kia because it is good enough 98% of the time...stuck in commuter traffic and hauling groceries. The 'vette performance is only used about 0.02% of driving but it looks really cool when stuck in traffic...but really sucks for hauling plywood for building subs...so you should buy a truck

The low budget drivers are fine when used within limits. The $500 JL beats the $35 JBL but some folks would rather save the $ since they won't miss the increased performance capability. Only you can decide what is right for yours ears and wallet. If you have lots of space, multiple budget drivers (and/or larger drivers) may be quite the bargain. If you only have 3 ft^3 to work with, you probably want a much better (and more expensiove) driver that you can pound the hell out of without melting it.

Keep in mind that the budgets here range from $100 to $100k so knowing your budget is critical for any discussion.

Good luck!
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post #5 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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The sane person buys the Kia because it is good enough 98% of the time...stuck in commuter traffic and hauling groceries. The 'vette performance is only used about 0.02% of driving but it looks really cool when stuck in traffic...but really sucks for hauling plywood for building subs...so you should buy a truck

The low budget drivers are fine when used within limits. The $500 JL beats the $35 JBL but some folks would rather save the $ since they won't miss the increased performance capability. Only you can decide what is right for yours ears and wallet. If you have lots of space, multiple budget drivers (and/or larger drivers) may be quite the bargain. If you only have 3 ft^3 to work with, you probably want a much better (and more expensiove) driver that you can pound the hell out of without melting it.

Keep in mind that the budgets here range from $100 to $100k so knowing your budget is critical for any discussion.

Good luck!
I get what you are saying. That is also why I own a truck. hahaha.

What I am trying to shed some light on as guys like me that only know the brands that you are going to find at your local bestbuy. I'm very familiar with Klipsch, I like them. I'd probably use them again cuz that's all I know. I will, some day in the future, when I have learned a lot more I'll probably get a lot more specific about my personal project. I've got to have a little more direction before I start diving into that mess....

However, I look at a speaker like wavecor and they have $500 subs. Are those much higher quality than your big name brand but equal or less price because they are sold direct and don't carry a huge name brand? Do I buy Klipsch for $1200 or build my own for $700. this isn't about fit and finish it's all about sound that i'm worried about. labor is free in this consideration.

I'm really trying to speak in general because this is more about learning in general vs my one specific project. I would assume for anyone that is new and coming to this forum is running into some of the same learning curve.
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post #6 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 01:13 PM
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@Mharper3 there is no question that you should build your own, especially if you can measure, cut, solder and paint.



I have some of the cheapest diy speakers available, the $100 c-note bookshelves from parts express. With my unprofessional ear, they sound better than both pairs of my $80 chinese speakers (surrounds and garage), my polk bookshelves in zone 2 and my $300 JBL Arena speakers. I am already looking to build 3 HTM speakers for my LCR.


Now, for subs, I got 2 of the jbl cs1214 subwoofers for $34 each after reading about them here in this forum. With some eq help and a simple box, they sound just as good as my $349 klipsch sub, which I have since returned. I am now working on dual end tables, an inuke and BR 2049 atmos bluray so I can finally shake the house!



Sites I have bookmarked for reference.



https://www.diysoundgroup.com/
https://www.parts-express.com/?gclid...gaAsfLEALw_wcB
https://meniscusaudio.com/
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/
https://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-measmt.htm
https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp




the rabbit hole is deep, enjoy!
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post #7 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 03:23 PM
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You're asking a big question, and it will depend on a specific driver. Just because brand A driver X is excellent, doesn't mean driver Y will be. But it may be in a different application.


Here is a list of brands that I will generally look to when developing a design. I have used at least one model from each.
In no particular order;
AE
ATC
Beyma
B&C
BMS
Altec
Tannoy
JBL
18Sound
Faital Pro
EV
Peavey
PHL
Fountek
RCF
Mach 5
Emilar
Vifa (Danish)
TangBand
Eminence
SB Acoustics



There are probably others.
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post #8 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 04:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by eriksells916 View Post
@Mharper3 there is no question that you should build your own, especially if you can measure, cut, solder and paint.



I have some of the cheapest diy speakers available, the $100 c-note bookshelves from parts express. With my unprofessional ear, they sound better than both pairs of my $80 chinese speakers (surrounds and garage), my polk bookshelves in zone 2 and my $300 JBL Arena speakers. I am already looking to build 3 HTM speakers for my LCR.


Now, for subs, I got 2 of the jbl cs1214 subwoofers for $34 each after reading about them here in this forum. With some eq help and a simple box, they sound just as good as my $349 klipsch sub, which I have since returned. I am now working on dual end tables, an inuke and BR 2049 atmos bluray so I can finally shake the house!



Sites I have bookmarked for reference.



https://www.diysoundgroup.com/
https://www.parts-express.com/?gclid...gaAsfLEALw_wcB
https://meniscusaudio.com/
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/
https://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-measmt.htm
https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp




the rabbit hole is deep, enjoy!

That's awesome. I love to hear peoples experience with this stuff. It just seems so backwards coming into this. That's is such a huge price difference with that kind of quality.

I am still leaning towards Wavecor SW312WA03 12-1/4" right for subs. They are on the higher end. Unless someone talked me out of them. I've got a big room to fill so i'm leaning towards (4) 12s in the ceilind, down firing in sealed boxes. Possibly with passive radiators. (not sure how those work and how many I need.... still trying to work that out.) I've even considered (2) of their shallow mount subs in wall. I got a quote on some Triad in wall and ceiling speakers but I think I am definitely building my own subs. I'm so worried about going about this the wrong way and then end up spending a whole much more in the long run. Where I want to do these in the wall and in ceiling. I only want to do this once.
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post #9 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post
You're asking a big question, and it will depend on a specific driver. Just because brand A driver X is excellent, doesn't mean driver Y will be. But it may be in a different application.


Here is a list of brands that I will generally look to when developing a design. I have used at least one model from each.
In no particular order;
AE
ATC
Beyma
B&C
BMS
Altec
Tannoy
JBL
18Sound
Faital Pro
EV
Peavey
PHL
Fountek
RCF
Mach 5
Emilar
Vifa (Danish)
TangBand
Eminence
SB Acoustics



There are probably others.
Are there any our of that list you wouldn't use? Other than trial and error which is a pretty expensive way to figure out what you like how does someone come up with what's going to be good and what's not?
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post #10 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mharper3 View Post
Are there any our of that list you wouldn't use? Other than trial and error which is a pretty expensive way to figure out what you like how does someone come up with what's going to be good and what's not?
All of those companies make excellent drivers... It would be much easier to answer your questions about a specific project with a budget. With general questions you get general answers...
So your best bet would be to come up with a concrete plan for a project and the kind folks here will guide you in the proper direction...

Just like cars and trucks... we can't tell you which to get if we don't know what you are going to do with it or are trying to accomplish.... Are you a Jazz snob or a headbanger? They would need totally different systems.... Music only or a 60/40 split with HT? Need clean extension to 10 Hz?

You need to answer all of these types of questions for yourself and us so that we can give you the best advice possible...



Juju

Sub List: 1- Red Five Mini Devastator 18" w/460HO, 1- Red Five Devastator LFE 21", 1- BOSS platform [The Hideaway Theater], 1- 21" "Marty" tuned to 20hz, 1- 18" "Marty" tuned to 17Hz
Wish List: Anthology http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Anthology_1.html


Last edited by jujuman200; 12-09-2019 at 05:22 PM.
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post #11 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 05:28 PM
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Are there any our of that list you wouldn't use?
There would be 2000+ drivers in all those brands combined.



Quote:
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Other than trial and error which is a pretty expensive way to figure out what you like how does someone come up with what's going to be good and what's not?
Defining the project parameters carefully for a start. Then start researchiing on forums and the like for what particular driver might work well or not. This is 15D chess where everything trades off against everything else, so it takes experience, lots of trial and error, or best yet at your level of questioning, clone someone else's design. I'm not knocking you or your IQ, but I'd rather you sucessfully built a great speaker that's someone else's design, than spent forever and muchos pesos learning everything from scratch. And few will be willing to design it for you or hold your hand all the way through the process.
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post #12 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 05:31 PM
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It would be much easier to answer your questions about a specific project with a budget. With general questions you get general answers...
So your best bet would be to come up with a concrete plan for a project and the kind folks here will guide you in the proper direction...
Agreed.
Also size, LF extension and possibly sensitivity would be helpful.


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Are you a Jazz snob or a headbanger? They would need totally different systems....
No you don't.

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post #13 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 08:18 PM
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This is why I like the Tesla truck, because it can haul plywood and decapitate the people you leave in the dust as you accelerate like a Bugatti; and when the police try to shoot at you, you are bullet proof. (In a "hold my beer" kinda way... )

As a car-audio guy how could you not know of Deaf Bonce. Say huh?
EXO and Steve Meade both know that,
and even I do and I'm not car-audio anything...

An RF-19 and an SI-24 is at least 2-3x better than a JL, in both SPL and THD.
Both are substantially more expensive than $550 though...
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post #14 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 08:31 PM
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This is why I like the Tesla truck
I was lucky enough to be shown some early details of the design.

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@BassThatHz @A9X-308 I am just ROTFL
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post #16 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jujuman200
Are you a Jazz snob or a headbanger? They would need totally different systems....
No you don't.



Yes... I do know that you can play ANY type of music on any system.....


A pure Jazz snob is not listening to compression drivers and a silk dome tweeter will not recreate concert SPL without complaining....


I was referring to systems OPTIMIZED for a particular use....


Juju

Sub List: 1- Red Five Mini Devastator 18" w/460HO, 1- Red Five Devastator LFE 21", 1- BOSS platform [The Hideaway Theater], 1- 21" "Marty" tuned to 20hz, 1- 18" "Marty" tuned to 17Hz
Wish List: Anthology http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Anthology_1.html

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post #17 of 41 Old 12-09-2019, 10:27 PM - Thread Starter
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This is why I like the Tesla truck, because it can haul plywood and decapitate the people you leave in the dust as you accelerate like a Bugatti; and when the police try to shoot at you, you are bullet proof. (In a "hold my beer" kinda way... )

As a car-audio guy how could you not know of Deaf Bonce. Say huh?
EXO and Steve Meade both know that,
and even I do and I'm not car-audio anything...

An RF-19 and an SI-24 is at least 2-3x better than a JL, in both SPL and THD.
Both are substantially more expensive than $550 though...
Yeah.... I have no idea what RF-19 and SI-24 is. I literally spend half my time on forums trying learn all the damn acronyms everyone uses. And Deaf bounce.... not something sold in my market, never heard of them other than a YouTube video of some long haired hippy that was talking about them.
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post #18 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 01:05 AM
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I was referring to systems OPTIMIZED for a particular use...
Which you don't need to do if you design it properly and don't cut corners. Use the correct CD/WG properly implemented in a design, and at the modest levels that most domes can handle, most listeners would not be able to tell what sort of driver you were using. Turn it up and they will, as it will still sound good at levels well beyond what they're used to. I could not care a jot for somebody's opinion if they were the type who was Ï would only ever listen to this".

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Which you don't need to do if you design it properly and don't cut corners. Use the correct CD/WG properly implemented in a design.
Last time I checked, this is called OPTIMIZATION of a system..... thank you for making my point...



Juju

Sub List: 1- Red Five Mini Devastator 18" w/460HO, 1- Red Five Devastator LFE 21", 1- BOSS platform [The Hideaway Theater], 1- 21" "Marty" tuned to 20hz, 1- 18" "Marty" tuned to 17Hz
Wish List: Anthology http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Anthology_1.html

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post #20 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 09:37 AM
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we can't tell you which to get if we don't know what you are going to do with it or are trying to accomplish.... Are you a Jazz snob or a headbanger? They would need totally different systems....
This is what you started with.


My contention, based upon long experience is that you need no such thing. Without cutting corners, and using good design, you can have one system that plays everything well.


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Last time I checked, this is called OPTIMIZATION of a system..... thank you for making my point...
You clearly don't understand the point I was trying to make.

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post #21 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 09:44 AM
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You are doing it backwards, brands or components don't matter until you have specifications and a desigh FIRST

In car audio, it is much easier and generally speaking pretty hard to screw up (with subwoofers) because of massive cabin gain and you are very close to the drivers. Basically, you can just keep throwing more sealed drivers in boxes and throw more power until you either get physically sick, burn up the electrical system or blow the glass out of your car. Think about it--ever remove an amazing subwoofer setup out of a car and put it in a large room driven by a PA amp? Greatness goes to garbage quickly because you don't get much cabin gain (room gain) in large rooms and it don't matter if you have the best subs money can buy because you do have electrical limits depending on your wall breakers.

Another way to look at it--go to a rock concert, nigh clubs and so on. Look at the designs of the subwoofer systems--notice they have nothing to do with car audio and you won't see car audio drivers/designs (usually) seen in pro sound systems. Home audio resembles pro sound audio more than it does car audio (or headphones for that matter) Sound is energy and it follows many of the same "rules" that light, magnetism and other energies follow so the more you learn how that works, the better your design or expected performance will be.

You do have some benefits over car audo when dealing with home audio--you have more space! You also can place the speakers in their proper position for better audio quality than where they fit in a car. Once you look at the designs of pro sound, learn about why they are used and ponder if any of those reasons for the designs apply to your wants/needs. Two 21 inch subs in a 500 pound tapped horn might do it for you--if you run two or four of them You won't be able to fit one of those in a car--maybe a moving van but now you have options available to you that you would not have in car audio. Be aware that throwing money at a problem might do well in car audio (to a point) but when moving away from sealed boxes that depend on massive cabin gain--the design becomes critical and not an after thought. More Xmax, more power, larger subs and so on can work but a better design beats a more epensive driver at the start.

For example, there is an AVS'ers that wanted "mid-bass modules" or kick subs that produce high SPL in the roughly 50 to 160 Hz range. His system runs over $100,000 so cost was not much of a concern but the design was. He used sixteen 18 inch PA woofers, eight per side in opposed sealed configuration while his massive subs did below 40 or 50 Hz. Those 18 inch PA drivers cost 90 dollars each, the reason he spec'd them was they fit the design demands. Sure, he could of went with $600 PA drivers but that would allow 160dB of output instead of 150+ dB. He would also need more power to drive 16 of them hard enough to get that performance. His home theater is what would normally be called "bunker construction" because the limits of the structure then come into play as you can damage buildings with sound.

If your idea iabout audio is throwing more money at it gives you beteer sound--time to learn about audio! Some drivers won't work no matter how much they cost because there are "rules" and plysical/electrical limits to drivers dictated by physics. Look at Steve Meades "towers" he built--very,very expesive drivers in an array with pricey pro amps. Looks impressive, very expensive drivers, no expense spared---but the design is flawed right at the start. He could replace the drivers and spend $50,000 in replacements but it wil never sound good because the design is flawed. This is the trap you don't want to get stuck in. The way to avoid that is to learn about various speaker designs, learn WHY they are designed that way, what they do well and what they can't do. All spaker designs are compromises so you pick the design that is the least compromised for what you want it to do. You need to learn all the jibeer-jasbber tech speak to define what you want in jibber--jabber speak then we can help you with designs that would fit your needs. Aaways specifiy space limits, weight limits, tool limits, skill limits and so on before asking. No point in us wasting our time recommending an iPAL driver in a modified horn if you don't have the saace, skills, budget or ability to physically move such a monster.

Once you learn about speaker specs, how to read the charts/graphs of speaker drivers--then you will know what works and what won't without askig questions. You will know that a $2,000 B&C 21" iPAL should not be mixed with a $1,000 RAAL ribbon tweeter even if you use the most expensiv crossover parts or active amplifiers. You can build a speaker with $1,000 plus pro sound drivers, JBL, B&C and Radian make them s you can--a you can thrw a BE dome tweeter with it---you can but would the desigh nake sense? A sign of a good engineering design is to eliminate waste. Wasting money on drivers or components that don't improve the design or real world sound quality is the mark of a bad design. Nothing worse than the feeling in your gut that after $1,000 in parts, dozens of hours of time spent that your measuring microphone and your ears indicate that your $250 basic speakers beat your creation. That is part of the hobby, they call it "making firewood" so pull the drivers out and burn the box. Time to start over with a clean sheet, learn why your design failed and what would of been a better design. If you have a fear of failure, then DIY speakers are not for you! If you don't ever fail with DIY means you should try harder! My oddites I build always have a revision number---my HT sub is Revision 4 and my line arrays in the garage are Revision 3.1. It is a learning process and I wish just throwing money at it or purchasing the most expensive components would of worked--it would of saved me a ton of time! On the positive side I have become much better at woodworking. At least I have some very expensive bonfires...

Think of it as a car analogy--it don't matter what car you want if you are not allowed to drive on public roads. You have to learn to drawl, walk and run before you can enter marathons. This is the critical "hobby" part of DIY, learning acoustics, driver design, speaker design and so on before you ever start to spec drivers. Some designs have requirements for the drivers, horn loading is one of them. It don't matter what it costs if it won't fit the design. There are thousands of speaker drivers available so it is up to you to learn at least the basics to help you narrow it down to something that will work properly with your demands, size constraints and so on. We can help you with the pros/cons of the final 2 or 3 drivers you select. Don't be one of those lunatics that purchase the most expensive drivers then ask for design help AFTER they purchase the drivers! That has happened, the drivers won't work together right at the start which really puts a damper on starting off in this hobby.

Good luck in your quest--time to learn about how all this stuff works and find the right design for your wants/needs, your room size, your listening distance and the amount of people that will be listening. It is better to get drivers that match your designs than to get the driver first then attempt to find a design that gives you the performance you want. I've done it both ways, a better design beats more epensive drivers so it is better to grasp the pebble first. Enjoy!
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post #22 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 10:11 AM
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If you want to get up to speed with some of the woofers used in the DIY world, start here: https://data-bass.com/#/?_k=jozff9
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post #23 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 10:17 AM
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That's awesome. I love to hear peoples experience with this stuff. It just seems so backwards coming into this. That's is such a huge price difference with that kind of quality.

I am still leaning towards Wavecor SW312WA03 12-1/4" right for subs. They are on the higher end. Unless someone talked me out of them. I've got a big room to fill so i'm leaning towards (4) 12s in the ceilind, down firing in sealed boxes. Possibly with passive radiators. (not sure how those work and how many I need.... still trying to work that out.) I've even considered (2) of their shallow mount subs in wall. I got a quote on some Triad in wall and ceiling speakers but I think I am definitely building my own subs. I'm so worried about going about this the wrong way and then end up spending a whole much more in the long run. Where I want to do these in the wall and in ceiling. I only want to do this once.
Honestly, there is nothing those Wavecors do that an 18" won't do better (and for less $$). Those higher end subs are typically used as the bottom end of a three way speaker, so they might be playing up to 300-400hz. Don't get me wrong, they are excellent excellent drivers. Those subs will play loud, and will super low inductance, super low distortion, etc. This matters much more above 100hz then below.

But, for pure subwoofer duty, you would be better served with 2-4 18" Dayton Ultimax or 18" LaVoce in a Mini-Devastator (ask @redfive !!) if space allows, and these are much more cost effective than the Wavecor drivers as far as power handling and xmax and SPL.

This is a really fun place to learn, with lots of helpful folks.
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post #24 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Honestly, there is nothing those Wavecors do that an 18" won't do better (and for less $$). Those higher end subs are typically used as the bottom end of a three way speaker, so they might be playing up to 300-400hz. Don't get me wrong, they are excellent excellent drivers. Those subs will play loud, and will super low inductance, super low distortion, etc. This matters much more above 100hz then below.

But, for pure subwoofer duty, you would be better served with 2-4 18" Dayton Ultimax or 18" LaVoce in a Mini-Devastator (ask @redfive !!) if space allows, and these are much more cost effective than the Wavecor drivers as far as power handling and xmax and SPL.

This is a really fun place to learn, with lots of helpful folks.

This is a really fun place to learn, with lots of helpful folks.[/QUOTE]

So my plan is to put these down firing in between i-joist in the ceiling. I can go a 16” tall I joist at 19” on center. So I do have some size restrictions unless I place the, on top of the floor joist and then figure out how to bent it down through the I joist. Otherwise 12” sub is probably going to be as big as I can fit, unless we can come up with other designs.
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post #25 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 02:31 PM
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So my plan is to put these down firing in between i-joist in the ceiling...12” sub is probably going to be as big as I can fit, unless we can come up with other designs.


You have to think outside the box.



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post #26 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 02:52 PM
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That's the spirit! Nice @Augerhandle
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post #27 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 08:00 PM
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You have to think outside the box.



Beat me to it.


And Mharper, if you use 2 drivers/enclosure and mount them push-pull, then you'll eliminate almost all of the vibration that could otherwise be channeled into the structure of your house.
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post #28 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Beat me to it.


And Mharper, if you use 2 drivers/enclosure and mount them push-pull, then you'll eliminate almost all of the vibration that could otherwise be channeled into the structure of your house.
I’ve seen people mount speakers that way in car audio applications but never messed with it. Do you wire the speakers differently than normal? I think that application could totally work.
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post #29 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 08:50 PM
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Do you wire the speakers differently than normal?
The cones must move in, then out of the manifold together.



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I think that application could totally work.
It's been done many, many times.

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post #30 of 41 Old 12-10-2019, 09:32 PM
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I’ve seen people mount speakers that way in car audio applications but never messed with it. Do you wire the speakers differently than normal? I think that application could totally work.
Totally.

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