You are doing it backwards, brands or components don't matter until you have specifications and a desigh FIRST
In car audio, it is much easier and generally speaking pretty hard to screw up (with subwoofers) because of massive cabin gain and you are very close to the drivers. Basically, you can just keep throwing more sealed drivers in boxes and throw more power until you either get physically sick, burn up the electrical system or blow the glass out of your car. Think about it--ever remove an amazing subwoofer setup out of a car and put it in a large room driven by a PA amp? Greatness goes to garbage quickly because you don't get much cabin gain (room gain) in large rooms and it don't matter if you have the best subs money can buy because you do have electrical limits depending on your wall breakers.
Another way to look at it--go to a rock concert, nigh clubs and so on. Look at the designs of the subwoofer systems--notice they have nothing to do with car audio and you won't see car audio drivers/designs (usually) seen in pro sound systems. Home audio resembles pro sound audio more than it does car audio (or headphones for that matter) Sound is energy and it follows many of the same "rules" that light, magnetism and other energies follow so the more you learn how that works, the better your design or expected performance will be.
You do have some benefits over car audo when dealing with home audio--you have more space! You also can place the speakers in their proper position for better audio quality than where they fit in a car. Once you look at the designs of pro sound, learn about why they are used and ponder if any of those reasons for the designs apply to your wants/needs. Two 21 inch subs in a 500 pound tapped horn might do it for you--if you run two or four of them
You won't be able to fit one of those in a car--maybe a moving van but now you have options available to you that you would not have in car audio. Be aware that throwing money at a problem might do well in car audio (to a point) but when moving away from sealed boxes that depend on massive cabin gain--the design becomes critical and not an after thought. More Xmax, more power, larger subs and so on can work but a better design beats a more epensive driver at the start.
For example, there is an AVS'ers that wanted "mid-bass modules" or kick subs that produce high SPL in the roughly 50 to 160 Hz range. His system runs over $100,000 so cost was not much of a concern but the design was. He used sixteen 18 inch PA woofers, eight per side in opposed sealed configuration while his massive subs did below 40 or 50 Hz. Those 18 inch PA drivers cost 90 dollars each, the reason he spec'd them was they fit the design demands. Sure, he could of went with $600 PA drivers but that would allow 160dB of output instead of 150+ dB. He would also need more power to drive 16 of them hard enough to get that performance. His home theater is what would normally be called "bunker construction" because the limits of the structure then come into play as you can damage buildings with sound.
If your idea iabout audio is throwing more money at it gives you beteer sound--time to learn about audio! Some drivers won't work no matter how much they cost because there are "rules" and plysical/electrical limits to drivers dictated by physics. Look at Steve Meades "towers" he built--very,very expesive drivers in an array with pricey pro amps. Looks impressive, very expensive drivers, no expense spared---but the design is flawed right at the start. He could replace the drivers and spend $50,000 in replacements but it wil never sound good because the design is flawed. This is the trap you don't want to get stuck in. The way to avoid that is to learn about various speaker designs, learn WHY they are designed that way, what they do well and what they can't do. All spaker designs are compromises so you pick the design that is the least compromised for what you want it to do. You need to learn all the jibeer-jasbber tech speak to define what you want in jibber--jabber speak then we can help you with designs that would fit your needs. Aaways specifiy space limits, weight limits, tool limits, skill limits and so on before asking. No point in us wasting our time recommending an iPAL driver in a modified horn if you don't have the saace, skills, budget or ability to physically move such a monster.
Once you learn about speaker specs, how to read the charts/graphs of speaker drivers--then you will know what works and what won't without askig questions. You will know that a $2,000 B&C 21" iPAL should not be mixed with a $1,000 RAAL ribbon tweeter even if you use the most expensiv crossover parts or active amplifiers. You can build a speaker with $1,000 plus pro sound drivers, JBL, B&C and Radian make them s you can--a you can thrw a BE dome tweeter with it---you can but would the desigh nake sense? A sign of a good engineering design is to eliminate waste. Wasting money on drivers or components that don't improve the design or real world sound quality is the mark of a bad design. Nothing worse than the feeling in your gut that after $1,000 in parts, dozens of hours of time spent that your measuring microphone and your ears indicate that your $250 basic speakers beat your creation. That is part of the hobby, they call it "making firewood" so pull the drivers out and burn the box. Time to start over with a clean sheet, learn why your design failed and what would of been a better design. If you have a fear of failure, then DIY speakers are not for you!
If you don't ever fail with DIY means you should try harder! My oddites I build always have a revision number---my HT sub is Revision 4 and my line arrays in the garage are Revision 3.1. It is a learning process and I wish just throwing money at it or purchasing the most expensive components would of worked--it would of saved me a ton of time! On the positive side I have become much better at woodworking. At least I have some very expensive bonfires...
Think of it as a car analogy--it don't matter what car you want if you are not allowed to drive on public roads. You have to learn to drawl, walk and run before you can enter marathons. This is the critical "hobby" part of DIY, learning acoustics, driver design, speaker design and so on before you ever start to spec drivers. Some designs have requirements for the drivers, horn loading is one of them. It don't matter what it costs if it won't fit the design. There are thousands of speaker drivers available so it is up to you to learn at least the basics to help you narrow it down to something that will work properly with your demands, size constraints and so on. We can help you with the pros/cons of the final 2 or 3 drivers you select. Don't be one of those lunatics that purchase the most expensive drivers then ask for design help AFTER they purchase the drivers!
That has happened, the drivers won't work together right at the start which really puts a damper on starting off in this hobby.
Good luck in your quest--time to learn about how all this stuff works and find the right design for your wants/needs, your room size, your listening distance and the amount of people that will be listening. It is better to get drivers that match your designs than to get the driver first then attempt to find a design that gives you the performance you want. I've done it both ways, a better design beats more epensive drivers so it is better to grasp the pebble first. Enjoy!