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post #1 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Another Titan 615LX Build Thread - with Questions

Hey everyone,

Been a member for close to 8 years and posted ~20x. Essentially, I lurk and read what those far smarter than me have posted. I am however creating my first thread and have a couple questions. I have started building three Titan 615LX speakers for my front stage to go behind a 120-135" projector screen (haven't decided which). I must first say that the packaging from DIY Soundgroup is truly second to none. All the wood and components arrived safely, unharmed and cut perfectly.

I do plan to finish the speakers with Black Duratex, rolling it on. I think two coats should be proficient from reading all the threads and Duratex's cheat sheet.

Quick shout out to some of the previous build threads (no particular order) that were awesome to follow:

Definitely Matt Grant at HifiCircuit and Erich H for answering all my questions.

@VicTorious1
@strawberry
@kaiforce
@Nahkarankaisija
@pnhayden

Here are a few pics to get everyone up to speed on where I am.
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Last edited by 1slowfrc; 12-15-2019 at 12:23 PM.
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post #2 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Denim

Here are a few pics of the denim installation with the glue I used.
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post #3 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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QUESTIONS for the pros

I have completed my first round of sanding and found a couple errors I made in the gluing process. I attached a couple pictures that show some poorly clamped edges and my questions are as follows:

1. Should I use the recommended 50/50 glue and water mixture to help "seal" these joints? Should I do so on all the joints? Is it necessary, or am I just being paranoid?
a. I do plan to use the compound below to hide these edges prior to painting.
2. I planned to use the drywall/joint compound in the picture attached below to hide all the edges. I do plan on using Duratex to finish. Is this joint compound okay to use? I did a bunch of searches and couldn't find any recommendations on what to use or more specifically, what NOT to use.

One quick aside, for those looking at the super uneven edges on the bottom of the box, I highly recommend using a router and a flush trim bit vs. sanding. I sanded... needless to say it took some time!!

Please be kind with your responses as I am no pro and am merely asking for help after researching this for hours on end.
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post #4 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:19 PM
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F the speakers, what's with the Maro in the background?!
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post #5 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
I have completed my first round of sanding and found a couple errors I made in the gluing process. I attached a couple pictures that show some poorly clamped edges and my questions are as follows:

1. Should I use the recommended 50/50 glue and water mixture to help "seal" these joints? Should I do so on all the joints? Is it necessary, or am I just being paranoid?
a. I do plan to use the compound below to hide these edges prior to painting.
2. I planned to use the drywall/joint compound in the picture attached below to hide all the edges. I should have mentioned this earlier, but I do plan to use duratex to finish all the boxes. Is this joint compound okay to use? I did a bunch of searches and couldn't find any recommendations on what to use or more specifically, what NOT to use.

One quick aside, for those looking at the super uneven edges on the bottom of the box, I highly recommend using a router and a flush trim bit vs. sanding. I sanded... needless to say it took some time!!

Please be kind with your responses as I am no pro and am merely asking for help after researching this for hours on end.

You could use drywall joint compound, but I use a lightweight polyester autobody filler. Keep in mind that any solution is going to be dusty, very dusty. A long flat board sanding block will help you out in achieving good looking joints in conjunction with an appropriate filler.



180 grit is fine enough for your duratex finish if you are rolling it.
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post #6 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kothoga View Post
F the speakers, what's with the Maro in the background?!
Haha, that has been a 6 year build from the bottom up. It's a black hole of money, blood and time...
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post #7 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
You could use drywall joint compound, but I use a lightweight polyester autobody filler. Keep in mind that any solution is going to be dusty, very dusty. A long flat board sanding block will help you out in achieving good looking joints in conjunction with an appropriate filler.



180 grit is fine enough for your duratex finish if you are rolling it.
Thank you for the recommendation. I did some research on auto body filler and Bondo specifically, but most people said it was a PAIN to sand and ended up using joint compound. I have never used either, just researched both.

Do you hand sand it or use a Random Orbital Sander. I have plenty of 180 sandpaper so that isn't an issue. Also did you use 50/50 water glue before hand or is one or the other?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
Haha, that has been a 6 year build from the bottom up. It's a black hole of money, blood and time...
They always are! I've done a few Vettes, wife had enough so I bought a C7Z. Best of luck on the Titans and the SS.

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post #9 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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They always are! I've done a few Vettes, wife had enough so I bought a C7Z. Best of luck on the Titans and the SS.
Done 4 vettes, hence the name 1slowFRC... will probably sell the 'maro in the spring and look at the 2020 mid-engine options. Thanks for the kind words. I am very confident I am in the right place to receive some good advice. Everyone here is pretty awesome and I unfortunately I don't have much to add to many threads. Good reads though.
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post #10 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
Done 4 vettes, hence the name 1slowFRC... will probably sell the 'maro in the spring and look at the 2020 mid-engine options. Thanks for the kind words. I am very confident I am in the right place to receive some good advice. Everyone here is pretty awesome and I unfortunately I don't have much to add to many threads. Good reads though.
Yeah, know the feeling. Just bought a large Tuff Shed to use as a woodworking space, evidently I needed a new expensive hobby. As for the C8, waiting for the Z06 version before I make the jump, but yes, I'll go to a mid-engine ASAP too.

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2 Channel: Parasound P6, Parasound A23+, Rega Planar 6 with Ortofon 2M Bronze, Klispch La Scala II, Behringer NX6000D, B&C 21DS115-4 powered Devastator V1 x2.
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post #11 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
Thank you for the recommendation. I did some research on auto body filler and Bondo specifically, but most people said it was a PAIN to sand and ended up using joint compound. I have never used either, just researched both.

Do you hand sand it or use a Random Orbital Sander. I have plenty of 180 sandpaper so that isn't an issue. Also did you use 50/50 water glue before hand or is one or the other?

Body filler can be a pain to sand if:



( 1 ) you use cheap filler instead of a premium filler

( 2 ) using the wrong grit and type of sandpaper - Garnet / flint sandpaper is not suggested

( 3 ) expecting instant gratification


If you mix and apply the filler properly, it will make finishing work a lot easier. * a thin application with a good quality applicator. ( I prefer a metal wallpaper scraper instead of a plastic applicator )


Hand sand the filler with P80 grit, then finish in P180. Use a long block and long strokes to keep the surface flat.



Buy your supplies at an autobody shop, Pep Boys, etc, not at Walmart.
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post #12 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by michael hurd View Post
Body filler can be a pain to sand if:



( 1 ) you use cheap filler instead of a premium filler

( 2 ) using the wrong grit and type of sandpaper - Garnet / flint sandpaper is not suggested

( 3 ) expecting instant gratification


If you mix and apply the filler properly, it will make finishing work a lot easier. * a thin application with a good quality applicator. ( I prefer a metal wallpaper scraper instead of a plastic applicator )


Hand sand the filler with P80 grit, then finish in P180. Use a long block and long strokes to keep the surface flat.



Buy your supplies at an autobody shop, Pep Boys, etc, not at Walmart.

Good advice. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Looks like Auto Body Filler is the weapon of choice!

Any need to use the water and glue mixture prior to?
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post #13 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
Good advice. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Looks like Auto Body Filler is the weapon of choice!

Any need to use the water and glue mixture prior to?

No.

Ask your doctor if DIY is right for you. Side effects of DIY may include anxiety, elevated blood pressure, lightheadedness, rapid heartbeat, skeletal muscle flaccidity, euphoria, psychological dependence, insomnia, confusion, blurred vision, impulsivity, uncontrolled or repeated movements.
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post #14 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
I have completed my first round of sanding and found a couple errors I made in the gluing process. I attached a couple pictures that show some poorly clamped edges and my questions are as follows:

1. Should I use the recommended 50/50 glue and water mixture to help "seal" these joints? Should I do so on all the joints? Is it necessary, or am I just being paranoid?
a. I do plan to use the compound below to hide these edges prior to painting.
2. I planned to use the drywall/joint compound in the picture attached below to hide all the edges. I do plan on using Duratex to finish. Is this joint compound okay to use? I did a bunch of searches and couldn't find any recommendations on what to use or more specifically, what NOT to use.

One quick aside, for those looking at the super uneven edges on the bottom of the box, I highly recommend using a router and a flush trim bit vs. sanding. I sanded... needless to say it took some time!!

Please be kind with your responses as I am no pro and am merely asking for help after researching this for hours on end.
No pro here but I do live very close to the Duratex HQ and chat with the nice folks there when I pick up my product. One of the tips they gave is that some types of fillers do not bond well with Duratex. The only filler they endorse is the Elmers Carpenter’s Color Change Wood Filler, in fact they sell it in their showroom. I have no idea how other types of fillers mentioned bond with Duratex, but the Elmers stuff they recommended works like a charm.
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I'd use a power sander to get all the panels flush, then use some wood filler on any cracks. Or you could just mix saw dust with wood glue until it's thick and then squish that into the cracks.

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post #16 of 37 Old 12-15-2019, 06:59 PM
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Those CCWs look sharp. Good combo.
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Yeah just use wood filler especially for a small joint like that, easy application, easy cleanup. You're not going for an automotive gloss finish on the speakers so there is no need to use a messy/stinky two part auto body filler.
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post #18 of 37 Old 12-16-2019, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you to everyone for the replies so far. I did go ahead and pick up some autobody filler ha. I think I'll give it a try and see how it turns out. If it's just an extra day of labor I might as well go for it and get acclimated to using it for my next builds. I probably should have waited for a consensus from everyone, but am excited to see how the bondo product works and the final product. I guess I don't mind sanding too much

I'll update with pictures hopefully this weekend if I get time.
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I had similar cracks in my boxes and just filled them with glue and sanded accordingly. I only recommend that if you're going to roll on duratex. A thick layer of duratex hides so much. I wouldn't spend too much time worrying

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Bondo Application

Well, since I had already gone ahead and purchased the bondo for the seams, I decided to use it. Not sure I'm the best at applying it, but hopefully it turns out okay. Really just hoping duratex hides my feeble attempt at applying it evenly.

As promised, pictures below. Will start sanding this evening...wish me luck!!

As an aside, these are the initial applications. I do think I got "slightly" better as I did the rest of the cabinets haha.
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Just finished sanding!! Super easy and not near as painful as I thought it would be. Used 80 grit on a long block to start then finished with 150 grit. Couldn’t find my 180 roll for some reason. Here’s a couple pics.

Need to finish the waveguide portion tomorrow and hopefully first coat of paint.
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post #22 of 37 Old 12-20-2019, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Question for those that have done DIY builds...did y’all use speaker feet?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
Question for those that have done DIY builds...did y’all use speaker feet?
With the speakers sitting on what?

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post #24 of 37 Old 12-21-2019, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slowfrc View Post
Question for those that have done DIY builds...did y’️all use speaker feet?
With the speakers sitting on what?
Carpet.
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post #25 of 37 Old 12-21-2019, 12:26 PM
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Just finished sanding!! Super easy and not near as painful as I thought it would be. Used 80 grit on a long block to start then finished with 150 grit. Couldn’t find my 180 roll for some reason. Here’s a couple pics.

Need to finish the waveguide portion tomorrow and hopefully first coat of paint.

Looks decent, though there may be one or two spots that may need a tad bit more sanding. Don't worry, when you put on a coat of Duratex, and you can see any flaws, just give the Duratex 1/2 hour or so to dry, give it a light hand sanding down with P180 or P220 on a block, wipe off the dust and re-coat.

Ask your doctor if DIY is right for you. Side effects of DIY may include anxiety, elevated blood pressure, lightheadedness, rapid heartbeat, skeletal muscle flaccidity, euphoria, psychological dependence, insomnia, confusion, blurred vision, impulsivity, uncontrolled or repeated movements.
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post #26 of 37 Old 12-21-2019, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks decent, though there may be one or two spots that may need a tad bit more sanding. Don't worry, when you put on a coat of Duratex, and you can see any flaws, just give the Duratex 1/2 hour or so to dry, give it a light hand sanding down with P180 or P220 on a block, wipe off the dust and re-coat.
Will do! Thanks for the tip. Applied the first coat of Duratex about an hour ago. Have a few chores to complete and will hopefully get some time to light sand this evening and apply second coat tomorrow am. Here are a few pics.
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post #27 of 37 Old 12-21-2019, 04:35 PM
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Carpet.
I can't imagine needing feet on the Titans if they are sitting on carpet. Unless they start walking when really pushed.

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post #28 of 37 Old 12-22-2019, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Second coat of Duratex and awful soldering skills

This is why you buy the pre-built XOs lol
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post #29 of 37 Old 12-22-2019, 10:52 PM
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This is why you buy the pre-built XOs lol


The cabinets look good, nice work.

That looks like a cold solder joint. What kind of soldering iron are you using? If you can turn up the power it may help, more flux may help, different solder may help, or simply giving the joint more time to heat. A new iron may help if you are using something really crappy. I like a hot soldering iron so I can heat the joint quickly, solder it, and move on before it’s heats much of the surrounding components.
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post #30 of 37 Old 12-23-2019, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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The cabinets look good, nice work.

That looks like a cold solder joint. What kind of soldering iron are you using? If you can turn up the power it may help, more flux may help, different solder may help, or simply giving the joint more time to heat. A new iron may help if you are using something really crappy. I like a hot soldering iron so I can heat the joint quickly, solder it, and move on before it’s heats much of the surrounding components.

I probably need a better soldering iron. Mine was a struggle to use with my wife holding the wire and terminal. I also will freely admit, I am not the best at soldering.
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