I have a Scan Speak Revelator 28W/4878T00 and decided I would attempt building an enclosure and see how it would work in a car. I read plenty about how subwoofers designed for cars are not optimal for home but don’t know why a home designed subwoofer wouldn’t work well in a car.
It’s been awhile since I built a DIY speaker but I plan to get around to building a pair of nice 2 channel speakers or monitors in the next year or so.
For now I have been playing with building a stealth subwoofer enclosure for a 2016 BMW X6 F16. I’ll hold off on installing anything until late February after my warranty expires but started building the enclosure.
There is a hidden storage compartment in the back where a spare could be stored but I have run flats and have never used the space for anything. I have researched other installs and the light honeycomb cover doesn’t seem to block much if any bass from reaching the front cabin. With the cover down no one would ever know there was a subwoofer in the car. I would probably have to remove the WeatherTech cargo liner to help the subwoofer breath. This is a shallow space and most choose to use a shallow mount driver like the JL Audio 10TW3-D4 or 12TW3-D4.
Some remove the liner but I opted to leave it in. My job would have been easier if I took it out. The goal was to get as close to 1.5 cubic feet sealed while leaving enough room for at least one amplifier. I plan on replacing the stock amps, front door mids and tweeters as well as the underseat woofers. There is also a lot of room where the stock amp is.
Madisound recommends a 1.5 cubic foot sealed enclosure for the 28W but says anything over 1 cu. ft. is acceptable. I am too lazy to do the math but I guess I ended up with around 1.3. I'll add plenty of stuffing. I was able to get 1 inch of clearance on the high side of the magnet but since the top slopes, a bit less on the low side.
I think I am close. I may need to sand down a few areas to make sure the enclosure doesn't touch any of the metal frame or secure it to the frame to minimize rattles. I was pretty nervous testing the first fit and needed to take some material off the back high end. A one inch round router bit did the trick. I may take it down a bit more with a sander. No issue since the top is a 1 1/2 inch MDF/Baltic birch sandwich. For some reason the high end doesn't fit flush to the floor. I cut the measurements extremely tight, pun intended.
Most choose to finish the enclosure with carpet that matches the cargo carpet but I’ve never tried that before and will need to research how to do it or just paint it a matching color.