Theater Build FINALLY Moving Forward (Titan 630LX, SHS-24, HTM-10, Volt 10...) - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 44 Old 02-09-2020, 09:38 AM
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Where’s a link to your sub box build?
That’s going to be a great system and the speakers will outlast all of the other gear for many many years. Great work and wonderful ideas.


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post #32 of 44 Old 02-09-2020, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hessc50 View Post
Where’s a link to your sub box build?
That’s going to be a great system and the speakers will outlast all of the other gear for many many years. Great work and wonderful ideas.


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Should have the CNC'd panels any day now from my cabinet guy. He's been promising them for several weeks... I'll post pics of the build here.
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post #33 of 44 Old 02-09-2020, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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While drawing out my projector box design, I decided to go with a hush box and add a 4" inline fan to get the heat out of the box and room. There is no return for the basement's HVAC loop in my theater room, just two supplies, so I thought I'd make use of an unused 4" duct that we ran during construction that was supposed to be for the equipment room (it kept overheating, so I added a ductless minisplit just for the equipment room). I'm going to tap into that 4" ducting in the equipment room, install an AC Infinity S4 inline fan on the ceiling of the equipment room, and then feed a new 4" duct through the soffit to the top of the hush box. In the pic you can see the hole where the flange will attach at the upper front of the hush box.

I rigged up a small relay box with a 120V > 12V power supply that powers a time delay relay. The logic is: JVC NX7 projector's 12V trigger powers on/off with the projector, turn projector off and the 12V trigger turns the relay and duct fan off, but the time delay on the relay will keep the power outlet for the fan hot for another 15 min to evacuate all of the hot air. Built and tested today and it works perfectly.

The hush box is going to hang from the ceiling in the back of the theater. I built a mounting plate with cutouts for the AV conduit box, 4-gang power outlet and the 4" ducting. Went to attach it to the ceiling last night and found out that my drywall guys are complete garbage - the ceiling had a bow of over 1/2" so the mounting plate wouldn't lay flush!!! Still fuming...... Not sure what I'm going to do, but it might involve brute force, hoping that it doesn't F up the drywall finish on the ceiling... (there's a big piece of 3/4" ply above the drywall mounted to the soffit framing).

Right now I'm building the lower box that will slip over the mounting plate's flange and attach to it with some #8 screws. As soon as the lower box is done and ready for paint I'll try getting that mounting plate mounted up. The back of the hush box is going to be held on with magnets and have a perforated aluminum grill to allow fresh air to be pulled through the hush box.
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post #34 of 44 Old 02-11-2020, 06:30 AM
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Sub'd. Looks fantastic.

You mentioned 240v for amps, what benefit does that provide?

Do you just get a breaker that spans both sub panel channels?

What outlets?

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post #35 of 44 Old 02-11-2020, 01:45 PM
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Sometimes I'm just in awe of the great ideas and the application of knowledge and skills in here to solve specific problems. That inline fan solution looks so clean and perfect in its execution. Very impressive.
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post #36 of 44 Old 02-11-2020, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBLV View Post
While drawing out my projector box design, I decided to go with a hush box and add a 4" inline fan to get the heat out of the box and room. There is no return for the basement's HVAC loop in my theater room, just two supplies, so I thought I'd make use of an unused 4" duct that we ran during construction that was supposed to be for the equipment room (it kept overheating, so I added a ductless minisplit just for the equipment room). I'm going to tap into that 4" ducting in the equipment room, install an AC Infinity S4 inline fan on the ceiling of the equipment room, and then feed a new 4" duct through the soffit to the top of the hush box. In the pic you can see the hole where the flange will attach at the upper front of the hush box.

I rigged up a small relay box with a 120V > 12V power supply that powers a time delay relay. The logic is: JVC NX7 projector's 12V trigger powers on/off with the projector, turn projector off and the 12V trigger turns the relay and duct fan off, but the time delay on the relay will keep the power outlet for the fan hot for another 15 min to evacuate all of the hot air. Built and tested today and it works perfectly.

The hush box is going to hang from the ceiling in the back of the theater. I built a mounting plate with cutouts for the AV conduit box, 4-gang power outlet and the 4" ducting. Went to attach it to the ceiling last night and found out that my drywall guys are complete garbage - the ceiling had a bow of over 1/2" so the mounting plate wouldn't lay flush!!! Still fuming...... Not sure what I'm going to do, but it might involve brute force, hoping that it doesn't F up the drywall finish on the ceiling... (there's a big piece of 3/4" ply above the drywall mounted to the soffit framing).

Right now I'm building the lower box that will slip over the mounting plate's flange and attach to it with some #8 screws. As soon as the lower box is done and ready for paint I'll try getting that mounting plate mounted up. The back of the hush box is going to be held on with magnets and have a perforated aluminum grill to allow fresh air to be pulled through the hush box.
The problem would not be from the drywall guys. The drywall conforms to the framing. So if you have a bow in the ceiling, it is the framing guy or framing material, that you should be upset with, not the drywall guys. Only way it can be the drywall guys is if they completely missed fastening to several joists and I doubt that happened. But if that did happen, you would be able to push the drywall back up, using a "T" brace and fasten it to the joists.
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post #37 of 44 Old 02-11-2020, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
The problem would not be from the drywall guys. The drywall conforms to the framing. So if you have a bow in the ceiling, it is the framing guy or framing material, that you should be upset with, not the drywall guys. Only way it can be the drywall guys is if they completely missed fastening to several joists and I doubt that happened. But if that did happen, you would be able to push the drywall back up, using a "T" brace and fasten it to the joists.
I think you're right. Waiting for my contractor to come by and see what we can do to fix it.

BTW they framed the soffit with metal studs. Hoping that doesn't come back to bite me... The columns and screen wall are wood.

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post #38 of 44 Old 02-12-2020, 10:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post
Sub'd. Looks fantastic.

You mentioned 240v for amps, what benefit does that provide?

Do you just get a breaker that spans both sub panel channels?

What outlets?
The Emotiva amps run more efficiently and the Speakerpower amp is 240V only. Here are some pics of the power outlets, dedicated HT rack subpanel and power cable construction. Overkill everything: 10g cryo-treated power cable for the SP amp and 12g cryo-treated power cables for the Emotiva amps.
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post #39 of 44 Old 02-12-2020, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
The problem would not be from the drywall guys. The drywall conforms to the framing. So if you have a bow in the ceiling, it is the framing guy or framing material, that you should be upset with, not the drywall guys. Only way it can be the drywall guys is if they completely missed fastening to several joists and I doubt that happened. But if that did happen, you would be able to push the drywall back up, using a "T" brace and fasten it to the joists.
This morning we cut open the drywall in the ceiling and found that the drywallers went right over a low-voltage box that stuck down about 1/2". Trimmed the box back to flush and drywallers are repairing the drywall as we speak. Back on track!
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post #40 of 44 Old 02-12-2020, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBLV View Post
This morning we cut open the drywall in the ceiling and found that the drywallers went right over a low-voltage box that stuck down about 1/2". Trimmed the box back to flush and drywallers are repairing the drywall as we speak. Back on track!
I assumed you had accounted for all the boxes.
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post #41 of 44 Old 02-14-2020, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Well well well.... Look what just arrived fresh off the CNC. Going to be a long weekend gluing up in the garage!!
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post #42 of 44 Old 02-18-2020, 04:06 PM
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Love this thread. Do you have a full build thread somewhere too?

It looks like your HT-10s for surround duty are all going into columns. I would love to know your column dimensions as that is exactly what I'm planning (if I can spare the 8" deep column space vs. putting in in-walls). What is your overall room dimension?

Thanks!
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post #43 of 44 Old 02-19-2020, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Making some slow progress. I only have a pair of saw horses, just ordered two more pairs to help speed this up! Cabinet guy missed/miscut a handful of pieces and I'm still waiting on them, so the Titans are on hold until those show up. Should be done with the two SHS enclosures by Friday. I've learned some valuable lessons on CAD/CNC design that have led to lots of wasted time during assembly sanding and cutting clearances for corners where the bracing meets, etc. If I were to do it again I would also program the CNC to drill all the holes to save even more time and add more precision.
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post #44 of 44 Old 02-19-2020, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundodger View Post
Love this thread. Do you have a full build thread somewhere too?

It looks like your HT-10s for surround duty are all going into columns. I would love to know your column dimensions as that is exactly what I'm planning (if I can spare the 8" deep column space vs. putting in in-walls). What is your overall room dimension?

Thanks!
This is my only build thread. Not as well organized as many, but it fits my scrambled approach

The outer dimensions on the side columns are 11" deep and 21.5" wide. The openings are slightly under 20"H x 16"W. The rear and front wides columns are different dimensions, simply to suit the design/layout of the room.

Attached are my initial design drawings from probably 3 years ago. I haven't looked at these in quite a while until your question came up on the room dimensions, but I'm surprised how close the end result is going to be to my initial vision!
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