Help ? Dvc isobarik sub wiring - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-07-2020, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Help ? Dvc isobarik sub wiring

Does any know how to wire two 4 dvc subs in a clamshell isobarik config out of phase ,iv got two duel 4ohm subs that im putting in to a ported clamshell isobarik config , an im not sure how to wired it a visual diagram would be helpful if anyone has one ,just to note im aiming for a parallel wiring config that end in a 4ohm load



sorry if i sound a tha noob



if you can help thanks
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-07-2020, 08:32 PM
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1: Put each 4R VC in each driver in series to make 2 x 8R drivers.
2: Connect drivers in opposite phase in parallel.


Test before bolting on the front driver with a very low frequency sine wave to make sure both are moving in the same direction at the same time, ie, both out of the box then both into the box.

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post #3 of 9 Old 01-08-2020, 03:21 PM
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John - Are you aware of the benefits and drawbacks of an isobaric design?


Before you commit to an isobaric configuration, you should be aware of the drawbacks, as they are quite significant. The only real benefit is the box size can be smaller (half the Vas). If that is what you are going for, then so be it. However, you don't gain any efficiency, and therefore, the dual driver configuration outputs the same as a single driver. Isobaric has no real benefits in my opinion.


http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...antages-if-any


^Read this thread for more info.
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-08-2020, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post
1: Put each 4R VC in each driver in series to make 2 x 8R drivers.
2: Connect drivers in opposite phase in parallel.


Test before bolting on the front driver with a very low frequency sine wave to make sure both are moving in the same direction at the same time, ie, both out of the box then both into the box.
do you have a visual diagram of how that goes ,iv got two duel 4 ohms subs that need to be wired to a single 4ohm load so i can power it with my crown 1502 in bridged mode to give the the full 1550watts
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-08-2020, 05:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewp29 View Post
John - Are you aware of the benefits and drawbacks of an isobaric design?


Before you commit to an isobaric configuration, you should be aware of the drawbacks, as they are quite significant. The only real benefit is the box size can be smaller (half the Vas). If that is what you are going for, then so be it. However, you don't gain any efficiency, and therefore, the dual driver configuration outputs the same as a single driver. Isobaric has no real benefits in my opinion.


http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...antages-if-any


^Read this thread for more info.
im going for a smaller box ,my ability to lift big boxs is limited my current design is an effective 3.765 cubicfeet with one 15in passive radiator tuned to 12.5hz

the outer dims are 49in high by 19.3in wide by 12.25in deep with inturnal dim at 46in by 16.3in by 9.25in deep
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-09-2020, 12:05 PM
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1.5 inch wall thickness? MDF or plywood? If you are planning MDF, you might consider plywood for the substantial weight savings. Double baffle 3/4" plywood, with 3/4" for the rest of the box would net you a little under 5 cubic feet while still retaining the outer dims. And it would weigh less than half of what an MDF box would weigh - probably more like 1/3. Much easier to move.



Just some things to consider - most people build extreme SPL boxes using drivers with very high Xmax out of 3/4" plywood and have no issues provided the internal bracing is properly designed. Though I feel a lot of designs go extreme overkill on bracing. Some sacrifice a large amount of internal volume for no real world gain. Bracing is important, but the law of diminishing returns applies in the same manner as increased wall thickness.



Back to the isobaric discussion though - You had asked initially about 2 open baffle 15s, and judging by the depth of your current design, it appears you have a depth limitation, not necessarily width and height?


You also mentioned a passive radiator (PR)? What are you doing with the PR? Are you thinking isobaric 15s, face to face, with a single 15 PR?


It would help immensely if you told us what your plan is for this box, and any applicable limitations. There are much more knowledgeable forum members here than myself that might be able to help you accomplish your ultimate goal with a little more information from you.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-13-2020, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john o'connell View Post
does any know how to wire two 4 dvc subs in a clamshell isobarik config out of phase ,iv got two duel 4ohm subs that im putting in to a ported clamshell isobarik config , an im not sure how to wired it a visual diagram would be helpful if anyone has one ,just to note im aiming for a parallel wiring config that end in a 4ohm load



sorry if i sound a tha noob



if you can help thanks
https://knowledge.sonicelectronix.co...g/#prettyPhoto

If you want them out of phase from each other, just swap the positive and negative (red and black) wires of the driver on the right side of the drawing.





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Last edited by Augerhandle; 01-13-2020 at 09:20 AM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-13-2020, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewp29 View Post
The only real benefit is the box size can be smaller (half the Vas).

And you don't get all of that benefit because the motor of the 2nd driver sticks way out.

I also agree that 1.5" thick is overkill, and wastes a lot of internal volume w/those dimensions.

You can make the panels just as stiff w/sufficient xbracing.

Noah
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post #9 of 9 Old 01-18-2020, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewp29 View Post
1.5 inch wall thickness? MDF or plywood? If you are planning MDF, you might consider plywood for the substantial weight savings. Double baffle 3/4" plywood, with 3/4" for the rest of the box would net you a little under 5 cubic feet while still retaining the outer dims. And it would weigh less than half of what an MDF box would weigh - probably more like 1/3. Much easier to move.



Just some things to consider - most people build extreme SPL boxes using drivers with very high Xmax out of 3/4" plywood and have no issues provided the internal bracing is properly designed. Though I feel a lot of designs go extreme overkill on bracing. Some sacrifice a large amount of internal volume for no real world gain. Bracing is important, but the law of diminishing returns applies in the same manner as increased wall thickness.



Back to the isobaric discussion though - You had asked initially about 2 open baffle 15s, and judging by the depth of your current design, it appears you have a depth limitation, not necessarily width and height?


You also mentioned a passive radiator (PR)? What are you doing with the PR? Are you thinking isobaric 15s, face to face, with a single 15 PR?


It would help immensely if you told us what your plan is for this box, and any applicable limitations. There are much more knowledgeable forum members here than myself that might be able to help you accomplish your ultimate goal with a little more information from you.
the wood im using for this build is 2 in. x 10 in. x 8 ft. #2 Prime or Better Ground Contact Pressure-Treated Lumber
Actual Product Length (ft.) 8 Actual Product Thickness (in.)1.5 Actual Product Width (in.) 9.25

and an double layer of 3/4 MDF Panel for the front an back with a flush cut for

the drive im using the router to cut down an around were the driver will go 1/2in

so the driver will sit on a 1in layer of mdf

my inturnal dims are 46in by 16.3in by 9.25in deep

iv also consided ditching the rad for a ported build, one of my designs is for a singal (not in isobarik) or double driver ( in isobarik)

with a port tuned to 17hz perposed port dims are 1in by 16.3in by 36in with a port wall at .25in thick which gives me 2.25in of space behind the driver
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